1995 Rav 4 Wiring..

[jayeastanglia]

does anyone know where i can get a wiring diagram for a 1995 N reg rav 4 from?..I have got a electrical problem in that it keeps blowing the main fuse/injection fuse. under the bonnet...I have got the whole car inside in pieces.(A prevoise owner who didnt know what they was doing took the panels apart)I have managed to work out that a black wire with a brown/orange strip is 1 to blame and it runs from inside to the engine next to the Battery but I dont know where the wire connects to near the engine...or does anyone know what the wire connects to. its not the starter or alternator as i have disconnected them..

[cmia]

It is Ignition Live...

+

Test it..

Connect the batt up.

Splice the wire,

+ onto the wire

- onto the body

Any current show ?

NO

Contiune..

Turn ignition on

+ onto wire

- onto body

Any current, should show 12v ish

[cmia]

Do me a favour...

Have a look at the speed sensor,

wires..

I cant remmber but it could be the +pulsing

[bothwell_buyer]

If you search the forum, even recently you can get a link to the Toyota manual for the car (I have the link but bleary eyed from having too much muscle relaxant (whisky).

I have the Haynes manual from USA which is ok for this generation of car.

I'll look tomorrow,

hic....

[jayeastanglia]

It is Ignition Live...

+

Test it..

Connect the batt up.

Splice the wire,

+ onto the wire

- onto the body

Any current show ?

NO

Contiune..

Turn ignition on

+ onto wire

- onto body

Any current, should show 12v ish

yes it is Battery 12volt when the ignition is on........I did a search of the forum and all i found in realation to a manual is a 1996 onwards one...are they the same?

[bothwell_buyer]

The Haynes 1996 manual covers the RAV from 1994. However it was written for the USA market altho most of the stuff is pretty much the same.

The link is link I think to the Toyota manual which I think someone said costs £3 for a look/download.

looking at my manual, there is a black/orange cable running from the Ignition (IG1) to the injectors. If these are shorting to earth then that would cause a problem?? The other side of the injector is a B-Y wire for 2 and B-R for the other 2 to the ECM

There is also a B-O wire either side of the ignition fuse (F8 7.5amps in fuse block) with what looks like diode protection either side. From one of these, there's 2 B-O wires leaving ---going to the coil of the EFI main relay. The other going to the Circuit opening relay coil.

The fuses and relays are all in front of the Battery and from memory are running underneath the Battery.

There is a B-O wire running from the ignition switch via the fuse and down to the alternator, so again a possible point of insulation breakage.

In the manual there is 1 page on the ECM system circuit and 20 pages of other sundry electrical circuits!! Unless you have a meter to check for continuity/leakage to earth, I'd find a friendly auto-electrician. The cabling around the relays and fuse blocks are difficult to trace due to some space constraint. Another thing maybe is with the age of the car, whether a corroded connection is causing too much current to be used on the circuit? Having stripped out my dashboard, the possibility of water getting to some connections due to windscreen leaks was found.

However doing the work was a doddle compared to trying to sort electric glitches on a Jaguar XJ40 that I had - a nightmare!!

Hope this helps. If not, gies a reply.... :)

[bothwell_buyer]

ooooooooooops

the link isn't complete. anchorman might be able to help you out on this one, but the manual is for the next RAV versions.

[cmia]

Right,

I cant remmber much of the rav 4

I hate working on them :P

after more thinking.

However I am sure that the blck orange is the

Ignition LIVE for the injectors.

Does it blow any other fuses..

IE tape /cd / or any thing else ?

I would be tempted to run another ignition wire to the injectors and trying it that way..

OR checking injector.. plugs for crrosion,

If you find green sticky stuff it in.. Clean it out.. let them dry and try again.

[bothwell_buyer]

Right,

I cant remmber much of the rav 4

I hate working on them :P

after more thinking.

However I am sure that the blck orange is the

Ignition LIVE for the injectors.

Does it blow any other fuses..

IE tape /cd / or any thing else ?

I would be tempted to run another ignition wire to the injectors and trying it that way..

