How Come My Original Speakers Sounds Better Than A Xplod Speaker!?

[YarisGLS]

Been doing this today:

But after testing the Speakers, i found that for the same output from the headunit (say level 10) the toyota original door Speakers gives a generally ok sound with ok bass. But the Sony Xplod, which I expected to give the same performance (at least) gave a small volume of sound, though no distortion, but the bass sounds really.... um... artificial! the high pitch sounds good though.

The Head unit could drive up to 50Wx4, so I don't think i need amplifiers to drive thouse Speakers yet.... as I am not a music mad.

Question is: is it normal that I require turning up the volume for the Sony Xplod speakers to achieve what the toyota speakers could do at a lower volume?

And is it normal that the bass of the Sony Xplod sounds worse than the original Toyota Original speakers!?

I am really tempted to swap back to the original speakers now.... which is a really odd action.

Please help!!!!

For your info:

Head unit is JVC KD-G411

Speakers are 13cm Sony Xplod 25W norminal/ 110 Max

[armoredfist2002]

no offence but sony is crap.

anything else is better, I have been told by many people to stay away from sony ICE, I decided on pioneer, no problems and sounds great.

[chris202]

yah xplod series sucks , most of sonys range sucks actually.

[suprathai]

Is there no bass or what??

Check your wiring, cause if you wire them the wrong way by mistake the Speakers will cancel each other out...sounds really horrible. But then again sony xplod series is something you shouldn't expect too much from.

[RossP]

What everybody else has said reg. the sony stuff. Not good.

[Yaris SR Kid]

Friend of mine had an Xplod sub, they just sound awful, and check the wiring like suprathai said

[tim_mabin]

Ive got one of those octagonal sony subs sounded rubbish out the box...

But if you set it up right it sounds mint.

[Yaris_Tsport]

sony xplod is wack

[viperroom_112]

I have , kenwood door Speakers , they rrp at over 100 quid ! and when i first installed i was fairly dissapointed ! but i left it for a few weeks and warmed them up ! they sound great now ! in other words dont give up on the Speakers till you run them in !!!

David

[Baby Yari]

Even if they are pretty pooh, they should still sound better than the standards. Have a little play with the HU mate, you'll find a setting they sound decent on eventually

[Woody27]

Also 13cm will never be very bassy tbh! I have 17cm doors and they are dissapointingly unbassy! Also you may have mistaked the standards distortion for bass making them seem more bassy! I would have personally gone for 17cm and avoided sony! Shouldn't sound worst than standard at any rate though! Check wiring, connections and that both are on etc. Also check the HU settings to get the best from them! Also warming them up and letting them wear in also make a difference but i wouldn't say a HUGE difference!

[Matty]

As said make sure you havent wired them up wrong.

E.G. Negative wire on the car to positive on the speaker and vice-versa.

Plus if they are cheap Sony's you have brought dont expect a massive differnce, big difference is if you spend over a £100 on some door Speakers, preferably a set of decent components.

[Ryan1985]

The Sony setup on my old car sounded pretty decent and gave plenty of bass. Just ask Alan about my amazing vibrating dashboard!

I've went for an Alpine headunit this time mind you! :)

[viperroom_112]

As said make sure you havent wired them up wrong.

E.G. Negative wire on the car to positive on the speaker and vice-versa.

Plus if they are cheap Sony's you have brought dont expect a massive differnce, big difference is if you spend over a £100 on some door speakers, preferably a set of decent components.

Sorry to contradict but you should actually expect a pretty big difference . Because if i remeber correctly the OE Speakers were made of paper or some cheap material. Yet most new Speakers are a form of rubber or even teflar!

So as said above get checking your wiring.

Dave

[alanbradley]

The Sony setup on my old car sounded pretty decent and gave plenty of bass. Just ask Alan about my amazing vibrating dashboard!

I've went for an Alpine headunit this time mind you! :)

It wasn't so much the dashboard as the rear view mirror becoming totally unuseable!

A

[seveer unaek]

The OE Speakers are about 10w MAX, therefore any new headunit will be powering them to the full.

Make sure it's wired up properly.

Get the bass/treble/mid set properly (ie. if it's 1-10, bass at say 6, mid at 4, treble at 5, is a decent average to start on) then turn it up! 110w Max is considerably higher than the OE Speakers, plus, the frequency's are totally different as are the impedenace figures. The new Speakers will require a little more power to obtain the best from them, but as they're matched better to the headunit, they won't distort. Turn it up!

Oh and 'warming them in' is total and utter crap. It's an electrical component with no moving parts except the flex of the material and that flex is caused by the speaker signals which are a DC current which never alters it's voltage, therefore they could be on 10 seconds or 10 years and will never sound different. The change comes from the signals sent to the speakers.

[Woody27]

I heard that you usually warm up a sub before a comp and then as in like to stretch the rubber when it flexes? Just what i heard may be completely wrong! I dont think i noticed my Speakers settle in though! But yeah before i said they wont be much better then standard but yeah you should notice them as better! It's hard to say if they are better or not if you are judging volumes? I guess the real test is response at higher volumes? Had any play with them yet?

[calgon]

rite yaris Speakers are built in japan wich is good! :) and sony xplod Speakers are made by tiwanese slaves who ent got a clue wat 2+2 is

[viperroom_112]

ww.hydrogenaudio.org/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t35305.html - 39k -

forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/1/156370.html - 115k

orums.macrumors.com/archive/index.php/t-135164.html - 13k

forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1921&page=2 - 66k -

any of the above pages will emphasize the benefit of "breaking in new speakers" to avoid destroying them !!

