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Kcd's Wiring Advice...


burns863
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Evening all :)

Firstly would like to say I have done a quick search and cannot find what I am looking for. So apologies to everyone if I am infact askign something covered in another thread :rolleyes:

I have recently wired up some KC Daylighters to a friends 56 Plate Hilux D4D. They are currently wired to a simple on/off switch in the cab, but I would like to modify the wiring so that the spot lights are activated with the full beam headlights (NOT dipped beam). After a quick look at the wiring with my multimeter it seems that some sort of negative switching system is used as there is a constant feed to the headlights. Is this right? This has confused me as its not what I expected :D

There does seem to be one wire (black) which changes voltage between 12V and 0V approx when the full beam headlights are engaged and disengaged. But (I think because of the begative switching...) when wired to this cable the spots work perfectly until the headlights are turned off completely. The spots then stay on and have to be turned off by the switch. Not the ideal situation :P

I would appreciate any help whatsoever :D

Thanks!

Dan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Matey

Try wiring them up through a relay, it'll take the switch out of the equation altogether.

Insert a fuse holder into the power wire (for the new lights) at the Battery and attach this to terminal 30 of a relay. Attach terminal 87 of the relay to the lights and through them to an earth.

Attach terminal 86 of the relay to an earth, and attach terminal 85 of the relay, via a small fuse 1 or 2 amps should suffice, to a wire at the headlights that goes POSITIVE (ie, from 0V to 12V) when you switch from dipped to main beam. It will also cut power from the aux lights when you switch back to dipped lights.

With all relay and earth connections made, insert a fuse into the fuse holder on the power wire to terminal 30 - try with a 5 Amp fuse to start, and work up progressively if required to one that doesn't blow.

The relay becomes the switch and will automatically allow power to the aux lights when you hit main beam. The relay is also far better suited to the task as it will handle far greater current (typically 20-30Amps) than any switch. Using the relay also means that you aren't harvesting any major current from the headlights as they are only powering the solenoid in the relay. The aux lights will draw their power from the Battery.

Did it with wifey's Paj (sorry 'bout that, it just slipped out) and it worked a treat.

If i've got any of the connections mixed up, answers on a length of 4 x 2" with a nail through the end to the usual address ;)

Hope it helps

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Hi Matey

Try wiring them up through a relay, it'll take the switch out of the equation altogether.

Insert a fuse holder into the power wire (for the new lights) at the battery and attach this to terminal 30 of a relay. Attach terminal 87 of the relay to the lights and through them to an earth.

Attach terminal 86 of the relay to an earth, and attach terminal 85 of the relay, via a small fuse 1 or 2 amps should suffice, to a wire at the headlights that goes POSITIVE (ie, from 0V to 12V) when you switch from dipped to main beam. It will also cut power from the aux lights when you switch back to dipped lights.

With all relay and earth connections made, insert a fuse into the fuse holder on the power wire to terminal 30 - try with a 5 Amp fuse to start, and work up progressively if required to one that doesn't blow.

The relay becomes the switch and will automatically allow power to the aux lights when you hit main beam. The relay is also far better suited to the task as it will handle far greater current (typically 20-30Amps) than any switch. Using the relay also means that you aren't harvesting any major current from the headlights as they are only powering the solenoid in the relay. The aux lights will draw their power from the battery.

Did it with wifey's Paj (sorry 'bout that, it just slipped out) and it worked a treat.

If i've got any of the connections mixed up, answers on a length of 4 x 2" with a nail through the end to the usual address ;)

Hope it helps

Haha. Thank you for that :)

The lights are currently wired with a relay. Only problem being is its not actually being used, and its on a switch.

Only reason is because I cannot find the wire that jumps from 0-12V when the main headlights are activated. I have found one that seems to be the other way around (12-0V) however. It seems to be some sort of negative switching system. This is the problem :(

Any ideas?...... :rolleyes:

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Haha. Thank you for that :)

The lights are currently wired with a relay. Only problem being is its not actually being used, and its on a switch.

Only reason is because I cannot find the wire that jumps from 0-12V when the main headlights are activated. I have found one that seems to be the other way around (12-0V) however. It seems to be some sort of negative switching system. This is the problem :(

Any ideas?...... :rolleyes:

I think you can overcome that by attaching your relay signal (85 & 86) in parallel to the high beam. Sounds like you've currently got one side to earth, and then the other goes to earth when you put high beam on, which is no good.

Therefore, I think you want 85 connected to power e.g. the live intput to the main beam, and 86 to the other side which goes to earth when you put main beam on.

