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Gen 4 Pop-up Headlights Question


mujaddid
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Hi all,

Does anyone know where exactly the "headlight relay" is located on the GEN4 GT 3SGE?

My drivers side headlight does not pop up-down, headlight itself is fine.

Heard that cleaning out the contacts may resolve problem, motor works as I tried removing and connecting it to O/S terminal, motor works.......

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I`ve just had a look in my Chilton manual. There doesn`t appear to be a relay for the headlamp motors. :unsure: Provided the `RTR' 30A and the headlight 15A fuses are OK i`d be looking at the connectors to the motor concerned. Use a multimeter or test lamp to check for voltage here. if you`ve got voltage then look for a bad earth. The earths run off the headlight switch, Black & White wire. :thumbsup:

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Thanks, thought as much as the MR2s have this realy AKA "the blue box", needed the confirmation.

The wiring around the plug for the motor does seem slighly corroded.

TIA

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I CLeaned the contacts with WD40, connected and removed several times but still nothing.

Guess I need to ensure that current is flowing through the wires as all else seems fine?

TIA

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I`ve just done a search for you. The blue box you mentioned rang bells. Nothing conclusive but apparently their is a blue box on the Celicas. Not 100% sure of the location though. On mine their is a blue box above the glovebox attached to the dash cross brace. Apparently on MR2`s it`s behind the headlamps. Might be worth having a peek behind the dash.

Hope this helps. :thumbsup:

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daktari,

Many Thanks, I'll have a closer look today.

Hopefully car should get through the MOT this weekend, only outstanding issue I have is the revs not auo dropping to idle after warm up (sticking idle)

I've had to adjust the air screw to almost full clockwise position so that engine runs around 900K idle.

Ive cleaned out throttle body, air pipe, air housing element.

Can't really guage the problem until MOT is completed and I take it for a spin as it has been sat around in a garage for over 1 year with Battery disconnected.

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daktari,

Many Thanks, I'll have a closer look today.

Hopefully car should get through the MOT this weekend, only outstanding issue I have is the revs not auo dropping to idle after warm up (sticking idle)

I've had to adjust the air screw to almost full clockwise position so that engine runs around 900K idle.

Ive cleaned out throttle body, air pipe, air housing element.

Can't really guage the problem until MOT is completed and I take it for a spin as it has been sat around in a garage for over 1 year with battery disconnected.

Hopefully it`ll be something simple like gummed up or stale petrol. A good thrash will probably sort it.... Fingers crossed. :thumbsup:

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Lets hope so, as the docs all seem to indicate lost memory presets after prolonged Battery disconnections.

(40 keystarts)!!!!

Eitherway i'll keep you posted.

TIA

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Hi

Took the car for a spin to bournmouth and biy has it improved, I recall even with my old MR2 and Corrolla GT - they dont like to be left stood for too long.

Anyhow, car got through MOT with only minor bulb issues, hunting probs all sorted, CV joint and timing belt will be changed this week and a bit of TLC all round...............

What a plesure it is too drive...............................

Headlight issue is all that stands in my way.....arrrrrrrrgh.

:toast:

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Hi

Took the car for a spin to bournmouth and biy has it improved, I recall even with my old MR2 and Corrolla GT - they dont like to be left stood for too long.

Anyhow, car got through MOT with only minor bulb issues, hunting probs all sorted, CV joint and timing belt will be changed this week and a bit of TLC all round...............

What a plesure it is too drive...............................

Headlight issue is all that stands in my way.....arrrrrrrrgh.

:toast:

Good news. Well done. :thumbsup: HAve you tried thumping the headlight. :unsure::lol:

well it works with my comp........................................ usually. ;) .

................................................u

......................................................t

..........................................................e

..............................................................r :hammer:

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Daktari,

Just spent last few days before I start new job on Monday getting the car sorted, door cards wereloose, bulbs blown in dash etc.....

Just noticed a small leak coming from one of the pipes (x2 from auto trans to radiator), seem to be rubber pipes.

Any idea if these can be picked up from local stores?

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Daktari,

Just spent last few days before I start new job on Monday getting the car sorted, door cards wereloose, bulbs blown in dash etc.....

