Advice Required

[Steven Minney]

Hi all,

2 problems I need advice with, if you would be so kind.

Time for an oil change, whats recomended for an ST205 import? Just called Toyota, and they quoted £107.57......................................................... ! I think I'll buy the stuff from Fensport, but I need to know which type to order.

2nd problem, a knocking noise. When I go over a speed bump or a pot hole, there is a knock on the front passenger side. The same noise occurs when I touch the brake while reversing, and this morning when I

broke while moving forward, I felt movement and again a knocking noise.

Your help is appriciated! Cheers.

[james gt4]

Have you had any work done on your car recently. When i had my clutch done the garage hadnt tightend up one of my subframe bolts which gave me the knocking noise your talking about when pulling off and stopping at junctions. Other posibilities (more likely) drop links, suspension bushes, top mounts etc.

[marvinGT4]

Hi all,

2 problems I need advice with, if you would be so kind.

Time for an oil change, whats recomended for an ST205 import? Just called Toyota, and they quoted £107.57......................................................... ! I think I'll buy the stuff from Fensport, but I need to know which type to order.

2nd problem, a knocking noise. When I go over a speed bump or a pot hole, there is a knock on the front passenger side. The same noise occurs when I touch the brake while reversing, and this morning when I

broke while moving forward, I felt movement and again a knocking noise.

Your help is appriciated! Cheers.

i had the same noises with mine and it was the front suspension arm. the cheapest place to get them from is TCB performance parts online round about £200 per side

[Steven Minney]

This has been fun!

I took the car to a local formula 1 garage to have a look, they worked out the knock was coming from the gearbox, banging on something just above the propshaft. So they advised to buy a new rear gearbox mount and they'll have it fitted in no time. Ordered the part, but took the car to my regular garage (he was on hols previously), to my suprise there was nothing wrong with the mount, BUT the original mount did have its nuts missing...... he cleaned the thread and fixed that right up.

So I took the car home, but I could still hear this !Removed! knocking noise. So I thought to check the wheel nuts...... all the nuts where nice and tight no probs, but when I come to check the front passenger side, where I thought the original knocking was coming from, the whole wheel and hub had movenment. Ah! theres my problem.....

Everything looks tight underneath but when you move the wheel back and forth you can see where the movement comes from. I think its the anti-roll bar? I've checked the nut that bolts this straight bar on to the chassis, and it seems fine, could it just be the rubber around it thats gone? Or do I need to order a whole new bar? :( (the wheel movement only occurs when the wheels are straight. I couldn't wobble it with full lock on left or right, or when the car was jacked up).

Seems you were right Marvin.

Your help is appriciated.

[marvinGT4]

This has been fun!

I took the car to a local formula 1 garage to have a look, they worked out the knock was coming from the gearbox, banging on something just above the propshaft. So they advised to buy a new rear gearbox mount and they'll have it fitted in no time. Ordered the part, but took the car to my regular garage (he was on hols previously), to my suprise there was nothing wrong with the mount, BUT the original mount did have its nuts missing...... he cleaned the thread and fixed that right up.

So I took the car home, but I could still hear this !Removed! knocking noise. So I thought to check the wheel nuts...... all the nuts where nice and tight no probs, but when I come to check the front passenger side, where I thought the original knocking was coming from, the whole wheel and hub had movenment. Ah! theres my problem.....

Everything looks tight underneath but when you move the wheel back and forth you can see where the movement comes from. I think its the anti-roll bar? I've checked the nut that bolts this straight bar on to the chassis, and it seems fine, could it just be the rubber around it thats gone? Or do I need to order a whole new bar? :( (the wheel movement only occurs when the wheels are straight. I couldn't wobble it with full lock on left or right, or when the car was jacked up).

Seems you were right Marvin.

Your help is appriciated.

