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[Panzer]

Please could someone tell me how to release the tensioner pressure on a 2001 D4D cambelt.

Refer to recent cambelt post .

Thanks in anticipation

Panzer

[cmia]

You should be able to push on the tensioner and it should go down 5/7mm..

then you hold it in place with a pin or some thing. (you will see a hole for it)

It may need to be removed from the engine..

via the two bolts

You are aware that you need to "time" the diesel d4d pump and the crank shaft ...

if not .. it may not start..

[timson]

Please could someone tell me how to release the tensioner pressure on a 2001 D4D cambelt.

Refer to recent cambelt post .

Thanks in anticipation

Panzer

Loosen the Tensioner seccuring bolt, lever the tensioner rearwards and tighten the bolt to hold it in the rearward position. Protect the levering surfaces with cardboard or similar.

[cmia]

Better description

:P

[timson]

Please could someone tell me how to release the tensioner pressure on a 2001 D4D cambelt.

Refer to recent cambelt post .

Thanks in anticipation

Panzer

Loosen the Tensioner seccuring bolt, lever the tensioner rearwards and tighten the bolt to hold it in the rearward position. Protect the levering surfaces with cardboard or similar.

A 2001 should be Chain, not belt as far as I know?

[cmia]

Nope the D4D's are all belt driven :(

[Panzer]

Nope the D4D's are all belt driven :(

Many thanks to all for your kind assistance

I resolved to have a last go whilst I waited your responses - and discovered that heavy sustained pressure was what was needed-

with the emphasis on sustained.

I suspect the tensioner is oil filled with a very small hole as a transfer port. If you keep heavy pressure on it it slowly begins to move.

Once compressed its a nice little touch that you can lock it up with a suitable drill inserted through the holes.

I could see the timing mark on the injection pump - but the one on the cam pully didnt seem to line up with anything.

I just marked the pully against an adjacent web.

Having bolted up the iron middle cover & engine mount - I whizzed it over & it started no bother.

The old belt was in great condition - but at least I can forget it now - job done.

Everything seems seems nicely engineered and the bearings on all the idlers seem substantial.

Another nice touch is the threaded holes in the crank pully - so you can make a little extractor to pull it off the crank-

I,m sure it would be a pig otherwise.

Oh -if anyone else is having a go - you can get the crank nut off easy without making anything -

the motor turns clockwise - so if you put a big ring key & jam it against the suspension - a flick on the starter winds it off easily.

New cam belt, fan belt, & ribbed belt - £35. 2 afternoons work - job done.

Sound a lot better than the £500 ish the nearest dealers were quoting.

Thanks again to all for the advice.

Panzer

[don21]

Good job you got it right or it would have cost you a lot more than £500.Make lots of money from people not getting timing belt procedures right.Lucky for you Toyotas are reasonably straightforward.Try a Megane 16 valve and see what fun you will have.Glad it worked out for you.