Exhaust Gas Recirculation System?

[jo4004]

Hi again, still having problem when running between cold to warm with st 205 1994 model, can anyone confirm whether the st205 gt4 has a EGR system fitted, and if so where can i locate it, took the car to toyota the other day and they couldn't show what or where it was, they also couldn't find it on there microfiche and suggested that the st205 may not have one fitted, If anyone could help me with a good description of item and location it would be very much appreciated, have changed the ect sensor with no change to the fault see page two of forum for original fault Thanks again Just thought of something else this car is an import cheers

[dawesy]

if your car is an import then no egr for you.

what is the running problem you have. know a fair bit about these cars and might be able to help.

can you list the parts already changed (dizzy cap, plugs etc)

[jo4004]

if your car is an import then no egr for you.

what is the running problem you have. know a fair bit about these cars and might be able to help.

can you list the parts already changed (dizzy cap, plugs etc)

Hi Dawesy, Thanks for your interest, see below the original fault. This has been going on for a period of 13 months with absolutely no luck on finding problem, toyota have had the car and also an independent mechanic, toyota didn't change anything, and had no ideas of where to start other than leads plugs etc, i'm not sure if the fault suggests that, as it is specific, and not a random intermitent fault, the car has just recently started doing something new and may or may not be related to the original fault but thought i'd mention it. when i put my foot full down to use full acceleration the car will try to satisfy demand but then will rev up to the max and not drive if you know what i mean. Parts changed so far are Plugs, Fuel Filter, Rotar arm, ECT sensor, fault still apparent any ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks

i have a 1994 gt4 st205, when i start it from cold it starts first time and runs well for about 1.5 to 4 miles then has a total loss of power and struggles to keep running over, it will carry on in this 'papping' mode for a period of up to 5 mins then fully recovers and drives like the racing machine that it is!!! the loss of power seems to start at around a quarter to near half reading on the temperature gauge and the vehicle will not recover until it has reached normal operating temp (half way up the gauge) if i start the car and it is not either fully hot or fully cold it will go into loss of power mode straight away and will splutter and pap for a period of up to ten minutes while the car warms up, anyone with any idea's as to what this could be would be very much appreciated as it has been with toyota and an independent mechanic with absolutely no results

[Sketchy]

As Dawesy states EGR is only on UK 205. Even then it's quite hard to spot with the CC attached as it sits underneath it, this picture should help.

End 1 attaches to the gearbox end top of the cylinder head

End 2 attaches to the side of the intake manifold

Are you saying that now when you try to accelerate the revs rise but the speed doesn't? If this is the case sounds like your clutch is slipping.

[jo4004]

As Dawesy states EGR is only on UK 205. Even then it's quite hard to spot with the CC attached as it sits underneath it, this picture should help.

End 1 attaches to the gearbox end top of the cylinder head

End 2 attaches to the side of the intake manifold

Are you saying that now when you try to accelerate the revs rise but the speed doesn't? If this is the case sounds like your clutch is slipping.

Thanks very much for the info on the egr sys, thanks again, had check to see if clutch was slipping when stationary, tried to get it to slip then but was fine! but maybe its on its way out!

[dawesy]

are you getting any fault codes? you can read these by bridging E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics box near the wiper motor.

bridge the two terminals above using a paperclip, split pin etc, turn the ignition on but not start and look at the check engine light it will flash.

a continuous flash at regular intervals means no fault but if a fault code exists it will flash like so - - - - - pause - - - - pause then go on for more codes or repeat if only one code exists. count the flashes between pauses and this gives you your code. the example above would be code 54 (five flashes, pause, four flashes) this is usaly low charge cooler level.

note any codes stored and then remove the EFI fuse in the fusebox near the Battery. leave it out for ten mins, reinsert, this will clear any codes stored.

go for a drive (preferably when the fault occures) come back and read the fault codes again.

let us know all the codes found and if they were on the first or second check.

[Sketchy]

Thanks very much for the info on the egr sys, thanks again, had check to see if clutch was slipping when stationary, tried to get it to slip then but was fine! but maybe its on its way out!

You more likely to feel the clutch slipping when going hard on-boost eg 40MPH in 3rd then hit the loud pedal and see if the rev's rise as speed rises.

