D4d Engine Fault

[Bono Estente]

well what a way to pass an evening reading all the above!!!

my 2002 Rav4 D4d turbo finally gave up the fight yesterday. I remember posting on here a while back about turbo whine and became familiar with what goes on.

One thing that my problem has not done is run up the engine light and produce fault codes!!!

My turbo, apart from becoming noisier, started to weep oil from its casing, to the point that the back area of the engine is now wet and black, and following a run to Dublin the other day I have oil spots on the rear door and the tow hitch is also wet with oil. I'm keeping the oil level topped up don't worry.

Then yesterday I started her up from cold and whilst it will gently rev there is no turbo boost at all now. Will check the actuator for free play but suspect that either the variable vains are jammed or the main impeller is now so badly worn its jammed itself.

Now getting big puff of smoke(not black, rather grey blue) when starting and driving with very gentle acceleration but no turbo boost at all.

Its our only car so im really in a jam now, MTC turbo in Middleton cork are quoting e400 to regenerate the turbo, over two days, which doesn't sound too bad, and they specify no cheap Chinese ebay parts are used. Mine is a Garrett Turbo which I hear is the better type, but before I commit I just wanted to run this past our resident experts...

BTW since doing the waterpump in -1c last year (remember me) I had a thrust bearing failure with the clutch on holiday in Wexford. Luckily a mates garage in New Ross allowed me to work on her with his mechanic to drop the gearbox and transfer box as one unit and fit a new clutch assembly. I'm getting very intimate with our Betty these days!!!

Might be a bit late now, but there are turbo repair kits on eBay for the Rav4 turbo.....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Rav-4-GT1749V-721164-Complete-Turbo-Turbocharger-rebuild-Repair-kit-/121346367426?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c40ce9fc2

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-D4D-Turbo-rebuild-repair-kit-previa-picnic-/390288389237?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5adf003475

[Loobs]

Drove it to Cambridge and back and it performed faultlessly. Went to Portsmouth yesterday and lots of hesitations, esp coming off roundabouts. The turbo is making some strange noises and if the revs are borderline, boy does that car vibrate (is this a common thing?).

I spoke to the warranty people and there was a query about the warranty registration which led to a call to the selling dealer. They told me that they had replaced the SCV's whilst they had it. Sort of narrows it down and in a lot of ways good news for me.

The warranty company will want the turbo sent off somewhere of their choosing for evaluation/testing but once satisfied, they will cover the repair cost. We shall see. I'm sure we will get there.

[galloot]

I cant seem to get any help on this "Forum" for my Corolla verso d4d 2002.I had starting problems gradually got worse in good weather.No warning lights even when bumped or jumped.I have feeling it was Alternator but Battery light never comes on.I am hoping someone can help me.It has a thread but is empty MOT next month. Always had Toyotas 2nd discontinued model. All because I Fell in Love with a C plate Corolla GT....CAN ANYONE HELP ME PLEASE?Or my job is on the line. :help2: is there anybody out there

[Bono Estente]

Need for info......Is the car turning over and just not starting? or not turning over?

[Loobs]

Generally, if the Battery is more than 3 years old, replace it. Any decent Battery place can do a load test and advise.

If you are charging the Battery and it is still going flat, then check for things on permanently, boot lights or under bonnet lights, internal lights, that sort of thing.

[galloot]

Need for info......Is the car turning over and just not starting? or not turning over?

Not turning over weak dashboard lights.

[galloot]

Generally, if the battery is more than 3 years old, replace it. Any decent battery place can do a load test and advise.

If you are charging the battery and it is still going flat, then check for things on permanently, boot lights or under bonnet lights, internal lights, that sort of thing.

Yes It was the glovebox light pop out switch taped down for now & car starting since Battery removal & a small amount of distilled water replaced then fast charged.The Battery Is a Panasonic over 9 yr old & might be Original for car.Thanks. I think I need a Battery around winter.

[Loobs]

Get in!! Nice one.

I only thought of that cos a mate had an old lotus that wouldn't start until the Battery was charged, it turned out to be the boot light switch. Nice one!

Battery in my Luton van is over 7 yrs old now...

[galloot]

Get in!! Nice one.

I only thought of that cos a mate had an old lotus that wouldn't start until the battery was charged, it turned out to be the boot light switch. Nice one!

Battery in my Luton van is over 7 yrs old now...

My symptoms exactly.MOT next month just pads & or discs.Thanks very much Car starting every morning Problem Solved.

