Rear Brake Noise.

[oddbod]

Hi. Has anyone ever experienced a rubbing noise from the rear brakes whilst corning in their TS?

We bought our TS privately three weeks ago and it was running fine. Then we had it serviced at the local Toyota dealer and the brakes have been playing up ever since. When I picked it up they told me my front discs were badly corroded, but they could fix them for £280. The discs and pads looked fine from the outside, but later inspection showed the inner pads and faces were badly worn. The dealer had also adjusted the handbrake so it was fully on by one or two clicks :!Removed!: I then discovered with the windows down you could hear a grinding noise coming from the rear when cornering.

I fitted new EBC discs and pads on the front myself last weekend. I've also slackened off the handbrake at the lever so I've now got five clicks. Unfortunately this hasn't cured the noise. I'm wondering if the handbrake shoes have been forced out so far that the gap has now been taken up by the self adjusters. I've had the rear wheels off a couple of times now and there is nothing binding or visibly wrong with the rear discs or pads. The haynes manual doesn't cover the TS so I have no info on the rear discs or handbrake adjustment. It's now loud enough to hear inside the car, but only on corners! Could it be the handbrake drum causing the problem? Oddbod.

[Woody27]

I aint read it all but it's usually the disc guards on the inside that rub (like a metal dish that runs around behind the disc). I Know a lot of people have had this problem! Usually involves angle grinding them back or hitting them back with a hammer! Only problem is it may knock tracking out if you're not careful with that hammer!

I'm sure someone who had and solved this problem will be along soon, usualy in the form of clarky

[oddbod]

I aint read it all but it's usually the disc guards on the inside that rub (like a metal dish that runs around behind the disc). I Know a lot of people have had this problem! Usually involves angle grinding them back or hitting them back with a hammer! Only problem is it may knock tracking out if you're not careful with that hammer!

I'm sure someone who had and solved this problem will be along soon, usualy in the form of clarky

Woody27, Thanks for being the only reply to my post. I stripped the rear brakes down completely yesterday. Seems the inside edge where the handbrake drum is machined has been rubbing on the handbrake shoe backplate (see pics). Not sure why this has happened. It must be a close fit normally and cornering adds enough load to close the gap. I've cleaned out all the dust and lightly tapped the edge of the backplate to provide some clearance. There's no detectable play in the bearings. I just hope Ive cured the noise. I must admit that the whole rear stub axle looks pretty weedy! Oddbod.

[morpheus33]

Warning! be very very carefull with stripping the rear drum brakes on the yaris TS!

I recently replaced all the pads on my car and took off the rear disk/drum combo for inspection.

Now the haynes manual tells you to use the two bolt threads to remove the rear drums.

I found this method to pitch over the drum too far ( I was being carefull and doing each bolt a little at a time)which picked up the brake shoes draging the whole assembly back. (yes I did have the handbrake off)

I found that in removing the drums in this way actually broke the double spring metal clip that held togther the two brakes shoes at the top of the drum brake assembly, giving the proper tension.

To my horror I found out this little metal item is only held together onto the back plate because at the factory they spread the end of what looks like a locating nut with a hammer and chisel to hold this item on.

It is not welded as part of the back plate only pressed on and hammered over. !!!!!

It's a shocking piece of design which means, even if you are only slightly over sealous with removing the disks/drums then you can cause permenant damage to the handbrake assembly very easily

I have now got to go and buy a whole new back plate as I just dont trust the metal clip to stay on at all, thus no handbrake operation if this happens.

I am not impressed with Toyota design in this area, cost saving is dangerous when it comes to brakes.!!!!

[morpheus33]

here's a picture. See the metal braket in the middle of the picture that broke off.

I put it back on but I'm not confident about it staying there at all.

handbrake does not feel right at all now, and I only wanted to do my brakes cheaply!

The back plate will cost me 167.00 quid. ouch! expensive mistake! :censor:

sorry here

[Yaris SR Kid]

My god i was thinking about checking my rear drums but not after this!

and it was suprisingly easy to do my front pads!

Sorry to hear bad news guys!

[morpheus33]

Best to let a Toyota dealer repair your back drum brakes.

If they break it they can fix it also, it' not your problem

And yes the front brake pads were a doddle to do.

lead me into a false sense of security with the rear ones I suppose!

