Dual Mass Flywheels

[tc123]

I only saw my new clutch briefly but I would say it is the same as the new one you have there. It's interesting that the new pressure plate has those curved ridges about a quarter of the way down the springs, I imagine there's a difference in the metal thickness where they are? I wonder if maybe I've got the wrong release bearing (too wide) and it's rubbing against them when the clutch is depressed and the contact point moves further down the springs. I know they used the new release bearing because I saw the old one.

Anyway glad your job has gone smoothly. Hopefully the one that comes out of my car has some marks on it to give some clues to the cause of the problem, I should have it on Wednesday so will post some pics if there are

[HEMI]

I dont think you got a bigger release bearing as it clips onto the release fork and if it was too big it wouldnt actually fit onto the fork,thats the only pic I didnt take cos it was ok,no marks or bearing noise(I did change it obviously)

[chatman]

Phah mine had a bigger hole in it than his... even putting a dent in the clutch plate....Mine got replaced with OEM parts so hopefully will last until I pass the RAV on....

Been following this thread with great interest as well.... HEMI you've been a good contributor for the Solid DMF cause...

Lets hope Toyota GB read this and take note more of what useless parts they fitted originally and then made us users fight over getting a part changed they knew was faulty but can cause so much grief and expense to change....

It went from the DMF issue in the older 4.2 model D4D RAV's to the useless runflats on the top spec 4.3 model Rav's....

[tc123]

I've had the Blueprint kit (that was supplied to the garage by a local motor factor) fitted now and all is very smooth indeed.

I've got the clutch kit they took out but not managed to take any pictures, there's nothing untoward to see though anyway, the bearing has put an even wear mark on the clutch springs, the friction plate has been running centrally on the flywheel and pressure plate, the release bearing looks as if it may run a tiny bit out when rotated but it's very hard to tell.

However it's interesting to hear that Russ is having identical problems to what I had with the same kit from the same supplier - I'm sure we can 100% rule out any fitting issues so I think we have either a faulty batch or they are supplying products that basically in my, my garage's and Russ's eyes (and I'm sure HEMI would agree?) aren't fit for purpose.

The way Midland Car Spares wanted to deal with my initial call was for me to buy another kit from them, fit that and then wait for the warranty claim to be sorted (up to 3 weeks) and then they'd give me a refund for the 2nd kit providing the 1st one was faulty - obviously, and to their credit the garage refused to fit another kit unless they had supplied it.

But reading the small print on the eBay listing (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220406879222&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) it basically says that they won't give refunds for faulty parts, only replacements. I can imagine the response I'm going to get when I ring them to ask for my money back AND £200+ labour charges, does anyone have any advice on the best way to approach this, or who might be the best organisation to advise me and probably Russ too?

[HEMI]

I've had the Blueprint kit (that was supplied to the garage by a local motor factor) fitted now and all is very smooth indeed.

I've got the clutch kit they took out but not managed to take any pictures, there's nothing untoward to see though anyway, the bearing has put an even wear mark on the clutch springs, the friction plate has been running centrally on the flywheel and pressure plate, the release bearing looks as if it may run a tiny bit out when rotated but it's very hard to tell.

However it's interesting to hear that Russ is having identical problems to what I had with the same kit from the same supplier - I'm sure we can 100% rule out any fitting issues so I think we have either a faulty batch or they are supplying products that basically in my, my garage's and Russ's eyes (and I'm sure HEMI would agree?) aren't fit for purpose.

The way Midland Car Spares wanted to deal with my initial call was for me to buy another kit from them, fit that and then wait for the warranty claim to be sorted (up to 3 weeks) and then they'd give me a refund for the 2nd kit providing the 1st one was faulty - obviously, and to their credit the garage refused to fit another kit unless they had supplied it.

But reading the small print on the ebay listing (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220406879222&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) it basically says that they won't give refunds for faulty parts, only replacements. I can imagine the response I'm going to get when I ring them to ask for my money back AND £200+ labour charges, does anyone have any advice on the best way to approach this, or who might be the best organisation to advise me and probably Russ too?

