Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


  • Join Toyota Owners Club

    Join Europe's Largest Toyota Community! It's FREE!

     

     

Heater


weblogic
 Share

Recommended Posts

Thanks Mick and molveees - appreciate the explanations. Not exactly sure when I will get to attempt this, but will let you know :) I am not losing any coolant.

LAA69 - hopefully have an update from Mr T tomorrow?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I know this wont fix it but have you checked the pollen filter aint blocked? That causes bad air circulation and can feel like its not pumping out the usual strength.I know this might not have an effect on actual heat but not been mentioned yet. :unsure:

im having the same problem started as all the heater being lukewarm when on hot, took out the pollen filter already now the left hand side gets hot and the drivers side is still luke warm, thermostat works ok and both the heater matrix pipes get red hot,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know this wont fix it but have you checked the pollen filter aint blocked? That causes bad air circulation and can feel like its not pumping out the usual strength.I know this might not have an effect on actual heat but not been mentioned yet. :unsure:

im having the same problem started as all the heater being lukewarm when on hot, took out the pollen filter already now the left hand side gets hot and the drivers side is still luke warm, thermostat works ok and both the heater matrix pipes get red hot,

I changed my pollen filter this summer, but will certainly re-check there's no issue there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone know is there a bleed screw on the radiator expansion bottle?

You can just unscrew the radiator cap to the left of the expansion bottle.

If your gonna do the reverse flush, its probably a good idea to run the engine from cold for 5 mins with the radiator cap off to release any air bubbles that may be in the system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Thanks Mick and molveees - appreciate the explanations. Not exactly sure when I will get to attempt this, but will let you know :) I am not losing any coolant.

LAA69 - hopefully have an update from Mr T tomorrow?

Hopefully you are correct, 2 weeks now without my Rolla and i miss her so fingers crossed ...

Let you know ...... :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just tried reverse flushing mine and its still the same, no debris came out and theres none in the expansion tank,

roll on summer then the aircon will prob break :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just tried reverse flushing mine and its still the same, no debris came out and theres none in the expansion tank,

roll on summer then the aircon will prob break :(

Exactly the same here :( Did the reverse flush - nothing suspicious came out. Also changed the coolant in the car....no difference. One further piece of info on the symptoms (which was the same before the work today) - if I have the heater on full temperature, set to blow to the floor and place my hand in front of the dashboard air vents on the passenger side they do feel warm. As soon as I switch from the floor to the main fans it's just cool air.....lukewarm at best on the passenger side. :help:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well they say they have cured the heat on mine bar the vent to the right of the steering wheel, yes 3 vents producing heat but 1 still is not.

They have kept the old A/C Amplifier as requested, so ill post pics of this once i get the car back, fingers crossed yet again for monday, 2 1/2 weeks down the line .........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well they say they have cured the heat on mine bar the vent to the right of the steering wheel, yes 3 vents producing heat but 1 still is not.

They have kept the old A/C Amplifier as requested, so ill post pics of this once i get the car back, fingers crossed yet again for monday, 2 1/2 weeks down the line .........

Still sounds a bit suspect, I would have hoped they would have sorted this out for you. Would be nice to see the AC amp in any case so we can figure out what it does and how the heck it would affect your heating system :blink: Thanks for the update!

Must be the weekend of the reverse flush, I had done this once before but may have had the pipes on reverse. Had another go this morning, put the tap pressure upto full and managed to get a bucket full of floating debris out. Ran it until clean and it seems to have improved heating as it now runs on 25 degree with 3 bars. Think i'm gonna have to flush the entire system though or its just gonna clog again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Must be the weekend of the reverse flush.

:D ....at least one out of three of us got a result from it, good to hear you've got some heat.

LAA69, glad you will also have some heat...although sounds like your passenger will still stay warmer! As FoxX says, still sounds a little suspect. Look forward to the pics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


just tried reverse flushing mine and its still the same, no debris came out and theres none in the expansion tank,

roll on summer then the aircon will prob break :(

Exactly the same here :( Did the reverse flush - nothing suspicious came out. Also changed the coolant in the car....no difference. One further piece of info on the symptoms (which was the same before the work today) - if I have the heater on full temperature, set to blow to the floor and place my hand in front of the dashboard air vents on the passenger side they do feel warm. As soon as I switch from the floor to the main fans it's just cool air.....lukewarm at best on the passenger side. :help:

