4a-fe Crappy Peformance

[Rockerrock]

My 4A-FE engine is having problems in low to mid RPM. I changed plugs, O2 sensor, and added a after market intake. The engine accelerates very slowly until it reaches high RPM (like a "burst" of speed or like a turbo) right before it shifts. Throttle doesn't matter how hard you push it, getting on it makes it change gears but in the same gear its like it bogs down the more you press. I do however know that the exhaust manifold is cracked in one place. Could a cracked manifold cause this big of a loss?

Thanks!

[4afte]

I do however know that the exhaust manifold is cracked in one place. Could a cracked manifold cause this big of a loss?

Thanks!

yes very much so, also the timing might be marginally off from the sound of things, if there is indeed a hole in the exhaust you may be losing valuable pressure there. which would indeed cause a substantial drop in torque.

[Rockerrock]

I found out that there are 2 bolts on the distributer and I messed with it and found out that it needs to be turned all the way clockwise (straight on stance) for the engine to run properly. The previous owner did the timing belt his self and I think that it wasn't aligned properly. If there was a way to turn it even more I think it would run better, but the exhaust manifold may be messing with the timing. There is also a wire connector on the left hand side of the interior next to where the clutch would be that has a "custom" wire and 2 male connectors shorting out both sides of the connector. Any ideas on what it is?

EDIT

I actually took the bolts out of the cap and cranked it about a half inch (4 cm?) past the threads and held it using a wire hanger temp. and the car has so much power I didn't know it did. Apparently they didn't align the timing belt...

[RedNeck 92 Gti-16]

Its not the timing belt!

I reckon that someone misaligned the distributer when installing. Its easy to do.

It took me a couple of attempts when i changed one on 4AGE.

By turning the dizzy clockwise, you are retarding the timing. By the way.

There's only one way to do this. Its time to get the timing light Rock.

Find tdc #1 piston. Hoy the distributer off the car, check the allignment marks on the dizzy body and the mark on the drive teeth and chuck it back on, roughly centralised. That should give you a range within the adjustment. No need to use the old coathanger!

If all you want to do is to get within range, without having to use wire! Hoy off the dizzy and turn it a little anti-clockwise, one tooth at a time. If your going to do this though. You might as well do it properly. A bit of farting about, but these engines are so fickle, if they are not set up using the right kit. i.e a timing gun. Youll never get it right. The adjustment between 30 degrees advance and 30 degrees !Removed! is obtainable through about 2mm rotation. So, go get a manual and a timing gun

Do you have a workshop manual? It would help so much. :D

Brad

[4afte]

ah, the dizzy for the FE head is different to the GE as the GE is driven of a bevel gear on the exhaust cam. Wheres the FE dizzy is actually driven directly by the exhaust camshaft.

FE dizzy cap:

GE dizzy cap:

[Rockerrock]

Yup, can't really take the dizzy off from the cam, it only goes on one way but the whole assembly slides in a rotational matter if you loosen 2 bolts which adjusts the timing. This is what made me think that the belt was off a tooth. The rest of the car looks slightly rigged as in the timing belt cover wasn't put on correctly and numerous other tiny things indicating someone not quite knowing what they are doing. I'll reset the dizzy to default and wait for my replacement exhaust manifold before messing with it again, next time with a timing light.

[Rockerrock]

Ahh, I recognized that I have burned a quart of oil in 300 miles with no visible smoke from the exhaust. Seems like I'm in the running for a engine rebuild. Will rent a compression tester and post results.

EDIT* checked compression in the rain :P

Engine starter will only crank 1 or 2 times before spinning with all plugs out. Had to put 3 plugs in to test. Used a screw in type connector. Readings are (from left to right) 1-2-3 120 and 4th 108-110. Pressure drops rapidly from time of crank down to 30 (think gauge I rented sucks). It's supposed to hold pressure until manually relieved by tyre valve stem. Screwed in a few threads per cyl, didn't have time to screw in all the way and it would be hard to get it back out since the plug holes are so long. Looks like I'm in the running for a engine rebuild using AE111 pistons, head gasket, and cams.

Can't measure cams but looks like lobes are worn to the point where the ends are flaring outwards and slightly chipped.

Another note, can't spin tires in rain on a up-grade and barely in gravel, performance is tons better manually adjusting timing via distributer cap (turn clockwise past mechanical limitations and duct taped).

Should I rebuild this engine (169K miles) or just get one from eBay, or even go with a 4A-GE conversion? Either way I'm going to use the AE111 parts (pistons, gasket, etc) if needed.

I'm also reading a manual from eautorepair.net.

[RedNeck 92 Gti-16]

Compression readings are low. They should be 9.81 bar or 142 Psi maximum differnce between cylinders 10% 0.98/15. Maybe the guage you rented wasnt so hot! Sick dogs!

There is a hell of a lot of difference(above the block). Between the FE and the GE, but they share similar principles in design.

As to the dizzy's settings. On the FE, its driven straight off the exhaust cam, yes, but if you set TDC #1, then once you've taken the cap and bolts off, the distributer body should be able to be pulled out of the apperture.

Not 100% on this, as ive only worked on 4AGE, but if not how else can you remove the dizzy? Is far easier to mess up installing the distributer, than it is to miss-align the belt, so i'm sticking with the idea that the dizzy has been installed out of allignment. I dont know what would happen if the timing belt was put on wrong, but i dont think it would run right at all.

Crikey, if youre thinking of doing an engine swap, there are so many options. 3SGTE, 4AGZE, 4AGE 20 Valve, all require buckets of cash though!

Its not horendous mileage, on the one FE you got. Might be a case of limping on till she blows! I never did like supporting a girl that drinks too much, but isnt any fun!! Where's she putting it all? If its not burning, then it must just be a gasket, right?

[TheSpannerMonkey]

if i remember correctly the dizzy of a ge has a gear on the ned which allows for fine adjustment but the dizzy on an fe connects to the cam via a plate type thing (kinda like a flate blade screwdriver if this makes sense) which can only go in 2 ways, up or down,

also reading this for some reason i cant get the thought out of my head that the ht leads are on in the wrong order, but that should stop it running completely so i dont know why i keep thinking it

[Rockerrock]

if i remember correctly the dizzy of a ge has a gear on the ned which allows for fine adjustment but the dizzy on an fe connects to the cam via a plate type thing (kinda like a flate blade screwdriver if this makes sense) which can only go in 2 ways, up or down,

also reading this for some reason i cant get the thought out of my head that the ht leads are on in the wrong order, but that should stop it running completely so i dont know why i keep thinking it

Problem solved! The engine has bad rings, pistons are caked with carbon (which is holding together #4 piston lol), exhaust manifold is cracked, and the timing belt was off a tooth. I went ahead and aligned the timing belt and replaced the manifold and I have about 89 HP now which is tons better than 60ish . Baby drinks some oil but should hold me over for a few months ;) until I replace the bottom end with another block with 4a-gze pistons, rods, gaskets, and crank.

Anyone know where I can get replacement new or used cams? My lobes are worn to the point where they are cracking and flaring outwords .

Your right about the cam, it won't move in relation to the cam itself but it has a slotted pressure plate with 2 bolts that you can turn adjusting the cap (which turns the whole assembly).