Amplifier With Original Radio

[yoyotame]

Hello,

I am adding some Speakers to my spanish citroen c1 :)

http://www.geocities.com/yoyotame/p1053717.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/yoyotame/P1183725.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/yoyotame/p1233739.jpg

I have one question about the stereo: There is an aux plug at the back. I bought a mini-iso to rca converter as "Jan van de Wouw" posted:

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/lof...php/t60585.html

Pic:

http://www1.nl2.conrad.com/xl/3000_3999/37...B_00_FB.EPS.jpg

I tried to connect the amplifier to the stereo this way, but I do not get any signal. :-[ Is this line level signal avaliable? Or is the socket "dummy"? Is there any way to activate it? Any suggestions?

Thanks! ;)

[Jan van de Wouw]

After a couple of tests we're still not able to figure out what's

going on with the mini-ISO's on the back of the factory-radio...

I've allready emmailed Toyota and Panasonic

(manufacturor of the radio) twice, but still no answer...

Since the ISO is a standard and the pins are there we just

assumed they would be functional , sorry about that :(

[yoyotame]

Thanks Jan van de Wouw,

Since the ISO is a standard and the pins are there we just

assumed they would be functional

, totaly agree with that

[matty_aygo]

if all else fails just take out the back Speakers and get a high level to rca thingy, since your putting 6/9's in i doubt ur gunna need the rear Speakers.

[BadBoyVTEC]

Agreed. I tried to use those plugs on the back (using small spade connectors) and I had no signal from it either so just went back to using my normal EQ. I wanted to use the inputs on the connector for my satnav system and what you marked as the inputs on the connector also didn't work. Dunno whether it needs to have a signal to one of the connectors so I stopped trying.

[yoyotame]

Ok, I gave back the iso to rca connector to the store and I got the high to low level converter. One more question, where did you get the +12 and the ground signal from? cigaret lighter? Any better idea? I mean not the permanent 12 volt, I mean the remote 12 volt for the converter and the amplifier remote cable

[matty_aygo]

(bottom block)

A1 = phone mute/tach pulse

A2 = remote/ground

A3 = remote

A4 = 12V permanent IN

A5 = 12V switched OUT (i.e. for antenna or amp)

A6 = 12V IN when lights on (for screen-light or dimmer)

A7 = 12V switched IN, powered with key in ACC or IGN

A8 = ground

The only pins that are actually in use on the HeadUnit are ;

4,6,7,8

so i think you attach the remote to pin 7 and then u can either use pin 8 to ground or just ground it to the chassie.

[Jan van de Wouw]

I've only recenntly discovered that on the Aygo the

A7 and A4 are swapped in relation to "standard" ISO.

So A7 is permanent power and A 4 is switched with ignition...

[yoyotame]

Ok thanks, my (cheap) tester broke down yesterday that is why I couldn't find wich pin...

[BadBoyVTEC]

It should look a little like this:

[Jan van de Wouw]

It should look a little like this:

Preferably not; IMHO this is a HORRIBLE way to install anything...

There are WAY too much independable connections there with those "Kroonsteentjes".

Sorry, can't find a translation from Dutch, I mean these connectors:

Dependable connections are made by Crimping or Soldering,

of which the latter is most reliable, that's why that's the only

way a Certified Alarm system may be connected...

If you're not handy with a soldering iron, use butt-connectors,

but not whhat's there now (what ARE they called in English???)

[yoyotame]

Ok, thanks guys. I used the High to low converter. I soldered everything and used (thermoretractile?) to isolate... And it worked. It sounds fine...

I also tried an old stereo with rca outputs to see the difference in quality, and it does make a big difference. At least in my case. (I already adjusted gain and everything to minimize "bad noises"). Most sure I will end up buying a stereo, but not yet...

I will post some pics of how is going the fibberglass work.

See you

[Jan van de Wouw]

(thermoretractile?)

Heat Shrink Tubing?

[BadBoyVTEC]

Yeah I know soldering is the best solution and the thing is I would have done if I could be bothered. But you still only have to forget its in your hand and you burn a lovely hole in your dash. And if any adjustments need to take place then you can with the connector-blocks (thats what they are called). If I cna ever be bothered I may solder the connectors.

Oh and if I ever remove my equaliser and its soldered I would have to cut the wires.

[yoyotame]

"Heat Shrink Tubing" yes, that is what I meant. I bought an Iso male-female connector so no original cables were cut or welded...

[timmer2r]

It should look a little like this:

Dear BadBoyVTEC,

I'm installing an active subwoofer from Impulse (type SLB-300).

I don't know how to install the cinch cables from the sub to the head unit. Do I need a special connector?? The subwoofer was deliverd with this connector also: see picture (high level input connector..) or is has this nothing to do with it..

I have no experience at all with installing audio :( ... Is there a simple solution?

Allready thanks!!

timmer2r

[Jan van de Wouw]

If you're using the factory head unit you DO need to use the piece of cable you attached...

The stock unit has nog Line-Out, so no cinch-connectors or possibilities for an adapter-harness.

The High Level Inputs usually need to be connected parrallel to the rear Speakers and the 5th wire connects to ground.

So the White wire needs to connect to L-, Grey to R-, White w/ Black to L+, Grey w/ Black to R+ and Black to ground.

For the Aygo this would mean connecting White to Red on the car, White w/ Black to Red w/ Black,

Grey to White and Grey w/ Black to Black on the speaker-connector. Black connects to ground on

the Power-connector (Brown) and the remote-wire for the sub is best connected to

the +12V switched w/ ignition on the Power-connector. That wire is Blue.

Hope this helps,

[shizzniz]

just use an amplifier with an high level input...

For example this one

Pioneer GM-6300F

[Jan van de Wouw]

just use an amplifier with an high level input...

Timmer2r DOES have a subwoofer with High Level Inputs, that's what the little harness is for...

[timmer2r]

just use an amplifier with an high level input...

Timmer2r DOES have a subwoofer with High Level Inputs, that's what the little harness is for...

Thanks for the tip!

I'll figure it out! otherwise you'll hear from me again...

[BadBoyVTEC]

I would use a convertor and use the low-level inputs as high-level inputs are always pants.

[Jan van de Wouw]

A convertor basically does the same as the High Level Inputs do: bring the signal down to Line Level...

So why spend extra cash on something that's allready integrated???

[BadBoyVTEC]

The integrated ones never work as well as a good aftermarket convertor. Also you can customise the level going into the amp so it isn't too much for the amp.