Underseat Sub - Fitted

[Guest]

Anyone thinking of fitting an underseat sub, i just bought and fitted a Mutant MT5AS E-bay item number: 250248516766. Collected this is £55 and if you know what your doing should take no more than an hour to fit.

Link to Mutant website: http://www.mutant.uk.com/products/enclosur...enclosures.html

Highly recommended and sounds much better than you would expect for the money and is smaller than the Pioneer underseat sub that i was also considering at over twice the price.

If you want any advice on fitting let me know.

[Zaaro]

Looks gd, have you kept the original head unit?

[Guest]

Looks gd, have you kept the original head unit?

No Ive got a Pioneer 6300MP which has an RCA pre-out for the sub and built in high pass filter, but i didnt have to mess with it too much so i imagine that the non-RCA Speaker hook up would also sound pretty good as there are controls on the sub itself along with the remote, and equally easy to fit.

I would get a pic, but its so small that it sits so far forward under the passenger seat that even when its folded forward its hardly visable.

[Lister2020]

Looks gd, have you kept the original head unit?

No Ive got a Pioneer 6300MP which has an RCA pre-out for the sub and built in high pass filter, but i didnt have to mess with it too much so i imagine that the non-RCA Speaker hook up would also sound pretty good as there are controls on the sub itself along with the remote, and equally easy to fit.

I would get a pic, but its so small that it sits so far forward under the passenger seat that even when its folded forward its hardly visable.

So this will work with the normal stereo system built into the car?

[Guest]

Looks gd, have you kept the original head unit?

No Ive got a Pioneer 6300MP which has an RCA pre-out for the sub and built in high pass filter, but i didnt have to mess with it too much so i imagine that the non-RCA Speaker hook up would also sound pretty good as there are controls on the sub itself along with the remote, and equally easy to fit.

I would get a pic, but its so small that it sits so far forward under the passenger seat that even when its folded forward its hardly visable.

So this will work with the normal stereo system built into the car?

Yep, if you are using the standard radio you just need to splice into the speakerwires behind the stereo. Very simple to do and you dont need anything else.

[Lister2020]

Looks gd, have you kept the original head unit?

No Ive got a Pioneer 6300MP which has an RCA pre-out for the sub and built in high pass filter, but i didnt have to mess with it too much so i imagine that the non-RCA Speaker hook up would also sound pretty good as there are controls on the sub itself along with the remote, and equally easy to fit.

I would get a pic, but its so small that it sits so far forward under the passenger seat that even when its folded forward its hardly visable.

So this will work with the normal stereo system built into the car?

Yep, if you are using the standard radio you just need to splice into the speakerwires behind the stereo. Very simple to do and you dont need anything else.

Im still terrified of wrecking the car so ill let someone else do it

[Guest]

Im still terrified of wrecking the car so ill let someone else do it

Lister, seriously all you need is a flat head screwdriver, a phillips, a 10mm socket and a 12mm soket, and thats it.

[Lister2020]

I also have to remove the seat and put it back together, and I have a very short temper. Installing the sub isnt going to be a 5 minute thing.

[weevicky]

I also have to remove the seat and put it back together, and I have a very short temper. Installing the sub isnt going to be a 5 minute thing.

Indeed :) He has a short temper.... you will need a 5 mile radius

[Guest]

I also have to remove the seat and put it back together, and I have a very short temper. Installing the sub isnt going to be a 5 minute thing.

Indeed :) He has a short temper.... you will need a 5 mile radius

No need to take the seat out at all, plenty of space to work in without removing the seat. The only things you need to take out the centre console (with the cup holders in) which is one bolt and unscrewing the gear knob, and the facia with the stereo in which is one philips screw (under the fan speed knob). Seriously if it was in the haynes manual, it would be less than one spanner!

[BadBoyVTEC]

Don't use the existing HU for a sub without some sort of interface. It will sound terrible. Hi-Input's on amp's just can't cut it.

[MARKO2]

Don't use the existing HU for a sub without some sort of interface. It will sound terrible. Hi-Input's on amp's just can't cut it.

Hi- just ordered one of these subs on the strength of this posting but intended to keep existing HU. Not quite sure what is meant by 'Hi-Inputs on amp's can't cut it' . Could someone explain what this means So is it a waste of time (and money) connecting up to existing HU? If so should I go for a new HU as well? Advice appreciated.

