Estima Turbo

[jimo]

can anyone tell me how difficult it is to fit a replacement turbo to a 1993 2.2 td.

Got a few spanners but need pointing in the right direction, any help please.

Thanks Jimo.

[darryl]

can anyone tell me how difficult it is to fit a replacement turbo to a 1993 2.2 td.

Got a few spanners but need pointing in the right direction, any help please.

Thanks Jimo.

It's a faily easy job, some members say it's a engine out job or a garage only job.(*wrong*) i'm no mechanic but i did it about 4 hours. 10,12 & 14 mm quality open & ring spanners and the same in 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 sockets and drives

1. remove the underbody metal plate which covers the exhaust/turbo and the big plastic one as well (12mm)

2. release and tilt back driver/passenger seats and remove the carpets over engine cover

3. remove engine inspection covers

4. remove drivers seat (14mm x 2) at rear and wire that goes to the seat (passenger seat doesn't need to be removed)

4. remove metal side bracket and fuel flap release which bolts to it (14mm and 10mm)

5. remove plastic trim (3x screws) in order to unclip the driver side carpet

6. remove the driverside half of the engine cover (about 14 small 10 or 12mm bolts) just pull the carpet back a little they're all easy to get to.

7. look in into engine bay remove 2x bolts at the top of turbo this will also release a pipe bracket (this thin metal pipe which comes out of the turbo bends up, turns left goes along about 8 inches then bends right and heads towards the engine into a black hosepipe (disconect at this point) the metal section can be left connected to the turbo.

8. you may wish to get a bucket to catch the water , as turbo removal will empty the cooling system

9. it also would be advisable to drain engine oil as well, esspecially when fitting a new turbo (good practice) as it's usually lack of oil or lack of oil change that kills the turbo in the first place, change oil every 7000

10. there is a small metal pipe housing (engine side of turbo)that needs to be removed (2x 10mm nuts) also where it meets the black hose (this to needs to be separated 1x jubilee clip or spring joint) if it is a spring clip , you will need a pair of longnose or bent longnose pliers (best to have both). Try to keep the housing gasket in tact (if you havent got a new one).

Now to the underside of the vehicle. it's best to use wd40 on the following

11. remove the exhaust from the turbo (3x 14mm nuts) this section should be flexi pipe and can then be cable tied out of the way.

12. remove the large pipe housing (this has 3 metal pipes 1 quite thick) 12mm nuts, this housing can be removed and bent out of the way and held with a cbl/tie(you do not need to remove the pipes) this housing has a thin metal gasket, which cannot really be damaged as it's quite robust.

13. remove the big black pipe at the front end of the turbo(large jubilee or spring clip).

14. slacken of the thick black hosepipe jubilee/spring clips that goes between the turbo and sump, this hose section is about 3 inches long.

15. remove the 4 x (14mm or possibly bigger)nuts the hold the turbo to the engine 3 are quite easy , the 4th is fairly tight to get to(use a good quality ring spanner or angledbent ring) and must be a perfect fit. do not use a open spanner for these 4 as you cannot afford a slipped nut............The turbo should now come off

Refitting is the reverse procedure, i did in fact forget to put the section 14 hose back on before i refitted it, but you can still get it on with the turbo in place, just slide it fully towards the engine, it the drops down, then slide it back towards the turbo..

It sounds a hard job, but it's not

Good Luck. Darryl

[jimo]

can anyone tell me how difficult it is to fit a replacement turbo to a 1993 2.2 td.

Got a few spanners but need pointing in the right direction, any help please.

Thanks Jimo.

It's a faily easy job, some members say it's a engine out job or a garage only job.(*wrong*) i'm no mechanic but i did it about 4 hours. 10,12 & 14 mm quality open & ring spanners and the same in 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 sockets and drives

1. remove the underbody metal plate which covers the exhaust/turbo and the big plastic one as well (12mm)

2. release and tilt back driver/passenger seats and remove the carpets over engine cover

3. remove engine inspection covers

4. remove drivers seat (14mm x 2) at rear and wire that goes to the seat (passenger seat doesn't need to be removed)

4. remove metal side bracket and fuel flap release which bolts to it (14mm and 10mm)

5. remove plastic trim (3x screws) in order to unclip the driver side carpet

6. remove the driverside half of the engine cover (about 14 small 10 or 12mm bolts) just pull the carpet back a little they're all easy to get to.

7. look in into engine bay remove 2x bolts at the top of turbo this will also release a pipe bracket (this thin metal pipe which comes out of the turbo bends up, turns left goes along about 8 inches then bends right and heads towards the engine into a black hosepipe (disconect at this point) the metal section can be left connected to the turbo.

8. you may wish to get a bucket to catch the water , as turbo removal will empty the cooling system

9. it also would be advisable to drain engine oil as well, esspecially when fitting a new turbo (good practice) as it's usually lack of oil or lack of oil change that kills the turbo in the first place, change oil every 7000

10. there is a small metal pipe housing (engine side of turbo)that needs to be removed (2x 10mm nuts) also where it meets the black hose (this to needs to be separated 1x jubilee clip or spring joint) if it is a spring clip , you will need a pair of longnose or bent longnose pliers (best to have both). Try to keep the housing gasket in tact (if you havent got a new one).

Now to the underside of the vehicle. it's best to use wd40 on the following

11. remove the exhaust from the turbo (3x 14mm nuts) this section should be flexi pipe and can then be cable tied out of the way.

12. remove the large pipe housing (this has 3 metal pipes 1 quite thick) 12mm nuts, this housing can be removed and bent out of the way and held with a cbl/tie(you do not need to remove the pipes) this housing has a thin metal gasket, which cannot really be damaged as it's quite robust.

13. remove the big black pipe at the front end of the turbo(large jubilee or spring clip).

14. slacken of the thick black hosepipe jubilee/spring clips that goes between the turbo and sump, this hose section is about 3 inches long.

15. remove the 4 x (14mm or possibly bigger)nuts the hold the turbo to the engine 3 are quite easy , the 4th is fairly tight to get to(use a good quality ring spanner or angledbent ring) and must be a perfect fit. do not use a open spanner for these 4 as you cannot afford a slipped nut............The turbo should now come off

Refitting is the reverse procedure, i did in fact forget to put the section 14 hose back on before i refitted it, but you can still get it on with the turbo in place, just slide it fully towards the engine, it the drops down, then slide it back towards the turbo..

It sounds a hard job, but it's not

Good Luck. Darryl