Dif Lock Buzzer

[4raver]

Have you any idea where the buzzer in question is located as it has stopped working...I pushed the button and it buzzed for a second and then stopped I know it is located somewhere under the dash...and I have looked in the manual but it is not clear...help please. Regards Paul...the car is a 1996

[dave.m]

Paul, dont know if it will show the specific item you are looking for but some one posted the link to the Toyota

technical manual site in an older post recently. I think it may have been Anchorman if you PM him I'm sure

he would post it again. I believe there is a small fee depending how long you stay on it.

Good Luck.

Dave.

[anchorman]

Paul, dont know if it will show the specific item you are looking for but some one posted the link to the Toyota

technical manual site in an older post recently. I think it may have been Anchorman if you PM him I'm sure

he would post it again. I believe there is a small fee depending how long you stay on it.

Good Luck.

Dave.

Yes Dave you are right the manuals are available by paying €3 per hour (about £2) but the trouble is I think this one is too old and doesn't appear. Here is the link anyway;

http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com/OnlineSub...1b-551e80966634

I think Haynes do a manual for that one but there was a post not long ago for exactly the same problem;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...mp;hl=diff+lock

You could pm ChrisG333 and see what he discovered.

However, for your info 4raver, I doubt that it will be the buzzer itself. I am more inclined to think it will be the switch on the transfer box or the fact that it isn't engaging properly (the actuator mechanism not working properly).

You can probably fathom it out. Look at the transfer box and there will be a switch on it. Disconnect the plug and bridge the contacts with a paper clip or similar. Make absolutely sure that it cannot touch any metalwork by taping it up or hanging it well out of the way and switch the ignition on. If the buzzer works it points at the actuator or the switch. If you can hear the actuator shift then most likely the switch. If it doesn't buzz it is most likely the buzzer. Does the light work as it is on the same switch?

Good luck

[4raver]

Paul, dont know if it will show the specific item you are looking for but some one posted the link to the Toyota

technical manual site in an older post recently. I think it may have been Anchorman if you PM him I'm sure

he would post it again. I believe there is a small fee depending how long you stay on it.

Good Luck.

Dave.

Yes Dave you are right the manuals are available by paying €3 per hour (about £2) but the trouble is I think this one is too old and doesn't appear. Here is the link anyway;

http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com/OnlineSub...1b-551e80966634

I think Haynes do a manual for that one but there was a post not long ago for exactly the same problem;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...mp;hl=diff+lock

You could pm ChrisG333 and see what he discovered.

However, for your info 4raver, I doubt that it will be the buzzer itself. I am more inclined to think it will be the switch on the transfer box or the fact that it isn't engaging properly (the actuator mechanism not working properly).

You can probably fathom it out. Look at the transfer box and there will be a switch on it. Disconnect the plug and bridge the contacts with a paper clip or similar. Make absolutely sure that it cannot touch any metalwork by taping it up or hanging it well out of the way and switch the ignition on. If the buzzer works it points at the actuator or the switch. If you can hear the actuator shift then most likely the switch. If it doesn't buzz it is most likely the buzzer. Does the light work as it is on the same switch?

Good luck

Thanks for the information...however, when I push the button the actuator definately engages and you can hear the "Kashiss" noise as it does and the light comes on in the dash, there is a mometory buz then nothing, when you switch the dif lock off there is the same noise and the light goes out but no buzzer....it is frustrating. Regards paul

[anchorman]

Paul

I have been thinking a bit more on this subject. You have exactly the same proplem as Chris G described. The light and the actuator are working etc. Previously Chris G mentioned a vacuum pipe in the system so I want you to try something.

Engage the diff lock and set off. Take it up through the gears to about 40 mph but not for long and on a fairly straight road. I cannot think of a reason why there is a vacuum pipe unless it is there to actuate the buzzer under certain conditions. eg

Warning light to tell you it is engaged, buzzer to tell (annoy) you if it is accidentally still engaged either above a certain speed or as you get up the gears. This is to protect the transmission. On a 4.3 it is automatic but with your manual arrangement it cannot easily be so and I wouldn't put it past the !Removed! to come up with something like that.

Give it a whirl but make sure you get up the gears.

Regards

[4raver]

This will not break the gearbox I hope...I will have a look under the car again to make sure there is nothing dangling...I did try the diflock today and it is deffinately working but the buzzer is not...I put the diflock on and drove the car forwards for about two hundred yards and the stearing feels different when it is engaged and the revs drop slightly at idle...I will report back later this week.

[anchorman]

This will not break the gearbox I hope...I will have a look under the car again to make sure there is nothing dangling...I did try the diflock today and it is deffinately working but the buzzer is not...I put the diflock on and drove the car forwards for about two hundred yards and the stearing feels different when it is engaged and the revs drop slightly at idle...I will report back later this week.