[jo4004]

are you getting any fault codes? you can read these by bridging E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics box near the wiper motor.

bridge the two terminals above using a paperclip, split pin etc, turn the ignition on but not start and look at the check engine light it will flash.

a continuous flash at regular intervals means no fault but if a fault code exists it will flash like so - - - - - pause - - - - pause then go on for more codes or repeat if only one code exists. count the flashes between pauses and this gives you your code. the example above would be code 54 (five flashes, pause, four flashes) this is usaly low charge cooler level.

note any codes stored and then remove the EFI fuse in the fusebox near the battery. leave it out for ten mins, reinsert, this will clear any codes stored.

go for a drive (preferably when the fault occures) come back and read the fault codes again.

let us know all the codes found and if they were on the first or second check.

Hi again, well, did as you explained and there are no faults showing, both before and after the drive in which it demostrated its usual complete loss of power. engine fault light flash continuously with no pauses on both ocassions. any ideas??????????????

[dawesy]

and its definately temperature dependant?

[jo4004]

and its definately temperature dependant?

Can't say for certain but, it only happens as the car gets towards operating temperature for 5-10 mins then when it has finished its 'papping/loss of power' thing it will drive forever at the speed and performance that's asked of it. i can narrow it down to within half a mile of when its going to start on the way to work in the morning and the same on the way home from work at night. the severity of the episode seems to be dependent on how i drive the car in the first few miles before it begins. e.g if i drive it normally it is very severe and the car can completely cut out and sometimes threaten not to restart, to the point of almost draining the Battery, but if i drive very easy and keep the car out of the turbo and below 2000 rpm the episode can be very mild and i can sometimes get away with a dozen 'papps' and just manage to keep on driving!!!!!!!!!! this made me initially think it was also turbo related?? nice fault!!!!!!!!!!!!

[dawesy]

to be fair turbo problems are usaly either smoke or no boost at all.

might be forth bridging the fuel pump resistor (located at the engine side of the battery) failing that it may be worth seeing if anyone close by can lend you their ecu for half an hour to be sure it isnt an ecu prob (make sure theirs is an import).

has it happened all the while you have had the car? if so then check behind the carpet (passenger foot well/ centre console) as this is where the ecu is located, it sits on top of the transmission tunnel. look to see if any electronic gizmos have been installed. if they have might be worth removing (noting wire locations for if they need to be reinstalled later) and see if that helps.

sounds like a warming up issue as the harder you drive it the quicker it will get up to temp meaning the fault will occure for a shorter period of time.just to rule them out check the vacumme tubes going to:-

fuel pressure regulator, located under the throttle cable on the fuel rail (near the oil filler cap)

map sensor pipe. this comes from the small black plastic fitting on the front of the inlet manifold, to the sensor located nesr the vin no on the bulkhead.

[jo4004]

to be fair turbo problems are usaly either smoke or no boost at all.

might be forth bridging the fuel pump resistor (located at the engine side of the battery) failing that it may be worth seeing if anyone close by can lend you their ecu for half an hour to be sure it isnt an ecu prob (make sure theirs is an import).

has it happened all the while you have had the car? if so then check behind the carpet (passenger foot well/ centre console) as this is where the ecu is located, it sits on top of the transmission tunnel. look to see if any electronic gizmos have been installed. if they have might be worth removing (noting wire locations for if they need to be reinstalled later) and see if that helps.

sounds like a warming up issue as the harder you drive it the quicker it will get up to temp meaning the fault will occure for a shorter period of time.just to rule them out check the vacumme tubes going to:-

fuel pressure regulator, located under the throttle cable on the fuel rail (near the oil filler cap)

map sensor pipe. this comes from the small black plastic fitting on the front of the inlet manifold, to the sensor located nesr the vin no on the bulkhead.

Hi again, had another look at your sugestions this afternoon, vacum pipes are ok, bridged the fuel pump resistor, this seemed to have an effect, the fault was not as severe,the car was well driveable, but need to have another go in the morning to be sure of the effect. does bridging the resistor tell you that its the cause and needs replaced? or something else??? Have had the car for 5 yrs so no electronic gizmos to worry about. will be in touch thanks again. cheers

[dawesy]

all it will do is ensure the pump runs at full capacity instead of the reduced voltage which is normal at off boost and light throttles.

does sound like a fuel starvation issue if it seemed better.

when was the fuel filter last changed? may well be worth changing it if you havent had it one (not forced to have been done with a service either)

it could also possibly be the O2 sensor but would borrow a known good one before buying a new one as it is less likely.

does anything link to when this first started, no matter how bizzar, eg filled up from a different filling station, jetwashing the engine bay that sort of thing.

has i worsend over time or has the severity been constant (other than the quicker it warms up the less severe bit)?

sorry for all the questions but this is a good one.

[jo4004]

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