OR checking injector.. plugs for crrosion,

If you find green sticky stuff it in.. Clean it out.. let them dry and try again.

The B-O is the ignition live. The Black yellow stripe is the out to earth.

[jayeastanglia]

Right I have fixed it tonight..after much sorting through the wiring i came to the engine loom and the black/orange strip went to the distributor when on opening up the dizzy it smelt burnt..

As u see the wiring loom in the engine bay..

I removed this cover from the dizzy.it does actually say do not remove on the cover .but i though i cant break it any more..

And in the bottom left corner should be..

this thingy(think its a suppresor as the radio now clicks.)the suppresor thing has burnt out and burnt the wiring..But the good news is the engine runs like a dream i just got to tape all the wires up now...But now it drives i got a banging under the rear seat another day another fix..

thanks everyone who gave me ideas..I am getting a haynes manual tomoro now i know it should cover mine..

[bothwell_buyer]

Well done !!!

On the banging from the rear, you have a number of options. I found that it was the rear mounting bushes on the trailing arm, and am about to change them again after 166,000 miles. They have been done at around 80,000. It depnds on whether you get the noise on accelaration /deceleration.....then it will be the bushes altho there is also the rear diff mounting, but to date mines been ok. The rear shocks can be accessed from above thru small plastic covers internally on the wheel wells. Lower end obviously down below. The other thing to look at is the exhaust mountings at the rear cos these go. You can check the clearance between the exhaust and bodywork/diff housing too just in case things have mis-aligned. Theres a few rubber bushes/supports which could have worn so its worth getting it off the ground at the back (safely) and giving it a good look and workover.

Have fun

[bothwell_buyer]

Well done !!!

On the banging from the rear, you have a number of options. I found that it was the rear mounting bushes on the trailing arm, and am about to change them again after 166,000 miles. They have been done at around 80,000. It depnds on whether you get the noise on accelaration /deceleration.....then it will be the bushes altho there is also the rear diff mounting, but to date mines been ok. The rear shocks can be accessed from above thru small plastic covers internally on the wheel wells. Lower end obviously down below. The other thing to look at is the exhaust mountings at the rear cos these go. You can check the clearance between the exhaust and bodywork/diff housing too just in case things have mis-aligned. Theres a few rubber bushes/supports which could have worn so its worth getting it off the ground at the back (safely) and giving it a good look and workover.

Have fun

and I meant to say that what you found was something I hadn't suffered before but will look out for in future so thanks!

[jayeastanglia]

i took the pics so anyone with a non runner rav4 can always check before stripping the wiring out..hope it help-s someone 1 day..

I am jacking up the rav today and am going to check all the bushes front and rear..I did check the exhaust last night and it seems ok and the propshaft seems ok..it seems to knock a bit just after taking my foot of the throttle.so am gonna check everything..I got the mot mid december so will do what need doing now rather than later..

[Fujisan]

Well Done Jay

And thank you taking the time and the trouble to take the photo's I'm sure somebody will find them very useful in the future.

Glad your RAV is running better now and hope you find your banging noise soon

[jayeastanglia]

found the banging noise..its the rear diff rubber support..tempory fixed till i get 1..the rubber has come away from the metal support..I have rebonded it with some rubber solution that i use to repair tyres and tubes and bodged a bit of rubber between the metal and bush so at least it dont bang...I drove the car back home a distance of 33 miles with no problems..well 1 more.the fuel gauge dont work correctly which i am 99% sure its the sender in the tank....

[Fujisan]

found the banging noise..its the rear diff rubber support..tempory fixed till i get 1..the rubber has come away from the metal support..I have rebonded it with some rubber solution that i use to repair tyres and tubes and bodged a bit of rubber between the metal and bush so at least it dont bang...I drove the car back home a distance of 33 miles with no problems..well 1 more.the fuel gauge dont work correctly which i am 99% sure its the sender in the tank....

You can't beat a good bodge

[cmia]

I would recommend soldering the wires

and shrink tape..

Rather raping them together.

- Fuel gauge will probably fix its self ;)

I had an old avensis which was stood for a while.. it develped a sticky gague..

the more i drove it.. the better it got.