Just noticed a small leak coming from one of the pipes (x2 from auto trans to radiator), seem to be rubber pipes.

Any idea if these can be picked up from local stores?

Probably not. But if you`ve got someone local who does hydraulic pipes it might be cheaper than buying from Toyota. I had one made up for my Merc. - Same pipe funnily enough - for £40. Mercedes wanted nearly double that. :thumbsup:

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I'ts not the metal hydo pipes but rather the cloth/flexi type with clips either end.

Im going to pop down the local shop to C if they have any....

Onto a more serious note, can you recommend Oil type and transmission type fluid, there are so many.....

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I'ts not the metal hydo pipes but rather the cloth/flexi type with clips either end.

Im going to pop down the local shop to C if they have any....

Onto a more serious note, can you recommend Oil type and transmission type fluid, there are so many.....

A good quality 10w30 or 10w40 will suffice. Peoples opinions vary but for non turbo applications you can do a lot worse than Castrol Magnatex 10w40. It`s a semi synth and TBH i`ve not read anything bad about it anywhere. You need to change it every 3,000 - 4,000 miles and always use a genuine Toyota filter.

Transmision fluid needs to be minimum Dexron 11 but preferably Dexron 111. I get mine from a motor factors for about 8 quid for 5 litres. or Halfords stock most good makes at reasonable prices. You `ll need just over 3 litres for the gearbox, and .75 litres for the differential. But best to get 5 litres a/ it`s cheaper b/ you can use it for topping up power steering & transmision. The auto trans/ Diff needs a fluid change every 30,000 miles.

BTW it was the flexi pipe i was on about. Looks a bit like these? post-12498-1163180616_thumb.jpg :thumbsup:

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Daktari,

Pipes all changed and secured, thanks for the advice.

One question though, the milage for auto/gbox change sounds about right, but engine oil every 3-4K?

Isn't this based on performance driving, as my assumption is 6K then 10K with service?

TIA

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You`re quite right of course. Toyota actually recomend 6K or 6 mths whichever is sooner, for oil and filter. And with modern oils that should be fine. But there are a few variations where shortened intervals may be beneficial. As you say performance driving is one. Also stop start /town driving, is another. I prefer to err on the side of caution. Oil's relatively cheap, certainly a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild. I tend to look on it as insurance for my engine.

I guess i`m just paranoid about oil :rolleyes: Permanently got visions of my turbo grinding to a halt. :eek:

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On mine their is a blue box above the glovebox attached to the dash cross brace.

If it's the same Blue Box as in Asha's car ( same place ) then that one is for the automatic Steering wheel tilt. :thumbsup:

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But my GT does not have auto steering tilt, its a manual lever.

Daktari,

You mentioned "You `ll need just over 3 litres for the gearbox, and .75 litres for the differential"

The auto gearbox I understand but the differential? im kinda lost on that one???

TIA

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I think Dak was thinking about his 4WD system ;) your diff will be in the bottom of your box :)

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I think Dak was thinking about his 4WD system ;) your diff will be in the bottom of your box :)

Erm no actually. ;) The auto trans on 86 - 89 cars does not share its fluid with the diff. (Manuals do) The diff must be checked and filled seperately. The filler for the diff is about half way up at the rear of the diff. Fill the dif until the level reaches the bottom of the filler plug. The drain plug for the diff is the rearmost bottom one almost in line with the driveshafts. Hope that clarifies it for you. And yes it does take ATF as opposed to gearbox oil :thumbsup:

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Just to finish the subject off...............

10W30/40 for engine oil

Dextron II/III for transmission and Power steering

Brake fluid for braking system.

Silly me, its been several years since I was involved in basic maintenance LOL

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Just to finish the subject off...............

10W30/40 for engine oil

Dextron II/III for transmission and Power steering

Brake fluid for braking system.

Silly me, its been several years since I was involved in basic maintenance LOL

Yep. That lot should do it. :thumbsup:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Daktari,

When you get the chance could you post me a pic or point me to any online diagram of the differential on these Auto Gen 4 GT models?

Also still no luck with the pop-up headlights, otherwise cars running sweet.

TIA

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