Carinae Water Pump, Advice Needed

[francois]

Hi All

Toyota Carina E 1.8 GS Preg

Last month I had the cam belt and kit replaced. Now there is an awful rattle in the engine. The same garage say its the water pump on its way out (the bearing) and the pump needs replaced immediately as it may cause the cam belt to come off (the little wheel where the two belts join does seem to wobble very slightly). They have also said they cant tell me what kind of water pump I have until they take it out and two models are possible, one at about £50 and the other about £100. These guys specialise in toyota and other japaneses cars so this sounds odd. furthermore they would have had to take the water pump off to change the cam belt and kit and it seems weird that suddenly its on the blink (I had the water pump replaced two and a half years ago, i have done 40 000 miles since).

so does anyboday have any insight on 1) this story about two types of pumps possible and 2) how likely it is they stuffed my water pump when changing the cam belt and kit?

cheers

[Parts-King]

There are two types of pump, it depends on the make of pump which is stamped on it. Both are about the same price (£78 plus VAT)

It is unusual to get a pump failing again after 2.5 years, was it a genuine pump last time? They normally last a lot longer than that. You cant really overtighten the cam belt so I dont see that as a cause for the pump to fail this time, when a pump starts to get noisey, they are usually noisey for quite a while, so I would have thought it might have been heard a month ago!

Kingo

[gazza1286]

The pump doesn't come off to change the cam belt. The only bit that comes off is the water pump pulley wheel. If it now has an uneven rotation the garage mechanic may not have re-seated the wheel correctly when he put it back together. It is secured using four 10mm bolts.

That is my bet. Water pumps should last much longer. Seems like too much of a coincidence to me.

The water pump has a fail-safe design such that water leaks if the bearing begins to wear. I would say - no leak = not failed.

Also, if the bearing were so badly worn, removing the pulley bely would allow you to examine the amount of play in the shaft.

[Parts-King]

The water pump has a fail-safe design such that water leaks if the bearing begins to wear. I would say - no leak = not failed

It is true to say they "Normally" leak if the bearing has gone, but I have seen many a water pump making a right old rumbling noise with no leaks at all, you cant take it for granted, the only way is to inspect the pully/shaft/leaks to be certain

Kingo

[francois]

ok thanks people

so how can i easily check if its just the wheel gone wonky or if the pump is really stuffed? (in layman's terms please!!!)

and how likely is it for me to change pump myself? I have access to a professional garage and tools etc

also what is the difference betweeen the two pumps? most traders onmly list one type for that year/model....

thanks for your replies

[gazza1286]

The Haynes manual provides a good explaination for the job.

It is difficult. (and alkward) allow 3-4 hours minimum

You do need a variety of tools.

You might be able to solve the pulley wheel problem without any dismantling (if your lucky) The wheel is secured to the shaft with 4x 10mm bolts. They may be loose. You need a off-set ring spanner to gain access. The wheel may just turn as you tighten depending upon how tight the pulley belts are. If that's the case use a set of loccking pliers (mole grips) to 'lightly' grip the outer lip of the pulley wheel so that the pliers turn and wedge against something to lock the wheel in place.

If this doesn't help then you will need to remove the power-steering pulley and the water pump belts to gain access. If you can do this it's good practice for the main event if you decide to try it.

The noise you are hearing may just be the 'V' belt catching on the wonky pulley wheel.

Good luck