Engine Dies

[reym]

FOr the sake of other toyota users :

I have replaced the igniton coil with an ignition coil with resistor. And I does the job! The problem with ordinary ignition coil is that it heats up very fast and whenever the sun is hot, the heat doubles and it stalls.

So guys replace your ignition coils with an ignition coil with ballast resistor!

[voccz]

;) Hi guys,well i own a corona st171. Seems like all this batch of tyt engine's have similar engine break down during idling. I did some Xperiment myself on dis babe, as some of u guyz did the same thing. But wat i found out is that the relays and the injector sensor did play some of the faults. first wat i did is,ground the igniter direct to the Battery - port,& make sure all the relays contact in the fuse/relay box are cleaned. Try using soft abrasive paper to scrub the contact legs on the relays & the fuses as well. It helps. Some of the mech. says it could be the manifold behind the engine,it might leak some air out,which causes the unstable idling. But i didn't go into that yet,but u guys can check whether the gasket on the manifold has a leak or not. So far mine's still ok.touch wood... goin into fuel pressure or throttle cleaning would be the last thing i would check,coz if it is sudden death...the car won't start after even 30mins-1hr of rest. some tips for u guys out there that if you want ur baby to perform better,u can get ur Xhaust piping & Xtractor changed. THis would lighten the engine,coz now i manage to push it to 6.5rpm even on the 3rd gear. I even change the air flow filter the Performance filter,dis would even give this baby a better push on the pick-ups...even the v6 could smell my smoke man... Well,good luck to u guyz out there...Keep on... don't give up on your babe.

[stormy_dawns]

I am a 21 year old college student who knows NOTHING about cars. I have a 1988 Toyota Camry and for the past 4 years it has been idling really high and stalling in the middle of intersections. I have taken it to 6 toyota dealerships to have the problem fixed but to no avail. The last one was in a pretty big city did $600 dollars worth of "work" (changing the air filter, spark plugs etc) to fix the problem (that i could have had a friend do for much less) then a block away from the dealership it stalled in an intersection and someone hit me, even though according to the dealer it didn't stall once while he had it. :ffs: there seems to be a thousand people with this problem yet the dealerships look at me like I am just a stupid girl and I don't know what I am talking about. As described at times it will start perfectly then I go to restard and it won't start at all. I have been told this in an electrical problem. I can't help thinking the idleing too high and the stalling is a fuel problem since it acts like I am giving it alot of gas at times to where it revs and then other times it just stops like it's not getting any. A friend suggested checking the throttle position sensor, but I don't know if Camrys even have one, and if I did I wouldn't know where it is, what it looks like, how to check it, how to replace it etc. If anyone figures out the solution to the problem please get ahold of me it is driving me crazy! Thank you!

[cfsme]

I am a 21 year old college student who knows NOTHING about cars. I have a 1988 Toyota Camry and for the past 4 years it has been idling really high and stalling in the middle of intersections.  I have taken it to 6 toyota dealerships to have the problem fixed but to no avail. The last one was in a pretty big city did $600 dollars worth of "work" (changing the air filter, spark plugs etc) to fix the problem (that i could have had a friend do for much less) then a block away from the dealership it stalled in an intersection and someone hit me, even though according to the dealer it didn't stall once while he had it. :ffs:  there seems to be a thousand people with this problem yet the dealerships look at me like I am just a stupid girl and I don't know what I am talking about.  As described at times it will start  perfectly then I go to restard and it won't start at all. I have been told this in an electrical problem. I can't help thinking the idleing too high and the stalling is a fuel problem since it acts like I am giving it alot of gas at times to where it revs and then other times it just stops like it's not getting any. A friend suggested checking the throttle position sensor, but I don't know if Camrys even have one, and if I did I wouldn't know where it is, what it looks like, how to check it, how to replace it etc. If anyone figures out the solution to the problem please get ahold of me it is driving me crazy! Thank you!

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[ctyankeeinok]

I had a 92 Previa with similar problems. It turned out to be the clamp on the air tube to the air filter housing was loose. The engine was pulling in too much air (through the air filter and through the leak). It was loosened by a quick lube place that was trying to figure out how to open the housing to examine the filter. In short, make sure the air filter housing is secured and the main air tube clamp is tight. Even if the clamp is loose, but the tube is on securely, the engine will will draw in too much air and the computer will not realize it.

[brassc]

I have a 93 grand am that had a similar problem like this. It would die at intersections at idle but if there was a draw on the engine then it would be fine but when in park or nuetral the engine would serge. I am a college mechanic student and i will briefly give you maybe a few ideas that could possibly be your problem.

