What Price Service

[Manxrav]

No not another grip at my local Toyota Main dealer.My T180 is due for it,s 20000 mile service shortly and has any T180 owner had this service done and how much did it cost.I will ring them for a price before booking it in but an idea of cost would be very welcome, I would think that the price is not that much different for any level of 4.3?

Clare

[anchorman]

No not another grip at my local Toyota Main dealer.My T180 is due for it,s 20000 mile service shortly and has any T180 owner had this service done and how much did it cost.I will ring them for a price before booking it in but an idea of cost would be very welcome, I would think that the price is not that much different for any level of 4.3?

Clare

When I got mine it was £155 for an intermediate (every 10k) and £210 for a full service (every 20k). Things like cabin filter, brake fluid, fuel filter as per service schedule and are extra.

That was late 2006 and might have gone up now. I do my own.

Cheers

[chillyjeff]

My T180 20,000 mile service was done in September at a cost of £171.06. This included a 10% discount as I purchased a loyalty card (£15)at the dealership that lasts for the life of the car. Dealer is William A Lewis of Telford.

[Manxrav]

Well the T180 went in for it,s 20000 mile service yesterday.Total cost including labour came to £339.65. That also included VAT(£50.59)

Labour was 162.50

(including brake fluid change of £32.50)

Parts came to £88.20

Engine flush + service kit & consumables +spirax gear oil came to £38.36

Invoice total £289.06 + £50.59 vat

Must admit car does run alot better now and they did the TPMS for nowt(no more flashing light). Comments would be most welcome

Clare

[anchorman]

Well the T180 went in for it,s 20000 mile service yesterday.Total cost including labour came to £339.65. That also included VAT(£50.59)

Labour was 162.50

(including brake fluid change of £32.50)

Parts came to £88.20

Engine flush + service kit & consumables +spirax gear oil came to £38.36

Invoice total £289.06 + £50.59 vat

Must admit car does run alot better now and they did the TPMS for nowt(no more flashing light). Comments would be most welcome

Clare

You've lost me clare, why are there 2 bills for parts? What parts were £88.20 if the service kit and consumables were £38.36? Why did they flush the engine when modern semi synthetics don't need flushing?

I was told the 20k service was £210 all in by RRG.

[duncerduncs]

Well the T180 went in for it,s 20000 mile service yesterday.Total cost including labour came to £339.65. That also included VAT(£50.59)

Labour was 162.50

(including brake fluid change of £32.50)

Parts came to £88.20

Engine flush + service kit & consumables +spirax gear oil came to £38.36

Invoice total £289.06 + £50.59 vat

Must admit car does run alot better now and they did the TPMS for nowt(no more flashing light). Comments would be most welcome

Clare

I'm also a little confused Clare, as I've been quoted £260 for my 20k service by my local Mr T

[anchorman]

Well the T180 went in for it,s 20000 mile service yesterday.Total cost including labour came to £339.65. That also included VAT(£50.59)

Labour was 162.50

(including brake fluid change of £32.50)

Parts came to £88.20

Engine flush + service kit & consumables +spirax gear oil came to £38.36

Invoice total £289.06 + £50.59 vat

Must admit car does run alot better now and they did the TPMS for nowt(no more flashing light). Comments would be most welcome

Clare

I'm also a little confused Clare, as I've been quoted £260 for my 20k service by my local Mr T

Duncs

Does that include brake fluid? The price I quoted doesn't. If so OK but if not I would negotiate hard. The service consists of engine oil and filter, transfer, gearbox and diff oil, the rest is inspect only so £210 is only reasonable in my opinion. It will want a cabin filter but get it yourself and fit it as it is 2 minutes job. The brake fluid is fiddley so the £32.50 clare has quoted is reasonable. If the latter isn't included in the £260, negotiate it in.