I cant help on the legal side but I did say go for the Blueprint kit,much better quality,you pays your money etc,.the kit that Russ supplied had no manufacturers markings which always makes me think,hmmmm,none of my suppliers had ever heard of Comline.

As far as warranty goes if the part was faulty(obviously so)then they should pay for all the work and parts

[Davrav]

But reading the small print on the ebay listing (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220406879222&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) it basically says that they won't give refunds for faulty parts, only replacements. I can imagine the response I'm going to get when I ring them to ask for my money back AND £200+ labour charges, does anyone have any advice on the best way to approach this, or who might be the best organisation to advise me and probably Russ too?

You have a right to expect items bought in good faith to be 'fit for purpose'. If you can prove that was not the case with these parts, then I suspect you have a case. Check with the CAB and Trading standards for their advice. A small claims court summons often does the trick.

I wish you luck.

[tc123]

Many thanks for the advice.

I've contacted them at lunchtime and they do seem to be taking me seriously, I'm waiting for a call back to formally initiate a warranty claim from the supplier who should be able to collect the parts from me.

I'll keep posting any developments

[tc123]

HEMI, out of interest do you still have the boxes that Russ's kit came in? Was it two smallish boxes with no brand names on, if so are there any serial numbers etc on them? Mine have been binned but I remember there being something on them

Thanks

[HEMI]

No unfortunately our bins are emptied on a tuesday but they were in white plain boxes with a "Comline" sticker and a part number that began with CTY then some numbers but no markings on the clutch parts themselves,we all ummed and arred at this but I was under obligation to fit them

[james2009]

Hello - I think my flywheel is on the way out - engine is noisy and I can feel vibrations under the clutch pedal. Other times it's fine though!

Took it to an independent garage, who suspected it and quoted £1400 to repair. That seems quote good having read all of the previous posts, but I wonder if anyone either knew of a (potentially cheaper) garrage around North Oxfordshire, or knew of a cheaper, but reliable part that we could suggest they use.

The quote included a kit taht is £800.

Thanks for any help - it's really upset us that it's going to cost so much and has come at so the wrong time :(

[bonjo]

Hello - I think my flywheel is on the way out - engine is noisy and I can feel vibrations under the clutch pedal. Other times it's fine though!

Took it to an independent garage, who suspected it and quoted £1400 to repair. That seems quote good having read all of the previous posts, but I wonder if anyone either knew of a (potentially cheaper) garrage around North Oxfordshire, or knew of a cheaper, but reliable part that we could suggest they use.

The quote included a kit taht is £800.

Thanks for any help - it's really upset us that it's going to cost so much and has come at so the wrong time :(

If the quote is from "Inch...", you can try swindon authorised dealer, they have a lower labour rate

If you go for non franchise dealer check the warranty on parts & repair compared with the dealer one

[HEMI]

Make sure whoever you use that the clutch is a BLUEPRINT kit

[Fusionracing62]

Hi Guys

I am new to this forum. I am really hoping someone is able to give me some advice. The DMF has failed causing the clutch to break on our 2002 Rav4 and my husband is going to replace the parts himself.

He has asked me to find out the answers to the following questions:

Does anyone know whether you have to disconnect both drive shafts and the prop? does the gear box come away from the dif, leaving the dif in situ?

Does anyone know what are the torque settings for the flywheel?

I would be really greatful if you could contact me if you know the answers to the above questions.

Thanks

[dave.m]

I think you need Anchorman or Hemi's advice on this one, if they are not around quick enough try sending them a personal

message (PM). There is also a member called Bodge-it-Fix-it-Run who has done the job himself, you could also PM him.

Good luck

[anchorman]

Hi Guys

I am new to this forum. I am really hoping someone is able to give me some advice. The DMF has failed causing the clutch to break on our 2002 Rav4 and my husband is going to replace the parts himself.

He has asked me to find out the answers to the following questions:

Does anyone know whether you have to disconnect both drive shafts and the prop? does the gear box come away from the dif, leaving the dif in situ?

Does anyone know what are the torque settings for the flywheel?