As most people will think it has to do with the fuel or air, such as fuel pressure or a vacuum leak, or miss firing it could very well be a electrical situation such as a malfunctioning sensor. On my car i replace the

1. Alternator thinking maybe its not putting out enough voltage.

2.The intake gasket thinking it was a possible vacuum leak.

3. Fuel filter maybe a clogged filter.

4. plugs and wires.

5. coil packs

and the last and final think that i tried and never thought of before

6. I replace The (IAC) idle air control valve and the (o'2 sensor) Sometimes cleaning the idle air control valve isnt enough and the valve may not be opening far enough telling the engine it has to much or to little gas at idle and throws the idle mixture way off. I replaced the valve and all was well my idle was steady and it quit surging between 1500 and 2000 rpm. There is a simple way to check this valve and that is with a voltmeter or have someone that has a little bit of an idea of what they are looking for look at it.

i hope this helps you some

[Bad_dude]

i sure do have the same problem with the rest of you. my 1999 corolla would roll out fine from my garage. after i parked it and drive off again, i'll be having problems with the engine. as if fuel pressure is low and the car would hesitate going beyond 2000rpm. eventually the engine will be cut-off and i'll be having a hard time starting it. after a while, it would start fine as if nothing is wrong, but recently i noticed that the engine is hesitating while i'm driving..

i had a mechanic clean the carbeurator already and my spark plugs are all brand new. but this does not seem to help. hope somebody could lead me to an accurate answer to this problem.

If you have a 1999 Corolla, don't you mean the fuel injectors and not the carburator?

For other information, I think the 1999 fuel filter is together with the fuel pump so it can only change with the fuel pump if it fails.

[jherentals]

I've had the same type problem w/ my 94 Camry 4 cylinder and actually got it corrected once and for all. I have 235,000 miles on it and it would drive fine when cold, then warm up and rough idle and/or die at a red light or stop sign. Long story short, I disconnected the vac line at the EGR and also disconnected the solenoid which hooks up to the EGR valve to disable it. I also bought a "performance chip" on eBay. There are a lot of sellers who sell them, but I got mine from a seller named "rapid velocity". Basically the chip tricks the ECU to think the vehicle is running cold, so the mixture stays rich for best performance. Since the engine is just a 2.2 Litre, gas mileage is hardly affected, if at all. Then I drove the car for a day or so on short errands to give the ECU time to adjust to the combination of the performance chip and the cancelled out EGR. The car runs strong and better than new. No hesitations or stalling any more. The check engine light came on because the EGR is disconnected, but that's a non issue for me. Now I don't have to worry about the car dying out at every intersection. It runs strong now and very smoothly all the time. The chips vary in price, but 20 to 30 dollars is typical and they take just a few minutes to put on.

[jaustjr77]

I had the same problems for the last few days with my 1996 Camry. Started just fine but it idled around 1500-2000 rpms. Once the engine would get warm the idle speed would jump up quickly and then it would die. I disconnected the coolant temp sensor and it runs like a dream now. That's all it was. I hope that helps.

[gems-usa]

So is it the Coil. It sounds like 2-3 folks have tried swapping out the igniter and it had no effect.. I can confirm it i nothing about the Fuelsystem and doubtful its the Distributor?

My gas runs LPG as well as gasoline, LPG was added aftermarket, Well the whole motor, 1G-FE of some year with some unkown miles was put in my 1977 Corona, got motor from Japan importer, been running five years strong with the system. Had the same LPG on my old 12R motor with 450,000KM but it had much more as the gauge dint work when we bought it.

So our car developed a stalling problem 5 monhs ago. Totally random. But seems to be after the car is running for about 5 minutes, but then it never happened for the past 3 weeks. We dont drive it often, but then you think its ok and it just dies.

Similarly we must wait about 5-10 minutes and then it runs like normal.. Does this on either Gasoline or LPG which are separate systems. So its not that. Then it runs fine, but seems to occur when we let off the acceleration...

My loca guy suspected the ignition switch which he routed around yet to no avail. We have not been able to reproduce the problem for our mechanic, but we now suspect the coil and or igniter, but based on reading this maybe just the coil. What about the coil with a balast? my old 1967 ford had had!!! more info please..

My wife is sick of driving it when it stalls. Just got the hazard lights fixed as it becoming problem at any unkown time... So it not fuel stuff and must be electric.

My electrician said carry a bottle of water and a towel, if it happens again, wet the cloth to make it damp, put it on the coil/igniter, Or igniter is monuter on thr side of the coil. he thinks its overheating and this will cool it off and help it to start.

But this failing to start can occur when it cold too! If i dont get it to run the first crank, it just happens like it hot, and wont start for 5 minutes. cranks and will run and rev but let go the starter switch and nothing. So i will try the coil soon and hope its cured, Love this car and or New yet old but not so old motor.

Thanks