[Ryan1985]

rite yaris speakers are built in japan wich is good! :)

Aye but they're made of paper!

[seveer unaek]

ww.hydrogenaudio.org/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t35305.html - 39k -

forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/1/156370.html - 115k

orums.macrumors.com/archive/index.php/t-135164.html - 13k

forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1921&page=2 - 66k -

any of the above pages will emphasize the benefit of "breaking in new speakers" to avoid destroying them !!

Ok then, i'll take the words of some random folk on the internet rather than the wisdom of someone who's been dealing with audio components since he was 10...Me. Or someone with 30 years experience in professional home-audio installation (my uncle)... breaking in is a waste of time. It's a pure myth. Speakers are tensioned at the manufacturing stage, any further 'stretching' or alteration of the speaker suspension or cone will be movement beyond the manufacturers factory limits and therefore will be detremental to the Speakers performance. The rubber/kevlar 'flex' is pre-tensioned. This is how speaker's 'blow'; when their frequency and wattage maximum limit is exceeded by an ill-matched amplifier or receiver. It has nothing to do with the fact that they are 'tighter' when new.

The reason that the myth exists that Speakers sound better after a few listens has more to do with the user adjusting to a new sound than to it being 'run-in'. The human race gets accustomed to things, we don't like change... any change and we feel a reason must be created... hence this myth and many more myths coming about through time.

Also, whilst people are getting used to their new sound, they fiddle with settings until it sounds as close to their previous system/speakers as possible. This they then put down to the 'run-in' and that it is somehow a necessary thing.

As i said before, it is an electrical component which reacts to differing wattages and frequencies, these cause the movements of the cone... these 'stresses' are set to a limit determined during the development and manufacturing stage of a speaker. There are no mecahnical parts, you don't oil a speaker after time, you can't tighten it and you don't want to either! It doesn't change.

I am of course talking about decent components here and if you feel that your plastic-fantastic speakers will benefit from a 'run-in' then you do that, whatever puts your mind at rest. Just know that the slacker it gets, the closer it is to destroying itself. Such is the nature of cheap parts and cheap advice.

P.S. There's bound to be a reaction to this... don't bother. I won't listen and if you have any sense you won't waste your fingers time by typing contrived information you've gathered from the internet, rather than from personal knowledge and experience.

[viperroom_112]

ww.hydrogenaudio.org/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t35305.html - 39k -

forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/1/156370.html - 115k

orums.macrumors.com/archive/index.php/t-135164.html - 13k

forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1921&page=2 - 66k -

any of the above pages will emphasize the benefit of "breaking in new speakers" to avoid destroying them !!

Ok then, i'll take the words of some random folk on the internet rather than the wisdom of someone who's been dealing with audio components since he was 10...Me. Or someone with 30 years experience in professional home-audio installation (my uncle)... breaking in is a waste of time. It's a pure myth. Speakers are tensioned at the manufacturing stage, any further 'stretching' or alteration of the speaker suspension or cone will be movement beyond the manufacturers factory limits and therefore will be detremental to the Speakers performance. The rubber/kevlar 'flex' is pre-tensioned. This is how speaker's 'blow'; when their frequency and wattage maximum limit is exceeded by an ill-matched amplifier or receiver. It has nothing to do with the fact that they are 'tighter' when new.

The reason that the myth exists that Speakers sound better after a few listens has more to do with the user adjusting to a new sound than to it being 'run-in'. The human race gets accustomed to things, we don't like change... any change and we feel a reason must be created... hence this myth and many more myths coming about through time.

Also, whilst people are getting used to their new sound, they fiddle with settings until it sounds as close to their previous system/speakers as possible. This they then put down to the 'run-in' and that it is somehow a necessary thing.

As i said before, it is an electrical component which reacts to differing wattages and frequencies, these cause the movements of the cone... these 'stresses' are set to a limit determined during the development and manufacturing stage of a speaker. There are no mecahnical parts, you don't oil a speaker after time, you can't tighten it and you don't want to either! It doesn't change.

I am of course talking about decent components here and if you feel that your plastic-fantastic speakers will benefit from a 'run-in' then you do that, whatever puts your mind at rest. Just know that the slacker it gets, the closer it is to destroying itself. Such is the nature of cheap parts and cheap advice.

P.S. There's bound to be a reaction to this... don't bother. I won't listen and if you have any sense you won't waste your fingers time by typing contrived information you've gathered from the internet, rather than from personal knowledge and experience.

Thankyou very much for correcting me . You are the "speaker" man !

[YarisGLS]

Thanks for the reply guys!

Although I try my best but I fail to find out which wire represents +ve or -ve on the door Speakers. On one side they are pink and Violet, the otherside light green and blue.

which are the correct wires to wire to?

Thanks for helping!

[seveer unaek]

Thankyou very much for correcting me . You are the "speaker" man !

Nah... just a loud and opinionated fellow! A fat Clarkson! But with a hint of sense tacked on. Like I said, 'plastic fantastic' Speakers (ie. 300w! ONLY £20!!) will flex from their original positon, which when looked at will appear to have settled in a new position, however what they have done is broken! A speaker can be created with a pane of glass... it doesn't mean it's good!

To GLS:

From memory, Pink goes to RH speaker, pin 1, which I think is positive. Violet goes to pin 2, negative.

LH side positive is the green (pin 1) and negative is the blue (pin 2)

The +/- symbols are very discreetly located on the connector. + is closest to the clip... just can't remember the exact way!

[Woody27]

I guess try the other way around and see if it sounds any better