Hi

The Reverse flush needs to be done for a length of time. I hope you got good flow out of it. If that hasnt fixed it then its got to be your thermostat. As you have also done the coolant change bleed the air our over the next 60 miles or so regularly as the bubbles move from the corepiping to the radiator & see if that improves anything. watch the water level closely in the radiator, not the expansion tank as it is usually false after a coolant change & doesnt always show true level. Just remove the rad cap & you can easily see the water level directly & refill as needed. For me it was my thermostat that did the job for me. cost just £23 plus 7 quid for the v-ribbed belt which i thought i may as well do as the orld serpentine belt started to show cracks. I dont remember if you mentioned both inlet/outlet pipes being equally hot? take out the glove box from the passenger side & check the temperature of the pipes there. I dont think your diverter is faulty. you have 4 possibilities. bad heater core, bad stat, massive air lock in the core or diverter(which i dont think is bad). The heater circuit really is that simple.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone know is there a bleed screw on the radiator expansion bottle?

You can just unscrew the radiator cap to the left of the expansion bottle.

If your gonna do the reverse flush, its probably a good idea to run the engine from cold for 5 mins with the radiator cap off to release any air bubbles that may be in the system.

Reverse flush wouldnt work the way described. The stat will be shut firmly thus wouldnt allow any flow. In my experience no need to reverse flush the engine block. If you really are keen to clean out the engine block undo the bolt under the engine block to allow the coolant to come out that way & flush the top rubber pipe running towards the engine block from the radiator with garden hose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yes .........

Finally got my car back on friday after 3 weeks, they ended up changing the Matrix as well as the A/C amplifier.

The Amp cured the no heat problem, but the right hand vent to the steering wheel was still cool, so changed the Matrix as well which sorted it, they said the Matrix was failing internally and thus causing cool spots.

Now personally i think thats a complete load of B0110X myself and really Mr T didnt have a clue & mainly guessed, but the car is sorted now and warm again so i am happy.

The A/C Amp is no more than a circuit board that processes temp signals from the cabin and compares this to the temp settings to adjust the vents etc accordingly, basically the ECU for the climate control.

Ill post a pic if you want, but not much to look at.

So in hindsight i'd say the Matrix is a good place to start, even if both the inlet and outlet pipes are hot.

Best of luck peeps.... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The matrix :clap:

Shame the dealership didnt get it right first time round.

Mick

Thats the understatement of the year fella ...... but i am enjoying my Rolla again :D :D

Still looking at an Altezza though .... B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the update fella, they got there in the end didnt they.

Hope it didnt cost you an arm and a leg, at least you have an almost completely new cooling system now as they changed every damn part of it lol. I'll probably have to go for a new heater matrix sooner or later, but i'm sure not getting the dealer to fit it :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the update fella, they got there in the end didnt they.

Hope it didnt cost you an arm and a leg, at least you have an almost completely new cooling system now as they changed every damn part of it lol. I'll probably have to go for a new heater matrix sooner or later, but i'm sure not getting the dealer to fit it :)

Hey no problem fella, took a total of 4 weeks though.

The following were changed between the 2 visits, bear in mind i had a water leak as well:

1st Visit:

Water Pump

Drive Belt

Thermostat

Cost = £418 parts and labour

2nd Visit:

Air Con Amplifier(They paid for this)

Heater Matrix (I paid for this)

Cost = £253

Total spent = £671 .... ouch, first time i've looked at the total.

What mods could i have purchased for that ? lol

The saving grace is that i didnt pay for any labour on the second visit, otherwise the total would have probably been between £1000 - £1500 as a guesstimate.

Anyways, all working lovely for the winter, which is the important bit.

My Confidence in Toyota is still not very high now though......

Good luck with yours .... :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

I've read through all of the stuff here. Not really sure if mine is doing the exact same thing.

I have a 52 plate T Sport with a heating problem

Regardless if the engine is at full operating temperature, if the cars idling it only blows cold air

If I drive the car and get it up to a half decent speed, its toasty hot again. Back to idling and not moving, it goes cold/ lukewarm again.

Is this like anyone elses??? I have no idea where to start. I just dont want to spend £700 or anything like that getting it fixed. I think a hat gloves and a blowtorch till summer might be better.........................and to move out of the city!!!

Any help much appreciated if anyone solves it!!!

Cheers

Del

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latest Deals

Toyota Official Store for genuine Toyota parts & accessories

Disclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via eBay links

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share







×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership


  • Insurance
  • Support