I would be really greatful if you could contact me if you know the answers to the above questions.

Thanks

Welcome to the club.

The torque for the flywheel is 88Nm or 65ft/lbs depending if he is metric or pounds shillings and pence!

The drive shafts are prized out of the gearbox just like doing any other front wheel drive car and the prop shaft comes off then leave the transfer box attached to the box and lift it all out together. That should answer his question but if it isn't clear just come back.

Here are the major torque settings;

torques.pdf

[HEMI]

Driveshafts out I'm afraid,the transfer box stays on the gearbox and is a bit tight to get out and back in,crossmembers have to come out which means the steering rack has to be detached from the crossmember,we leave it attached to the column and tie it up from any good solid point up above the rack and just leave it hanging.Be prepared for scuffed knuckles and the job time is about 9 hours odd,so make him lots of tea n sarnies,lol

[Fusionracing62]

Hemi, Thanks for your help. I will pass on the info.

[Fusionracing62]

anchorman, Thanks for your help. I will pass on the info.

[londonmark]

Hi,

I have an 05 RAV 4 D4D with 65K on the clock. I have noticed that I have a vibration through the gear stick at between 1800 and 2000 rpm when accecelerating most noticably in 5th gear but also in other gears. I think that it may be getting slightly worse recently as mu missus mentioned it the other day. Is the is the onset of DMF failure? If so what advce do you have in terms of approching TUK or dealing with the problem.

I have tried to find details of early symptoms in the thred but most people are just referring to loud noises similar to a blown exaust before total drive failure

Cheers

MB

[HEMI]

It starts with a small vibe and sometimes a small rattle and when you let the clutch out in 1st it lurches rather than doing a smooth take off,you seem to get used to the vibes as it sort of grows with you then all of a sudden the vibe becomes a graunge(if thats a proper word,lol)then it sounds like your gearbox is gonna go bang,I had to change my wifes clutch at around the 65k mark too,sounds like you are going to join the club,I hope I'm wrong though.If its under warranty you should be ok but if its not you're in trouble.I contacted Toyota Head Office with this complaint and they told me that our Rav was fitted with the modded clutch and flywheel from the factory,it seems that's what they say to everybody to get out of it

[londonmark]

Thanks HEMI - I do have a vibration between 1800 and 2000 rpm and the gearstick rattles as well which does not sound good. When you say "under warranty do you meant the extended Toyota or an aftermarket warranty? I have only had the car a few months and done less than 5K so I am a bit hacked off to say the least!

What is the best way to proceed? I guess I need it confirmed by Toyota first and then see if they will pay for it or not?

Has anybody else had sucess with TUK at my age AND mileage?

Do you know how long it is likely to last before the drive packs up?

Cheers

MB

[HEMI]

I cant comment about the warranty side of things but as far as the clutch actually packing in,I dont think that you lose drive as I dont know of any that have lost drive(yet) as the clutch seems to last the course,its the actual flywheel that collapses and destroys itself,the noise will be so unbearable that you have to change the clutch anyway,then theres the arguement of dual mass or single mass flywheels and we all know which one I prefer,lol

[anchorman]

They do occasionally lose drive first but tend to make a real racket as a warning.

[chatman]

They do occasionally lose drive first but tend to make a real racket as a warning.

Yep sounds like a tank on full throttle mode.. .. then you'll loose all ability to change gear and a strong left leg is needed to kick it in gear as the DMF would have at this point destroyed it's self...

Best to change the clutch at same time as DMF....Gagarage said my clutch was fine but offending DMF had dented the clutch plate..so both changed at same time... Anyhow as the clutch has to come out to do the DMF...might as well replace at same point...

You just need to decide if DMF or SMF is required....

[HEMI]

Bluepoint SMF every time,completely changes the car,it becomes smoother and quieter,just my 10 penneth worth,lol

The ones I have changed only had the DMF's implode,clutches were still good,so I stand corrected about no drive.It's the correct procedure to change clutch plates and thrust bearings/CARM units when replacing anything to do with clutches,the lot has to be changed otherwise it becomes false economy,nobody wants to take a gearbox out twice.