Gt4 St205

[Rowbotanator]

hi im looking to by the gt4 thinkin of the ugrade from the gt as some idiot crashed it to me and wrote the gt off just wondering wot sort of mpg you get out of them and other info thanks appreciat it

[Rowbotanator]

also want to know if they have any problems i.e turbo problems etc... wots the dif between the inport and the uk which is the better one to have with it running in the uk

[T600]

Sorry to hear that.

GT4 consumption will be somewhere in the 20s depending on how much you've done to increase the power and how fast you drive. Less than that if you really push them.

None of the GT4s can be considered to be economical unfortunately thanks to them being quite a bit heavier than the equivalent 2WD and having greater transmission losses. But if you don't do too many miles, and want the 4WD grip, then it's worth it.

[gt4WRC]

hey mate, i have a gt4 wrc import all the way from japan, the difference between the cars asthetically is the import has square number plates and recess for the number plate at the rear, and it runs 255 horses under the bonnet, where-as the uk version has 235bhp or something like that, but i think the jap version is higher because they run on high octane fuel all the time. i get in the region of 27mpg regularly, keeping regular oil/filter changes in mind too, about every 5-6000 miles there-abouts. A very reliable car i have found, but because of their age, a bit of tweeking here and there. suspension is definatly something to look out for at 70,000 miles with the superstrut possibly needing replaces/refurbished.

A good choice of car though, nice and rare

[Rowbotanator]

hey mate, i have a gt4 wrc import all the way from japan, the difference between the cars asthetically is the import has square number plates and recess for the number plate at the rear, and it runs 255 horses under the bonnet, where-as the uk version has 235bhp or something like that, but i think the jap version is higher because they run on high octane fuel all the time. i get in the region of 27mpg regularly, keeping regular oil/filter changes in mind too, about every 5-6000 miles there-abouts. A very reliable car i have found, but because of their age, a bit of tweeking here and there. suspension is definatly something to look out for at 70,000 miles with the superstrut possibly needing replaces/refurbished.

A good choice of car though, nice and rare

will it matter that i run it on 95 octane and i think i read something about the turbo shafts one not being as good as the other. i have found a gt4 with 77,000 on the clock jap import i am slightly concerned with buying a turbo but really do want one lol

[gt4WRC]

it shoulnt be a problem because i run mine on 95 octane all the time and runs fine, maybe a re-map to be sure, could be in order. The turbo is addictive when you first get it mate, but if you dont abuse it, and you MUST let it WARM up before you boost, and COOL down before you switch off so the heat doesnt crack it, it should be fine. Just check for blue and white smoke as an indication of worn engine/turbo

[Rowbotanator]

i aprieciat the info im gana get a turbo timer on it anyway if i do buy one. that way i cant forget to cool it down lol

[Rowbotanator]

wot sort of boost do they run to safely?

[gt4WRC]

not too sure, they run 11-15 psi safe i think. boost timer a good idea, i got an hks one installed, invaluable, so the car will never blow up even if the missus drives!!!

[dawesy]

yeah 1.1 bar is about as high as you want to go on the stock pistons . if you do up the boost get an electronic boost controller not a bleed valve etc.

if you see one you like ian at TR&D in hucknall will give it a look over and let you know of any possible issues all for £35 (refundable if he carries out any repairs)

dont get the cheapest one you see, a dog of a GT4 can be expensive to put right.if possible get one that has had fig 8's, lower arms and clutch done as these are the biggest hitters (clutch is an engine out job) around the £4-4.5K should get a tidy one.

also get a pre 95 one if you want to decat it as you can still get it MOT'd without a cat

[Grandadg]

Rowbotanator I have just sent you a message. I have a wrc up for grabs.

[Rowbotanator]

appriciat all the info guys i think i ganna get one been talking with my mate got a s14a 200sx and i think im missin out on the turbo side of cars. i understand with clutches and things anyway im a tech anyway so things like that i can do. looking forward to getting my gt4 now lol now i know they're good. ow i herd that with the gt they couldnt be mapped can the gt4's or are they the same. i thinkin with mods best to have them mapped together?