[KeithPreviaMan]

Hi there, I'm new to this site. I'm also having problems with the D4D engine in my 2003 Previa 2.0 litre diesel. I bought the car new, and when it was about 2 years old the limp mode problem happened for the first time. Going up a hill the engine just died and went into limp mode, which incidentally is such a low power that the car will hardly move, you certainly couldn't limp home. Strangely enough when the breakdown lorry eventually arrived the car seemed to run quite normally and when driving it up the ramp and when it went into the Toyota dealer they just dismissed it as a 'minor electrical fault' (under warranty). The car ran perfectly for about another four years until it started happening again. It's really scary because it always happens when you need a bit of extra power on the motorway or going up hill. I quickly learnt that by switching the engine off, waiting a few seconds and switching it back on gives a temporary fix and after the ignition has been switched on and off about ten times more the engine management light goes out. Once again the car ran perfectly for another 3 or 4 years until now, after a year of standing idle, it's started happening again. This time it's much more severe and more regular. Every time I put the engine under load between 2300 and about 2800 rpm it will misfire and run badly until it dies and go into limp mode. If I avoid accelerating through that rpm band it runs fine. I have now changed my driving style, I change gear frequently to avoid the 2300 to 2800 rev range. It does seem to me that this fault is inherent in the design and not at all related to vehicle age, condition or milage. I have recently tried many fixes but I'm running out of ideas. I have checked the EGR valve and this is spotlessly clean. I took off the turbo vane actuator and the lever to the vanes moves up and down really easily, I sucked in the vacuum pipe which goes to the vane actuator and it operates smoothly. When the RAC have collected me from the side of the road they have reported a fault code of P1251 turbo overboost.

My brother in law had an almost identical car and exactly the same thing happened to him, it went into limp mode. The only difference was that his car was out of warranty when it happened, and the Toyota dealer diagnosed the problem as a failed turbo (even with a relatively low mileage and a full dealer service history). This cost thousands of pounds to fix and he then sold the car, it had recently needed a new integral SATNAV and this was a couple of grand too. We never found out if the new turbo fixed the limp mode problem but I doubt very much if it did, are there any Previa diesels out there that don't suffer from this problem?

Any further advice about a fix would be most welcome, Thanks!

[Nigebob Squarepants]

Hi there, I'm new to this site. I'm also having problems with the D4D engine in my 2003 Previa 2.0 litre diesel. I bought the car new, and when it was about 2 years old the limp mode problem happened for the first time. Going up a hill the engine just died and went into limp mode, which incidentally is such a low power that the car will hardly move, you certainly couldn't limp home. Strangely enough when the breakdown lorry eventually arrived the car seemed to run quite normally and when driving it up the ramp and when it went into the Toyota dealer they just dismissed it as a 'minor electrical fault' (under warranty). The car ran perfectly for about another four years until it started happening again. It's really scary because it always happens when you need a bit of extra power on the motorway or going up hill. I quickly learnt that by switching the engine off, waiting a few seconds and switching it back on gives a temporary fix and after the ignition has been switched on and off about ten times more the engine management light goes out. Once again the car ran perfectly for another 3 or 4 years until now, after a year of standing idle, it's started happening again. This time it's much more severe and more regular. Every time I put the engine under load between 2300 and about 2800 rpm it will misfire and run badly until it dies and go into limp mode. If I avoid accelerating through that rpm band it runs fine. I have now changed my driving style, I change gear frequently to avoid the 2300 to 2800 rev range. It does seem to me that this fault is inherent in the design and not at all related to vehicle age, condition or milage. I have recently tried many fixes but I'm running out of ideas. I have checked the EGR valve and this is spotlessly clean. I took off the turbo vane actuator and the lever to the vanes moves up and down really easily, I sucked in the vacuum pipe which goes to the vane actuator and it operates smoothly. When the RAC have collected me from the side of the road they have reported a fault code of P1251 turbo overboost.

My brother in law had an almost identical car and exactly the same thing happened to him, it went into limp mode. The only difference was that his car was out of warranty when it happened, and the Toyota dealer diagnosed the problem as a failed turbo (even with a relatively low mileage and a full dealer service history). This cost thousands of pounds to fix and he then sold the car, it had recently needed a new integral SATNAV and this was a couple of grand too. We never found out if the new turbo fixed the limp mode problem but I doubt very much if it did, are there any Previa diesels out there that don't suffer from this problem?

Any further advice about a fix would be most welcome, Thanks!

There is tons of stuff on this forum here about limp mode caused by “turbo overboost”

If you have already eliminated it being the Egr and the Turbo actuator I would think you are looking at replacing the SCVs, BUT

Again there is a lot of info already on this forum about the SCVs and how you can test them before you go ripping them out

See pinned section at top of RAV4 forum page… Goood Luck

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/forum/79-rav-4-club/

[Dwane4444]

Hi,

First post on this forum.

