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Spare Wheel Housing Removal


dav
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Hello

Can someone advise me how the plastic spare wheel housing is attached / removed from the rear door. I have an irritating creaking (almost rattling) sound which I am tring to pin down. It is not any wiring / cabling etc. I can replicate the noise by prodding with my finger when the spare wheel is removed. I think it is some sort of panel movement. I am aware of the TSB on spot weld repairs but my vehicle production number / date does not tie up. I wondered whether there was nything under the wheel housing that needs tightening, hence the question.

Thanks

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Hi Dav,

Never actually done this but if you think its the spare wheel carrier, whip it off and have a look

you've nothing to loose. I do get a rattle from back but its the parcel shelf roller blind part.

Good luck.

Dave. :thumbsup:

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I would put money on it being the "V" shaped guide that brings in the back door when closing.

Best to remove and give it a little squeeze in a vice....gently.

If you leave it, I bet you will have a load of chipmunks in the back soon.. hehe....

DJ

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Hello

Can someone advise me how the plastic spare wheel housing is attached / removed from the rear door. I have an irritating creaking (almost rattling) sound which I am tring to pin down. It is not any wiring / cabling etc. I can replicate the noise by prodding with my finger when the spare wheel is removed. I think it is some sort of panel movement. I am aware of the TSB on spot weld repairs but my vehicle production number / date does not tie up. I wondered whether there was nything under the wheel housing that needs tightening, hence the question.

Thanks

Try removing the spare wheel and taking the vehicle around the block. With the weight off the door it should at least change the rattle and you can see at that stage if the mounting spigot is loose. If you need to access the fixings, remove the inner door panel by carefully prizing it off with a screwdriver or broad wallpaper scraper. Tape the blade to stop the paint from being damaged. You should carefully work your way around. If any fixings stay on the door, carefully prize them out with two screwdrivers and insert them back into the door panel. I will be documenting taking the door panel off a 4.3 very soon if you can wait. Carefully peel back the polythene liner from the door and tape it out of the way and the fixings are clearly visible on the inside of the door.

If you can move the door up and down while it is shut then you need to adjust the striker plate that Best Gear has mentioned. Before you bend it, loosen the fixing screws and move the striker out so that it fits tighter into the wedge. Before moving it at all, just mark around it with a felt tip pen so you can see exactly where it came from just in case you have trouble shutting the door.

Dont forget that 4.2 owners have been posting fixes for a parcel shelf rattle so kick that out before you start tearing your motor apart!!!

Good luck

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Firstly, thanks for the replies. The creaking / rattling is related to the spare wheel as when it is removed the noise disappears. Having taken off the interior trim and moisture barrier I am faced with a inner door panel to which the various wires / connectors are attached. The gap to the outer door panel is a couple of inches and I cannot get to where the spare wheel mounting is located. I am guessing as Anchorman suggests that the weight of the wheel is either deflecting the mounts or even separating a weld as when I drive along there is continuous movement and when I shut the door there is a definite brief rattle. There is nothing externally that needs tightening.

I think I am going to have a talk with my Toyota dealer.

Thanks again

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I remember reading an article on the USA RAV4 site and they worked out that the spot welds joining the inner and outer door skin,just by the spare wheel carrier fractured apart, this involveS welding the skins together at other points, if you have the same problem i believe its knows to Toyota dealers and they have a fix for it ( but don't quote me :) ).

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