Stupid Question I No

[mkII H3RB]

sounds like a stupid question i no....

i got a 1992 mkII mr2 and myt temperature has started running high the last few days. iobviouslyt need some more water n maybe some more coolant but where the heck to i put them?

all my lables are in japanese! lol:(:( any help would be great

[SMD]

sounds like a stupid question i no....

i got a 1992 mkII mr2 and myt temperature has started running high the last few days. iobviouslyt need some more water n maybe some more coolant but where the heck to i put them?

all my lables are in japanese! lol:(:( any help would be great

As a rule you don't put water in just coolant, when you open the engine hood on the n/s you will see a small rad cap near the fuse box, thats where it goe's.

[JappyBeast]

sounds like a stupid question i no....

i got a 1992 mkII mr2 and myt temperature has started running high the last few days. iobviouslyt need some more water n maybe some more coolant but where the heck to i put them?

all my lables are in japanese! lol:(:( any help would be great

Coolent goes in the engine bay, you will see a plastic expansion tank, Toyota claim that you should only use RED coolant and not the regular BLUE that you get at your local motorfactors, I dont think it makes much difference tho.

[SMD]

Coolent goes under the front bonnet, you will see a plastic expansion tank, Toyota claim that you should only use RED coolant and not the regular BLUE that you get at your local motorfactors, I dont think it makes much difference tho.

Since when as a mr2 had a expansion tank under the front bonnet?

Only thing up front is a washer bottle

You can see a picture of it here 7 pics down.

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61091

[JappyBeast]

I know, I changed my post straight after sending it.

[SMD]

This may help..

http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/vol...ling_system.htm

[Jesus]

If you're getting higher temps it doesn't necessarily mean you're running out of water.

Thermostat could be duff. Could have air bubbles in the system (unlikely if you haven't flushed it recently).

If you do need to top up water, you may be in more trouble. You could either have a leak somewhere, or a head gasket on it's way out.

This is a rev2 turbo (maybe rev1) engine bay, but you can see on the left of the picture the radiator cap (coolant filler cap):

This is not my photo, just one I found on the net. I believe the coolant filler cap is in the same location on an NA as it is on a tubby.

It's very difficult to check the level of coolant. Rule of thumb... open filler cap when the engine's cold and top up until water appears in the neck. You should really top up with a Forlife coolant mix (premixed red) from Toyota... but really, nowadays coolants will be sufficient... but I'd only use a new coolant if I was flushing the entire system... as I did.

Good luck.

[mkII H3RB]

sorry to bring this topic bk up, im still havin a few probs.

just to clear things up.

i circled 2 areas on the below turbo engine.

i have a N/A but the layout of what im asking is basically the same.

where the red circle is on the coolent/radiatior cap, thyis is where ive been filling up my water (untell i see water in the neck)

where the blue circle is on the pic ive been filling up my coolant as on my N/A engine there is the coolent bottle although it dont look like there is 1 on the tubby.

is this right? im doing this because on my last 2 cars (both renault meganes) have had seperate bottles for the coolant and the water.

should i be puittin the water AND coolant in the coolant bottle? (where the blue circle is) or am i doing it right?

sorry for such a stupid question lol

if i made anyhing unclear please let me no.

thanks alot in advance :)

[Jesus]

Blue circle's you're expansion tank and level gauge (although pretty impossible to read)... mix your coolant and water and pour into the red circle.

Get the car to operating temperature for the thermostat to open, let the car cool and then top up in the red circle until you see the coolant in the neck again. If you're having to do this frequently, you've either got air in the system (which you'd know pretty quickly as your temperature would sky rocket) or you've got yourself a leak... and hopefully not via head gasket.

...that's a rough guide anyway... and it might not be entirely accurate as I'm talking with experience with tubby's, not NA's. Good luck.

[mkII H3RB]

thanks for the reply, it helped alot. ive been puttin water in the radiator cap and coolant in the expansion bay maybe thats my prob.... not enough coolant,

takin it into my college garage tues to get checked for leaks

feel real stupid askin the question especially as im trainin to be a mechanic.

dont bring ur cars to me guys!! lol

[Jesus]

Wasn't really a stupid question mate. Don't be too hard on yourself!

You've got to learn somehow. Now if someone asks you, you're well informed and can help someone else.

[WildmanMob]

I've had new anti freeze coolant added to red area, but am I suppose to add coolant to the blue area?

[gazza1286]

You must have coolant in the expansion tank (blue area). Checking the level isn't easy. What I do it to draw the rubber tube attached to the cap. It should be wet (on the outside) for at least half it's length (but no more).

As the car heat up and cools down the coolant in the system and in the expansion bottle will mix. Thus the coolant strength will balance out.

I recommend buying a coolant tester (pippet) from Halfords at £1.99. Then you can be sure that you have adaquate frost protection.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...ategoryrn_33923

[pauls n/a MR2 GTI]

dont know if the toyota spec it the same as porsche, however as ANY competant mechanic would tell you NEVER MIX FLUIDS.

as the coolant is heated and cooled it goes through a process known as oxidation the fluid becomes de-ionised in partial and forms new bonds on a molecular level which alter the fluids characteristics as well as ph, viscosity, and more importantly reactivness.

when you add the new coolant, if it is not of the same type composition and dilution ratio, and, if you are adding by rule of thumb more than 15% by volume in ratio to the amount that is already there ( ie if there is 1 litre in the system and you add more than 150ml) you run the risk not only of a reaction between the fluids resulting in uneven cooling but a blockage if the reaction becomes solid or globular which could effictively stop cooling to all or partial areas affected and warp your head gaskett.

heat and oxygen compined are the most effective form of changing the characteristics of ANY solution, solid or gas on the planet and any elementary chemist or 14 year old chemisty student will tell you that.

that is effectivly what is happening in your and my engine bay, and that is why it is so worth the money and time involved to do a full engine flush of coolant and refill, rather than add a potentially reactant fluid to your engine.

sorry for the geeky post but 4 years of Chemistry at Queens Uni wasn't all about staring at Alison Scotts amazing rack...... ok 98% was but still 2% of 4 years is still a lot.

the coolant fush is in this link.

cost of flush

HOW TO DO A FLUSH

[gazza1286]

Who proposed mixing the fluids?

