Turn Your T-sport Into A Golf Gti And Type-r Beater For £50!

[T-Sport_Jay]

I know i know you're all saying B*****ks. Now i've had my T-Sport for over a year now and love it to bits and we all know hands on hearts (c'mon now!) that our beloved CTS is just that little bit slower than the type-R. We wish it wasn't but it is! No matter how we try and go around the subject. This is due to the Type-r being lighter, having 8bhp more and wider tyres for it to put its power down.

Now how frustrating is this, we wish, when we got asked "what car do you drive?" we can reply "Its exactly like honda's type-R but a little faster!" and since the cts isn't as popular or known about we sadly can't!

So obviously we have to turn to a little minor tinkering! But yet again this is very hard to do as the cts isn't very tuner friendly (Many a time i've had my TRC and VSC light come on). This is due to the cts having around 180 sensors all over it checking everything, the minute something goes slightly amiss.... BANG on come the lights, they just don't like being played with.

I had a full system exhaust put on mine with a cat by-pass. Mine performed not very good as there was a lack of backpressure and there is a sensor before and after the cat monitoring that. So cat went back in all fine. Tiny bit more poke but nothing i could use to take on a car with the reputation as a gti or typeR which the cts should be able to do without being left behind. So next step was a induction kit......mmmmm..... £250 typhoon kit.....nah thanks as that has a reputation to bring on our lights again so i settled for a K&N panel airfilter Which was £50 this where i'm heading people. Sorry this is going on about but u need to hear the full story sorry!

That went in....... slightly nippier but nothing like what i wanted. Now i'm in the Navy as an aircraft technician so tinkering around is what i do! ok mainly with helicopters but a car is similar if you break it all down well the engines are.....suck squeeze bang blow.

So i had an idea............ instead of letting our cts breathe through that tiny pipe from its air box why not give it more? Because at the minute its like u and me going jogging breathing through a straw...not fun and definately not efficiant. So i took away the bottom half of the airbox. massive space now. Used aluminium engine tape from our workshops on base (we use on aircraft) and stuck the K&N air filter to the top half creating a sort of half and half induction kit which is very easy to do and now you don't have a few random tubes lying around because the business end of the air box we are not touching. So now in effect the car has an area the whole size of the air filter instead of the small hole from the airbox to breathe with. And let me tell you i am now no longer worried if a type-r pulls up next to me at the lights as now its me going first even in the dry!!!

Had a race with a golf gti (The brand new one yes 200bhp) and i went ahead which p***ed him off no end which is where our cts has that huge SMILE factor as we go past these unexpecting drivers

My cts now feels how it should i believe and performs exellent. MPG hasn't changed i do alot of motorway miles so i was slightly worried this would change but it hasn't............. and lastly there is a lovely grumble kicking out anything past 5k.

so i urge you to have a think about doing this if you're serious in making your t-sport into the beast it should be.

Again enjoy and sorry its slightly a long one.

[St3ve]

Been saying this for a while, although you dont need to kill the bottom half of the airbox, just remove the restrictive feed pipe...

[DaveSR]

I thought you was selling something ;)

[Chyownster]

what one of those pro resistors ;)

[T128]

it was a very nice story to read and it has a happy ending too. :)

T-Sport_Jay if you are posting this on here i guess you have notice a big improvement on your cts any chance of some photo's how is done.

[TOY-SPORT]

Hey I'm new to this and have had my cts 7 weeks if you could take some piccies and post them would be appreciated..

Also does anyone know if there are any v-tec controllers available for the vvtl-i???

Just wondering!!!

[Bero]

Nice instal, Get some pics up Jay!

The thread got me thinking about the air flow through the standard intake and if there really would be that much of a restriction: -

Calculate liters of air required at 8000rpm,

(1.8 (engine size in Liters) / 2 (4 stroke engine, 1 cylinder uses 1 cylinder of air per two crank rotations) * 8000 (engine speed)) /60 (convert mins into secs) = 120Liters/sec

Which is a LOT, even if air left in the cylinder and other inefficencys are take into account it should still be > 100l/s!

Is there any filter in the standard intake pipe before the air box? Jay are as i understand it you now effectivly have two pannel filters? I'm just thinking about the friction of going through a small free flowing pipe and one big filter compared to going through two big filters. Is the sound much louder?

Bero

[T-Sport_Jay]

hey bero like the maths loving it.

I don't know about the pipe that leads into the airbox might have a filter in not sure but since i got rid of that the air is only flowing through 1 K&N panel air filter. I will try and get some pics up at some point.

The main reason i think it works well is the fact it is now creating something called a "venturi" been learning it through my aerodynamics course been doing through a Naval Aviation college. Also know as a "throttle" depending which side of the principle you are using.

Basically if u have a big opening which air is being sucked into then it squeezes into a smaller tude...... ie the tube going straight into your engine block after the airbox, than this air will speed up to keep the overall volume of air equal to that of the volume of air first entering the system. this creates more pressure and thus more of a vacuum which then in turn sucks more air through the filter into the engine. This is a very old principle and most modern jet engines use this principle in its various stages. Since they work well thought of trying to impliment it to my car engine lol and it works quite well.

Hope that clears up some points and yes there is a "slight grumble" but nothing loud at all. you won't notice a change in sound untill its past 5k

[bert.tsport]

k&n 57i ... £95 .... never had one warning light on dash board or any problems.

[DaveSR]

Is that a cold air feed or just a pipe?

It's a good idea what you have done however it would benifit more if you made the air cooler using some sort of feed.

I noticed the difference in my yaris driving in hot weather compared to the cold weather ..... so I guess if you reduced the air temperature you will get better gains

Anybody know of anything for the diesel?

[bert.tsport]

Is that a cold air feed or just a pipe?

