Camry Stalling

[la3]

I think I finally solved mine (keeping my fingers crossed :) ).

Camry 94 4cy auto 90k miles. Symptomes as everybody else here. Starts great when cold. Drives great for couple of minutes. At the first stop light, the RPM starts fluctuating, and eventually the engine stalls. First thing I did was a major tune up: replaced spark plugs, all cables, distributor caps, rotors, cleaned throttle bodies, what have you. The problem is still there, although it doesn't stall as frequent as before, but the RPM still fluctuates as crazy when car is idle, and the engine sometimes just gives up. Went through 3 months of diagnostics at 4 different mechanics. One suggested that the IAC valve is faulty, and replaced it with a genuine toyota part. The problem is still there. Then they suggested it was the EGR, but I was reluctant to change it there (morale of the story, PepBoys suck!). So i finally took it to the toyota dealer, and it took them 6 hours (!) of diagnostics to find out it was an ignition coil. changed it with a genuine toyota part for $92. Car runs great and idles great since then. hope it will continue to!

[scakat]

Looks like the distributor was the fix for mine. Two months and 2K miles later, I seem to be back to normal.

[tdurden55]

I have a 91 Camry with the same issues, it periodically stalls and I have to keep the throttle up. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the Battery, saying it was faulty, NOPE try again, it stalled as I was driving off the lot.

Im going to do some work myself and try to replace the Distributor Cap and Rotor - then maybe the plug wires and pcv valve is sequence to see which one will resolve the issue. I will post my findings back here.

[JazBaws]

Ok guys I have to say that I think the camry car lines are all a f :censor: ing waste of money! I have an 88 that just started to stall on me. After reading all that above I think it would be best if we stop wasting money on trying to fix those satanic machines and get them all together for one big bomb-fire... Could just be me getting a little upset with this sh*t. :ffs:

[scakat]

Got the stalling problem fixed, but now the water pump has given up! I'll bet if we put all 10 of these cars together, we might have enough parts to have one that'll run!

[ned312]

I'm not sure if this will help you guys but I had a stalling problem with my manual Corolla FX GT for about a year and a half, After replacing just about every component they finally found the problem today.

My car would stall at stop signs and only when warm, it would often be unresponsive when accelerating and would suddenly burst into action.

It turned out to be the flap in the air intake system jamming (becuase my car had done 190,000 kms it didn't work as well as it was when it was new) and when I came up to a stop sign the air intake valve was jamming shut so that the engine thought it was de-accelerating and would shut off the fuel causing the engine to stall. To fix the problem all they did was to take a bit of tension of the flap to free it up a bit and problem solved :D

Hope this helps someone.

[axis]

my 92 camry also has the same problem. when i stop at a light, the RPM fluctuates, drops real low, and the car stalls. before it used to it occassionally, but now its doing it frequently. i suspect the alternator.

[axis]

^^ it wasn't the alternator. the mechanic replace my whole throttle body (which i think includes the IACV). lets see if this works for me.

[axis]

^^^its back with the mechanic. same problem. now he says its the MAP sensor. lets see if thats the fix.

[scakat]

Those of you still chasing this stalling problem, make sure you know that my previous posting about the distributor replacement, meant that I replaced the distributor, distributor cap, and rotor, NOT just the distributor cap. The distributor is a $500 part, but that WAS the issue with my 94 4-cyl. Good Luck! :D

[gamucci]

I'm new to the board so hello to all.

My problem is very similar to many of the previous posts here. I have a 96 Camry 4 cyl and when I come to a stop, mainly at stop signs or stoplights, my car dies. It starts right back up usually, but this has become an annoying problem. I also notice that it dies when I come to a sudden stop, or a sudden stop and turn.

I noticed my check engine light was on so I replaced my Battery and the check engine light went off, so I thought the problem was fixed -- nope -- still dies while at a stop, but not every stop?? I'm glad I found this board, but there seems to be a multitude of possible problems, so I really don't know where to start, sounds like mechanics also have a hard time finding the problem. This has been a great car with few problems, but this has been going on for about 3 weeks now. Has anyone found any new discoveries?

[HelenM72]

The idle bypass valve inside the throttle body may be clogged with carbon. If this is the case, it can be cleaned. That took care of my problem, but I have to have that valve cleaned every couple of months. I did buy a new one that was $170 some dollars, but found that it still has to be cleaned, so buying a new on was useless. I started having problems again two weeks ago and that turned out to be the vaccuum line and my mechanic fixed it for just a labor charge.