I have a 2004 Rav4 D4D XT4 that is having similar problems to those mentioned on this topic. Similar but not quite the same.

When cold the car will accelerate quite normally as long as I don't exceed 3000 rpm. If I do, as soon as I change to the next gear (e.g. 3rd to 4th) the car loses power and will only accelerate very slowly. Occasionally with my foot right to the floor all the power cuts in suddenly and then accelerates normally. If I slow down a little, change down (e.g. 4th to 3rd) the car will accelerate normally. Once the car is fully warmed up it runs OK - maybe a little hesitation.

I have checked the EGR and VSV. The turbo linkage seems free with no sticky spots. NO engine warning lights at any time.

I am more than aware of the possible causes for this problem, but I am hoping that someone may have exactly the same problem and fixed it.

[Madasafish]

Could be a blocked catalyst/exhaust baffle.. When cold, all apertures shrink. When it warms up, they enlarge.. Pressure test when cold

Or the tappet clearances have tightened up. Check when engine cold.

As there are no fault codes, it's likely to be a mechanical issue.

[Dwane4444]

Hi Magasafish,

Good last point! But your other suggestions worry me a little. The fault is not consistent - any blockage or clearance issue would result in the fault being present at all times at a certain temp. This is not the case - the loss of power happens after reving to say 4000 rpm then changing gear - the revs drop to say 2500 and no power ONLY AFTER CHANGING GEAR. before the gear change the car will rev right up to the red line. I really think something mechanical is sticking - I suspected the VSV so as a test I bypassed it - no change. I have removed cleaned and refitted the EGR - no change. I am now wondering about the turbo vanes themselves but I can't seem to find any similar symptoms on posts connect to the turbo. Again it could be the SCV's - if they can "stick". I am considering removing and checking them.

[Loobs]

My dad has bought a 53 plate XT3 and I've been using it as a source of parts and a test bed. The spluttering on gear change is a large part of my problem and we have traced it now to the vacuum regulation valve. When fitted to my dad's car, he experienced the limp mode thing as I've been having on occasion but he had a lot of the spluttering/hesitation when changing down.

As soon as I put it back onto mine, I then have my problems back. £303 plus vat from Toyota, I will wait til I get to Bulgaria in a couple of weeks as it is half the price there.

[JRTC]

I've had the same engine management system fault 7 times now. The fault mainly only occurs when I am towing my caravan in fifth gear and the car will not respond to the throttle but if I pull over to the hard shoulder and stop the engine then start it again the problem disappears but the engine warning light remains on for a day or so. When you are in the third lane of a four-lane motorway at a major motorway intersection this is really scary!

The fisrt time this happened I called out Green Flag who diagnosed the fault as a sticking piston in the fuel pump but as the fault cleared itself said I was ok to continue driving, I pointed this out at my next Toyota dealer service but there was no comeback.

I took my caravan to Wales in July and the fault occurred 5 times, the worst being the M56/M53 interchange and driving solo passing a wagon on the hill at Rhuallt on the A55.

On my return home I took the car to my local garage for a diagnostic check and was told the stepper motor was at fault but that as I had only covered 54000 miles from new then it was more likely to be carbon deposits causing the fault and a can of Forte was added to a full tank of diesel.

Nothing further happened until I returned from the the Cotswolds last week with my caravan and was almost at the Manchester Airport turn-off on the M56 when it happened again.

I am due for a service and MOT this week so I will let you know what the main dealer's take is on the problem.

The car in a 5-door Rav4 Granite D4D registered in September 2005.

[sich1]

JRTC

although i dont tow, i have a couple of times had your problem. accelerate and get a light and loss of power.

your right its a bit scary when your halfway past another vehicle!!

mine has been solved by using a dose of archoil ar6600 turbo cleaner.

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/162065-rav4-d4d-limp-mode/page-4

i suspected carbon build up on the turbo vanes after a period of 2 days when the car was fine, then it went back to hesitating again,then fine for a day or so.

indicating the turbo was fine at times!!

just been on a 300 mile round trip and still fine from when i posted in the attached link.

didnt know we had stepper motors on our variable vane turbos, are you sure??

[Dwane4444]

Can I repeat - at no time have I had a engine warning light!

Now, guess what, the fault appears to have disappeared! The car is going like a train! I am having the SCVs replaced under the dealers warranty, but if the fault is not there, it is going to be difficult to know if it was the SCVs. Only time will tell.

I will keep you posted.

[Dwane4444]

Update:

Cleaned and checked all the control valves etc. - no change. Fitted new SCV's - no change. Fitted NEW turbo - no change. Fault found in VSV wiring - no change. Fitted new VSV (the one that controls the turbo vanes) - FIXED!!!