If the liquid in the expansion tank hadn't been changed and the car had been driven then they would have mixed BY THEMSELVES.

The advice was to establish the strength of the existing coolant before deciding the way ahead.

[pauls n/a MR2 GTI]

Who proposed mixing the fluids?

If the liquid in the expansion tank hadn't been changed and the car had been driven then they would have mixed BY THEMSELVES.

The advice was to establish the strength of the existing coolant before deciding the way ahead.

what would have mixed by themselves?

thats the point i was trying to make. if the coolant in the expansion tank was not the same as the reat of the coolant there is a risk of cantamination and reaction ESPECIALLY if the coolant is low as it increases the chance of a 15% by volume infringement.

did you read my post?

the liquid in the expansion tank should be the excess of the fluid in the system not some magical special fluid that MIGHT mix with the original. Seriously, whats with that post?

why you having a go at me? I offered advice based on sound well thought chemical principles. i really dont see what your advice was?

[gazza1286]

Your 'RISKS' of 'CONTAMINATION' are certainly overstated.

Whilst it is good practice and wise to TRY to ensure that the system is fully cleared of coolant before a re-fill. I would be amazed if this happens more than 50% of the time in practice.

Mechanics are generally under time constraints and will cut corners. Also, consider this.

It is extremely difficult to empty the system unless the car can be tilted up at the front and rear. Another area which is overlooked is the emptying of the engine block. Not to mention the expansion tank itself. The complexities of the system do not encourage an adaqute flush with water either. The radiator really needs removal for an adaquate flush.

Given this, the 'risk' of contamination is high. Unless the car has been given undiluted 'for-life' since new there will be a cocktail of all-sorts in the system.

The best that can really be achieved in these cars is an 'adaquate' frost protection because it is impossible to achieve an 'uncomtaminated state' unless the system is dismantled. The mixing coolant of different brands is inevitable.

The only REAL risk is mixing different types of coolant. Ie the 'Pink' (VW type) and the standard 'Blue' Ethylene Glycol. As said, there have been reports when this has caused a 'jelly-like' reaction.

[pauls n/a MR2 GTI]

Your 'RISKS' of 'CONTAMINATION' are certainly overstated.

Whilst it is good practice and wise to TRY to ensure that the system is fully cleared of coolant before a re-fill. I would be amazed if this happens more than 50% of the time in practice.

Mechanics are generally under time constraints and will cut corners. Also, consider this.

It is extremely difficult to empty the system unless the car can be tilted up at the front and rear. Another area which is overlooked is the emptying of the engine block. Not to mention the expansion tank itself. The complexities of the system do not encourage an adaqute flush with water either. The radiator really needs removal for an adaquate flush.

Given this, the 'risk' of contamination is high. Unless the car has been given undiluted 'for-life' since new there will be a cocktail of all-sorts in the system.

The best that can really be achieved in these cars is an 'adaquate' frost protection because it is impossible to achieve an 'uncomtaminated state' unless the system is dismantled. The mixing coolant of different brands is inevitable.

The only REAL risk is mixing different types of coolant. Ie the 'Pink' (VW type) and the standard 'Blue' Ethylene Glycol. As said, there have been reports when this has caused a 'jelly-like' reaction.

a fair point well made.

i agree.

Paul

[cremedelacreme]

Your 'RISKS' of 'CONTAMINATION' are certainly overstated.

Whilst it is good practice and wise to TRY to ensure that the system is fully cleared of coolant before a re-fill. I would be amazed if this happens more than 50% of the time in practice.

Mechanics are generally under time constraints and will cut corners. Also, consider this.

It is extremely difficult to empty the system unless the car can be tilted up at the front and rear. Another area which is overlooked is the emptying of the engine block. Not to mention the expansion tank itself. The complexities of the system do not encourage an adaqute flush with water either. The radiator really needs removal for an adaquate flush.

Given this, the 'risk' of contamination is high. Unless the car has been given undiluted 'for-life' since new there will be a cocktail of all-sorts in the system.

The best that can really be achieved in these cars is an 'adaquate' frost protection because it is impossible to achieve an 'uncomtaminated state' unless the system is dismantled. The mixing coolant of different brands is inevitable.

The only REAL risk is mixing different types of coolant. Ie the 'Pink' (VW type) and the standard 'Blue' Ethylene Glycol. As said, there have been reports when this has caused a 'jelly-like' reaction.

a fair point well made.

i agree.

Paul

Help me please! My daughter has an Yaris and for the last few days the blue coolant warning light has shown - does she need to fill up with coolant or is the cold weather anything to do with this - I know nothing!

[JappyBeast]

The blue light just means the engine is cold as the digital dash doesnt have a temp gauge.

Ask in the Yaris section to confirm this.

[mrsqueak]

hi i just bought a mr2 1990 16v none turbo as parts i got it runing but have one problem i have a coolent or water pipe left have no idea were it goes .... i gessing that it goes under near the dizzy cap as i put my hand under and blowen down the water inlet and felt air and water and looking at the pipe bend i think it duse any one can help me i will be over the moon as it still has tax and test and want to take it out for a spin then spend cash on it if i like it