My check engine light is still coming on and going off and showing the code for the bank 1 oxygen sensor, but I've not replaced it because I'm getting good gas mileage. The car is running much better now.

Good luck to you.

[deekay140]

misso, the egr valve is sticking, disconnect the vacuum hose and drive it, the problem should not occur again, however u will get a check eng light on, once confirmed, replace egr valve.

[tuesday]

I, too, have the same problem with a 93 4 cylinder Camry.

I have read elsewhere about the ECT sensor being replaced, but it is not mentioned much in this thread. It makes sense that if defective it would signal the computer to add more/less fuel than needed. I read in Mitchell's that one would need to drain the radiator. What a pain. Is this true? Can I just slap a new one in there, since it is in a readily-accessible-consumer-friendly-spot. Anyhelp from anyone with some tips would be greatly appreciated.

[GAHOO]

My son's 94 4 cyl Camry had many of the symptoms described by others.

Started out stalling while braking, would start back up then stall at next

stop light, etc.. Took to Toyota dealer, they could not duplicate problem

and diagnostics showed no trouble codes. Since stalled while braking they

suspected IAC valve was bad. Drove fine for a couple of days then stalled

again at stop sign. Returned to dealer and they replaced IAC valve at cost

of $503. (IAC valve failure does not generate a trouble code). Stalled again

after a couple days, this time while cold and just pulling out of driveway.

Returned to dealer who drove and car stalled on them, ran diagnostics

which said distributor was losing power. They wanted to install a new distributor

for a cost of $750. I said I wanted to take to a friend to repair. When I picked

car up at the dealer it started but stalled after a few feet. Had to get towed to

friend for repair. He started car drove 10' then stalled, he checked and said plugs were not getting any fire from distributor. He installed new distributor for $300.

(this distributor has electronic points and internal coil). Ran great for a day then

stalled again. He said the only other thing it could be was an open in wiring or

bad computer (ECM), both are rather rare. I spoke to dealer about a new ECM

they said new one was $480. and part numbers must match since changes were made at times in middle of model years. I removed old ECM and took to a junk yard and they matched it for $75. That has been 2 weeks and so far no stalls.

The ECM is located on firewall behind glovebox not hard to replace after you

remove trim and glovebox. I hope this helps someone.

[bentnail]

Like most everyone else, I too had problems with my 1998 Camry 4 cyl stalling after the engine was warm and usually after driving about 15 miles. The stalling occurred whenever I removed my foot from the accelerator to slow down or stop. The dealer couldn't duplicate the problem at first and suspected it was the EGR valve. No error codes shown. After researching the problem on the internet, including this forum, I ended up having the EGR valve and cooling temp sensor replaced at a cost of $492.

Very expensive, but the problem has been solved. Replacing the EGR valve by itself would most likely have solved the problem and saved me about $150, but considering I am keeping the car for a few more years and the lifespan of the original temp sensor may be near, I decided to replace it. It was about $50 less in labor to have both replaced at the same time.

I hope this helps anyone with similar problems.

[92camry]

I too, have a 92 Camry stalling at stop sign signs... especially when stopping hard. My wife and I have adjusted our driving styles to avoid the stalling, but last night I hit the brakes hard. The engine would start, then sputter and die. The car was towed home.

A while back, I replaced the dist. cap, spark plugs, wires, etc... Just as others here have done, but to no avail.

Thank God I found this thread.

I was close to having the car towed to a mechanic, even after my local Folsom toyota dealer service advisor stated he had never heard of Camrys stalling at stop signs before.

It seems everything in this thread points to the Air intake system. I went in to inspect the air filter, then bam, the intake hose was split completely open near the intake manifold. Steve... Thanks... Great advise!

The cost $70, + 15 Min. The test drive went well. No stalling and consistent idle.

[mchoise77]

I have a 1996 corolla that is stalling only in warm weather above 50 degrees farenheit,it will restart and run as new for another 5-10 minutes before restalling especially in low rpms,have replaced fuel pump,fuel filter,air filter,spark plus, but still to no avail, will still stall when warm outside even though actual inside temp gauge shows perfect operating temperate, please email me at mikechoiselat@hotmail.com if anyone has any suggestions

Thank you

Mike Choiselat

[insener]

:ffs:

my corolla with similar symptoms stalled on me again this morning, although i thought i had it fixed, since replaced the IG sensor, ignition coil and spark plugs. no mechanic is able to help me as they say, tough luck. damn pice of junk, i see no other option than taking it apart, selling pice-by-pice as spareparts and buying myself another car. damn japanese talking whole world about their durable and extremely reliable car

[insener]

Is this thread died out? It seems to be, but i add my final discovery though.