It's a good idea what you have done however it would benifit more if you made the air cooler using some sort of feed.

I noticed the difference in my yaris driving in hot weather compared to the cold weather ..... so I guess if you reduced the air temperature you will get better gains

Anybody know of anything for the diesel?

there is a flexi pipe that came with the kit, it runs from under the front end, up infront of the engine and ends up behind the Battery. it scoops air from under the car and blows onto the air filter. you cant see it on the pic though.

im sure they do this kit for the d4d too.

[T128]

induction kit is good but T-Sport_Jay's idea seen's to be much better with most of the airbox intact it will keep the hot air out and cost friendly too cant wait to see what this clever person has done.

[cmarshall]

Get it up santa pod and prove your theory!!!!

[nrgizerbunny]

there are advantages and disadvantages to both types of induction.

if you keep the OE system and replace the filter, you've got good cold air coming in and a bit of ram pressure but the pipe is constrictive.

if you use the K and N induction kit, you've got two problems, the first being you accelerate the flow through the intake but then decellerate it when it gets to the cone, so you lose the ram pressure. Other problem is the air temperature will be hotter than the OE system.

Personally, not having tried the K and N kit I would be more tempted to keep the OE system and just use bigger bore pipe and possibly less bends in the pipe.

My 2Pworth

[nrgizerbunny]

Basically if u have a big opening which air is being sucked into then it squeezes into a smaller tude...... ie the tube going straight into your engine block after the airbox, than this air will speed up to keep the overall volume of air equal to that of the volume of air first entering the system. this creates more pressure and thus more of a vacuum which then in turn sucks more air through the filter into the engine. This is a very old principle and most modern jet engines use this principle in its various stages. Since they work well thought of trying to impliment it to my car engine lol and it works quite well.

Hope that clears up some points and yes there is a "slight grumble" but nothing loud at all. you won't notice a change in sound untill its past 5k

good attempt but unfortunately wrong!! I used to work on EJ200 engines at rolls royce so i shall try and explain the theory as easy as possible.

Your idea of a venturi is kind of correct.

A venturi nozzle/diffuser is basically a smaller section in the pipe (called the throat), and you are correct in that the smaller the area the faster the flow velocity.

Q= density x area x flow speed

keeping Q constant, you have to increase speed if you reduce area.

the above picture shows the flow velocity peaking at the constriction.

However at the other end of the venturi, the pressure does not increase, you actually get less pressure than you did to start off with due to mixing losses and skin friction. Sure you'll come on to that in your module.

Other thing is you said jet engines use this principle! Well your kind of correct, what they do is they accelerate the flow to mach 1 at the throat, this is called choking, then when flow goes supersonic, a divergent nozzle accelerates the flow still further. So you get more power and also a pressure thrust term.

hope that helps, i have bored people I know, but I wanted to make sure that nobody failed their exams! :D

[Cablechap]

Basically if u have a big opening which air is being sucked into then it squeezes into a smaller tude...... ie the tube going straight into your engine block after the airbox, than this air will speed up to keep the overall volume of air equal to that of the volume of air first entering the system. this creates more pressure and thus more of a vacuum which then in turn sucks more air through the filter into the engine. This is a very old principle and most modern jet engines use this principle in its various stages. Since they work well thought of trying to impliment it to my car engine lol and it works quite well.

Hope that clears up some points and yes there is a "slight grumble" but nothing loud at all. you won't notice a change in sound untill its past 5k

good attempt but unfortunately wrong!! I used to work on EJ200 engines at rolls royce so i shall try and explain the theory as easy as possible.

Your idea of a venturi is kind of correct.

A venturi nozzle/diffuser is basically a smaller section in the pipe (called the throat), and you are correct in that the smaller the area the faster the flow velocity.

Q= density x area x flow speed

keeping Q constant, you have to increase speed if you reduce area.

the above picture shows the flow velocity peaking at the constriction.

However at the other end of the venturi, the pressure does not increase, you actually get less pressure than you did to start off with due to mixing losses and skin friction. Sure you'll come on to that in your module.

Other thing is you said jet engines use this principle! Well your kind of correct, what they do is they accelerate the flow to mach 1 at the throat, this is called choking, then when flow goes supersonic, a divergent nozzle accelerates the flow still further. So you get more power and also a pressure thrust term.

hope that helps, i have bored people I know, but I wanted to make sure that nobody failed their exams! :D

Hello for the first time.

Just a thought,

I've replaced the standard Denso airfilter with a TRD 17801-ZE200 and occasional use the vacuum cleaner on it when cleaning out the car interior. Does'nt improve the performance I guess, but does keep it closer to that of a new one. Sometimes use an airline on it too.

PS: I've had Thurder Grey 5dr T-Sport since Sept 03, and in addition to the airfilter it's got the TTE front skirt and facelifted side skirts, plus TTE lowering springs. Just had the 30K service and it cost only £88.

Looking to sell in August for those interested. Like the performance when I'm in it alone, but there is just not enough torque when loaded up with the family.

Was that a screen grab from Fluent CFD?

Cablechap

[martenj76]

k&n 57i ... £95 .... never had one warning light on dash board or any problems.

I'm planning to buy one of those 57i-kits. So you can recommend it? Did you feel any performancegains?

Tried the mod that topic-starter did but i never got my filter to really get stuck to the top of my filterbox so i think i'll go for a 57i-kit instead, safer.

[bert.tsport]

k&n 57i ... £95 .... never had one warning light on dash board or any problems.

I'm planning to buy one of those 57i-kits. So you can recommend it? Did you feel any performancegains?

Tried the mod that topic-starter did but i never got my filter to really get stuck to the top of my filterbox so i think i'll go for a 57i-kit instead, safer.

i would definately recomend it

its a good value for money mod... sounds really nice , a little extra performance too :D