Paul

It will not damage the gearbox as long as you don't leave it for long periods but a quarter mile or so is well within the safety limits. I have a feeling there will be a second switch on the gearbox a bit like a reversing light switch that will energise the buzzer as you get up the box. That is why I wanted you to go through the gears. It will behave a bit strangely because you have locked the axles together but that is why I suggested doing it on a straight road as that will minimise the effect.

4.3s always set off in 4WD then gradually back off to FWD as the speed gets up - nothing fallen to bits yet so don't worry!

Cheers

[bitman]

just a quick question about this issue as i'm reading this... does a 4.2 2003 nrg also have the possiblility of (auto) diflock? the reason for asking is that by times the nrg steering feels strange (cornering) and stiffer. i had a land rover series 2a for years from 1967 and when i locked the freehubs & 4wd i had the same steering behaviour. the gx (2001) i have has always light steering.

[anchorman]

just a quick question about this issue as i'm reading this... does a 4.2 2003 nrg also have the possiblility of (auto) diflock? the reason for asking is that by times the nrg steering feels strange (cornering) and stiffer. i had a land rover series 2a for years from 1967 and when i locked the freehubs & 4wd i had the same steering behaviour. the gx (2001) i have has always light steering.

Hi bt

No yours is permanantly 4WD. That may account for the feel of the steering.

Cheers

[4raver]

just a quick question about this issue as i'm reading this... does a 4.2 2003 nrg also have the possiblility of (auto) diflock? the reason for asking is that by times the nrg steering feels strange (cornering) and stiffer. i had a land rover series 2a for years from 1967 and when i locked the freehubs & 4wd i had the same steering behaviour. the gx (2001) i have has always light steering.

Hi bt

No yours is permanantly 4WD. That may account for the feel of the steering.

Cheers

I was under the impression that my 1996 GX was permenant 4x4 and the diff lock was there as an additional bit of grip when needed...does my car start off in 4x4 and revert to 2x4 when a certain speed is achieved...I am a little confused.

[bitman]

just a quick question about this issue as i'm reading this... does a 4.2 2003 nrg also have the possiblility of (auto) diflock? the reason for asking is that by times the nrg steering feels strange (cornering) and stiffer. i had a land rover series 2a for years from 1967 and when i locked the freehubs & 4wd i had the same steering behaviour. the gx (2001) i have has always light steering.

Hi bt

No yours is permanantly 4WD. That may account for the feel of the steering.

Cheers

ok anchorman thanks

[anchorman]

just a quick question about this issue as i'm reading this... does a 4.2 2003 nrg also have the possiblility of (auto) diflock? the reason for asking is that by times the nrg steering feels strange (cornering) and stiffer. i had a land rover series 2a for years from 1967 and when i locked the freehubs & 4wd i had the same steering behaviour. the gx (2001) i have has always light steering.

Hi bt

No yours is permanantly 4WD. That may account for the feel of the steering.

Cheers

I was under the impression that my 1996 GX was permenant 4x4 and the diff lock was there as an additional bit of grip when needed...does my car start off in 4x4 and revert to 2x4 when a certain speed is achieved...I am a little confused.

No. it is also permanent 4WD, the difference is that you can lock the 3rd diff. This is the one that splits the drive between the front and rear wheels so if for example the rear wheels go into the snow and spin you can lock the 3rd diff and transfer the drive to the front. A 4.2 cannot do that. It is permanent 4WD but if the rear gets onto a very low friction surface torque cannot be diverted to the front and you are up the creek without a paddle. It sounds like a backward step and it is slightly but in practice it is still superior to basic FWD (as is available in the USA as a cost down option).

We can kind of lock up a 4.3. It has a drive shaft to the rear wheels that is permanantly engaged to the front wheels ( through a transfer box) it always turns if the car moves. However, there is a electro-engagable multi plate clutch in the input of the rear axle so it can be disengaged and the rear axle is then completely dead and freewheels. By pressing a button on the dash the clutch is engaged and the rear axle is then connected to the front. The rear axle cannot be fully locked and the maximum distribution is 55% to the front and 45% to the rear. This built in slip protects the transmission from undue loads that can occur during tight turns on a dry road. A second protection is built in and the clutch will autmatically disengage at speeds above 25mph. However, the clutch then reverts to automatic operation and the computer is able to steplessly vary the drive between 0 and 45%. The car always starts in 4WD (this does away with the need for traction control) and depending on how you drive will progressively disengage the clutch until it eventually becomes FWD to save fuel. It will re-engage it to cater for full throttle and various other conditions that will ensure maximum control of the car (eg. it will interact with the VSC). If you start from a junction with the front wheels on full lock it will also reduce torque to the rear axle to prevent transmission wind up. Under extreme conditions the clutch can overheat and in this case the computer will first issue a warning on the dash and eventually switch off the clutch until it has cooled.

