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Service Parts


djezd
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Hi,

I just had a bit of a search using the search function and did not find the answers i was looking for.

Where are good places to get toyota service type parts from; I have a bmw and was expecting something like gsfcarparts.com or eurocarparts.com for our new toyota, but have had no joy googling various permutations of toyota car parts etc etc.

With my aged bmw i have found that Iridium plugs and mobile 1 0-40 fully synthetic oil improved my bmw's mpgs by about 1 and 5% respectively. since mobile 1 from costco is £23 for 4L and a 1.0L yaris needs 3.5ishL then it seems well worth going down this route. the beauty of the Iridium plugs is that they are good for 40-60kmiles so you open the cylinders only once every 5-6 years...thus avoiding dropping particles into the cyclinders, via the sparkplug hole. plus you don't suffer plug performance tail off 6 times which = 6 phases of declining fuel economy.

So i was wondering what others have done with respect to these tweaks on their Yari?

Also top tips for the parts would be very handy too.

I noticed that the yaris 1.0 l has a compression ratio of 10.0:1 this according to car bible would suggest that higher octane fuel would be a better match for the compression ratio, as presumably there are anti-knock sensors that will not be working so hard.

What is the received wisdom about running vpower 99 octane or other higher octane vs 95 octane? does it makes no difference, it makes no performance difference but better economy or it's worse because you've spent more for nothing. Again the bmw i have loses out massively, both performance and economy, if i run it on 95...but the car handbook say 98 octane, and compression ratio of 9.8:1, and i guess it is tuned to that octane value and does not have antiknock sensors, so genuinely needs it. I am aware of fifthgears test a couple of seasons back...but the Yaris has a 'world engine', where in japan they have 101 octane and in the usa they have 87, so it makes sense that they make 1 engines that can taste the difference, via antiknock sensors...or am i expecting too much here.

Cheers for any input!

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Hi,

I just had a bit of a search using the search function and did not find the answers i was looking for.

Where are good places to get toyota service type parts from; I have a bmw and was expecting something like gsfcarparts.com or eurocarparts.com for our new toyota, but have had no joy googling various permutations of toyota car parts etc etc.

With my aged bmw i have found that iridium plugs and mobile 1 0-40 fully synthetic oil improved my bmw's mpgs by about 1 and 5% respectively. since mobile 1 from costco is £23 for 4L and a 1.0L yaris needs 3.5ishL then it seems well worth going down this route. the beauty of the iridium plugs is that they are good for 40-60kmiles so you open the cylinders only once every 5-6 years...thus avoiding dropping particles into the cyclinders, via the sparkplug hole. plus you don't suffer plug performance tail off 6 times which = 6 phases of declining fuel economy.

So i was wondering what others have done with respect to these tweaks on their Yari?

Also top tips for the parts would be very handy too.

I noticed that the yaris 1.0 l has a compression ratio of 10.0:1 this according to car bible would suggest that higher octane fuel would be a better match for the compression ratio, as presumably there are anti-knock sensors that will not be working so hard.

What is the received wisdom about running vpower 99 octane or other higher octane vs 95 octane? does it makes no difference, it makes no performance difference but better economy or it's worse because you've spent more for nothing. Again the bmw i have loses out massively, both performance and economy, if i run it on 95...but the car handbook say 98 octane, and compression ratio of 9.8:1, and i guess it is tuned to that octane value and does not have antiknock sensors, so genuinely needs it. I am aware of fifthgears test a couple of seasons back...but the Yaris has a 'world engine', where in japan they have 101 octane and in the usa they have 87, so it makes sense that they make 1 engines that can taste the difference, via antiknock sensors...or am i expecting too much here.

Cheers for any input!

I hope this is an early April fools joke? If not, you seriously need to get out more!!

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Hi,

I just had a bit of a search using the search function and did not find the answers i was looking for.

Where are good places to get toyota service type parts from; I have a bmw and was expecting something like gsfcarparts.com or eurocarparts.com for our new toyota, but have had no joy googling various permutations of toyota car parts etc etc.

With my aged bmw i have found that iridium plugs and mobile 1 0-40 fully synthetic oil improved my bmw's mpgs by about 1 and 5% respectively. since mobile 1 from costco is £23 for 4L and a 1.0L yaris needs 3.5ishL then it seems well worth going down this route. the beauty of the iridium plugs is that they are good for 40-60kmiles so you open the cylinders only once every 5-6 years...thus avoiding dropping particles into the cyclinders, via the sparkplug hole. plus you don't suffer plug performance tail off 6 times which = 6 phases of declining fuel economy.

So i was wondering what others have done with respect to these tweaks on their Yari?

Also top tips for the parts would be very handy too.

I noticed that the yaris 1.0 l has a compression ratio of 10.0:1 this according to car bible would suggest that higher octane fuel would be a better match for the compression ratio, as presumably there are anti-knock sensors that will not be working so hard.

