Basic Mods For A Std Turbo?

[Billy C]

Just wanna know the first steps of setting up an MR2 turbo.

Have read quite a few things and want to know how safe it is.

Firstly, i will need a FCD which eliminate the overboost. Correct?

Then I will need a Boost controller of some sort. Now I have read and heard a bit on the 'Grainger Valve' is this a TM name for a Bleed valve of a certain company? How good are these and are they safer? Can't afford a electronic b/c atm+setup :(

Obviously the basics will be done in terms of a decent airfilter and Exhaust. Brands please of the best available/reasonable prices...please recommend

Just a few basics please as i'm not familar with the products on the MR2's. A few posts i've seen have slated certain brands etc ie: HKS airfilter. So i want to be certain.

Thanks for getting me started

[Billy C]

Would it be better in the import page?

If so Please move.

Thanks

Will

[dawesy]

firstly bleed valves are not that good and can give unreliable boost so if pos save up and get an elctronic boost controler its a lot safer.

i have herd very good reports on the mongoose exhaust for the mr2 and the blitz air cleaner have heard that the foam from the hks mushroom type filter can block turbos but have no idea if there is any truth behind this.

you will need an FCD if you intend to raise the boost much above stock also get a good boost guage to monitor the new levels.

obviously the top brands HKS Blitz etc are going to give the best performance but it all depends on budget although some times its better to save and get the best than buy a cheaper product and end up getting the better one later on

hope this helps a bit

[screechmr2]

blitz filters stop pretty much no dirt, they're stainless steel so have nothing to actually stop the dirt. hks ones don't filter very well either and the foam seems to go brittle. personally i run a k&n as it's got good filtration wise and can be cleaned so will last longer than the engine. apexi is rated as the best for filtration.

an fcd doesn't eleminate overboost, it eleminates fuel cut so that you can set the boost higher without the engine cutting power.

grainger valves are meant to be very good and hold boost more accurately than the bleed valve, people say they are less laggy but that's pure crap, mine boosts instantly as the hosing is as short as it can possibly be.

boost gauge is essential if you up the boost, i didn't fit one until i'd had the bleed valve on for 2 months. thought my car was !Removed! quick, found out why after fitting the gauge, it was boosting 25psi on a standard rev 1 turbo.

exhaust wise the blitz nur spec is the best you can possibly buy, but costs over £500. mongoose is very good as well and costs £325 plus vat from fensport.

[screechmr2]

forgot to add, on rev 1-2 people suggest to run 15psi boost because the turbo can't boost very high at high rpm (i run 17 which is perfectly safe as it's inefficiency lowers the boost above 5k anyway)

rev 3 onwards run 18psi for best performance

[Billy C]

Thanks for the info guys.

Will be getting a Rev2 so i was thinking of 14.5 - 15 psi.

Also will i be able to adjust the boost up and down via the grainger valve ( max being 14.5) cos I've decided to let my GF drive it and was thinking of tuning it right down when shes at the wheel :D

I am also in Essex and can't locate any decent tuners thats reasonable. TDI are quite expensive. Is it worth attempting it myself? or just use a Ford tuner to deal with the fitting and set up? they are a tad cheaper and will have decent knowledge of boost and fueling set ups. Is it worth it or does anyone know anyone else thats reasonable?

Cheers

[screechmr2]

fitting a grainger valve is a simple diy job and requires no fueling adjustments. trouble with winding the boost down each time the g/f drives it is then you have to keep adjusting it back and getting it running the right boost isn't easy and it won't be easy to adjust it when the engine is hot as it sits right next to the turbo and !Removed! burns your hands (i know this as i had to refit my bleed valve when the silicon hose blew apart whilst going to a car meet). it takes absolutely hours for the engine to cool down as well.

it really isn't worth paying someone else to fit the valve, takes 30 mins max to fit.

air filter fit yourself as well, again very easy

only the exhaust is the part i'd get someone else to do as they can be a !Removed! to get off.

[Bibbs]

sorry for the slow pickup, just became a member :D

Upping the boost is easy ..

First make sure your plugs, HT leads and dizzy cap/rotor and in good knick .. if there is any problem it'll only be magnified by a boost hike.

Next plumb in an aftermarket boost guage and see what boost you are running.

Then you need an FCD. Don't go for a diode type that removes fuel cut, get one that raises just raises it.

Then plumb in the G-valve, block the TVIS pipe and slowly wind in the boost (checking on the guage).

14psi is good on stock .. 17psi if you have WI.