Regards

[Manxrav]

Anchorman, will try and fill you in a bit more clearly

part 1(of invoice)

2year service £130.00

Brake fluid change £ 32.50

Reset tpms no charge

Total£162.50

part2(of invoice)

Gskt drain plug 0.83

Brake cleaner 2.21

Air filter 18.50

Pollen filter 13.61

Oil filter kit 8.17

Brake fluid 8.92

Cap bleeder PLU (4) 4.24

Engine oil 17.95

Engine oil (2) 9.28

Screen wash 1.14

wiper rubber 3.35

Total £88.20

Part 3

Engine flush 11.90

service kit and consumables 3.99

Spirax gear oil 22.47

Total £38.36

Total goods £ 289.06

Vat 17.5% 50.59

Invoice total £339.65

Hope this explains a bit better-above is how it is laid out on invoice

Clare

[Manxrav]

Just as a footnote to the servicing, it is 2 weeks today since I had it done. Was driving into Douglas this morning and low and behold I got a beep on the dash looked down and to my amazement it said "oil maint now". Seeing as I was near to main dealer I called into seek advice. technician had a look- tried to reset thru dash wouldn,t respond so had to be put on computer to do the business.Touch wood all is OK now

Question- what would have caused the warning light to come on?

Clare

[shcm]

Question- what would have caused the warning light to come on?

Clare

I expect they forgot to reset the oil reminder, as part of the service. Interesting that trying to reset via the dash didn't work. The procedure is supposed to be:

Set the multi-information display to TRIP A.

Turn the ignition switch off.

Press and hold the ODO / TRIP switch, and turn the ignition switch on.

After turning the ignition switch on, keep holding the switch for at least 5 seconds.

[duncerduncs]

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I'm close to my 20k service too!

Having rang around various dealers, I've had an interesting response... (all prices include brake fluid change)

Henley £247

Bracknell £249

Reading £294

Basingstoke £294

Oxford £294

(Bracknell and Reading are part of one franchise, Basingstoke and Oxford are part of another)

It was interesting that both Basingstoke and Oxford made it clear that the cost was for all oils and filters, including 2 gear box oils (I'm still looking for the second gear box... ) where as the others said "all inclusive" (will they charge me extra on the day?)

I was wondering what everyone else thinks about the prices?

[drskeptical]

Hi

I have just joined this forum.

I have just booked my RAV 4 in for it's 20k service next Monday 25th. I have been quoted £220.00 with 10% discount for booking on line. A pointless excersie as they phoned me up 2 minutes after I booked to confirm all details over the phone.

Any way, my question.

Why do they have to change the brake fluid after 20000 miles?

When I was a young chap many moons ago, I had a job in a garage, I had to rush out when the bell rang to serve petrol to the customer, clean their windscreen and offer to check their engine oil.

The garage service department, never, ever, changed brake fluid unless there was a problem with the brake system or the customer complaind of spongy brakes.

[shcm]

Any way, my question.

Why do they have to change the brake fluid after 20000 miles?

wikipedia gives a reasonable explanation why:

Click - Brake Fluid

IMHO after the steering, the braking system is the next most important system on the vehicle. Better to be safe than sorry.

Of course, when they/we get around to doing "Brake by Wire" (no fluid, just electronically controlled actuators), then you won't have to change the fluid :D. Then I will walk

Alpha, Beta or non-ionising by the way?

No doubt an expert will be along to chip in soon.

Cheers

[anchorman]

I remember the old days of not changing the fluid and I can also remember sediment and other contaminants in the reservoir - a real mess. It was really neglect and those days had to stop. However, as with most things, they have gone over the top and changing the brake fluid has become something of an obsession. It is a way of making money and has gone to the other extreme. It could be left rather longer than it is but if you are going to get technical you could measure some degredation of the fluid over 2 years. You could also measure a similar level of degredation of the engine oil after 500 miles.

The irritating thing is that firstly, if it needs to be changed at 2 years why isn't it included in the service cost? Secondly I know of few places that will change it properly so the only person I trust to do it is me.

It will be done at 2 years to uphold the warranty obligation but it may not get done at the following 2nd year. Another thing while I'm having a rant. The book says categorically DOT3 fluid must be used. Of all the variants explained by wikipedia, it has the highest lubricity and is especially kind to rubber components. When I tried to buy it from Toyota all I could get was DOT5.1 - what is going on here? Once again my regular trips to the USA saved the day and I brought 2 quart bottles back in my suitcase for about $3.50 each.

[drskeptical]

I remember the old days of not changing the fluid and I can also remember sediment and other contaminants in the reservoir - a real mess. It was really neglect and those days had to stop.

[drskeptical]

I remember the old days of not changing the fluid and I can also remember sediment and other contaminants in the reservoir - a real mess. It was really neglect and those days had to stop.

Hello

Thank you for the reply and information.

