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Again With Stalling Problems But Much Worse Now


sphinktar1988
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right basically an extention on my other topic

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70978

switched my car on tonite and it was ticking over at 700rpm

i pressed the clutch and put it in to 1st then the car went to stall the rpm dropped to below 500

the lights dimmed and then the car kicked in and knocked the revs back up to 700rpm

straght away it dropped again and went to stall and it just kept repeating the same thing again and again

untill it eventually switched itself off

also im pulling up to roundabouts and junctions and the car is switching off or shaking like it is going to stall

anyone no what could be causing this?

recent mods to the car are

extra sub put in about 2 months ago

800watt amp taken out and replaced with a 500watt one - 2 months ago

blitz filter changed to an apexi - 2 weeks ago

Battery relocated - 2weeks ago

earth wire moved - 2 weeks ago

new headunit fitted - month ago

i dont no if any of these would make this happen?

any input would be appriciated

thanks

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I think that this was explained before as a possible battery/ earthing problem.

Have you checked ALL connections for cleanliness and tightness?

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I'd say either a battery/wiring problem.

Or even an air leak from your filter, because if the MAF sensor is not connected the car won't start (tried it)

You don't seem to be having much luck with your car lately.

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http://www.automotiveforums.com/t441023-st...ng_problem.html

http://www.grandprix.net/problems/Carkeepsstalling.html

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/stalling-vt31103.html

http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/myths/idling.html << quite interesting really while i was 'surfing' lol

this tcc is being talked about a bit! ... could it be that? ... when i used to have problem with the car stalling it would be a case that idling was wrong and i need to tighten up a cable so that the car idled at a 1000/or just under ... or it might have been the points or plugs ... think the plugs if they werent clean would make the car jump along the road ... oh gosh! but engines have gone more complicated now with computers etc in them :( ... things in sealed units that you cant get into n all that!

hope you get it sorted soon ... the other thing to do (cost you mind) ... maybe a engine tune/diagnostic man come have a look! ...

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A 1.3 Yaris SR does not have a Torque Converter Clutch......................(These are only fitted to automatic vehicles)

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A 1.3 Yaris SR does not have a Torque Converter Clutch......................(These are only fitted to automatic vehicles)

at this point Della runs away, stands in the corner, hangs her head in shame and just shulups! :crybaby::lol: ... awh sorry i was no good, that just sounded quite good to me, thought it could have been the answer :( ... ummmm :unsure:

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A 1.3 Yaris SR does not have a Torque Converter Clutch......................(These are only fitted to automatic vehicles)

at this point Della runs away, stands in the corner, hangs her head in shame and just shulups! :crybaby::lol: ... awh sorry i was no good, that just sounded quite good to me, thought it could have been the answer :( ... ummmm :unsure:

At least you did try to help :thumbsup:

Is there anyone else with any possible solutions?

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surely if there was a problem with the earthing it wouldn't affect the way the car idles, etc? I swapped my induc kit back to standard a few weeks ago and connected the earth wire to the same place. As soon as I started the car up it was fine but the elctrics were a bid dodgy. Electronic speedo started to flicker on and off, headlights dimmed, air con was less powerfull, etc. This all happened but the car drove perfectly normally.

Could it posibly be an alternator problem of some sort?? If the amp is on powering the Speakers and subs + head unit then that must be taking a fair old bit of the power away from the engine.

Sphinktar does the car get worse if the air con is up full, wipers are on, etc??

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right today this morning while the cold light was on and the idle was high i tryed the "use the most electricity you can" idea

switch the cd player up to full

aircon on

foot on brake

and it was when i tryed to put the windows down it started to jidder slightly but no where near what it was last nite

it seems to be intermitant

then on way home tonite after the car was warm i stopped and tryed the same test again

all that happened was the idle moved up and there was no problem :S

this is well strange

i just remembered the other week i moved my induction kit and went to switch the car on and only the oil light and Battery light came on the dash

with no back lights or anything

i went back under the bonnet yanked some wires and it was fine :S

grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr cars :@

wat gauge wiring is my earth connection? to move it is it a simple cut, twist, gaffa tape job?

i need to stop fiddling with my car lol

thanks for everyone input :) even dellared automatic car theory its appriciated lol

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Your earth connections should be good clean and very well connected.............................NOT twisted with gaffa tape :blink:

If your elecctrical connections are not good you will get a resistance built up and potential for an electrical failure or even a fire.

Please check it out completely as you have worked so hard on your car and it would be a great shame to see it go up in smoke :thumbsup:

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right basically an extention on my other topic

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70978

switched my car on tonite and it was ticking over at 700rpm

i pressed the clutch and put it in to 1st then the car went to stall the rpm dropped to below 500

the lights dimmed and then the car kicked in and knocked the revs back up to 700rpm

straght away it dropped again and went to stall and it just kept repeating the same thing again and again

untill it eventually switched itself off

also im pulling up to roundabouts and junctions and the car is switching off or shaking like it is going to stall

anyone no what could be causing this?

recent mods to the car are

extra sub put in about 2 months ago

800watt amp taken out and replaced with a 500watt one - 2 months ago

blitz filter changed to an apexi - 2 weeks ago

battery relocated - 2weeks ago

earth wire moved - 2 weeks ago

new headunit fitted - month ago

i dont no if any of these would make this happen?

any input would be appriciated

thanks

You can get probs just by Battery leads and or earth being slightly loose!

Check them first, making sure they are nice and tight.

Also, you may have over powered the Battery, spesh if it is as old as the car! Get it volt tested and see if it is french connection UK-ed

Whilst you do that, get the alternator tested in =case that is not giving out enough voltage (about 14-15 volts).

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Yeah, sounds to me like you've not got enough power for all your kit!

As for the wiring, please get a tame mechanic (is there such a thing? ;) ) to check it out. Yours wouldn't be the first modified car to catch fire. :blink:

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How about putting the car back to standard and see what happens, if it's fine, add the bits one by one and see what flucks it up. Or, leave it alone and take it for a GOOD HOUR run on the motorway, what your saying sounds like it's running pretty ill and a run often smoothes it out. There's a lot to be said for a clean filter, new Battery and a good run.

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How about putting the car back to standard and see what happens, if it's fine, add the bits one by one and see what flucks it up. Or, leave it alone and take it for a GOOD HOUR run on the motorway, what your saying sounds like it's running pretty ill and a run often smoothes it out. There's a lot to be said for a clean filter, new battery and a good run.

This is true, spesh as the ecu may need to re-program itself after being disconnected! :unsure:

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