Uk Spec Mr2 N/a Rev2 Engine Mods Help!

[Starlet_SR_Daz]

Just brought myself a UK Spec MR2 N/A Rev2 am wondering what mods i could put on it next to up the power abit more would be a big help if you could put prices and sites to where i cud buy these parts too... findin it hard to find engine mods to the n/a mr2.

Engine mods on my mr2 upto yet :

Remus Exhaust System And Stainless De-Cat Pipe

K&N Induction Kit

Any1 got any next mod ideas for me plz n wot bhp should they add if u know roughly...

sorry for bein such a pain hehe, cheers ~ Daz.

[gump2000]

Just brought myself a UK Spec MR2 N/A Rev2 am wondering what mods i could put on it next to up the power abit more would be a big help if you could put prices and sites to where i cud buy these parts too... findin it hard to find engine mods to the n/a mr2.

Engine mods on my mr2 upto yet :

Remus Exhaust System And Stainless De-Cat Pipe

K&N Induction Kit

Any1 got any next mod ideas for me plz n wot bhp should they add if u know roughly...

sorry for bein such a pain hehe, cheers ~ Daz.

Hiya mate. if you wanted to go for big power should have bought a turbo. as they say you want a fast car, start with a fast car. if you want to modify it then first thing i would do is put a lightened and balanced crank in it. this is the one thing that will stop you dead if you dont do it and seriously tweak it the engine.

[scottish_mr2]

Just brought myself a UK Spec MR2 N/A Rev2 am wondering what mods i could put on it next to up the power abit more would be a big help if you could put prices and sites to where i cud buy these parts too... findin it hard to find engine mods to the n/a mr2.

Engine mods on my mr2 upto yet :

Remus Exhaust System And Stainless De-Cat Pipe

K&N Induction Kit

Any1 got any next mod ideas for me plz n wot bhp should they add if u know roughly...

sorry for bein such a pain hehe, cheers ~ Daz.

Hiya mate. if you wanted to go for big power should have bought a turbo. as they say you want a fast car, start with a fast car. if you want to modify it then first thing i would do is put a lightened and balanced crank in it. this is the one thing that will stop you dead if you dont do it and seriously tweak it the engine.

it doesn't say he wants big power? - but i agree, if you want big power then a tubby is the way to go.. if you want to mod an n/a then there are probably more options available to you than you know.. you just need to know where to look..

Most people know that the best initial steps to get extra ponies out their 3SGE is to sort out the intake, exhaust and decat.. finding information on the next steps are a little more difficult as hardly anyone goes much past this point.. with this in mind i've been scratching round for information from a lot of boards/manuals and thought i'd share what i've found out – this is not to say I’m an authority on this subject – I’m not – I just thought it may be beneficial to others and may even save you some time searching...

MANIFOLD / HEADER:

The next logical upgrade to the 3SGE in my mind - is to change the manifold. The revision of your car will dictate what manifold will be applicable for you. For reference at this point it might be worth mentioning that the stock rev1/2 manifolds are 4-2-1 and the stock rev 3+ manifolds are 4-1. The main differences between a 4-2-1 manifold and the 4-1 manifold is that the 4-2-1 design is ideally set up to maximise torque (low down grunt) where the 4-1 design helps aid flow higher up i.e. increasing top end speed and Bhp (to an extent).

I have only found 2 main companies who make manifold for the 3SGE:

Revision 1 and 2 cars:

Fujitsubo Super Ex header – this used to be available in 2 flavours the BASIC version and the final polished version. The difference between the 2 is that the BASIC is cheaper because it does not go through the final polishing stage. The design is exactly the same. The design is the same as stock i.e. 4-2-1 but it is 4kg lighter and should give some good gains due to improved flow. Fujitsubo measured this on a stock car and got circa 6bhp. Expect to pay around £570 to your door (imported from Japan – see www.mtte.com or www.takakaira.co.jp )

Revision 3+ cars:

Tanabe Medalion – this is a 4-1 design. Very little information is available about this manifold. The cost circa £550 brand new and can be bought from www.mtte.com or www.takakaira.co.jp They occasionally come up second hand. If you are buying a second hand one, please ensure they provide you with the B-pipe as well as this is extremely expensive to buy on its own or to get one custom made. They occasionally turn up on imported cars. You can expect similar gains and benefits as the Fujitsubo item above.

There are other manufacturers i.e. OBX and Team XS – but these both require varying amounts of custom work to make them fit. Pheonix Power also make a manifold for rev3+ cars but this is eye wateringly expensive!

CAMS / VERNIER PULLEYS:

Cams would be the next thing you’d want to concentrate on in my opinion. I’ve searched flowing/porting the 3SGE head and have found that Toyota made the head on the 3SGE flow extremely well and in some cases – performance has actually suffered after having head work carried out.

Stock cams:

Revision 1/2 3SGE:

In: 244deg, 8.5mm lift (timing 7/57)

Ex: 244deg, 8.5mm lift (timing 57/7)

Revision 3+ 3SGE:

In: 252deg, 9.8mm lift (timing 7/65)

Ex: 240deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 53/7)

As you can see, for rev3+ cars – Toyota switched to a staggered set up. If you have a revision 1 or 2 car then you would actually benefit from installing rev3 stock items! A cheap upgrade route to go if money is at a premium!

If you want to go for a big name company then plenty of companies cater for this as the 3SGE cams can be used in a 3SGTE and vice versa. The stock 3SGE cams are also more aggressively profiled than the 3SGTE items – this is why some owners in the US have swapped out their stock cams for stock 3SGE cams.

An example of aftermarket cams are:

Piper Cams (fast road):

In: 260deg, 9.37mm lift

Ex: 260deg, 9.32mm lift

With this setup you should expect circa 10bhp and they cost £450. If you have a revision 1or 2 car then you will need to have a shim under bucked conversion carried out if you intend to fit high lift cams as these engines have a habit of spitting out shims at high revs. The revision 3+ cars came with shim under bucket as standard.

Vernier pulley’s are also worth considering at this point as not only will they be lighter than stock – they will also allow fine tuning of timing to ensure you are getting the most from your new set up.

AIR / FUEL MANAGEMENT:

At this stage it really would be worthwhile sorting the air, fuel and ignition timing of your car. This ultimately means upgrading your cars ECU (either piggyback or standalone) to enable you to enjoy the full potential/state of tune of your car. Again this is another area where there are several big name companies that can provide a solution. The one I would probably recommend and the one I will go for if/when I get this far will be a Dastek Unichip. Primarily because they are fairly local and the Unichip is mapped for air, fuel and ignition. Some aftermarket piggyback ECU’s only cater for air and fuel mapping.

Piggyback ECU options are:

Dastek Unichip

Apexi SAFC / NEO etc

Greddy Emanage and Emanage Ultimate

Prices vary and these will also require mapping on a rolling road.

I hope this has been useful/interesting/informative to people! if you've got this far - congratulations - and apologies for it being a little like war and peace! Embarassed Wink Laughing Razz

Here's a couple of piccies of my Fujitsubo Super Ex header i received yesterday from Japan:

gaskets and bits and bobs: