Idling

[ae102]

has anyone had any issues with the cars revs suddenly dropping off? it has happened in the past when the revs just drop then shoot up - i have had the car on dianostics twice in the past when this has happened and nothing has come back. it just happened again today and wonder if antone knows what causes it.

merry christmas to everyone on the toc forums and hope santa brings you lots of tuning goodies!!!!

[robtheman]

hi

i had this,

do you use 95 ron petrol?

i had used this for a while when it happend, i put a tank of tesco 99 in and hasnt done it since.

[ae102]

hi

i had this,

do you use 95 ron petrol?

i had used this for a while when it happend, i put a tank of tesco 99 in and hasnt done it since.

no i only use v -power. i tried that tesco stuff and found the car didnt like it - seemed to have no go, evan the misses noticed.

[Jock Fran]

I find mine goes up and down a bit when the air con is on. Can sometimes go up to maybe 1200 ish and then back down to the normal 800 or whatever.

I think it's just varying load from the A/C compressor and climate control. I haven't worried about it really.

[ae102]

I find mine goes up and down a bit when the air con is on. Can sometimes go up to maybe 1200 ish and then back down to the normal 800 or whatever.

I think it's just varying load from the A/C compressor and climate control. I haven't worried about it really.

the first time i brought it to the attention of the mechanic he asked if i had the air con was on as this would be normal but the air con wasnt on which ruled that out. i thought it might be the airflow metre or something within the ecu but diagnostics that mr t used came up with nothing. as the engine warning light didnt come on the ecu doesnt record a fualt apparenly - but i thought that the diagnostics could find something but not if the engine warning light doesnt come on.

[Ghazanfur Iqbal]

I find mine goes up and down a bit when the air con is on. Can sometimes go up to maybe 1200 ish and then back down to the normal 800 or whatever.

I think it's just varying load from the A/C compressor and climate control. I haven't worried about it really.

the first time i brought it to the attention of the mechanic he asked if i had the air con was on as this would be normal but the air con wasnt on which ruled that out. i thought it might be the airflow metre or something within the ecu but diagnostics that mr t used came up with nothing. as the engine warning light didnt come on the ecu doesnt record a fualt apparenly - but i thought that the diagnostics could find something but not if the engine warning light doesnt come on.

I have had a few cars and had a similar problems. when i use the heating the cars revs go up slightly. I had a Seat Leon 1.8 20 Valve turbo and the rev needle kept bouncing up and down just a small fraction but like a spring and was told that was the speedo cable was worn out and needed replacing and when i did that all was fine.

i would check with other people to be on the safe side before doing any jobs to the car because it can be expensive.

[ae102]

I find mine goes up and down a bit when the air con is on. Can sometimes go up to maybe 1200 ish and then back down to the normal 800 or whatever.

I think it's just varying load from the A/C compressor and climate control. I haven't worried about it really.

the first time i brought it to the attention of the mechanic he asked if i had the air con was on as this would be normal but the air con wasnt on which ruled that out. i thought it might be the airflow metre or something within the ecu but diagnostics that mr t used came up with nothing. as the engine warning light didnt come on the ecu doesnt record a fualt apparenly - but i thought that the diagnostics could find something but not if the engine warning light doesnt come on.

I have had a few cars and had a similar problems. when i use the heating the cars revs go up slightly. I had a Seat Leon 1.8 20 Valve turbo and the rev needle kept bouncing up and down just a small fraction but like a spring and was told that was the speedo cable was worn out and needed replacing and when i did that all was fine.

i would check with other people to be on the safe side before doing any jobs to the car because it can be expensive.

thanks - but the problem is too intermitten - today was the first time its done it in months so im thinking its more of an electrical/sensor issue and i know a few peeps on here had a similar prob and was wondering if they got to the bottom of it? i have her booked into a mates garage for a sevice ( i hate paying for a glorified oil change) so i will ask him to run her on the diagnostics. the other times she has been on a diagnostic was at toyota so see if independant garage can find anything. someone out there must know?

[Hogie]

Fella i knew had a skoda that did that. What was happening was this sh?tty gunkie white stuff was building up in the throttle body and in the idle control valve,car was getting so bad the engine would cut out because i guess it was getting starved of air when at idle. He cleaned the throttle body and plastic air intake pipe out with carb cleaner and it was fine after that. That vw(1.6 100bhp) engine was known for that,it was something to do with doing short journeys or something like that,what he was told anyhow. That mite not be the same prob as with your car but said id put it out there

[ae102]

Fella i knew had a skoda that did that. What was happening was this sh?tty gunkie white stuff was building up in the throttle body and in the idle control valve,car was getting so bad the engine would cut out because i guess it was getting starved of air when at idle. He cleaned the throttle body and plastic air intake pipe out with carb cleaner and it was fine after that. That vw(1.6 100bhp) engine was known for that,it was something to do with doing short journeys or something like that,what he was told anyhow. That mite not be the same prob as with your car but said id put it out there

nice 1 hogie - i hadnt thought of that. will take the intake of over weekend n see if it dirty. got some carb cleaner there so if there buildup around throttle body i can clean it. i hope it is something simple. maybe check the lambda sensor too - any advice? you got me thinking now - maybe a leak in the intake or on the exhaust side? willl check that too.

