Heater

[SiDHEaD]

Excellent instructions morgie - will try this on my moms car. Thanks for taking the time to share.

[Tsporter]

No worries, sounds good TSporter! I'll watch for your update tomorrow. You mention the milky look to what came out during the original flush, have you changed your coolant recently?

Looks like this has solved my heater problem (for the moment anyway)!! Drove home around 6am this morning, about -1 outside, and had to face the vents away from my hands as it was too hot...never had that problem before!! :D

[morgie]

limecc - interesting post and would seem to make sense with what looks to of happened here.

Excellent instructions morgie - will try this on my moms car. Thanks for taking the time to share.

No problem, hope this has good results for you.

Looks like this has solved my heater problem (for the moment anyway)!! Drove home around 6am this morning, about -1 outside, and had to face the vents away from my hands as it was too hot...never had that problem before!! :D

Ha, good stuff. Still seems nice and warm for me also, hope it remains.

[mrreach_69]

Guys

Tried using the Mr Muscle yesterday and although there was a slight improvement in the heat on the passenger side, the drivers side still wasn't perfect. So today decided to give it another blast and leave it a bit longer........went back to it after 45 mins, started flushing with warm water then noticed that I was pouring water in one side and it was no longer coming out of the other. After opening the passenger door found that the passenger footwell was soaking wet. So word of warning - be careful not to leave this in too long. At the mo I'm unsure if something has broken or if it has just become disconnected. Limecc your description for removing the matrix is really well detailed but does anyone have any photos to help with removing the matrix - obviously I need to take it out to see what has been damaged. Any help appreciated

[morgie]

I found this thread - some advice and members that may be able to help?

[limecc]

Really bad news for you, but looking on the positive side it was probably unrecoverable in the first place, so more inconvenience but you'll get it sorted in no time.

Sorry I don't have any pics and it's all back together now. I think if it were redesigned slightly it would be the easiest matrix change of all cars. I strongly disagree that you have to "take the whole dashboard out" as mentioned in Morgie's linked post. Everything stays connected - wiring, ecu, vent pipes, blower etc. You just remove the screws and drop the heater body down and to the left as far as things will allow, maybe 3 or 4", and the matrix squeezes by.

Take out the glovebox, soundproofing, and the plastic cover over the metal pipes to the matrix. It snaps into place on plastic pegs but is irritating to unclip. After you've drained the heater and disconnected the metal pipes the matrix will slide out easily for most of the way. Take a good look at the plastic bracket for the engine management and remove the screw. See how firmly the ECU is still held and take a hacksaw blade to it! Sounds brutal but seriously consider it..

Disclaimer: This is obviously untested, but drop the ECU and wriggle the matrix and I'm sure you will agree the bracket is all that's stopping it.

[mrreach_69]

Thanks - I'll give it a go and let you know which bit was affected.

[mrreach_69]

Ok so had a go at taking out the matrix and have managed to get it most of the way out. Limecc would you be so kind as to advise whether the duct (shown in the pic) has to be removed in order to slide out the matrix? I have undone the 2 visible screws and the duct feels kind of loose but will not slide out (I can see a plastic tab but finding it awkward to get it to release).

I've also attached another pic of the matrix in place for other peoples reference.

I was hoping the mr muscle would have just damaged the o-rings on the pipe to matrix connection, but so far its looking like the matrix itself is leaking (which I don't understand how this could have been damaged using mr muscle and warm water). Just out of interest, does anyone know where I can buy a replacement matrix? (Phoned up main dealer and they quoted £275......I think I'd rather be cold). Cheers guys

[limecc]

I'd forgotten about that duct/deflector. It just snaps into place. By using a small electrical flat blade driver in three places on the perimeter it's straight off. Do the front two and the back one will let go when you pull the duct. Don't worry about it being brittle - it's not. I was able to tuck the wire out of the way during the job still connected I believe.

