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Auris Double Din Facia Kit


neilvr
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Hy AlexC! This OK! I know what was the problem...i nothing write in forum and so only visitor...and visitor no view the pic... :blink:

I hope understand me :rolleyes:

Yes I do... Good to hear that everything works fine now!

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Got my DNX-5220 installed today.

Will add some photos soon!

Also have some updates

concerning audio system...

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when you guys are installing this kenwood dnx5220 unit in your vehicles. buy a usb cable with a mini connector and install that one too. there is an mini usb connector at the back of the unit. bring that cable together with the kenwood usb cable (and ipod if in use) to your glovebox so when you want to update or use garmin's WebUpdater you don't have to remove your head unit!

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when you guys are installing this kenwood dnx5220 unit in your vehicles. buy a usb cable with a mini connector and install that one too. there is an mini usb connector at the back of the unit. bring that cable together with the kenwood usb cable (and ipod if in use) to your glovebox so when you want to update or use garmin's WebUpdater you don't have to remove your head unit!

I do all my garmin and kenwood updates via cd or dvd. It works just as well.

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just a little adjustment for the how to install start-up screen.

at point 2

- holding both SRC+EJECT and while holding it press the RESET button

if you press the SRC button first and then the EJECT button the unit will just go off.

better is:

- holding both EJECT+SRC and while holding it press the RESET button

;)

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I do all my garmin and kenwood updates via cd or dvd. It works just as well.

when using the WebUpdater you can also update the voices and the tmc module. the tmc is now on version 4.80. you can also add extra languages if needed.

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  • 3 months later...
Nearly completing my single-din installation :D

15qs1lx.jpg

Hi there, any further pics or guides with this?

Cheers

John

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  • 3 months later...

Bump.

Gonna be doing a single DIN installation when mine arrives, anyone got pics?

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Bump.

Gonna be doing a single DIN installation when mine arrives, anyone got pics?

Did you read this topic? It may be useful if you wish to find some pics... There's

plenty of them at the 1st page of the topic :rolleyes:

Best regards, Alex

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Yes but thats an Austrailian one that is apparently different, also Ive also got a silver stereo and not so keen on the silver, black silver look.

Anyone got other pictures of silver single DIN head units installed?

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20t1af4.jpg

There u go, i think i have all the pictures necessary for a guide, i might make one once i have enough time.

Sorry if it's unsharp, i made it in a rush just for you ;)

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  • 1 month later...

Just for future reference for anyone the Autoleads part numbers are

DFP-11-12 for the fascia adapter (Google search link http://www.google.co.uk/search?source=ig&a...amp;meta=lr%3D)

and

PC2-17-4 for the wiring adapter (Google again http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&r...arch&meta=)

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

Why not try CT23TY06 from Connects2 www.connects2.com, they also have a controller to work steering wheel radio controls

Hope this helps

Has anyone actually removed the UK standard head unit to see if it is Double DIN or not?? I cannot find a facia adapter anywhere for the Auris. Rumours suggest it is actually single DIN behind the existing facia???

Gareth

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  • 8 months later...

I used the wiring adaptor kit CTSTY001 also from Connects2 to fit my JVC KW-NT1.

Unit fits pretty well but unit is not getting a speed pulse or as I menetioned in another thread hand brake on or reverese gear engaged.

The leaflet with the CTSTY001 mentions

A - Pink Wire = Speed Pulse

B - Green Wire = Park Brake

C - Purple/White = Reverse

D - Yellow/Black = Phone Mute

E - Pink/Black = Phone Mute

It seems to show them going to or perhaps coming from the black box that comes with the kit however no wire tails exist from the box connector with these colours.

BTW

The JVC KW-NT1 has the crappiest route planning logic I have seen in years.

I have used just about every major brand of GPS and this one plans the most stupid "b" road or single track based routes ever.

Otherwise it is a great unit and does everything I wanted other than with no speed pulse when you enter a tunnel motion stops and it does not even assume you are still moving at the same speed.

Thus why I would like to find the speed pulse.

Help would be apreciated.

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Tip of the day...

Do not drop any of the 10mm bolts that hold the radio in place.

Did it once and managed to get it back with a tape measure with magnetic end.