What is the received wisdom about running vpower 99 octane or other higher octane vs 95 octane? does it makes no difference, it makes no performance difference but better economy or it's worse because you've spent more for nothing. Again the bmw i have loses out massively, both performance and economy, if i run it on 95...but the car handbook say 98 octane, and compression ratio of 9.8:1, and i guess it is tuned to that octane value and does not have antiknock sensors, so genuinely needs it. I am aware of fifthgears test a couple of seasons back...but the Yaris has a 'world engine', where in japan they have 101 octane and in the usa they have 87, so it makes sense that they make 1 engines that can taste the difference, via antiknock sensors...or am i expecting too much here.

Cheers for any input!

The whole point of an economic car is that you can use the base petrol, it is fine in the Yaris!

Haven't seen any cheap spares supliers since I owned the car, never needed them.

Plugs last for years anyway, service intervals quite far apart, no valve adjustment, just oil and filter, airfilter, (K&N panel filter a good buy), aircon filter, brake fluid. Most of these you can get anywhere. I beleive Toyota use either synthetic or semi-synthetic oil anyway.

Compared to BMW, servicing is probably cheap enough to go to main dealer and get a stamped up book!

Driven well, brake pads last 30-40,000 miles. You may find a Yaris is just a little slower than a beemer, although most of them (BMW's) are driven by twits, present company aside, who drive too fast when not needed, so I just catch up and often pass by driving better and reading the road, rather than panicking and being on-off brakes/gas, whilst weaving all over the road!

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OK

The whole point of having a economical car is to liberate as much cash to do other things i.e. get out. so if the application of knowledge can further that then i'm up for it.

by the way 0-40 oil will liberate way more power and will not increase your insurance premium compared to fitting a high flow panel filters and low pressure back boxes, which are considered a performance enhancing product.

http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

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The effect on performance of 0w 40 oil would not be noticeable at the pedal. It would help in fuel consumption, however the price of 0w 40 is extortionate against a good quality 5w 30 semi synthetic. It's a personal choice of course but in a 1.0 Ltr engine, I know what oil I would (and do) use

Kingo :thumbsup:

PS We do service kits for all Toyota's PM me your vehicle details for a price delivered to your door (Excluding oil- We cant post oil)

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The effect on performance of 0w 40 oil would not be noticeable at the pedal. It would help in fuel consumption, however the price of 0w 40 is extortionate against a good quality 5w 30 semi synthetic. It's a personal choice of course but in a 1.0 Ltr engine, I know what oil I would (and do) use

Kingo :thumbsup:

If you read above I said that 4L of 0-40W from costco is £19.99+VAT =£23.49 (i see that Halfords charge ~£45...but you have the internet so try searching for a lower price from an online retailer...it is quite cheap in French supermarkets too).

Anyway to say it is extortionate particularly since it will improve your mpg is a little bit ignorant. In fact if YOU actually do the maths before passing comment you'll probably discover that by using this oil you would actually save money over the service interval. Mobil 0-40 is much more stable towards decomposition than either mineral or part synthetic nonsense. Secondly the difference in price of one of the best oil money can buy and cheap ***** that will thicken and coat the inside of you engine slowly increasing friction thus increasing fuel consumption, is tiny compared to friday night boozing, have 8 pints instead of 10 =£6 left of to make the difference between the average and the best.

A third point, small engines have a higher percent of the available energy going into frictional loses, so it makes more sense to try to minimise friction in smaller engines than large ones. presumably this is why toyota have release the new yaris with a three cylinder engine, 25% less piston drag than the older 4 cylinder one.

When i changed the oil in a 15 year old clio diesel with 5-40 Halfords fully synthetic (10L for £30) I could feel the difference and so could my girlfriend. And she certainly noticed an improvement in mpg to better than she'd ever seen it achieve too. I was not a costco member at that point.

This is the last i'll say on this matter as i'm only trying to enlighten you. And like kingo said it is personal choice but question authority and do the sums yourself.

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Also need to consider top-ups between services as some Toyota engines burn 0W-40. Can burn up to 1L ever 1000 miles.

Needless to say I use 10W-40 & does not burn any.

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im pretty sure my owners manual says to use 5w-30?? i do do oil changes myself but i have to check each time before i do it cos i always forget lol

i have heard people saying that super can get your slightly better economy btw, give it a try

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OK

The whole point of having a economical car is to liberate as much cash to do other things i.e. get out. so if the application of knowledge can further that then i'm up for it.

by the way 0-40 oil will liberate way more power and will not increase your insurance premium compared to fitting a high flow panel filters and low pressure back boxes, which are considered a performance enhancing product.

http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

back boxes aside, panel filters make NO difference to insurance. A fully fitted aftermarket air filter system may but not a panel filter. That just replaces the orig and does a better job, whilst never usually needing replacing, hence saving money too, in the long term! Few more mpg too, along with slightly better throttle response/power.

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im pretty sure my owners manual says to use 5w-30?? i do do oil changes myself but i have to check each time before i do it cos i always forget lol

i have heard people saying that super can get your slightly better economy btw, give it a try

Even Toyota Dealers now use 10W/40 opposed to 0W/30 due to oil consumption issues. I would rather lose 1-2 mpg & save on expensive oil top-ups.

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