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Timing Chain Tensioner On The Roadster


1bloke1dog1mr2
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I've just got my roadster back from it's service and they have said that the timing chain tensioner is leaking and have quoted £89.95 to fix it. Also the exhaust heatshield is rattling from a missing rusted bolt, but I can probably find a decent welder to fix that.

I have noticed it has become a bit ticky over the last year, so this must be the reason, but is it something I can DIY, get someone at my local garage to do or just go to Mr T for? I've not noticed any oil whatsoever on the road so it must be the most minimal of leaks.

Advise greatly appreciated...

Amy :thumbsup:

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I've just got my roadster back from it's service and they have said that the timing chain tensioner is leaking and have quoted £89.95 to fix it. Also the exhaust heatshield is rattling from a missing rusted bolt, but I can probably find a decent welder to fix that.

I have noticed it has become a bit ticky over the last year, so this must be the reason, but is it something I can DIY, get someone at my local garage to do or just go to Mr T for? I've not noticed any oil whatsoever on the road so it must be the most minimal of leaks.

Advise greatly appreciated...

Amy :thumbsup:

Quite a common leak on this engine, you can buy a new tensioner for £27.10, you can even buy the seal that goes in this tensioner for £3.02, you would need to be competant to do it yourself (not a flippant remark, you will need some mechanical knowledge) or any garage will charge about an hour for doing it

Kingo :thumbsup:

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Many thanks Kingo, so is it worth getting the bits and going to my local and reliable mechanic then? I guess tools needed are the usual if the garage is a good one?

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Shouldnt be a problem to him, they leak very slowly so you might not notice too much of a loss, but it can only get worse so have it done PM me if you want to order one, will be back in on Monday, have a good weekend

Kingo :thumbsup:

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One question Amy......Are you putting any oil in it?

The reason I ask, is because three years ago I had exactly the same diagnosis along with water leak near the pump. I was quoted a similar price for the oil leak and the same again for the water leak.

Thing is, I check my oil and water levels at least twice a week and I had never needed to top up between services, in fact I used more oil wiping the dipstick than any leak there might have been.

So, if like me you know the level is always constant and you don't have a patch of oil in your regular parking place.....Don't worry, just check your levels on a regular basis and only consider the "Suggested" problem should an oil leak become apparent. :thumbsup:

On a side note, the last service my car had it was "advised" that my handbrake cables were "stretched", the replacement/fitting charge would be knocking on £200, as I have just had the MOT done and there is no excess travel, I think it might be a tad longer before I consider replacement ;)

Les

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Hi Les,

I'm like you, I check my oil at least once a week and never have to touch it between services, that and the lack of oil on my parking patch made me wonder too. Levels have always been good on my car and I'm on the ball with checking that because of the pre-cat failures you read about. I've had this rattle for a week or two because of the rusty bolt on the heat shield, but the ticky noise makes me wonder because I've had that for a nearly a year, reminds me of the worn tappets on my old XR2!

I know I caused my local Mr T a bit of strife two years ago for jet washing paint off my bumper, but would they intentionally point out problems that weren't there, even if I am a girl?! It passed the MOT no problems, but my Dad's car has a massive sump leak and that passes MOTs too.

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I noticed mine doing that the other day after a drive. Not sure if it's anything to worry about, but I guess I will ask the Toyota people to have a look at it when they do an oil and filter change.

Paul.

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry, a bit late to this thread and only just noticed it.

I'm with GIDDLEPIN on this one for two reasons.

1. The weep of oil will be extremely slight so unless you're seeing it pouring out then it isn't worth the cost.

2. Actually you can almost guarantee swapping the tensioner won't fix the problem. Reason; it is almost certainly not the tensioner leaking. Look where the tensioner is and you'll see its right by a joint in the head block and timing gear cover. It's a weak spot and the engine will be leaking from there. It'll cost a significant amount more for a dealer to fix and they'll just make the overall condition worse.

If you did fancy changing the Tensioner just to be sure it's a 5 minute job with a 10mm spanner.

Undo 2 10mm nuts on the tensioner and remove.

Install the new tensioner

Rotate the engine backwards then forwards half a turn to release the storeage hook on the tensioner

If you want to do it with just a change of the o-ring just follow the above. You'll have to reset the tensioner though which whilst tricky is simple enough. Hold the locking cam open (i.e. the non return bit that goes in the grooves (if you'll see what I mean if you get it out) and push the plunger in (you will get a handful of oil so you may want to wear gloves). With the plunger held all the way in flick the storeage hook into place. I'd then suggest pushing it in to make sure the hook releases and then re-secure.

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Thanks for the info :thumbsup: . I've done nothing about it apart from buy the part, guessed it wasn't that serious from other's info & I always keep an eye on the oil level!!

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