[led-gt4]

appriciat all the info guys i think i ganna get one been talking with my mate got a s14a 200sx and i think im missin out on the turbo side of cars. i understand with clutches and things anyway im a tech anyway so things like that i can do. looking forward to getting my gt4 now lol now i know they're good. ow i herd that with the gt they couldnt be mapped can the gt4's or are they the same. i thinkin with mods best to have them mapped together?

would only get a remap if ur going for bigger power. the gt four can run on 95 ron no probs, the jap import mite b a bit lumpy on it (i would just use the higher octane 1 as if runs far better) and the uk car is made to run on the 95 stuff.

as for the turbo timer, u will need to make sure ur alarm can deal with it. my alarm kicks in after 30 secs and would cut the power to a turbo timer. there are only certain alarms that work with a turbo timer. so look into it.

i take it ur looking for a st205 gt four then (the 1 with the round lights)?

rear dif mount tends to go too, take it for a test drive over a really bumpy road, knocks etc are a sign the the suspension is on it way out. and trust me it costs a fotune to put right!

[Fizz]

it shoulnt be a problem because i run mine on 95 octane all the time and runs fine, maybe a re-map to be sure, could be in order. The turbo is addictive when you first get it mate, but if you dont abuse it, and you MUST let it WARM up before you boost, and COOL down before you switch off so the heat doesnt crack it, it should be fine. Just check for blue and white smoke as an indication of worn engine/turbo

Your asking for trouble if your running a Import GT4 on 95 ron bud... dont be tight and go for the good stuff.

This is of course unless your car has been mapped to 95 ron?

[led-gt4]

it shoulnt be a problem because i run mine on 95 octane all the time and runs fine, maybe a re-map to be sure, could be in order. The turbo is addictive when you first get it mate, but if you dont abuse it, and you MUST let it WARM up before you boost, and COOL down before you switch off so the heat doesnt crack it, it should be fine. Just check for blue and white smoke as an indication of worn engine/turbo

Your asking for trouble if your running a Import GT4 on 95 ron bud... dont be tight and go for the good stuff.

This is of course unless your car has been mapped to 95 ron?

dont think it would cause u to much trouble, car would b a bit sluggish just. know plenty of guys that run jap imports on 95 ron fuel and my mate has a st205 wrc and has had it for 3 years and runs it on 95 ron, only puts in the 97 ron stuff for giving it a blast. car hasnt missed a beat in 3 years. in northern ireland not all garages have the 97ron stuff and ive yet to see the higher stuff u can get 100 ron?

[ajcluck]

i know tesco does a 99, and it is cheaper than the v power that Shell do, but you always hear urban legends that supermarket garages always water down their fuel (not sure how it can be possible) but i always find that the st205 runs nicer on the Shell v power

[dawesy]

TBH tesco 99 is std unleaded with additives not specialy blended like V power.

the std ECU in the GT4 is not re mappable, so if your looking at a remap budget about £700 for a new ecu as well

[Jones~32]

Your asking for trouble if your running a Import GT4 on 95 ron bud... dont be tight and go for the good stuff.

+1 :)

[Sketchy]

Ok Just to clear things up for you new guys or those who don't know much about the GT4's ECU the problem is the following.

The JDM gt4 base map is set for 100ron fuel, as such it is setup with a very agressive spark advance curve, i.e. as reves rise the ecu adds a hell of a lot of advance.

Now when you stick 95 ron fuel in the fuel is less able to withstand det and as a result det will start sooner than with 100ron fuel. The 3s-gte is what's called a det limited engine. This means that the maximum torque(which is what you map) you can achive on boost is limited by when the engine starts to det. Given the fact that 95 ron fuel starts to det earlier than 100ron fuel a map setup for 100ron fuel has the potential to cause a lot of det when run on 95ron fuel.

Now the flip side to this that some people will arge is that the gt4 ecu has some pretty advanced knock detection and avoidance built into it, and this will stop the engine detting on 95ron fuel. To some degree this is correct however and this is the big bit in order for the ecu to pull timing and avoid det it first has to detect it, which means it has to be occuring this is massively bad for your engine. Every mapper I know or have ever talked to agreed that it is better to setup the map to aviod det and then have knock detection as an emergency back rather than to map up to det and let the knock detection correct for it.

The reason behind this is that det is very effective at very quickly putting holes in pistions or destroying ringlands, even the mildest amount willeakend pistons and reduce their life considerably.

