Fuel Engine Warning Light When Driving

[WildmanMob]

I've just bought an 1991 japanese mr2,which has not been driven much. When i drive it, it's fuel engine warning light comes on when driving and there's no acceleration, it will then comes to a stop and stall! Battery is fine - checked and green, alternator is good, fuel in tank and did an ecu reset, but could be fuel pump? I'm on verge of selling it, but don't want to let it go. what can I do? :(

[WildmanMob]

I've just bought an 1991 japanese mr2,which has not been driven much. When i drive it, it's fuel engine warning light comes on when driving and there's no acceleration, it will then comes to a stop and stall! Battery is fine - checked and green, alternator is good, fuel in tank and did an ecu reset, but could be fuel pump? I'm on verge of selling it, but don't want to let it go. what can I do? :(

I've taken the dizzy (distrubution) cap off and the 4 metal prong-like parts have totally corroded! Got new rotor arm thing and dizzy cap. Will put it on today. Hope it runs again.

[WildmanMob]

Well I got the new rotor arm thing and dizzy cap and put them on, easy job for a mechic newbie. Running much better and not juttering. Cleaned the air filter and intake to engine bit with carberator spray, which was full of black soot.

Only problem is, although it does drive much better, it will still occasionally display engine light, no acceleration power, so I have to turn ignition key to give a blip of power to keep engine going (or else it will stall). Any reason why it does this?

[WildmanMob]

Think there might be an engine oil leak...

[Calisto]

ouch!!!! But then again my MR2 has a tiny winy oil leak but she run just fine......mebbe this is a daft question but have you checked your oil ? I once forgot to do this in my beloved Celica and the engine promptly died -_-

[Flat Pack]

If the engine warning light is coming on there should be some fault codes logged. Follow the instructions here (Yeah I know its for Toyota pick ups, but they all used the same system) and see what fault codes you're getting... Might give a clue as to what's wrong.

[JustJJ]

Another handy page here: http://www.megaboost.co.uk/bgb/diag.html

shows you MR2 specific ones :)

[WildmanMob]

Thank for responses. The engine oil was replaced 2 weeks ago on a service (castroll 5-40 semi sync - I think) and I've only driven about 100 miles, so it shouldn't be that but I'll check it. There a bit of oil under ths chassis so it's hard to see, and I was advised to get it sprayed/chassis cleaned then see if I can find out where it's leaking from.

I've never done one of those diagnosictic things before, but I see if I can do it too see if there is a code.

[Calisto]

Thats what my mechanic did ........ jet washed the engine and then drove the car around......found out the some oil that was leaking was being burnt off on the exhaust pipe, and that I had a slight leak from the one of the seals.....he put an additive in with the oil which helped freshen up the seals from the inside and now all is well.

Give it a go you have nothing to lose! ^_^

[WildmanMob]

Do you recommend a particular additive to use? thank you.

[WildmanMob]

I've read somewhere that if there was a previous leak and you add synthetic oil or maybe semi synthetic, it will clean the engine nicely, but clean off any blocks/varnish points which was sealed before, so I'm not sure this would patch any hole. :(

[WildmanMob]

Could it be the Cam cover gasket - if so, any picture where it is please, although I think I will wash chassis down if I can first to look for leak.

[Flat Pack]

I've heard rumours about using fully synthetic oil causing oil leaks or making them worse too, because the cleaning agents in it dissolve the gummed up crap that was stopping it leaking before... No idea if there's any truth to it, given the amount of misinformation about synthetic oil in general I wouldn't be surprised if its total garbage.

If the cam cover gasket has gone you often get a bit of oil in the spark plug wells. Not a huge problem in itself (except its a bit messy and you have to remember to put oil in it every now and again) and shouldn't cause the engine to run badly.

[WildmanMob]

May have found the fault. I had a 10 amp fuse in the egi? ig fuse slot (engine compartment) which should have been 7.5. I've put 7.5 and drove car again with no probs. Hopefully it has fixed my engine cut out, as it may have been wrong fuse causing fault. Is the 'ig' stand for ignition?

[WildmanMob]

i've done the test and got error 21 and error 24. How do i fix it?? :( :o

[Flat Pack]

21 is the lamda sensor, very common fault indeed :) Bit of a pain to get to in the MR2, but changing it should improve your fuel economy and part throttle response at low revs. Won't change behaviour at full throttle though.

24 - air intake temp sensor. Wouldn't be surprised if this ends up disconnected with some aftermarket induction kits? Not overly sure how important it is either!

Can't see that changing a fuse could fix it, unless it was just a bad connection or something. See how it goes though.

[WildmanMob]

ok. I believe the oxygen/lambda sensor is just near the driver rear wheel, on exhaust after flexipipe?? may have to remove a manifold little heatshield to get to it, then replace it or give it a tap to clean up.. Any idea how to build a ramp, or should I get some jacks. Thanks for quick responses

The guaze bit on my k&n filter looks bit dusty, blocked. I have cleaned with carb spray the intake to engine bit, but maybe get new filter attached, one that looks clean.

[WildmanMob]

This is great advise so far. I can't believe how much I'm learning. I was a newbie mechanic, but now feel I've levelled up a bit!

[WildmanMob]

Still can't find the sensor. I thought I found it, I found a metal (thumb length) pin that sicks into pert of the exhuast on passenger rear side. Could that be it? Maybe I need to move/extend my air k&N induction so that it is closer to the passenger side air vent.

[WildmanMob]

Found out a new cat and sensor could cost up to £500!!! but have been advised to get a de-cat for £80 :) might try fit it myself as garage cost £50 to put it on. Tricky without ramps :( do I need to do something to tell the ECU there's no lambda??

[Flat Pack]

Genuine Toyota lambdas are expensive (£100+), generic aftermarket ones (plus adaptor plate if you need one for a Mk2, not sure) can be had for £30 odd.

Some people don't like the generic ones, but I've used a couple and they've been fine so far.

Not sure about cats though as I've never had to change one.

www.buypartsby.co.uk has cheap lambda sensors (you'll need to check how many wires come off it, think its 4 but not sure) and they list cats too :)

[WildmanMob]

I've checked the site. If I have to get both lambda and cat done it may cost me £290 after VAT and thats without garage labour costs.

This does not sound good. I have no money left. :( I was hoping to only spend upto £100. Don't know what I can do

[WildmanMob]

I'm going to order one of these (£80): JapSpeed De-Cat pipe section 420mm, seen on

http://www.jap-spec-performance.co.uk/mk2-na/decats.html

does anyone know how to re-map the ecu as I won't have need for a oxygen/lambda so does I need to tell the mr2's pc something or do a reset?

[WildmanMob]

I've now got the JapSpeed De-Cat pipe section 420mm and did a ecu reset and error code 21 has gone! :D

I still have error code 24 which is air intake?

Also I have a blue wire sticking in with a 10 amp fuse (which I think should be a 7.5 amp fuse in the top middle fuse in fuse box under driver wheel. What is it?