[Guest]

Don't use the existing HU for a sub without some sort of interface. It will sound terrible. Hi-Input's on amp's just can't cut it.

Hi- just ordered one of these subs on the strength of this posting but intended to keep existing HU. Not quite sure what is meant by 'Hi-Inputs on amp's can't cut it' . Could someone explain what this means So is it a waste of time (and money) connecting up to existing HU? If so should I go for a new HU as well? Advice appreciated.

You can just use the normal Head Unit, but it might be worth investing in some cross overs (as per what you would use if you were using component speakers) you then just take the low pass output from the crossovers to connect the sub. 5mins extra installation time max. It is designed to work directly from the speaker outputs from the head unit though so i would install as per the instructions first, see how it sounds and if required then put some cross overs in later.

[MARKO2]

You can just use the normal Head Unit, but it might be worth investing in some cross overs (as per what you would use if you were using component speakers) you then just take the low pass output from the crossovers to connect the sub. 5mins extra installation time max. It is designed to work directly from the speaker outputs from the head unit though so i would install as per the instructions first, see how it sounds and if required then put some cross overs in later.

Thanks for the reply. Unit has now arrived so will connect up as per instructions and give it a listen. Any possibility of a few tips on installation? Is it necessary to connect live up to the Battery or can I use the live from the head unit? Also you mention !Removed! off the gear knob-why does this need to be done? A few pointers in the right direction would be most helpful as I am not experienced in these matters but can usually follow advice and am willing to have ago myself.

Thanks in anticipation.

[Guest]

Thanks for the reply. Unit has now arrived so will connect up as per instructions and give it a listen. Any possibility of a few tips on installation? Is it necessary to connect live up to the Battery or can I use the live from the head unit? Also you mention !Removed! off the gear knob-why does this need to be done? A few pointers in the right direction would be most helpful as I am not experienced in these matters but can usually follow advice and am willing to have ago myself.

Thanks in anticipation.

Ok, I'm assuming that you got the wiring kit with the sub? If so this is what i did:-

1. Run the power cable through to the cabin from the engine bay. I installed the sub under the passenger seat, and ran the power cable through gromit that takes the hot water pipes through the bulkhead to the heater matrix, it comes out in the passenger footwell under the dash.

2. Remove the centre console with the cup holders in it. Do this by removing the 12mm both that you can see in the floor behind the gear stick, then unscrew the gear knob. the Console is then attatched by a clip on either side, I just gave it a decent pull and it came straight out.

3. Pry off the fan control knob and remove the philips screw under it that holds in the top part od the dash with the head unit in it. You will need to give this a decent yank to get it to come out as its pretty stiff, but ive had mine off a few times and its not had any ill effects.

4. Run the cables from the sub (with the white plug on that goes into the sub) through the hole in the carpet under the right hand side of the passenger seat just behind the bulkhead on the floor and these will then pop up behind the gear stick. The remote wire goes back the other way (you will see what i mean)

5. Loosen one of the bolts holding the gear linkage in that has bear metal under it and slide in the earth from the sub into the gap and tighten it up.

6. At this point i removed the head unit and plugged the RCA (phono) cables into the back of the head unit and then ran them down throgh the dash behind the stereo (there is plenty of space on the left hand side and you can see down if you look). You will need to follow the instructions on the sub about connecting the speaker inputs from the sub to the left and right speaker cables. You can do this by splicing into them behind the dash. At this point you need to connect the on/off switch wire. I dont know if the standard head unit has one. I would assume that you can connect it to the wire that carries the ingnition on power feed to the headunit and then use the remote on the sub to turn it on and off if you need to, but i would check if this is OK to do, as i have never connected a sub to a standard head unit. I'm sure some one will know on the forum though.

7. I then connected the power cable to the power feed on the sub wiring harness. If you are not using the standard wiring on the sub im not sure if the wire will reach the Battery as i cut it short and used the better qualiry stuff that i had with the wiring kit.

