Bank 1 Bank 2 ?

[mavrik2k3]

Added to my last question, could anyone define the area meant by either Bank 1 or Bank 2 ?

Help needed ..along the same lines i think.

cars a toyota avensis vvt-i 1.8 manual 2001

just had it MOt , it failed on emmisions- took the car to a guy who has a allsinging all dancing diagnostic 6k worth of snap-on kit, allthough he could not pinpoint the fault, he had a fiddle with a few things and got his mate to sort a passed MOT cert, i am thankfull of this , but the problem is still there of a fault light popping on and off.

bought myself a scanner/reader and showed these faults:

P0171 generic system too lean bank 1

P0174 ditto ditto ditto bank 2

P0420 generic Catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1

the above code i had a look at on the net honest john.co.uk says

TSB May 2005: If MIL warning light remains on and Fault Codes PO420 or P0430 can be read off ECU via OBDII port then car needs an ECU software upgrade and a new catalytic converter with a modified cat matrix coating.

honest john ,,,gave a link to this club

anyone else came across this fault ?

sounds expensive !!

the guy who read the car before , is asking it to go back to him , and maybe for a week, which again sounds expensive.

cheers in advance for any advise......Mav

ps: i got my reader from ecufix.com £74 all in

[mavrik2k3]

An update ....

i took the middle bit of exhaust off last night, this as i'm sure most are aware is the section for the second Cat, there was no sign of a ratlle which if it did rattle would have suggested the Cat had broken down, but i also took the sensor out which fits post Cat, this heavily sooted up. i got this info from lamdasensor.com

B: Rich Fuel Mixture

This will cause a heavy black carbon layer to form on the sensor element. Rich fuel mixture is usually caused by a failure in the air/fuel metering system.

question is : what to look for next ?

ohh BTW Mr Toyota wanted £600 for this length of exhaust, and £400 for the front downpipe !! £140 per sensor ! and they wouldnt even tell me how many sensors were on my car :censor: needless to say it wont ever go back to Mr T again.

pps: i bought a genuine Toyota front downpipe from the eBay , this was brand new for £35 , only snag , the guy didnt know what toyota it was for lol so any ideas on this ..part numbers i can look for ?i thought it was worth a gamble for £35.

cheers in advance Mavrik

Added to my last question, could anyone define the area meant by either Bank 1 or Bank 2 ?

Help needed ..along the same lines i think.

cars a toyota avensis vvt-i 1.8 manual 2001

just had it MOt , it failed on emmisions- took the car to a guy who has a allsinging all dancing diagnostic 6k worth of snap-on kit, allthough he could not pinpoint the fault, he had a fiddle with a few things and got his mate to sort a passed MOT cert, i am thankfull of this , but the problem is still there of a fault light popping on and off.

bought myself a scanner/reader and showed these faults:

P0171 generic system too lean bank 1

P0174 ditto ditto ditto bank 2

P0420 generic Catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1

the above code i had a look at on the net honest john.co.uk says

TSB May 2005: If MIL warning light remains on and Fault Codes PO420 or P0430 can be read off ECU via OBDII port then car needs an ECU software upgrade and a new catalytic converter with a modified cat matrix coating.

honest john ,,,gave a link to this club

anyone else came across this fault ?

sounds expensive !!

the guy who read the car before , is asking it to go back to him , and maybe for a week, which again sounds expensive.

cheers in advance for any advise......Mav

ps: i got my reader from ecufix.com £74 all in

[Ray99]

Bank 1 is Cylinders No 1 and 4, bank 2 is cylinders 2 and 3. To help me diagnose your problem, could you tell me if it's old shape or new shape? I would guess form the age that it's a new shape.

The fault codes you have listed- both too lean, means that the ECU thinks the mixture is too lean and is trying to richen it, hence the sooty sensor. Your cat is probably coated too- hence the poor operation.

Check your air flow sensor. It should be in the trunking between the air filter box and the throttle housing. It is secured by two small Phillips selftappers and has a 4 or 5 wire connector. Take it out and spray in some degreaser in the tube with the two wires, and blow it out if possible. You may end up with a new one, as I'm pretty sure the codes you've listed refer to the air flow sensor. You would probably be better off going to Mr T as they have the proper diagnosis equipment. Let me know how you get on.

