Cambelt Change

[Panzer]

Hi Folks - I'm a new boy with a 2001 D4D.

Full service history to 50K where I inherited it.

Now done 70K & is overdue a cambelt.

I'pulled all the plastic covers off & would appreciate some guidance.

Can I get some engine tech publications somewhere- Haynes only seem to cover the petrol versions.?

Is the crank pully nut done up to a zillion ft lbs?

What is best method to remove - how to lock crank/flywheel?

Can I download details of timing /alignment marks, from somewhere.?

Theres a pointer on the cam pully that looks to trigger an electrical sensor - and another that looks more like a timing mark.

Can the cam be pegged without buying silly OE tools.

Presumably I support engine & remove o/s engine mount to access bottom cover.?

Once I've got in - can the tensioner be pinned back - how?

Is it advisable to renew tensioner / idlers/ anything else whilst Im in.

I intend keeping it for a few years & dont mind spending on preventative maintainance.

Dont want to spark a huge debate - it seems an emotive subject - I'll be doing 15-20k miles PA - whats the best oil?

I've filled it twice with 10/30 fully syn but the oil light seems a bit lazy at going out.

Once out it runs good - not the quietest or most powerful - but ok & does 50-55 mpg at about 75mph on my

70 mile daily commute................. Mobil 1 I guess ..........what grade?

Any advice / comments welcome.

Best Regards

Panzer

( my other old sheds a Merc deisel)

[gazza1286]

Releasing the pulley wheel nut is easy. Use two bars similar to:

The bolts fit into the pre-drilled holes in the pulley wheel. The two bars are bolted to eachother at the other end. The entire assembly will lock against either the ground or the drive shaft.

The nut isn't that tight.

I've never bothered changing the tensioners pulley wheel. They are significantly better quality than the likes of VW parts. The timing marks are very clear on the cam pulley and crankchaft etc You won't have a problem.

Yes - the engine need supporting - a block of wood under the sump will do.

Never done your engine but have done the following Toyota engines in the past.

2E-FE;

4A-F

7A-FE

Those were all very similar so I can't see yours being much different.

Can't advise on oil.

[Panzer]

Hi Folks - I'm a new boy with a 2001 D4D.

Full service history to 50K where I inherited it.

Now done 70K & is overdue a cambelt.

I'pulled all the plastic covers off & would appreciate some guidance.

Can I get some engine tech publications somewhere- Haynes only seem to cover the petrol versions.?

Is the crank pully nut done up to a zillion ft lbs?

What is best method to remove - how to lock crank/flywheel?

Can I download details of timing /alignment marks, from somewhere.?

Theres a pointer on the cam pully that looks to trigger an electrical sensor - and another that looks more like a timing mark.

Can the cam be pegged without buying silly OE tools.

Presumably I support engine & remove o/s engine mount to access bottom cover.?

Once I've got in - can the tensioner be pinned back - how?

Is it advisable to renew tensioner / idlers/ anything else whilst Im in.

I intend keeping it for a few years & dont mind spending on preventative maintainance.

Dont want to spark a huge debate - it seems an emotive subject - I'll be doing 15-20k miles PA - whats the best oil?

I've filled it twice with 10/30 fully syn but the oil light seems a bit lazy at going out.

Once out it runs good - not the quietest or most powerful - but ok & does 50-55 mpg at about 75mph on my

70 mile daily commute................. Mobil 1 I guess ..........what grade?

Any advice / comments welcome.

Best Regards

Panzer

( my other old sheds a Merc deisel)

[Panzer]

Releasing the pulley wheel nut is easy. Use two bars similar to:

The bolts fit into the pre-drilled holes in the pulley wheel. The two bars are bolted to eachother at the other end. The entire assembly will lock against either the ground or the drive shaft.

The nut isn't that tight.

I've never bothered changing the tensioners pulley wheel. They are significantly better quality than the likes of VW parts. The timing marks are very clear on the cam pulley and crankchaft etc You won't have a problem.

Yes - the engine need supporting - a block of wood under the sump will do.

Never done your engine but have done the following Toyota engines in the past.

2E-FE;

4A-F

7A-FE

Those were all very similar so I can't see yours being much different.

Can't advise on oil.

[Panzer]

Thanks Gazza - need urgent assistance - Gazza - or anyone

How to I compress the tensioner to swing it away from the belt - I can see the small hole which you can probably insert a drill through to lock it -

Ive ondone the hex headed bolt that locks the tensioner in place .

I assume theres a big spring in the tensioner housing - or is it hydraulic - if so how do you release the pressure.

Any advice appreciated

Panzer