[Hogie]

If your mates got diagnostics's he can show you a graph of it going from rich to lean and if it switching quick enough,think you'd learn more about weather its working properly or not by looking at that. But it up to you. Try the throttle body anyways but wear gloves and you wouldnt want that stuff anywhere near the paint work. Hopefully that mite fix it

[ae102]

If your mates got diagnostics's he can show you a graph of it going from rich to lean and if it switching quick enough,think you'd learn more about weather its working properly or not by looking at that. But it up to you. Try the throttle body anyways but wear gloves and you wouldnt want that stuff anywhere near the paint work. Hopefully that mite fix it

i have done work on the intake on me old car so fairly clued up there. interesting about lean to rich - i was hoping diagnostics would show the way but toyota said all was ok!? this is whyi'm gonna have it done by me mate when i have to pay for the dreaded service(lot of money for a stamp) to see if it turns up ought. still gonna clean the throttle body but there shouldnt be a big build up but will soon see. any way of testing afm?

[Hogie]

If your mates got diagnostics's he can show you a graph of it going from rich to lean and if it switching quick enough,think you'd learn more about weather its working properly or not by looking at that. But it up to you. Try the throttle body anyways but wear gloves and you wouldnt want that stuff anywhere near the paint work. Hopefully that mite fix it

i have done work on the intake on me old car so fairly clued up there. interesting about lean to rich - i was hoping diagnostics would show the way but toyota said all was ok!? this is whyi'm gonna have it done by me mate when i have to pay for the dreaded service(lot of money for a stamp) to see if it turns up ought. still gonna clean the throttle body but there shouldnt be a big build up but will soon see. any way of testing afm?

You'd need to know what voltage and resistance the air flow meter works within and then get you multi meter out to see is it all within range,have to know the pins too,think there's 5 ,i dont know where you'd get that data from.Workshop book id guess. That meters the same for a lot of toyota's,i got one on e bay that worked fine. But i dont use it now because all that was wrong with the old one was it was dirty so cleaned it and put it back in,no more mil light. But when it was flagging it the car was still driving ok.

Your rite about over priced servicing,iv a good private garage thats going to do my work from now on. What your paying for at Toyota is the nice leather seats and airconed dealer with the "free coffee" and paper and all that other crap with half a dozen service advisers who dont know anything when all you really want to do is talk to the mechanic who fixed you car about what was wrong.

[ae102]

If your mates got diagnostics's he can show you a graph of it going from rich to lean and if it switching quick enough,think you'd learn more about weather its working properly or not by looking at that. But it up to you. Try the throttle body anyways but wear gloves and you wouldnt want that stuff anywhere near the paint work. Hopefully that mite fix it

i have done work on the intake on me old car so fairly clued up there. interesting about lean to rich - i was hoping diagnostics would show the way but toyota said all was ok!? this is whyi'm gonna have it done by me mate when i have to pay for the dreaded service(lot of money for a stamp) to see if it turns up ought. still gonna clean the throttle body but there shouldnt be a big build up but will soon see. any way of testing afm?

You'd need to know what voltage and resistance the air flow meter works within and then get you multi meter out to see is it all within range,have to know the pins too,think there's 5 ,i dont know where you'd get that data from.Workshop book id guess. That meters the same for a lot of toyota's,i got one on e bay that worked fine. But i dont use it now because all that was wrong with the old one was it was dirty so cleaned it and put it back in,no more mil light. But when it was flagging it the car was still driving ok.

Your rite about over priced servicing,iv a good private garage thats going to do my work from now on. What your paying for at Toyota is the nice leather seats and airconed dealer with the "free coffee" and paper and all that other crap with half a dozen service advisers who dont know anything when all you really want to do is talk to the mechanic who fixed you car about what was wrong.

oh youve been to lindops in queensferry!! not getting no engine warning light comes on and no fault code is being logged? will trycleaning sensors - just use carb cleaner?

[Hogie]

Jemca on Edware road! It should say sensor safe on the can but id say use it sparingly if you do use it on the sensors,theres a rubber O ring on the AFM you dont want to damage and thats stuffs corrosive. When i was cleaning mine i didnt need to use it,just a small bit if isopropanol alcohol and cotton bud,cant do much damage with that. What happened was i changed the air filter and didnt vacuum out the air box(had the vacuum there but forgot like an fool ) so sh*t got sucked in passed it and that set it off. I wont advise you to use it on the sensors because i don't want you coming back telling me your car wont start now!!! :)

[Danny_TTE_compressor]

i had summat similar for months, the car would idle at 800, then a 1000 then 500 then 1200 and back about 800, but after they changed the inlet manifold the fault has gone. and prior to them changing it they could never find a fault. iv been told the gasket on the inlet manifold is pretty crap. just a thought it was worth a mention.

[ae102]

i had summat similar for months, the car would idle at 800, then a 1000 then 500 then 1200 and back about 800, but after they changed the inlet manifold the fault has gone. and prior to them changing it they could never find a fault. iv been told the gasket on the inlet manifold is pretty crap. just a thought it was worth a mention.

nice one mate - sounds exactly what mine is doing. did they change the gasket or the whole inlet manifold?