This time I cannot even see where the bolt landed.

Back to the problem of the speed pulse.

Looking under the dash I can see an ISO connector which may or may not just be clipped in place doing nothing.

connector.jpg

IMG_0441.jpg

It is below the left vent outlet and is on the round tube and looks like it is 22 connections.

Is this the connector for the speed pulse or something else e.g. Air Bags?

And if the connector I need, does anyone sell a lead that plugs into it?

Edit

I Got The Bolt Back :)

IMG_0443.jpg

A rear view of the first piece of trim you have to remove to gain access to the radio.

This shot helps identify where the trim is actually secured and thus the direction of force required to get it off.

IMG_0412.jpg

HELP!

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TomTom TNS410

Seems the above will soon be on offer as an option from Toyota with a guide on how to tear your car apart to fit it at http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com/legacy/To...20001_904_0.pdf

However only 4.3" screen and not sure of all features.

Even looking at the guide I am still not sure where the wire goes or if I have to remove the complete dash!

EDIT:

Well have read the guide in more detail....

Centre area has to come out to fit radio - ok

Centre to hand brake has to come out to get parking brake signal :(

Glove box has to come out to get reversing signal :(

Instrument Cluster has to come out for speed signal :(

GROAN :(

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If you decide to buy a T2, the most annoying thing is nonexistence of rear speakers; T2 has 4 spks, all installed in front doors, unlike new (similarT2) corolla sedan that has 2 in front doors and another 2 in the rear.

But this is not a such a big problem, you can easily install spks in rear doors; first time remove the door covers, then you will see, instead of spks, covers.

You can remove those covers with a 6mm drill, "cutting" the rivets then you put the new spks, fixing them with new rivets.

Another way to intall spks (you need 13cm diameter standard Speakers, eg.explode) is putting them into the covers; with a saw cut the cover's diaphragm and fix the spk with 4 screws.

Then, you have to connect the spk to socket that you find it inside the "B" pillar. The spks wires are ending in those sockets, you need to continue wiring from sockets to spks; in order to do this you need to "plant" pins inside the plugs (you can recuperate the pins from used electronics). Connect the new wires to spks, then reinstall the door covers. Be careful observing polarity of spks. In pillar sockets you will find 3 free wires/socket, only 2 can be used for a spk, for the left side use B - BR (colour)=(RL+) , Y - BR=(RL-) , for right side R - BR=(RR+) and W - BR=(RR-).

Finally turn on the HU, and set FADER to rear, R2 or R3 and enjoy the music! The sound is different than before.

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  • 1 month later...

I have lags when I adjust the volume level using my steering wheel controls. Let's say if I want it to go from 10 to 14, when I had original HeadUnit I pressed the volume button and kept it pressed until I reached volume level I wanted. With Kenwood HeadUnit if I keep the button pressed and then release it, volume just continues going up for some time after I've released the button. The unit does not respond to pressing/releasing the button as well as it did with original HeadUnit. So I have to make short clicks and adjust my volume up/down one click by one. If I want my volume from 10 to 14 I have to make 4 short clicks.

Is that sort of lagging normal after changing original HeadUnit to aftermarket one? I have Kenwood DNX-5220.

Best regards, Alex

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  • 1 month later...

I have installed Pioneer AVIC-F900BT and I do not have major lag in steering wheel controls, there is a lag but it's very small. After the update (3.0) to my player, there's also a possibility to change radio presets so that really completed the whole project. Now the steering wheel controls work 100% like the original controls. The update makes the player exactly the same as AVIC-F910BT.

My friend also has Kenwood (DNX-8220) in his Audi and the lag is pretty much the same compared to your player. So it has to be the adapter which just isn't as good as the adapter for Pioneer players. Did you have to adjust the adapter after the installation? Like "teach" the controls to it?

Pioneer adapters do not have the option to edit controls, I've heard that there is adapters for Kenwood which can be modified.

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I did not make the installation by myself, so I don't know about if it's possible to adjust it. Will have to ask about my adapter from some reseller, I think they should know.

Glad to hear that I'm not the only one. So probably there's nothing wrong with the adapter (eg. it's not broken). Thanks for your help.

Best regards, Alex

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