You can also see a big black screw in the pic that has to come out. There is also one tucked high up upside down in the same area. Make a note or photograph which ones come from where as they all seem to be different lengths, and not all are self tappers. Keep pulling at that housing and you will see where the screws are that you will inevitably miss.

I was concerned about the ease of putting the bodies and ducting back together, but this was far easier than getting it to drop in the first place! The ecu wires stay connected but the two harness clips needed to be separated from the blower body to gain access and get at some screws.

Why not get a replacement matrix from a breaker and get the practice removing it? Mr Muscle clean and leak test before fitting.

Alternatively give these guys a ring:

http://www.vehicleheaters.co.uk/Heater%20M...0-%2020740.html

[mrreach_69]

Limecc your a legend - I'm going to have another go tomorrow and hopefully will get it sorted

[mrreach_69]

Limecc with your guidance I have managed to remove the matrix. You were correct about cutting away the ecu mount -the matrix comes straight out once it has been cut away:

From the photos it is obvious why it has been leaking. On the attachments you will see discolouration of the metal (but only one side for some reason - the other side looks brand new).

On the closeup you can see the corrosion has started to eat away at the cross-rails which is causing the leak.

Before flushing the system I'd never had any problems with leaks, so I was going to suggest it being caused by the Mr Muscle.....but if this is the case why hasn't the corrosion occured all over the matrix? Rather than pay Mr T £275 I think I may cut away the affected rails (2 off I believe) and clean the matrix, then solder up the holes, then pressure test.

[farhanali89]

you wouldnt have to cut up the ecu bracket if the correct keys were bought. Look in my camcon diy and install. You need 5 star torx security screws to remove that bracket. I sure as hell would want to be cutting down abracket that holds the ecu down there.

[limecc]

you wouldnt have to cut up the ecu bracket if the correct keys were bought. Look in my camcon diy and install. You need 5 star torx security screws to remove that bracket. I sure as hell would want to be cutting down abracket that holds the ecu down there.

Its not as you think. The ecu is swung right out of the way with the Torx screws still attached. It's the plastic part of the blower body that is the problem.

It could be hot-melt glued back in position, but having done a heater change personally, I don't see any detriment without it as the other two mounts are sufficient to take the weight. This has more than halved the job time, or made DIY possible at all. It's a personal choice - if you can't live without the bracket, it becomes a very expensive one.

@mrreach_69: These matrix's leak of their own accord anyway judging from other posts. Maybe scale was the only thing keeping it watertight. I wouldn't try a repair though as the rest of it will be in a similar condition, and I would go for max heat! Corroded alloy will be difficult to tin and sandblasting won't help because of the silicates it leaves behind. Did you get a price for the aftermarket one?

[mrreach_69]

Yep theres definitely no issue with cutting that mount away - its more than stable with just the one!! Yeah I took my matrix to my helpful local garage and they enquired about getting the matrix repaired but unfortunately due to that particular matrix using a non-standard core, the repair would cost £240. So obviously I'm buying a new one from Toyota for £275 (although my local garage have advised they can get 20% off for me).

Limecc I agree with you that the limescale was possibly the only thing holding it together - makes you wonder how many more out there are in the same condition!

I also phoned around numerous motor factors etc, but all have advised that the matrix for the corolla is a dealership only item.

Hope my experience is useful for others - I'm looking forward to getting some heat (as summer approaches)

[Tsporter]

Yep theres definitely no issue with cutting that mount away - its more than stable with just the one!! Yeah I took my matrix to my helpful local garage and they enquired about getting the matrix repaired but unfortunately due to that particular matrix using a non-standard core, the repair would cost £240. So obviously I'm buying a new one from Toyota for £275 (although my local garage have advised they can get 20% off for me).