[marvinGT4]

if you go on to fensports site www.fensport.co.uk click on chassis and scroll down to lower cast sub assembly arm no1 they quote £300 for it but tcb performance parts do it cheaper. thats the one i had to change on mine, which had all the symptoms you described especially clunking when you put the car in reverse,and wheel movement .if its the anti roll bar you can just buy the bushes which are only about a tenner hope this helps

[Sketchy]

could also be the banana arm chassis bush, as that gives the symptoms you've stated but only costs a few quid, pain in the **** to replace though as you have to drop the subframe because the bush has to be inserted from above.

jack the car up and take off the wheel then get hold of the caplier and try and move it in an up and backwards direction, this should show if you have any play in the front arm/Fig 8 ball joints which is the bit Marvin is on about.

The bit I'm on about is the rear arm where it attaches to the chassis, it has a small metal sleave bushing in it which crushes as a safety mechanism to protect the mount when the wheel gets a hard knock, once broken the car will start displaying the knocking and also the backwards forwards wheel movement you mentioned but only when the car is on the ground jack it up and it becomes undetectable.

[Steven Minney]

could also be the banana arm chassis bush, as that gives the symptoms you've stated but only costs a few quid, pain in the **** to replace though as you have to drop the subframe because the bush has to be inserted from above.

Jack the car up and take off the wheel then get hold of the caplier and try and move it in an up and backwards direction, this should show if you have any play in the front arm/Fig 8 ball joints which is the bit Marvin is on about.

The bit I'm on about is the rear arm where it attaches to the chassis, it has a small metal sleave bushing in it which crushes as a safety mechanism to protect the mount when the wheel gets a hard knock, once broken the car will start displaying the knocking and also the backwards forwards wheel movement you mentioned but only when the car is on the ground jack it up and it becomes undetectable.

100% exactly! This metal part had disintigrated to nothing. I've had the whole bar changed though, it was £200 from Toyota. Problems solved, but it cost an arm and a leg, hehe! Runs so smooth now.

Many thanks all for your input.

[Sketchy]

could also be the banana arm chassis bush, as that gives the symptoms you've stated but only costs a few quid, pain in the **** to replace though as you have to drop the subframe because the bush has to be inserted from above.

Jack the car up and take off the wheel then get hold of the caplier and try and move it in an up and backwards direction, this should show if you have any play in the front arm/Fig 8 ball joints which is the bit Marvin is on about.

The bit I'm on about is the rear arm where it attaches to the chassis, it has a small metal sleave bushing in it which crushes as a safety mechanism to protect the mount when the wheel gets a hard knock, once broken the car will start displaying the knocking and also the backwards forwards wheel movement you mentioned but only when the car is on the ground jack it up and it becomes undetectable.

100% exactly! This metal part had disintigrated to nothing. I've had the whole bar changed though, it was £200 from Toyota. Problems solved, but it cost an arm and a leg, hehe! Runs so smooth now.

Many thanks all for your input.

Glad to hear all is sorted, not sure I'd have paid out for the whole arm though the bush is only about 2 quid. Ah well it's fixed now that's the main thing.

[Ant-Val]

could also be the banana arm chassis bush, as that gives the symptoms you've stated but only costs a few quid, pain in the **** to replace though as you have to drop the subframe because the bush has to be inserted from above.

Jack the car up and take off the wheel then get hold of the caplier and try and move it in an up and backwards direction, this should show if you have any play in the front arm/Fig 8 ball joints which is the bit Marvin is on about.

The bit I'm on about is the rear arm where it attaches to the chassis, it has a small metal sleave bushing in it which crushes as a safety mechanism to protect the mount when the wheel gets a hard knock, once broken the car will start displaying the knocking and also the backwards forwards wheel movement you mentioned but only when the car is on the ground jack it up and it becomes undetectable.

100% exactly! This metal part had disintigrated to nothing. I've had the whole bar changed though, it was £200 from Toyota. Problems solved, but it cost an arm and a leg, hehe! Runs so smooth now.

Many thanks all for your input.

Glad to hear all is sorted, not sure I'd have paid out for the whole arm though the bush is only about 2 quid. Ah well it's fixed now that's the main thing.

Thanks guys, this helped a lot! My knocking sound was the caliper missing a lower bolt and it was tapping the rim when I went into reverse, but this helped me diagnose the problem a lot easier. thanks again.