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Haha. Thank you for that :)

The lights are currently wired with a relay. Only problem being is its not actually being used, and its on a switch.

Only reason is because I cannot find the wire that jumps from 0-12V when the main headlights are activated. I have found one that seems to be the other way around (12-0V) however. It seems to be some sort of negative switching system. This is the problem :(

Any ideas?...... :rolleyes:

I think you can overcome that by attaching your relay signal (85 & 86) in parallel to the high beam. Sounds like you've currently got one side to earth, and then the other goes to earth when you put high beam on, which is no good.

Therefore, I think you want 85 connected to power e.g. the live intput to the main beam, and 86 to the other side which goes to earth when you put main beam on.

Thank you for your quick reply T600 :)

So let me get this straight... I connect 85 to the wire that has a constant live feed (ie the one that switches from 12-0V when the main beam is activated). But when you say connect 86 to "the other side" what exactly do you mean?

Sorry if I'm just being a little dumb :P

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Thank you for your quick reply T600 :)

So let me get this straight... I connect 85 to the wire that has a constant live feed (ie the one that switches from 12-0V when the main beam is activated). But when you say connect 86 to "the other side" what exactly do you mean?

Sorry if I'm just being a little dumb :P

As I understand it, 85 and 86 are a signal - when current flows between those, it throws a switch connecting the juice coming in through 30 to 87 and lights, camera, action.

Ordinarily, you would earth 86 and connect 85 to the light circuity that you're using as a signal - as per Rainmaker02's advice.

But because your car is switching the earth of the lights, you have to do the opposite. So connect 85 to the power feed coming into the main beam, and 86 to the earth return from the main beam. No current will flow because the earth return isn't made i.e. main beam isn't on. But when you put main beam on current will flow through both the headlight, and the relay's switching circuit.

PS - this is in theory, long time since I've done anything like this, so do check this elsewhere, but I believe it is correct.

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the joys of the hilux pickup negitive switching :lol:

What everyone has said about realy wiring methods is totally correct but not its the 86 (signel to turn the relay on) wire that you have to get right.

Dont connect into the headlights at all, this will make loads of faults and all your front lights will flash like a christmas tree! Dont ask me why ive not bothered to work it out, just know the right way to do it.

I know this is correct for the MK1, 2 & 3 hilux and if yours has negitive switching its should be vary similar.

To wire up the spots to go on/off with the high beam, wire as follows:-

Undo the seven screws under the steering cowling on the dash. the bottom two hold the multiplug only, two screw into the support bars and the other 3 hold the top cowling to the bottom.

In the large multiplug you will see a thick red wire, with a yellow stripe, this is the wire for you neg switch. its in the bottom row of the plug about 6th or 7th from the right hand side.

Take a feed from this wire and run it to the relay on pin number 85

relay wiring

post-25722-1192060478_thumb.jpg

pin 30 = Bat + (feed for the spots)

pin 86 = Bat + (feed for the swiching circuit)

Pin 87 = Spots

Pin 85 = Neg switch feed from red / yellow wire

Hope this helps, full post here http://www.hpoc.co.uk/community/index.php?showtopic=1420

Cheers

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the joys of the hilux pickup negitive switching :lol:

What everyone has said about realy wiring methods is totally correct but not its the 86 (signel to turn the relay on) wire that you have to get right.

Dont connect into the headlights at all, this will make loads of faults and all your front lights will flash like a christmas tree! Dont ask me why ive not bothered to work it out, just know the right way to do it.

I know this is correct for the MK1, 2 & 3 hilux and if yours has negitive switching its should be vary similar.

To wire up the spots to go on/off with the high beam, wire as follows:-

Undo the seven screws under the steering cowling on the dash. the bottom two hold the multiplug only, two screw into the support bars and the other 3 hold the top cowling to the bottom.

In the large multiplug you will see a thick red wire, with a yellow stripe, this is the wire for you neg switch. its in the bottom row of the plug about 6th or 7th from the right hand side.

Take a feed from this wire and run it to the relay on pin number 85

relay wiring

post-25722-1192060478_thumb.jpg

pin 30 = Bat + (feed for the spots)

pin 86 = Bat + (feed for the swiching circuit)

Pin 87 = Spots

Pin 85 = Neg switch feed from red / yellow wire

Hope this helps, full post here http://www.hpoc.co.uk/community/index.php?showtopic=1420

Cheers

Gupster... your a legend :D

Thanks :)

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