Luckily I did not have to pay for all this, it was covered under statutory guarantee!

[Loobs]

You're lucky you didn't have to pay.

My dad's RAV threw up a code to do with the inlet EGR stepper motor. It's been fully cleaned now and he says it's running sweetly.

I've driven to Bulgaria, it lost power three times in one day on the way out but has been faultless since.

[addiix]

Had similar problem on 03RAV D4D accelerate uphill into limp mode,turn off and wait five mins start and problem cured.Toyota diagnosed waste gate valve new turbo fitted 1000 miles down the line no more problems .

[bonwitco]

Hi.

I have a 2006 2.2D-4D. I developed a similar problem about three months ago. It began to get harder to start from cold but once warmed up it was OK to start. It also lacks power when you "sink the boot" which it did not lack previously. Thirdly, it is quite noisy compared to what it used to sound like, which I would call quiet (for a diesel). If I am running in third gear at app 2000rpm and floor the accelerator pedal, it does not respond. But at higher revs it will accelerate although without the power it used to have. If I run it at high revs it feels like it has a subtle feel of a misfire but it doesn't "chug", it's basically flat? The fuel consumption is also up. app 300 miles on a tank whereas it used to be closer to 400. I thought it was the injector(s) so had a chap check them with a snap-on diagnostic meter. He was able to monitor the injectors and at idle they were showing values of app +1.6 to +2.2 (he said the values should be between -5 and +5. He got this info from his Toyota mechanic friends. Although I'd like someone on the forum to be able to tell me what the numbers mean? No4 was jumping intermittently from 1.2 to 2.6 which he said was unusual. I serviced it app 2000 miles ago (3 months ago) and it made no difference. I had the fuel filter out last weekend and it's clear, as is the fuel. have read almost all of this thread I am leaning towards the SCV valve or VRV valve? Can anyone help with location of these, any checks or tests I can do on them and how to remove & refit? I have also read that the injectors were updated from part No 23670 09140 to 23670 09290??? Although the cost of these looks to be well outside my budget.

Hoping someone can answer my questions as I am already thin on top but this is now making me think very seriously about pulling what hair I have left, out!!!

Forgot to add. Three of the glow plugs were gone, replaced them about three weeks ago but no difference. Added 430ml of Archoil AR6400-D Pro PEA Concentrate Diesel Cleaner on Sunday past. Definitely not running any better although only done one run of app 100miles after adding it to a tank of BP Ultimate. Then another 30 mile run the next day.

HELP!!!!

[bonwitco]

OK. today coming home from work I got three warning faults on the display. Check VSC system. Check 4WD system and check engine system. I have OBD auto doctor on my mobile so tried it. It was bringing up code P0400 "Exhaust gas recirculation system "A" flow???. It was running exceptionally bad and noisy.
Got it into the garage and decided to check whatever I thought able to. Put 12v on the SCV valve and it was clicking OK. not satisfied with that, I took it out and all looked OK. Checked the coil resistance which was 2.7ohms? Open circuit to earth. Put 12v on it while it was out. It moves app 5mm although with no power on it you can push the valve in app 10mm??? Thought it was OK so put it back in. Removed the VRV or VSV and checked the coil resistance. This was 11.7ohms? Open circuit to earth. There are two ports and a filtered port. One port marked "OUT" which goes to the top of the turbo actuator and the other marked “VAC” which goes into the ??? I can blow through both of these ports with or without 12v on the coil?
Is this knackered???
Then decided to check the MAF sensor. First put the meter on the flow meter connections (pins 1 and 2 looking into the socket of the sensor) it measured 3.85 K ohms. When I gently blew into the flow side the meter reading went down to 3.02Kohms so assumed it was working OK. Then checked the air temperature sensor (pins 4 and 5 looking into the socket of the sensor) it measured 18.6 Megohms. Tried putting heat on it (lighter at a distance of app 50mm) no change in the reading of 18.6 megohms.
Is this knackered too???

Could someone confirm my findings?

I can get an aftermarket MAF from Euro carparts for less than £50 but am having trouble finding a VSV or VRV valve. Whichever is the correct name for it on the RAV 4.3

[Loobs]

That sounds like the EGR valve is clagged up.

[bonwitco]

I cleaned it good and proper a few weeks ago before blanking it off. Only took the blank out on Saturday past. Surely it couldn't be clogged up that quickly?

I'm assuming the MAF temp sensor part and the VSV are knackered as I reckon? Would appreciate someone to confirm based on what I described above. I thought I was going to have to Shell out for new injectors so am eager to hear some good news!!!