Low Clutch Bite Point

[RedVerso]

Hi - this is my first post so here goes -

I've just bought a nice red 55 plate Avensis Verso D-4D. Very happy with it, seems much more sensible in layout and size than other MPV's I tried.

In the first few days driving the car I felt that the clutch bite point was a little (very!) low. You could drive it OK, but sometimes first and second gear were difficult to select cleanly on the down change unless you really concentrated on pushing the clutch all the way to the floor.

I took the car back and the dealer agreed with me and replaced the clutch (and flywheel!) under warranty. I've just collected the car and, although the clutch now feels lighter in operation, it still bites very near the floor. The problem with first and second is still there.

Before I go back and whinge I thought that I would check on the forum...where does your clutch bite? Do all diesel verso's have the same problem?

Any help would be much appreciated. :)

[RedVerso]

I would really appreciate it if someone out there who has an Avensis Verso could just let me know how far (roughly) off the floor the clutch pedal is when the clutch bites?

I don't have another example to compare it with and I'm sure something is not right!

Thanks.

[Avensis Verso D-4D'03 (DK)]

I would really appreciate it if someone out there who has an Avensis Verso could just let me know how far (roughly) off the floor the clutch pedal is when the clutch bites?

I don't have another example to compare it with and I'm sure something is not right!

Thanks.

I have exactly the same problem with mine. Clutch bites when the pedal is just touching the mat. I am not so much into car-repairs yet, but I would think that it could be adjusted quite easily. I just have to get my lazy ***** in gear and investigate the matter :-)

[cmia]

the clutch is hydralic...

so if its biting really low. I am not sure what the fix is!

[pt_verso-ipsum]

Hi - this is my first post so here goes -

I've just bought a nice red 55 plate Avensis Verso D-4D. Very happy with it, seems much more sensible in layout and size than other MPV's I tried.

In the first few days driving the car I felt that the clutch bite point was a little (very!) low. You could drive it OK, but sometimes first and second gear were difficult to select cleanly on the down change unless you really concentrated on pushing the clutch all the way to the floor.

I took the car back and the dealer agreed with me and replaced the clutch (and flywheel!) under warranty. I've just collected the car and, although the clutch now feels lighter in operation, it still bites very near the floor. The problem with first and second is still there.

Before I go back and whinge I thought that I would check on the forum...where does your clutch bite? Do all diesel verso's have the same problem?

Any help would be much appreciated. :)

The cluth pedal system is hydraulic, which has automatic regulation, but it still can be checked and "fine tuned", as any other hydraulic system is has oil, pump, valves... and potencial malfunctions by leakage or/and air intake on the line. But I supose it breaks Ok, so you haven't mention it (the oil of the cluth system is the same of the break oil, they share functions).

A possible malfunction on the "cluth pump" can cause that kind of problem, or air on the line... does it changes the bit point whenever the cluth is "hot" or could ? If not, it might be the pump (this calls pump, but it actually just subtitutes the mechanical pedal action, multiplying it)

Nevertheless, this model is very unique, and if someone is used to ride on other MPV's might strange this "sportive" atitude of the Avensis Verso, which allows fast gear changes and car alike handling.

[t-spiritpete]

Hi - this is my first post so here goes -

I've just bought a nice red 55 plate Avensis Verso D-4D. Very happy with it, seems much more sensible in layout and size than other MPV's I tried.

In the first few days driving the car I felt that the clutch bite point was a little (very!) low. You could drive it OK, but sometimes first and second gear were difficult to select cleanly on the down change unless you really concentrated on pushing the clutch all the way to the floor.

I took the car back and the dealer agreed with me and replaced the clutch (and flywheel!) under warranty. I've just collected the car and, although the clutch now feels lighter in operation, it still bites very near the floor. The problem with first and second is still there.

Before I go back and whinge I thought that I would check on the forum...where does your clutch bite? Do all diesel verso's have the same problem?

Any help would be much appreciated. :)

The cluth pedal system is hydraulic, which has automatic regulation, but it still can be checked and "fine tuned", as any other hydraulic system is has oil, pump, valves... and potencial malfunctions by leakage or/and air intake on the line. But I supose it breaks Ok, so you haven't mention it (the oil of the cluth system is the same of the break oil, they share functions).

A possible malfunction on the "cluth pump" can cause that kind of problem, or air on the line... does it changes the bit point whenever the cluth is "hot" or could ? If not, it might be the pump (this calls pump, but it actually just subtitutes the mechanical pedal action, multiplying it)

Nevertheless, this model is very unique, and if someone is used to ride on other MPV's might strange this "sportive" atitude of the Avensis Verso, which allows fast gear changes and car alike handling.

My 2007 2.2 D4D T-Spirit is very much the same, no problem with gears but it does start to bite about an inch off the mat, different than most cars but maybe this is normal with an Avensis ... hopefully!!

Regards Pete.

[Q.S.]

Hi - this is my first post so here goes -

I've just bought a nice red 55 plate Avensis Verso D-4D. Very happy with it, seems much more sensible in layout and size than other MPV's I tried.

In the first few days driving the car I felt that the clutch bite point was a little (very!) low. You could drive it OK, but sometimes first and second gear were difficult to select cleanly on the down change unless you really concentrated on pushing the clutch all the way to the floor.