I've got my FCD set to block @ 12 psi and release again at 19 psi (so from 12 -> 19 psi the ecu only sees 12). And am running 14 (and a bit) psi .. will up it a bit when I plumb the WI in.

Cause of the location of the pipes it took me about 3 hours to do.

Filters? Go for Apexi .. tests have been done on supras and these are the best for airflow and filtration .. I used to have an HKS and had a fine layer of dust in the intake when I replaced it.

Exhaust? Speak to Hayward & Scott, who are the daddies of exhausts - they make them to your spec and are based in Essex.

The exhaust it the only thing I'd not suggest you do yourself. And get it de-catted at the same time ..

HTH,

B

[screechmr2]

3 hours to plumb what in?

the vsv (not tvis, tvis is a variable induction system on n/as, vsv is the boost controller) and bleed valve or grainger valve should be done in a maximum of an hour, prob even 30 mins.

when you remove the original air filter do the grainger valve and vsv before fitting the new air filter. remove the pipe right up to the turbo and acess to the fit the grainger valve and vsv is a lot easier. replace the rubber hoses with 5 or 6mm silicon hoses because it's easier to cut the rubber hoses off with a stanley knife than reusing them. when refitting the new hoses spray a little wd40 in them and they slide on very easily then.

the fcd if it's the fensport one will only take about 30 mins to an hour aswell (and i'm useless at electrics).

[Bibbs]

yeah sorry the VSV .. the hoses I got were 20 bar jobbies and I was pulling then on "dry" .. took a load of swearing and bloodied fingers ..

My fcd was a 10 min job .. got a mate who's good with solder :D

[Billy C]

:( I'm so crap with car things, its gonna cost me a fortune :(

Screech, Bibbs - Can you fit it all for me :D

Any ways the car is coming with an aftermarket exhaust, so i will only need a Apexi filter ( yep have decided cos i've only heard good things about them) Basic mods first.

How much would the increase be in bhp with just these 2 mods??? Not expecting much but have seen some claim over 10 - 15 :o Blagging?

Getting it off www.mr2-direct-imports.co.uk have a ganders, its black T bar turbo 92 model with reserved on it. Tell me what you think

Cheers buddy

[jensi]

Anybody can describe to me where to mount the bleed valve?

Should I mount it between the turbo and wastgate?What about the hose going out of the wastgate on the other side?Do I have to block it?I will use a FCD.

Anybody have any pictures of thir systems??

Jensi

[Bibbs]

it's easy to do .. the G-valve fits inbetween the turbo and actuator .. and the hole is the actuator side. And yeah, cut and block the other hose .. thats the vsv (that restricts the boost by 3psi on hot days). There is a .pdf file on IMOC site that's a how to (for both the Valve and the FCD)

I got my car from Jools too !! over 18 months ago now.

My car had a exhaust, filter and ran 191 bhp and 200 lb/ft.

after the G-valve, 220 bhp and 260 lb/ft.

and I'm trying to organise a dyno day at Millway in the next few months to see how the WI, clutch and flywheel get on ..

[screechmr2]

i don't mind meeting up and helping out, but never on fri night, any time on sat or any time on sunday (they're my drunk as skunk days). off for 2 weeks after this weekend so i'll be bored.

if it isn't a fensport fcd i haven't a clue how it fits.

i've got a bleed valve and the vsv disconnected and a k&n filter, all fitted by myself and all done on more than one occasion. occasionally swap between K&N and blitz, and bleed valve been taken out, put back a few times.

[screechmr2]

bibbs, your figures at the wheel?

that torque is very good.

[Bibbs]

Don't think so .. think it's FW guess-tamates ..

The low bhp to begin with was due to a very hot day, 98 ron not 101 petrol, a slightly knackered actuator and the car being over 10 years old.

The torque aint bad .. but drops like a stone over 5k .. It's now more as the G-valve has had had a few more twists. The slipping clutch is now a stage 3 ClutchMasters and Findanza Flywheel and the WI is in the garage awaiting fitting over a weekend.

I'm aiming for about 275 lb/ft and 250 bhp on the stock Turbo ..

I've got a place where I can get GT28, GT30 & GT35 turbos for about a grand .. defo beginning to think about it. Then a big IC and MoTec. Hmmm ..

[Billy C]

Thanks for the offer Screech, unfortunately i don't get my car for another 2 weeks after the weekend :( Shame cos i wouldve got the parts togther and met up for a beer aswell. Maybe another time