D4d Obdii

[anchorman]

One can cause the other to throw up a fault. I believe the mod they refer to is the SCV valves and given that you have to start somewhere it is as good a place as any. Did you read Ruperts post? I believe your symptoms are similar.

Yeah I read Ruperts post and I am just looking into buying the parts now. Thanks for your help.

Anchorman, do you have the same info for the turbo fault code that FielderMike is seeing as you provided for me for the P0627 fault on the SCV vales? If we can see the wording that Toyota give the fault code it may well give us more insight into how one may cause the other. Sounds likely that it might though as the P0627 SCV code refers to actual fuel pressure being lower than target (due to the fuel not getting through because of the faulty SCV), in this situation the boost pressure will also be lower than target for the same reason and so may flag a turbo fault code.

Yeh - that was my thought process.

Bear with me and I will convert some info into jpegs so you can see it.

[fieldermike]

One can cause the other to throw up a fault. I believe the mod they refer to is the SCV valves and given that you have to start somewhere it is as good a place as any. Did you read Ruperts post? I believe your symptoms are similar.

Yeah I read Ruperts post and I am just looking into buying the parts now. Thanks for your help.

Anchorman, do you have the same info for the turbo fault code that FielderMike is seeing as you provided for me for the P0627 fault on the SCV vales? If we can see the wording that Toyota give the fault code it may well give us more insight into how one may cause the other. Sounds likely that it might though as the P0627 SCV code refers to actual fuel pressure being lower than target (due to the fuel not getting through because of the faulty SCV), in this situation the boost pressure will also be lower than target for the same reason and so may flag a turbo fault code.

Yeh - that was my thought process.

Bear with me and I will convert some info into jpegs so you can see it.

Hi Everyone

I just thought I would let you know that I bought the SCV valves from Parts king on this website £195 delivered (£225 at my local Toyota dealer) and had them fitted and it has completely cured the problem. I would like to thank you all for your input and help.

[raverchris]

Hello again.

It's a while since I posted here. But the problem seemed to disappear and I had the Dual Mass Flywheel problem to sort out (see other posts).

Then last week it reappeared. Rather embarrassingly I was overtaking on a dual carriageway up a hill and despite indicating I then had to watch several cars pass me on the inside before I could pull over, switch off and restart.

I'll look at some of the info in the previous posts and probe into the problem.

[raverchris]

Hello again

Since the last post I have checked again. The fault code 34 has now changed into fault code 97.

I have checked the SCV's with help from Rupert's excellent post. I did find the connectors difficult to remove in the limited space and eventually resorted to using a large flat bled screwdriver in one hand to gently lever the connector the forward, whilst squeezing the release mechanism with the other hand. Once started it was the relatively easy to wiggle the connector about whilst pulling it.

Anyway both SCV's seem OK. No short circuit to earth and 1.5ohms between pins @10deg C in each case.

I also pulled apart and remade a few other connectors and in the vague hope of spotting some connector problem.

Thanks to your earlier info Anchorman which points to an EDU malfunction. If the EDU malfunctions do you think its possible for it to display an unallocated flash code like 34?

Any ideas where I should go from here? (Apart from down the pub while I still have some money in my pocket)

If suspect the answer is on this site somewhere but I just haven't seen it, so if someone could point me in the right direction I will be eternally grateful.

[RupertRAV4]

Hello again

Since the last post I have checked again. The fault code 34 has now changed into fault code 97.

I have checked the SCV's with help from Rupert's excellent post. I did find the connectors difficult to remove in the limited space and eventually resorted to using a large flat bled screwdriver in one hand to gently lever the connector the forward, whilst squeezing the release mechanism with the other hand. Once started it was the relatively easy to wiggle the connector about whilst pulling it.

Anyway both SCV's seem OK. No short circuit to earth and 1.5ohms between pins @10deg C in each case.

I also pulled apart and remade a few other connectors and in the vague hope of spotting some connector problem.

Thanks to your earlier info Anchorman which points to an EDU malfunction. If the EDU malfunctions do you think its possible for it to display an unallocated flash code like 34?

Any ideas where I should go from here? (Apart from down the pub while I still have some money in my pocket)

If suspect the answer is on this site somewhere but I just haven't seen it, so if someone could point me in the right direction I will be eternally grateful.

Just bear in mind that the electrical side of the SCV's can be ok but the mechanical side is not so will still give the problem even though the electrical side checks out ok. This was the case with mine - electrical checks all ok but not mechanically. Changed them and cured the problem. No idea if you can check the mechanical side of ths SCVs before replacing them?

[anchorman]

Hello again

Since the last post I have checked again. The fault code 34 has now changed into fault code 97.

I have checked the SCV's with help from Rupert's excellent post. I did find the connectors difficult to remove in the limited space and eventually resorted to using a large flat bled screwdriver in one hand to gently lever the connector the forward, whilst squeezing the release mechanism with the other hand. Once started it was the relatively easy to wiggle the connector about whilst pulling it.