FYI everyone spouting that JDM gt4's have more power than UK ones, this is down to the mapping for 100ron fuel, as soon as you put a lower grade fuel in the ecu will start pulling timing and reduce the engines power most likely to below that of a UK car if run on 95ron as the JDM ecu will be pulling to be safe where as the UK ecu will be running to map. This is further reinforced by the results of my old UK ST205 which during a GT4OC rolling road day comprehensively beat the majority of JDM cars present putting down 271BHP and 260LB/FT not bad for a stock (Low power!!) UK car...

You pays your money you takes your choice...

Rant over hope everyone looking to buy finds a good example and loves them as much as I do mine... :D

[Rowbotanator]

Ok Just to clear things up for you new guys or those who don't know much about the GT4's ECU the problem is the following.

The JDM gt4 base map is set for 100ron fuel, as such it is setup with a very agressive spark advance curve, i.e. as reves rise the ecu adds a hell of a lot of advance.

Now when you stick 95 ron fuel in the fuel is less able to withstand det and as a result det will start sooner than with 100ron fuel. The 3s-gte is what's called a det limited engine. This means that the maximum torque(which is what you map) you can achive on boost is limited by when the engine starts to det. Given the fact that 95 ron fuel starts to det earlier than 100ron fuel a map setup for 100ron fuel has the potential to cause a lot of det when run on 95ron fuel.

Now the flip side to this that some people will arge is that the gt4 ecu has some pretty advanced knock detection and avoidance built into it, and this will stop the engine detting on 95ron fuel. To some degree this is correct however and this is the big bit in order for the ecu to pull timing and avoid det it first has to detect it, which means it has to be occuring this is massively bad for your engine. Every mapper I know or have ever talked to agreed that it is better to setup the map to aviod det and then have knock detection as an emergency back rather than to map up to det and let the knock detection correct for it.

The reason behind this is that det is very effective at very quickly putting holes in pistions or destroying ringlands, even the mildest amount willeakend pistons and reduce their life considerably.

FYI everyone spouting that JDM gt4's have more power than UK ones, this is down to the mapping for 100ron fuel, as soon as you put a lower grade fuel in the ecu will start pulling timing and reduce the engines power most likely to below that of a UK car if run on 95ron as the JDM ecu will be pulling to be safe where as the UK ecu will be running to map. This is further reinforced by the results of my old UK ST205 which during a GT4OC rolling road day comprehensively beat the majority of JDM cars present putting down 271BHP and 260LB/FT not bad for a stock (Low power!!) UK car...

You pays your money you takes your choice...

Rant over hope everyone looking to buy finds a good example and loves them as much as I do mine... :D

this is great info and apprieciat it all i'll look for a uk spec car then if i can only get the jap then i surpose im gana be spending on the fuel lol thanks alot guys

[Rowbotanator]

just out of curiosity then can the jap one be altered to run propperly on 95 or is that imposible?

[GTForbes]

you'd need to get the ECU chip replaced or a piggy-back or standalone ECU to let you.

[led-gt4]

just out of curiosity then can the jap one be altered to run propperly on 95 or is that imposible?

you could look about for a uk spec ecu on eBay or scrap yards or join the owners club as some will buy after market and re mappable ecu's. Jap imports tend to be in better condition tho as they dont use salt on their roads. there is still good uk spec st205's out there but would be a lot rarer.

there are a few things to consider on a fresh import tho, some of them arent registered yet so need to be mot'd and not sure what it is like in england but over here (northern ireland) a "fresh" import needs a special mot to check that its uk ready ie rear seat belts uk lights and fog light. the other thing is that most come with a ruddy big gap in the dash where the old double din cd player was (these dont pick up our radio stations) so budget for a new cd player. also they tend to still be in kph and need the delimiter and converter box (20 odd quid on eBay if i remember). if ur are buying an import that has been in the country for a while then the chances are that all these things have been done.

if you wanting more power then get a jap import and run it on the higher ron petrol and even add an octane booster. trust me when u get 1 u will want to start "faffing" about straight away and prob look at after market exhausts and other thing to give u POWER!!!!!! lol

[Fizz]

I would personally suggest getting an import which has been in the country at least a year, that way the 1st owner here would have had to sort all the niggles out which they wouldnt have been aware about before it was imported.

Then you got a car that has been sorted already and jobs a good un. Just make sure to get it undersealed if it aint been done already.. :)

[Rowbotanator]

its hard to find a uk gt4 lol with decent milage so it will prob be the jap import anyway guess im ganna just have to spend that bit more on fuel lol what are people getting miles to gallon?