Any use?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Coro...sQ5fAccessories

[limecc]

Tsporter - Your link to the matrix for sale on eBay is no good as it's very different for some reason although it describes correctly. Check out the link I made a couple of posts ago as it has a line drawing of the correct one. These guys can supply an aftermarket matrix, I was hoping it would be the best option for mrreach_69.

http://www.vehicleheaters.co.uk/Heater%20M...0-%2020740.html

For Prices or Information Fax: (01527) 584611 Tel : (01527) 64126 Email : info@vehicleheaters.co.uk

Foursome Vehicle Heaters Ltd, Brockhill Works, Windsor Road, Redditch, Worcs B97 6DJ

[teamdirtydog]

Thanks for the write up! tried this the other week when it was -something outside and gave up with the pliers!

Yesterday I bought some mole grips which made getting the clips off the heater pipes much easier. I had some radflush in the garage that I'd never used and gave that a go after flushing with water first. The water didnt seem that grim but I now get heat!!! It doesnt get red hot like my Surf does but before I had marginal heat from the passenger side only - in fact, driving back from Gatwick 2 weeks ago I struggled to keep the ice off the drivers side window and half the windscreen (inside!). Now I can leave the climate control on instead of having it on HOT/MAX all the time.

Thanks again. :)

[Happy T Sport]

Thanks for this great post, a life and money saver.

I've had the heater problem for about a year now with it getting steadily worse to the point over the last month it became unbearable with ice inside the windscreen.I can't believe it was so simple to fix, didn't even need the sink unblocker, just used the hose and so much stuff came out, nice and warm now

Many thanks from one happy T Sport owner

[Veracity]

Well, it's getting to that time of year where the weather is changing for the worse. So looks like now might be a good time to bump this topic!!

Having noticed that my heater hasn't been working too well since I bought the car, I did a search to find some advice and found this little treasure of a thread. In fact, I'm surprised that this has never been made a sticky seeing as it's proved rather useful!!

Anyway, I will be going through the steps to flush out my heater matrix as per the advice on here at some point soon and will post up how I get on with it. Aside from the bathroom cleaner, does anyone else have any suggestions concerning products to use during the process? I was thinking of trying a descaling solution, but would like some of your opinions on whether that's a good idea or not.

Si

[morgie]

Hi Si, sorry to hear you're suffering from this - I know the pain! A descaling solution sounds very sensible, I would just recommend a cautious approach of not leaving it in for too long so as not to risk damage to the matrix and a potential leak. My initial thoughts were that the Mr Muscle stuff looked like it would eat through anything, so that's why I'd used that. Good luck!

[b1gpkr001]

Descaler will melt any plastic pipes.

I'm a aircraft engineer and we have problems with the hot water systems sometimes and we can't use descaled in the system due to plastic parts and seals.

May not be the same for the heater matrix but I would be very careful

[pimp1chez]

Im going to try the mr muscle route next week , it aint cold .. more like luke warm .if it starts leaking il just get a new matrix now i can see that it can come out with completly dismantling the whole dash

[teamdirtydog]

did the flush on mine a few weeks back and it made a small difference but the metal clamps on the pipes literally took me hours to put back together! never taking it out again unless I replace the matrix!

also thanks for the guide (my ECU bracket had already been cut!)

[pimp1chez]

did the flush on mine a few weeks back and it made a small difference but the metal clamps on the pipes literally took me hours to put back together! never taking it out again unless I replace the matrix!

also thanks for the guide (my ECU bracket had already been cut!)

i heard if you pure warm water on them ,it makes it easier , dont see how its so dam flimsy . i should find out tomoz anyway

[Veracity]

Descaler will melt any plastic pipes.

I'm a aircraft engineer and we have problems with the hot water systems sometimes and we can't use descaled in the system due to plastic parts and seals.

May not be the same for the heater matrix but I would be very careful

Thanks for the tip, I seem to recall seeing a post on here by a guy that experienced a leak after running descaled through his matrix. Is there anyone watching that has the heater matrix out and would know if there were any seals or rubber that might get damaged by descaler?

@Pimpchez; be good to see a few photos if you remember when you're doing yours!