Everybody, CHECK YOUR IMMOBILIZERS!!!

My case is finally closed, it was the damn cobra immobilizer that cut out the fuel pump at random moments.

[jayvee2]

Hello--

It seems this thread has died out so as a new user I thought I would start it up again.

What everyone has described about their (mostly) 1995-ish Camry stalling I have experienced.

Two details that I don’t think I've read are...

I know this is going to happen because while driving mostly at highway speeds the engine runs rough (bucks a bit). I find if I throw my automatic transmission into neutral and rev the engine (4,000 RPMs or so) once or twice, the idle returns to normal.

I have 182,000 miles on my Camry and until this problem it has been a very dependable vehicle. I’ve had it to the dealer twice and they claim that since they cant replicate the problem, they can’t fix it. I understand that but on the other hand don’t want them replacing parts willy-nilly. The car (other than as transportation) is almost worthless. My solution, unfortunately, is I am car-shopping. I will probably trade it since I don’t want to sell it privately knowing this problem.

I MAY replace the EGR valve since this seems to be one of the major culprits. I also plan to rip out the distributor and take a look at the coil. But other than that, I’m not putting megabucks into something that’s not worth it. Any new ideas I would appreciate hearing about!

Thanks.

--Jerry

P.S...and a successful one!

Looking under the hood, taking out the distributor to inspect the coil seemed like more work than I cared to tackle. I found a photo of the EGR valve on the internet so I was sure I was looking at the right part. (It's located at the back of the engine block. It's bolted to the engine block. It's round and about 3 1/2 inches in diameter.) There are three hoses attached to the valve. One is metal (coming out the right side) and seems to be crimped onto the valve. No way I was going to try to disconnect that! The other two are rubber and pulled off easily. I had read elseshere that a disabled EGR valve would cause rough running and poorer gas mileage but I was wiling to take my chances. I have run the car on two major trips now and...it's fixed!!! (Or at least I found the offending part.) And it doesn't run rough, either. The "check engine" light has come on twice but then goes out. (This is the FIRST time in 10 years I've even seen this light!) So I feel confidant that the EGR valve is sticking and not operating properly.

For those of you with a similar problem I suggest you try this approach. You can always reconnect the two tubes if nothing improves.

Good luck!

--Jerry :hokus-pokus:

[Protrex]

I am a new member - I found this thread on Google.

I have a 92' Camry 4cyl Automatic which just began exhibiting stalling symptoms today. I drove it around all day and it was fine untill it started raining. I filled up while it was pouring rain and it appeared that the tanker truck was just finishing filling up the tank at the station (Newington Citgo, Rt 15). I finished filling up, started the car, and drove away. I got to a traffic light, looked down at my dash, and noticed that my A/C Light was flashing. I turned it off and continued driving. I got to the next traffic light (still pouring rain) and the engine started to buck and flutter, idiling VERY low - 250 to 500 RPM. It then stalled and I couldn't get it started again. I put it into park, cranked the engine, and gave it gas - I got it started and was able to drive away. Whenever I would slow down for a stoplight the engine would idle VERY low and then stall again. I had to drive with two feet and kick it into neutral at stoplights in order to keep my revs over 1000 - When I went on the highway in an attempt to get the car home as fast as possible it seemed very sluggish and didn't have the responce it usually has.

I got it home and decided that I must have pumped some wet gas into the tank. I went down to NAPA and bought 3 bottles of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (Drygas) and dumped one bottle of it into the tank. I got in and started it and it contiuned to idle very low and rough in Park. I revved it up to 3000rpm for about a minute and let go. It was suddenly idling perfectly - like nothing happened -- I thought good, no problem. Let it idle for about 20 minutes with the A/C on - no problem. I went inside and did some stuff and then had to go out again --- still no problems. It worked fine untill about 9:30PM when I went to Wal-Mart - It started bucking and stuttering in the parking lot. I got out and dumped in another 1/2 bottle of drygas. I drove for another 20 minutes - it seemed like it was now stuttering/fluttering at about 2000rpm and when I parked it it stalled.