Yes the good old days and change. I recall change when a customer pulled up in his Jag. Told me to "put £5.00 worth in both tanks will you laddy", "sorry sir we can oly sell in whole gallons or 1/2 gallons"

It is intresting that the brake fluid should be changed every 2 years, my RAV 4 is only 14 months old I wonder if they will try to make me change it on this service. If so I will have to run with them to keep the warranty obligation.

Once again thank you for the reply

[bothwell_buyer]

Changing brake fluid at 20,000 miles is quite funny - irrespective of how the car is used and what temperatures the fluid is put through. Wur Punto hasn't enjoyed a brake fluid change nor will it for a wee while yet. It does about 12 miles max a day, so we concentrate on changing the oil as it never reaches working temperature. Its hardly ever out of 2nd gear either so I don't think the gearbox oil has been done!!

It kills me about the screenwash - the T dealer always charged me for this on both the RAV and the previa - so i topped the bottles right up and still got charged - the thing that finished my relationship with Toyota dealers!

Wait til you get to 40,000 miles and they will tell you that the discs need replaced......

The old brake fluid used to absorb water/moisture from memory - whereas I don't think the modern stuff is quite as bad. When that happened the fluid could boil thus losing brake efficiency, but I don't think that applies anymore. certainly before I replaced the brakes on my RAV, I hadn't had problems with the fluid. Course, maybe thats why I need to pump the brakes of my LR?? :unsure:

[anchorman]

Yes the term is "hygroscopic".

I think it is still capable but lets keep things in balance - we are talking about fractions of a percent in humid conditions and somewhat less with a small reservoir cap fitted.

Newer callipers transfer very little heat to the fluid so that is less of a problem these days. Still, more important is that it doesn't allow any corrosion to build up inside such places as the ABS unit and for that reason I accept it has to be changed if not quite so frequently. Those old 4 pot things that you had on your old jag were the worst. They also had those silly piston seals that only kept the dirt out when the piston was fully retracted so they would sieze in no time.

Ah, the good old days!

The new callipers we have on our RAVs have a bridge with no fluid on the outer side and a deep piston with fluid well back away from the pad. The piston is also hollow so there is very little contact area for heat transfer. It is very possible with a loaded vehicle and heavy braking to get disc temperatures of 700 - 800 degC (discs glowing yellow) and the piston will be less than 100 degC. At Ferodo all premium (red and silver box) pads have a thermal underlayer. This is a layer of material where the friction material meets the backplate and is a thermal barrier to reduce heat transfer. The genuine Toyota pad is several times better specified than anything you can buy from other sources. We tried for years to match them but by the time we came anywhere near (and I stress not matched) they were so expensive nobody would buy them. For anybody that doubts that the more tangible advantages are visible. Just peer through the wheels and look how good the discs are. And when did you last hear them squeal?

The moral of the story is; buy your pads off kingo (no not commisioned just stating facts).

Friction material lesson over!

[IanXT4]

On the subject of "Bleeding Brakes"

Does anyone know if there are special ABS procedures to follow on the RAV (Specifically the 4.2) when bleeding brakes ?

I have heard that some cars require the ABS/ECU to be placed in a special mode during the bleed cycle, otherwise the ABS management unit detects low pressure and places itself in failure mode.

Can anyone clarify how you bleed RAV brakes ?

Many thanks

Ian

[dave.m]

The moral of the story is; buy your pads off kingo (no not commisioned just stating facts).

Friction material lesson over!

I'll second that, my 4.2 was the only car I've ever had (and there have been a few) that I've never used alloy wheel

cleaner on, only soapy water. Dont know the make up of the pads, but they must be bloody good.

[anchorman]

On the subject of "Bleeding Brakes"

Does anyone know if there are special ABS procedures to follow on the RAV (Specifically the 4.2) when bleeding brakes ?

I have heard that some cars require the ABS/ECU to be placed in a special mode during the bleed cycle, otherwise the ABS management unit detects low pressure and places itself in failure mode.

Can anyone clarify how you bleed RAV brakes ?

Many thanks

Ian

For the 4.2 the manuals don't specify anything special. I have bled dozens of systems with ABS and had no problems. However, the 4.3 manual describes a process of using the ABS pump remotely from the DLC plug to purge air from the system if any difficulties arise.

The new fluid will be clearer than the old and most garages just pump fluid through until it runs clear without introducing air into the system. Leave the ignition off during the process.