[clarky]

Sorry hadnt noticed this one ... been away...

As Woody suggested I had the same issue about a year ago. All was fine until I replaced the original back discs with grooved 3G ones - grinding sounds on anything but straight driving.

Tried everything I could, then tried MrT who didn't have a clue. Eventually went to see Earpl who diagnosed the problem (using toothpaste ... dont ask) as being the inner dirt shield rubbing on the inner edge of the rear disc/hub.

What we reckoned had happened was that the original disc and handbrake shoes had slowly grooved away into the disc and allowed the shoes to move out slightly. When the new disc went on it was fine in a straight line but the groove wasnt there and rubbed when cornerning.

We solved it by very gently rubbing an angle grinder round the inner edge of the new disc - less than a mm of metal ... just enough to stop the rubbing. Been absolutely fine since.

As regards removing the disc/hub ... we just used a couple of bolts and took it steady ... was a filthy day and ended up soaking ... but isnt it always...

[oddbod]

Morpheus33,

It's the first time I've visited the site this year, but I noticed there were a few more replies to my thread. Having just read your reply I have to say I almost did the same thing when I removed the disk/drums to inspected the noise I was experiencing at the start of this thread. However, from past experience on other cars with just rear drums, the shoes always seem to get caught, even with the handbrake off. It's mainly due to a lip caused by wear in the drums. Unfortunately it's a bit late, but it's always best to slacken off the auto adjuster at the lower end of the shoe assembly as well as having the handbrake off. You should be able to see a notched wheel mechanism through a small hole in the drum before you attempt to remove it. The hole is normally blanked with a small rubber plug. The idea is to turn the notched wheel using a screwdriver through the hole. You have to wind it back out after everythings been replaced to move the shoes back out close to the drum, but not enough to lock the wheels with the handbrak off. In normal use handbrake wear is adjusted by this wheel automatically.

I have to agree with you that the quality of the rear brakes is very flimsy and cheap looking on the TS.

Oddbod.

Warning! be very very carefull with stripping the rear drum brakes on the yaris TS!

I recently replaced all the pads on my car and took off the rear disk/drum combo for inspection.

Now the haynes manual tells you to use the two bolt threads to remove the rear drums.

I found this method to pitch over the drum too far ( I was being carefull and doing each bolt a little at a time)which picked up the brake shoes draging the whole assembly back. (yes I did have the handbrake off)

I found that in removing the drums in this way actually broke the double spring metal clip that held togther the two brakes shoes at the top of the drum brake assembly, giving the proper tension.

To my horror I found out this little metal item is only held together onto the back plate because at the factory they spread the end of what looks like a locating nut with a hammer and chisel to hold this item on.

It is not welded as part of the back plate only pressed on and hammered over. !!!!!

It's a shocking piece of design which means, even if you are only slightly over sealous with removing the disks/drums then you can cause permenant damage to the handbrake assembly very easily

I have now got to go and buy a whole new back plate as I just dont trust the metal clip to stay on at all, thus no handbrake operation if this happens.

I am not impressed with Toyota design in this area, cost saving is dangerous when it comes to brakes.!!!!

[morpheus33]

Oddbod,

Yep I realised my mistake pretty soon after geting the drum brake hub off the car, but it was too late by then!

Obviously the rear shoes must have caught on the lip, as I did not back off the adjuster enough.

It's a bit annoying that the rear back plate is so easily damaged, in this way.

It will cost me £167.00 for the new rear back plate, flimsy though it is.

Although I will try and take the rear backplate completly off and do a spot of clever tac welding to thebspring retainer so hopefully it won't cost me anything.

Just means having another go at the rear brakes again this weekend.

I did notice that the rear disk guards were rubbing in exaclty the way as you describe, so I think is common to all TS.

I don't like the disk guards as they seem to cause more trouble than they solve.

[Red Yaris 54]

Warning! be very very carefull with stripping the rear drum brakes on the yaris TS!

I recently replaced all the pads on my car and took off the rear disk/drum combo for inspection.

Now the haynes manual tells you to use the two bolt threads to remove the rear drums.

I found this method to pitch over the drum too far

MORPHEUS................The Haynes manual does not cover the T Sport model....................that is why you had the problems in removing your rear disc/drum combo.

As has been said ...........if you are at all unsure about what you are doing with braking systems ....leave it to the professionals