When I got back in it about 2 hours later I needed to hold on the accelerator in order to get it to start - I drove straight home and noticed it bucking at about 2000rpm/45mph. I stalled out at two stoplights. I parked it in my driveway.

Do you think the gasoline I purchased caused this? Did I plug up my fuel filter? Why did it work perfect for a few hours this afternoon only to have the problems reappear?

-Jamie

[A Ali]

Hi.

Did anyone ever get to the bottom of the problem with the stalling engine?

I am having the same problem. The Dealers say they have seen the problem happen, but all the engine computers are reporting everything is normal. I think they suspected some ignition coil, but other toyota mechanics doubt this, and the coils have since been exhonerated as culprits for my problem Any ideas?

A

[ToyCar1]

Hi.

Did anyone ever get to the bottom of the problem with the stalling engine?

I am having the same problem. The Dealers say they have seen the problem happen, but all the engine computers are reporting everything is normal. I think they suspected some ignition coil, but other toyota mechanics doubt this, and the coils have since been exhonerated as culprits for my problem Any ideas?

A

←

I have a 98 Camry 4 cyl. and I have a stalling problem too. After the engine is running for 15 minutes or so, sometimes it looses rpms as i stop and then rumbles a bit and dies. It starts right up again, and drives fine. It seems to happen once every few weeks. I have noticed that the car often surges a bit right before the problem occurs. I have not had any other problems with this car and I hope that this one can be solved! I am deathly afraid of taking it to a toyota dealer, as the last time i did this they tried to get me for $1000 worth of non-warranty repairs to my CERTIFIED toyota shortly after i purchased it in 2001. My response to this was that if the car was certified, it should not need $1000 in repairs three months later! I took it to a different mechanic and spent $200 to fix my brakes. Everything else was BS. BEWARE OF DEALERSHIPS!

When i figure out which of the myriad of suggested problems it is, I will gladly share. Some suspects that fit the bill are: EGR valve, IAC (idle air control) valve, Air valve flap is jamming, Vaccum line problem, Air intake system and cobra immobilizer. I have been scouring the net for possible causes. If anyone else is having this problem, please share.

[putzmanjr19]

Hi all,

I have a similar problem with my 93 4-cyl Camry (~130,000 miles). My car's been stalling when I'm stopped for the past week or so. It's only happened 5 or 6 times, and has only happened when I'm sitting on the brakes or in park. It usually doesn't start up right away (after dying), but on the second or third try, it starts normally and runs fine. It's happened both at the beginning, and the end of the drive, so I don't think it's a hot engine / cold engine issue.

It has been idling a little rough lately. One time (since the stalling happened), l noticed that if I let off the gas and coasted, then gave it a little gas, my rpm's dropped a little, then jumped up (and the car physically jerked at this time). This happened for a few blocks, but stopped after a few minutes. I'm not sure if this is related, but it's something that never happened before the stalling began.

The car stalled several times the first day, and has happened less frequently since then. The only changes I've made are:

*I put some fuel injector cleaner in my tank when I filled it up (shortly after it stalled the first time).

*I took it in to a local shop where I have periodic maintenance done and they could find nothing wrong (did an engine diagnostic, but not much more - they didn't charge me for any of the tests).

*I took it to my local toyota dealer. They drove it and couldn't find any problems. They checked everything and decided it was one of three things

1. VSV (he said it wasn't opening and closing properly, but thought it might be closing at the wrong times and killing the engine). He did block this and wanted me to drive it for a week and test it. The car died at the first stop sign after leaving Toyota.

2. Fuel pump - He thought this could the the problem also, but didn't think it was the most likely candidate.

3. Coil - If blocking the VSV didn't fix it, this was his next guess. When I told him about the car dying right after leaving the lot, he seemed certain that this needed to be replaced and wanted me to come back in to have this done.

Since I took it to Toyota, it's only died once (and I've been driving it a lot since then). Could the fuel-injector cleaner have done any good? Also, does it sound like the coil could be the problem? He seemed pretty certain, but it sounds like some of you have tried replacing it to no avail. If it restarts fine, is there any harm in continuing to drive it and having it stall occasionally (besides the annoyance factor?)

I just don't want to drop any more money at Toyota until it either happens often enough for them to duplicate it, or until I know for sure what needs to be replaced. I'm not exactly a car mechanic myself, but any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Chris