Regards Ray

[mavrik2k3]

Ray,

This is just the info ive been searching for,,,Top advise and will be sure to get back to you once the problem has been sorted. the MAF has been cleaned , and performance did improve, but with the code still coming up after being cleared, it might be that further investigation is needed.

thanks

ps: Mr T was the last person to do full a service on the car, when i had it on a ramp the other day, there was a oil leak around the area of the oil filter, i decided to do a change of oil myself and new oil and air filter ,,,,the oil filter was barely hand tight !! confidence in mr T is somewhat low at the moment.

Bank 1 is Cylinders No 1 and 4, bank 2 is cylinders 2 and 3. To help me diagnose your problem, could you tell me if it's old shape or new shape? I would guess form the age that it's a new shape.

The fault codes you have listed- both too lean, means that the ECU thinks the mixture is too lean and is trying to richen it, hence the sooty sensor. Your cat is probably coated too- hence the poor operation.

Check your air flow sensor. It should be in the trunking between the air filter box and the throttle housing. It is secured by two small Phillips selftappers and has a 4 or 5 wire connector. Take it out and spray in some degreaser in the tube with the two wires, and blow it out if possible. You may end up with a new one, as I'm pretty sure the codes you've listed refer to the air flow sensor. You would probably be better off going to Mr T as they have the proper diagnosis equipment. Let me know how you get on.

Regards Ray

[rf76]

Bank 1 is usually the n/s of the car and bank 2 the o/s. If the exhaust has 2 sensors then bank 1 is before the cat and bank 2 after.

[Cypermethrin]

I have had repeated oxygen sensor go ping - and have had to push Mr T to go something about it. My car is 3.3years old and < 30 k miles and the 2.0 vvti engine

The last attempt was to decoke the engine - apparently there was severe carbon build-up on the values and injectors which have now been replaced

Mr T basically saying that the build up was due to the low mileage of the car - I did not buy this for one second !!

[GnzYza]

I believe there are 4 lambda sensors 2 placed around the manifold and 2 on the down pipe. £100+ from toyota but you can get them for £70 from other suppliers.

one or more of these may need changing?

seems like a fairly common issue on this model

[mavrik2k3]

HI just a quick update.

after taking the middle section of the exhaust off to do a "rattle " test on the Cat lol,, i also had to take the Lamda sensor off as well, for info: this one is post Cat, the Sensor showed signs of heavy soot build up, and after a chat with some very in the know people, it was decided that the Cat could still be on its way out as the emmisions was tested as well,,,ok on tickover,,,but just under the 2750 rpm limit they use on a MOT test, the amount of Co was very near the mark to a fail..

they also suggested to buy one Sensor and swap them around until the faulty one was picked up, if this indeed is the case, anyone tried this method before ,and would it be ok to get a aftermarket one rather than a Mr T sensor.

cheers Mavrik2k3

I believe there are 4 lambda sensors 2 placed around the manifold and 2 on the down pipe. £100+ from toyota but you can get them for £70 from other suppliers.

one or more of these may need changing?

seems like a fairly common issue on this model

[GnzYza]

HI just a quick update.

after taking the middle section of the exhaust off to do a "rattle " test on the Cat lol,, i also had to take the Lamda sensor off as well, for info: this one is post Cat, the Sensor showed signs of heavy soot build up, and after a chat with some very in the know people, it was decided that the Cat could still be on its way out as the emmisions was tested as well,,,ok on tickover,,,but just under the 2750 rpm limit they use on a MOT test, the amount of Co was very near the mark to a fail..

they also suggested to buy one Sensor and swap them around until the faulty one was picked up, if this indeed is the case, anyone tried this method before ,and would it be ok to get a aftermarket one rather than a Mr T sensor.

cheers Mavrik2k3

I believe there are 4 lambda sensors 2 placed around the manifold and 2 on the down pipe. £100+ from toyota but you can get them for £70 from other suppliers.

one or more of these may need changing?

seems like a fairly common issue on this model

i wouldn't think the CAT would need replacing maybe flushing it with kataclen will clear out the cat. this costs about £20 worth trying. So does those fault codes suggest that the lambda sensor has failed on bank 1 or 2?? i would go for in-direct for the lambda sensor no point paying so much for a sesnor even when the toyota one's fail. non-genuine shouldn't be far off the original part.

[silverarrow]

need a new cat and ecu and o2 sensors

another known design fault

pros with the feedback loop and ecu glitch

BUT MORE MONEY MADE BY CHANGING NONE FAULTY PARTS !!!

??? TRADING STANDARDS /WHAT CAR /SEE HONEST JOHN WEB SITE FROM DAILY TELEGRAPH !!!!!