I took the car back and the dealer agreed with me and replaced the clutch (and flywheel!) under warranty. I've just collected the car and, although the clutch now feels lighter in operation, it still bites very near the floor. The problem with first and second is still there.

Before I go back and whinge I thought that I would check on the forum...where does your clutch bite? Do all diesel verso's have the same problem?

Any help would be much appreciated. :)

The cluth pedal system is hydraulic, which has automatic regulation, but it still can be checked and "fine tuned", as any other hydraulic system is has oil, pump, valves... and potencial malfunctions by leakage or/and air intake on the line. But I supose it breaks Ok, so you haven't mention it (the oil of the cluth system is the same of the break oil, they share functions).

A possible malfunction on the "cluth pump" can cause that kind of problem, or air on the line... does it changes the bit point whenever the cluth is "hot" or could ? If not, it might be the pump (this calls pump, but it actually just subtitutes the mechanical pedal action, multiplying it)

Nevertheless, this model is very unique, and if someone is used to ride on other MPV's might strange this "sportive" atitude of the Avensis Verso, which allows fast gear changes and car alike handling.

My 2007 2.2 D4D T-Spirit is very much the same, no problem with gears but it does start to bite about an inch off the mat, different than most cars but maybe this is normal with an Avensis ... hopefully!!

Regards Pete.

Sounds like a weak hydraulic circuit, (may be 'built in' from factory) it isn't the case on my earlier (2002) avensis. No problems at all with the clutch clearing or bite point.

[MV_MAN]

Hi - this is my first post so here goes -

I've just bought a nice red 55 plate Avensis Verso D-4D. Very happy with it, seems much more sensible in layout and size than other MPV's I tried.

In the first few days driving the car I felt that the clutch bite point was a little (very!) low. You could drive it OK, but sometimes first and second gear were difficult to select cleanly on the down change unless you really concentrated on pushing the clutch all the way to the floor.

I took the car back and the dealer agreed with me and replaced the clutch (and flywheel!) under warranty. I've just collected the car and, although the clutch now feels lighter in operation, it still bites very near the floor. The problem with first and second is still there.

Before I go back and whinge I thought that I would check on the forum...where does your clutch bite? Do all diesel verso's have the same problem?

Any help would be much appreciated. :)

Hello,

I know this was a while ago, did the dealer solve the problem? I've had exactly the same issue and Clutch has been changed but can't get over the 2nd gear stiff from cold, I can force it in but it then crunches and you hear the teeth meshing as it goes in so I'm afraid of damaging the gearbox.

Mine is still under warranty fortunately but they can't seem to see a problem but there clearly is.

Would be interested to know if you sorted it.

Thanks!

[rds2200]

Hi All

Talking from experience if you are having problems with the second gear if this, happens just when the car is cold and the problem seems to disapear when the car is hot then, Toyota has put the wrong gear oil, it has happen to me, when this happened because the oil is too thick then it makes it harder for the oil to move,after a while the clutch started to bite at the end and if you done the bitting point as the teach you in driving school the cluch stays on the floor until you place your foot underneath and pull it up, this is the clutch master cylinder, this is what toyota has told me that they have replaced under warranty.

But also bear in mind that if there is no oil in the clutch then the clutch will bite early this has happened to me on a peugeot car it might be the same.

But be questionning the oil in the gear box i had the area manager of toyota looking at my car several times, if under warranty give them grief so they can sort it out.

Hope this helps!!!!

[Aamir2892]

Yh mines the same with an inch off the floor the clutch starts to bite. It's no fault I think all the avensis's are like that.

[RedVerso]

Just an update on this for anyone who is looking for an answer.  The garage who sold me the car (main dealer) simply replaced the clutch and flywheel under warranty saying there was no adjustment at the pedal.  This made no difference at all.  Once out of warranty the car was serviced by a local mechanic I mentioned the issue to him and sure enough he found a way to adjust the pedal mechanism (not the hydraulics) and the clutch now bites at what I consider to be a normal position.  100,000 miles later all is good and it's still on the same clutch.

[frankie406]

How did he adjust the pedal? 

[RedVerso]

I'll ask him next time I see him and post again.  Car is due for a service shortly so I'll see if I can take a picture as well.

[frankie406]

Yeah would be great! Cheers

[TomdeGuerre]

The push rod for the clutch master cylinder is adjustable by means of the threaded portion

 

 

[Konrad C]

1 hour ago, TomdeGuerre said:

The push rod for the clutch master cylinder is adjustable by means of the threaded portion

 

 

Great info Tom. I knew from my Mk1 Avensis that there are the two adjustments - pedal height and free play. The amount of play is important, because if adjusted too much to remove any play could leave the clutch partial engaged, causing slip and more critically wear. Too much play will result in a loose pedal, not fully dis-engaged and cause difficult gear selection. 

I would never touch the clutch adjustment on my Mk3, as it is linked with the EPB. 

Same with height adjustment, leave unless there has been a change of component. 

[uber]

On 8/20/2016 at 11:55 AM, TomdeGuerre said:

The push rod for the clutch master cylinder is adjustable by means of the threaded portion

 

 

I've got Yaris 2007 and I can't find the adjust point (left part in the figure bellow). Does someone know a trick how to adjust this kind of cylinder. It is clear how to do this for the master cylinder like in the right part of the figure.