Clever stuff on a 4.3 but time will test the durability of that clutch and the associated electronics.

On a 4.2 one wheel spinning on a slippy surface will strand the car. On a 4.1 and a 4.3 you need one front and one rear wheel spinning to strand the car after the drive has been locked.

Hope that clears it up.

Regards

[4raver]

just a quick question about this issue as i'm reading this... does a 4.2 2003 nrg also have the possiblility of (auto) diflock? the reason for asking is that by times the nrg steering feels strange (cornering) and stiffer. i had a land rover series 2a for years from 1967 and when i locked the freehubs & 4wd i had the same steering behaviour. the gx (2001) i have has always light steering.

Hi bt

No yours is permanantly 4WD. That may account for the feel of the steering.

Cheers

I was under the impression that my 1996 GX was permenant 4x4 and the diff lock was there as an additional bit of grip when needed...does my car start off in 4x4 and revert to 2x4 when a certain speed is achieved...I am a little confused.

No. it is also permanent 4WD, the difference is that you can lock the 3rd diff. This is the one that splits the drive between the front and rear wheels so if for example the rear wheels go into the snow and spin you can lock the 3rd diff and transfer the drive to the front. A 4.2 cannot do that. It is permanent 4WD but if the rear gets onto a very low friction surface torque cannot be diverted to the front and you are up the creek without a paddle. It sounds like a backward step and it is slightly but in practice it is still superior to basic FWD (as is available in the USA as a cost down option).

We can kind of lock up a 4.3. It has a drive shaft to the rear wheels that is permanantly engaged to the front wheels ( through a transfer box) it always turns if the car moves. However, there is a electro-engagable multi plate clutch in the input of the rear axle so it can be disengaged and the rear axle is then completely dead and freewheels. By pressing a button on the dash the clutch is engaged and the rear axle is then connected to the front. The rear axle cannot be fully locked and the maximum distribution is 55% to the front and 45% to the rear. This built in slip protects the transmission from undue loads that can occur during tight turns on a dry road. A second protection is built in and the clutch will autmatically disengage at speeds above 25mph. However, the clutch then reverts to automatic operation and the computer is able to steplessly vary the drive between 0 and 45%. The car always starts in 4WD (this does away with the need for traction control) and depending on how you drive will progressively disengage the clutch until it eventually becomes FWD to save fuel. It will re-engage it to cater for full throttle and various other conditions that will ensure maximum control of the car (eg. it will interact with the VSC). If you start from a junction with the front wheels on full lock it will also reduce torque to the rear axle to prevent transmission wind up. Under extreme conditions the clutch can overheat and in this case the computer will first issue a warning on the dash and eventually switch off the clutch until it has cooled.

Clever stuff on a 4.3 but time will test the durability of that clutch and the associated electronics.

On a 4.2 one wheel spinning on a slippy surface will strand the car. On a 4.1 and a 4.3 you need one front and one rear wheel spinning to strand the car after the drive has been locked.

Hope that clears it up.

Regards

It does clear it up and I have good news...I was coming out of the farm this morning and decided that as the lane is very straight and it was very quiet, that I would do as you sugested...I pushed the button and accelerated upto 40 mph and nothing...the stearing however got more tight and I decided to slow down...I came to a standstill and pushed the button on the dash and the buzzer sounded, warning me that the diff was still locked...the manual says to reverse a few yards to allow the diff lock to disengage, this I did and the buzzer stopped and the light on the dash went out...to convince myself that It was not a fluke I pushed the button and the diff locked, mover forwards and pushed again and the buzzer warned that I was still locked up, I reversed backwards a couple of yards and the buzzer stopped...Result....It might have needed that little push to get it all working again and your idea could have been the key....For me now, I am happy that my car is working fine again and would like to thank you all for your advice yet again...Thankyou and kind Regards Paul

[anchorman]

Good.

Now I understand the mechanism. As there is no physical lever for you to pull the lock out of engagement the return springs are not strong enough to disengage it as they tend to get overcome by the loading of the gears (like trying to pull it out of gear without pressing the clutch). To gaurd against this Toyota have added the buzzer which is energized when the switch is disengaged - probably a simple switching relay.

That sorst that out.

Cheers

[4raver]

What is still a niggle is that it used to buzz when it was first pressed to tell you it was engaged, now it only buzzes when it is still engaged and you have switched it off...anyway it works and that is what is important.