8. Before putting all the trim back i hooked it all up and checked that it was all working. Once confirmed all the trim went back, in reverse order to the above, making sure all the cables were hidden under the centre console so you can not see anything non standard

All wiring was shortened as much as possible and connections were done with a soldering iron as that is the way i roll with electrics, but if you dont have the tools, any car parts shop will carry all the connecters for you to use. At this point i have just velcroed the sub in and it seems to be fine so i doubt i will bother with the hard fastening. The remote is velcroed to the carpet under the hand brake as i dont need to use it with my head unit having a sub control on it, but you could mount it somewhere else if you need better access.

Hope this all helps. Total install time for me was just under an hour.

[MARKO2]

big boz: really appreciate your help and advice and thanks for the comprehensive step by step instructions Will have ago at the install hopefully at the weekend and am confident that I should now be up to the job. Not too sure about what to do with the blue 'remote' wire which I assume powers up the sub when the radio is turned on. Your suggestion looks sensible so will see if I can execute that. Will let you know how it goes when it's all done. But thanks again-I'm sure others will find your guide of benefit also.

[MARKO2]

Now finished the install and I am more than pleased with the results Even with the original HU it sounds much better than I anticipated. Might change the HU soon because I fancy an in dash DVD player and some good deals at the moment. But anyone contemplating fitting this sub will be delighted with the result- worth every penny

[gilesme]

Great instructions set.

Only thing to add is, if you shorten the power cable to fit, make sure you keep an in-line fuse as close to the Battery terminal as possible.

Other thing I did was to enclose all the wiring in OE type flexible conduit - looks a lot smarter under the bonnet.

Got mine off eBay for about a fiver.

[Guest]

Great instructions set.

Only thing to add is, if you shorten the power cable to fit, make sure you keep an in-line fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible.

Other thing I did was to enclose all the wiring in OE type flexible conduit - looks a lot smarter under the bonnet.

Got mine off Ebay for about a fiver.

Agreed on the fuse issue, Regards keeping it looking tidy, my powercable is cable tied to the aircon pipes so you hardly notice it.

MARK02, glad to hear your happy with the results buddy. So long as you dont want earth shattering base and just want to reinforce the low down frequency responce this sub is perfect. Highly recommended.

[BadBoyVTEC]

I have a dist. block sitting next to the Battery in mine. Toyota even crimped my power cable to the Battery connector properly at the last service so its all nice and neat.

glad ytour happy with the results. The misunderstanding a lot of people have about subs is that they create a boom boom boom that shakes houses a mile away but really it expands the musical rANGe of notes therefore enriching the sound expericence if you know what i mean.

With reguards to using the existing hu, obviously you can but you need to buy a QUALITY rca convertor for it to sound any good and make proper connections (not just twist and tape). And i still belive this doesn't beat changing the hu. Unless of course your spending a lot more money on something like these: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansw....php?page_id=94

thats what i was trying to get at.

post up a piccie of your sub when you get a chance. I going to doa new vid of my sounds soon as it is all changed from the last one now.

[Guest]

post up a piccie of your sub when you get a chance. I going to doa new vid of my sounds soon as it is all changed from the last one now.

I would but I cant see it without taking the seat out!

[Jan van de Wouw]

post up a piccie of your sub when you get a chance. I going to doa new vid of my sounds soon as it is all changed from the last one now.

I would but I cant see it without taking the seat out!

Even when you slide the seat WAAAY forward (and tilt the seatback forward too)???

My Pioneer is hidden normally too, but sliding the seat forward DOES reveal it...

[Guest]

post up a piccie of your sub when you get a chance. I going to doa new vid of my sounds soon as it is all changed from the last one now.

I would but I cant see it without taking the seat out!

Even when you slide the seat WAAAY forward (and tilt the seatback forward too)???

My Pioneer is hidden normally too, but sliding the seat forward DOES reveal it...

Nope, its a fair bit smaller than your pioneer sub though........

[Jan van de Wouw]

WOW, it must be REALLY small then, as the Pioneer I have is just about as small as I could find...

Unfortunately the link in your first post doesn't work (anymore?)...

[Guest]

WOW, it must be REALLY small then, as the Pioneer I have is just about as small as I could find...

Unfortunately the link in your first post doesn't work (anymore?)...

Not sure whats going on with that link, just google the mutant website and then look under the enclosed subs section and its hiding away in there. It is quite a bit samller than the pioneer one, dosent sound quite as good admittidly, but its was half the price and i didnt want it to get kicked by people feet sitting in the back.