[bothwell_buyer]

As per yer rear rubber diff bush - it is a weakness - I've looked at forums across the Wuruld and this does pose a problem wi RAVs that have more power. I am surprised that yours has gone already, but then it depends oan hoo the thing has been driven. I believe there is a way of replacing it then strenghtening it; and I got that info frae a chap in New Zealand. Probably just replacing the rubber bush will suffice tho, wi-oot daeing onything tae support the diff. Ye can pit a bracket oan tae stiffen it up and help tae stap it frae trying tae twist oot o the mounting bu then thats ony worth it if yer daeing stannin starts at the lights and lifting the clutch at 4000rpm.

Oan the fuel gauge ah replaced the tank an its jist a footer. Course wance ye stairt takin petrol pipes apairt, ye end up cutting em then patching in braided hose. If the tank disnae leak, jist keep a note o hoo many miles yer daein. :) :) :) :)

[jayeastanglia]

I would recommend soldering the wires

and shrink tape..

Rather raping them together.

- Fuel gauge will probably fix its self ;)

I had an old avensis which was stood for a while.. it develped a sticky gague..

the more i drove it.. the better it got.

yeah i did shrink the wires together with shrink tape to keep any water out and i soldered the wires together..I meant to say i remade the loom back with tape after remaking the wire joints..it runs and drives ok..I am hopefully off to skegness on friday till sunday with the rav so i will see how it goes..the fuel gauge works when u get down to 1/4 of a tank and i have put a can in the boot just in case it does run out.

[jayeastanglia]

bothwell...I am not sure if the engine has been modified inside or ecu upgrade...but the car really does accelerate very quickly with wheel spin in 1st very easily in the dry with M/T tyres on...under hard acceleration the rear end sort of slumps down a bit and it just accerlerates very well in 5th from 50mph it is very quickly up to the speed limit..And above on a private road))

[bothwell_buyer]

bothwell...I am not sure if the engine has been modified inside or ecu upgrade...but the car really does accelerate very quickly with wheel spin in 1st very easily in the dry with M/T tyres on...under hard acceleration the rear end sort of slumps down a bit and it just accerlerates very well in 5th from 50mph it is very quickly up to the speed limit..And above on a private road))

I found with even the 3SFE engine, it was possible to outperform many cars at take-off at the lights. I also found the rear end bottoming so put adjustable Konis on it. However its still soft and we know the rubber bushes need done. I think the rear spring must go soft as well, but the mechanics (Marc at The Garage) said its cheaper just to fit the sort of spring assister that is used for towing as its cheaper and just as effective as putting in new springs. My Mk 1 was always fast if you use the engine revs, and I didn't have any unusual problems. The crankshaft seal oil leak was what ended that when my daughters had the car as the oil filler was elusive to them.

Before I started the engine upgrade etc, my wife (Mark 2) commented that it was like the car was about to take off when I pulled away from traffic lights and roundabouts...... so ye - if yours is a 3 door the power to weight ratio is good. Dunno bout the 5 door cos I've never driven one.

Ian of somewhere around Bothwell.

[jayeastanglia]

yeah its a 3door..with I am pretty sure a 3sge engine it is written on the timing belt cover..

[asabove]

Right,

I cant remmber much of the rav 4

I hate working on them :P

after more thinking.

However I am sure that the blck orange is the

Ignition LIVE for the injectors.

Does it blow any other fuses..

IE tape /cd / or any thing else ?

I would be tempted to run another ignition wire to the injectors and trying it that way..

OR checking injector.. plugs for crrosion,

If you find green sticky stuff it in.. Clean it out.. let them dry and try again.

hi just read what you were saying about the injector wire being live is it possible to turn the injectors of through this wire so you can run the car on gas with out any side effects thanks ps 95 rav australia

[Fujisan]

Welcome to the TOC asabove

Wow, we're read far and wide

[bothwell_buyer]

yeah its a 3door..with I am pretty sure a 3sge engine it is written on the timing belt cover..

Think thats fairly unusual then - maybe a swap done or an import?? Was the 3SGE not fitted to some NA Celicas and MR2s??