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Can't Remove Rear Wheel


topgazza
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Thought I'd check for nails in my wifes offside rear tyre as it seems to have a slow puncture. After removing the wheel nuts I couldn't remove the wheel from the hub at all. I was a bit unsure about hitting with a rubber hammer. The car is 2.5 years old. Is the wheel stuck to the rear brake hub, as I suspect, and if so is the hammer the best way ?

Has anyone else had a similar experience ?

Cheers

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Thought I'd check for nails in my wifes offside rear tyre as it seems to have a slow puncture. After removing the wheel nuts I couldn't remove the wheel from the hub at all. I was a bit unsure about hitting with a rubber hammer. The car is 2.5 years old. Is the wheel stuck to the rear brake hub, as I suspect, and if so is the hammer the best way ?

Has anyone else had a similar experience ?

Cheers

jack car up, loosen all wheel nuts (but don't remove completely) and then gently lower car checking all the time to see if wheel comes unstuck. This should eventually happen as the car's weight forces the stuck wheel off the drum.

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Jack car up, loosen all wheel nuts (but don't remove completely) and then gently lower car checking all the time to see if wheel comes unstuck. This should eventually happen as the car's weight forces the stuck wheel off the drum.

Ah...good tip..that should do it, cheers.

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If that doesn't work....

Place wheel chucks behind and infront of any wheels that will still be on the ground.

Loosen and remove the wheel nuts and jack the car up.

Release the handbrake (keep the car in gear at this point)

Spray some release oil behind the wheel onto the hub (WD 40 or similar) and leave for 5 minutes or so.

While waiting place axle stands under the car to stop it falling. (if you have no axle stands find something that will take the weight of the car if were to fall.)

Try giving the wheel a kick with the sole of your feet, preferably while wearing heavy boots, it's also worth spinning the wheel while doing this. (you will have your back to the car kicking the top or side of the wheel with the sole of your boot)

If that doesn't get it off, lay down behind the car and try useing a rubber hammer - again spinning the wheel while hitting it. (the problem(s) here are.. 1. the "bounce" of rubber on rubber (try not to hit the alloy at this point) can equate to less of the force being used to get the wheel off)

If that fails.. get something a little heavier.. I've used a 3ft length of scaffold pole and a sledge hammer. (At this point you do NOT want to be hitting your alloy wheel.. if you do, you could crack it)

If it still won't budge by hitting the tyre with the heavier object then you may need to hit the wheel itself, protect the wheel by placing a good strong piece of wood infront of it and hit the wood with the hammer.. again useing the lightest hammer 1st as you will get more force going through hitting the actual wheel.)

If all the above fails... with the wheel nuts back on and the car on the ground, loosen the nuts by 1 or 2 full turns so that there is room for the wheel to move. Drive the car forwards quite sharply and then step hard on the brakes... repeat this a couple of times to see if it will shock the wheel away from the hub.

If all else fails then it may need to be heated to free it.. this of course will ruin the finnish on the alloy wheel and leave it needing refurbished.

If however you have steel wheels heat won't matter too much, and neither will hitting the wheel itself with the heavy hammer.. you can easily pick up another steel wheel from a breakers.

If you follow the above.. SAFTEY FIRST.. use axle stands or place something under the car to protect you if it falls from the jack while you are hitting the wheel.

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...or take it to Micheldever Tyres and get them to do it....they do very good puncture repairs as well and if thats not possible then their tyres are cheaper than just about anywhere. Goodyear GT2 £40 all in....

Many thanks guys.

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Thats because Micheldever are a tyre wholesaler and shouldn't be selling direct to the public!

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Thats because Micheldever are a tyre wholesaler and shouldn't be selling direct to the public!

They also sell through Protyres outlets and the excellent Bracknell Tyre & Battery, who charge the same prices. The workshop in Micheldever is impressive though but theres always a long long queue....

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They also sell through most of the tyre retailers in the UK, there outlet in Halifax is one of the largest tyre storage depots in Europe.

They actually get around the wholesale/public thing by having "other business'" which they use...EG. Micheldeverwholesale is a different company from Micheldever Tyres, but both are run from the same parent organization. I wouldn't be surprised if the companies you mentioned are also owned by the same parent company.

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They also sell through most of the tyre retailers in the UK, there outlet in Halifax is one of the largest tyre storage depots in Europe.

They actually get around the wholesale/public thing by having "other business'" which they use...EG. Micheldeverwholesale is a different company from Micheldever Tyres, but both are run from the same parent organization. I wouldn't be surprised if the companies you mentioned are also owned by the same parent company.

Theres certainly a strong tie in at the very least although Bracknell Tyres are definitely an independent. Good deals though and even Kwik-fit price match Micheldever

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Thought I'd check for nails in my wifes offside rear tyre as it seems to have a slow puncture. After removing the wheel nuts I couldn't remove the wheel from the hub at all. I was a bit unsure about hitting with a rubber hammer. The car is 2.5 years old. Is the wheel stuck to the rear brake hub, as I suspect, and if so is the hammer the best way ?

Has anyone else had a similar experience ?

Cheers

An easier method is to slightly undo the bolts, whilst car is on the ground, then drive a very short distance, say ten feet. Then, back to where you were and jack it up and take off the bolts and test if it is loose enough.

The movement whilst bolts were loose should be enough just to 'break' the rust seal that has formed, without damaging anything. :yahoo:

When re-fitting, smear a little copper grease on the mating faces to prevent it happening again.

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Will do, thats a very good tip indeed. I'm going to try all this tomorrow, Monday

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I found the best solution was a swift hard kick from underneath the car - but then that was just heat (from AutoBahn driving) that had seized the wheel to the hub...

Though, from CFC's post - probably not the safest solution... worked though.

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I found the best solution was a swift hard kick from underneath the car - but then that was just heat (from AutoBahn driving) that had seized the wheel to the hub...

Though, from CFC's post - probably not the safest solution... worked though.

Problem with kicking, when car is on a jack is that it may fall off and hurt you or damage the car.

That is why I suggested loosening slightly and moving vehicle a bit. Nothing should damage, if you only drive a short distance. Remember kiddies, when jacking up (!), get a bit of extra support, such as axle stands! B)

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