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Diesel D4d Engine Light On


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Anyone experienced the above issue?

What sort of common fault or fault codes people have seen?

The car will be taken to the dealer soon. But will wonder what the fault going to be. The light is permanently on now the the engine is running. I don't notice any change in the engine performance.

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Mine came on, it moaned about the MAS apparently, Mr T reset it and its been fine ever since. They trouble shooted it and they couldn't work out what had caused it. Could be similar?!

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Mine came on, it moaned about the MAS apparently, Mr T reset it and its been fine ever since. They trouble shooted it and they couldn't work out what had caused it. Could be similar?!

Thanks for your reply. After reading the forum and other websites, it seems to be that Toyota are suffering engine light problem. Not just Yaris...

However, I'm intended to keep the car for another 5 yrs. That mean the car will accumulates 100k miles. Will this car stand this sort of mileage?

What is the highest mileage people have clocked so far on the Yaris Diesel?

In view of keeping the car for another mileage I'm also considering adding the power unit sold on eBay for around £200. Anyone experienced any issue with the engine light after fitting this power unit? the reason is that the current car seem to struggle at 40mph at 5th gear. if the power unit is fitted then the extra toque it produces may solve this issue.

Any comments are welcome.

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Mine came on, it moaned about the MAS apparently, Mr T reset it and its been fine ever since. They trouble shooted it and they couldn't work out what had caused it. Could be similar?!

Thanks for your reply. After reading the forum and other websites, it seems to be that Toyota are suffering engine light problem. Not just Yaris...

However, I'm intended to keep the car for another 5 yrs. That mean the car will accumulates 100k miles. Will this car stand this sort of mileage?

What is the highest mileage people have clocked so far on the Yaris Diesel?

In view of keeping the car for another mileage I'm also considering adding the power unit sold on eBay for around £200. Anyone experienced any issue with the engine light after fitting this power unit? the reason is that the current car seem to struggle at 40mph at 5th gear. if the power unit is fitted then the extra toque it produces may solve this issue.

Any comments are welcome.

I had diesel cars all my life until my Yaris,100k miles should be no problem.I always did oil and filter change every 5000 miles,an old habit,stemming from early engines.Mr Bradley is the man to answer questions on modern diesel engines,I reckon.Driving technique is slightly different,change up later,different torque/power bands.

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Dammit, I know there was some reason my ears were burning! :lol:

There was, it seems, a spate of CELs on D-4Ds earlier in the year due to atmospheric conditions confusing the MAF sensor. Cleaning it will NOT solve the problem, instead it will cause condensation to form on it and it to add a further "MAF damp" error code to the list of crimes...

I do have a recurrent CEL "thing" but that's my own fault really - if the car's sitting idling for too long (heavy traffic of queueing for a 1/4 mile) the a'Pexi cone filter I have fitted starts sucking in the warm air from around the engine. The solution for this seems to be to just drive through it. I spirited drive for half an hour, parking and leaving the car for 15 minutes or so and then going for a further 10 minute pootle seems to clear the light in the first 5 minutes.

It is possible to reset the ECU by either disconnecting the Battery or removing the ECU fuse for 15 minutes or so. Removing the fuse is less likely to effect other electrical systems in the car of course. It is not possible to reset or read the codes using the "diagnostic paperclip" method that can be used on petrol Yari.

My current D-4D is at just over 51k miles in under 3 years and has had the e-bay chip fitted for the past 30k or so. No problems, increased torque and easy, easy fitment. I have removed mine for services in the past and then almost stalled it on the way out of the B&Q across to the stealership. My CEL issues are in no way linked to this unit.

40mph is barely tickover in 5th - better and probably more efficient in 4th imho.

There's a very infrequent member called "cullen" who has well over 130k on his with little issue iirc.

Erm, right, that was a longer reply than I intended - better head to work!

Hope that helps,

:thumbsup:

A

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Dammit, I know there was some reason my ears were burning! :lol:

There was, it seems, a spate of CELs on D-4Ds earlier in the year due to atmospheric conditions confusing the MAF sensor. Cleaning it will NOT solve the problem, instead it will cause condensation to form on it and it to add a further "MAF damp" error code to the list of crimes...

I do have a recurrent CEL "thing" but that's my own fault really - if the car's sitting idling for too long (heavy traffic of queueing for a 1/4 mile) the a'Pexi cone filter I have fitted starts sucking in the warm air from around the engine. The solution for this seems to be to just drive through it. I spirited drive for half an hour, parking and leaving the car for 15 minutes or so and then going for a further 10 minute pootle seems to clear the light in the first 5 minutes.

It is possible to reset the ECU by either disconnecting the battery or removing the ECU fuse for 15 minutes or so. Removing the fuse is less likely to effect other electrical systems in the car of course. It is not possible to reset or read the codes using the "diagnostic paperclip" method that can be used on petrol Yari.

My current D-4D is at just over 51k miles in under 3 years and has had the e-bay chip fitted for the past 30k or so. No problems, increased torque and easy, easy fitment. I have removed mine for services in the past and then almost stalled it on the way out of the B&Q across to the stealership. My CEL issues are in no way linked to this unit.

40mph is barely tickover in 5th - better and probably more efficient in 4th imho.

There's a very infrequent member called "cullen" who has well over 130k on his with little issue iirc.

Erm, right, that was a longer reply than I intended - better head to work!

Hope that helps,

:thumbsup:

A

When the car was driven to the garage this morning for the diagnosis, the engine light when was turned OFF! This is typical...

But the garage was happy to look into the problem. However, when I collected the car later, the garage said it was the ECU that was faulty and they have replaced it.

They then said as soon as I get home I need to insert the spare remote key to the ignition keyhole for the system to program the code. What do I need to do? This is not clear..

I have tried to insert the spare remote key and the security LED remained lit all the time when the key is removed. In the past, the LED flashes. Could anyone shed some light on this please?

The car starts fine with both keys, but concerned that the system is still in ht ere-programming mode for the remote keys.

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