Anyway both SCV's seem OK. No short circuit to earth and 1.5ohms between pins @10deg C in each case.

I also pulled apart and remade a few other connectors and in the vague hope of spotting some connector problem.

Thanks to your earlier info Anchorman which points to an EDU malfunction. If the EDU malfunctions do you think its possible for it to display an unallocated flash code like 34?

Any ideas where I should go from here? (Apart from down the pub while I still have some money in my pocket)

If suspect the answer is on this site somewhere but I just haven't seen it, so if someone could point me in the right direction I will be eternally grateful.

Just bear in mind that the electrical side of the SCV's can be ok but the mechanical side is not so will still give the problem even though the electrical side checks out ok. This was the case with mine - electrical checks all ok but not mechanically. Changed them and cured the problem. No idea if you can check the mechanical side of ths SCVs before replacing them?

Took the words right out of my mouth! No quick way of testing the physical side I'm afraid unless you have something for checking fuel rail pressure. A specialist might help or you'll have to take a chance.

[Alex-malta]

Hello again

Since the last post I have checked again. The fault code 34 has now changed into fault code 97.

I have checked the SCV's with help from Rupert's excellent post. I did find the connectors difficult to remove in the limited space and eventually resorted to using a large flat bled screwdriver in one hand to gently lever the connector the forward, whilst squeezing the release mechanism with the other hand. Once started it was the relatively easy to wiggle the connector about whilst pulling it.

Anyway both SCV's seem OK. No short circuit to earth and 1.5ohms between pins @10deg C in each case.

I also pulled apart and remade a few other connectors and in the vague hope of spotting some connector problem.

Thanks to your earlier info Anchorman which points to an EDU malfunction. If the EDU malfunctions do you think its possible for it to display an unallocated flash code like 34?

Any ideas where I should go from here? (Apart from down the pub while I still have some money in my pocket)

If suspect the answer is on this site somewhere but I just haven't seen it, so if someone could point me in the right direction I will be eternally grateful.

Just bear in mind that the electrical side of the SCV's can be ok but the mechanical side is not so will still give the problem even though the electrical side checks out ok. This was the case with mine - electrical checks all ok but not mechanically. Changed them and cured the problem. No idea if you can check the mechanical side of ths SCVs before replacing them?

Took the words right out of my mouth! No quick way of testing the physical side I'm afraid unless you have something for checking fuel rail pressure. A specialist might help or you'll have to take a chance.

Hello there,

I'm new to this forum but unfortunately used to this problem!

Some of the problems i am experiencing..

1. car start jolting at about 3000 rpm

2. When i put my foot on the pedal it switches to limp mode.

3. I restart it but it would happen again.

It has nothing to do with cold temperature since where I live it never goes down below 10 degrees centigrade and in summer it gets as hot as 40-45.

I took it to a mechanic friend of mine and heres what we did - to no joy....

A. Clenaed the hot wire on the air intake,

B.Removed the turbo, opened it and cleaned it (it was full of carbon).

We tried to look for the fault codes with two distinct units. One gave us "stepper motor control circuit", and the other P1251.

The mechanic thinks that it is something to do with the electrics.

Does anyone have a clue what should I test??

thanks a lot

[stevepen]

Hello there,

I'm new to this forum but unfortunately used to this problem!

Some of the problems i am experiencing..

1. car start jolting at about 3000 rpm

2. When i put my foot on the pedal it switches to limp mode.

3. I restart it but it would happen again.

It has nothing to do with cold temperature since where I live it never goes down below 10 degrees centigrade and in summer it gets as hot as 40-45.

I took it to a mechanic friend of mine and heres what we did - to no joy....

A. Clenaed the hot wire on the air intake,

B.Removed the turbo, opened it and cleaned it (it was full of carbon).

We tried to look for the fault codes with two distinct units. One gave us "stepper motor control circuit", and the other P1251.

The mechanic thinks that it is something to do with the electrics.

Does anyone have a clue what should I test??

thanks a lot

P1251 is Fuel Shutoff Valve Circuit For Pressure Regulator Malfunction

I dont have a clue what that is but it might help you get to the problem.

[Alex-malta]

thanks a lot.....will keep you posted with the progress - if any:(

[celica-group-A]

Chris

Its from around the time the RAV 4.2 was face lifted to round spotlights. Even those with OBDII sockets did not detect the protocol - I think they were a convenient way of connecting the Toyota DLC3 tester.

You can get the flash codes though. I can send you a pdf file showing how to do it if you want to pm me with your email address.

[celica-group-A]

Chris

Its from around the time the RAV 4.2 was face lifted to round spotlights. Even those with OBDII sockets did not detect the protocol - I think they were a convenient way of connecting the Toyota DLC3 tester.

You can get the flash codes though. I can send you a pdf file showing how to do it if you want to pm me with your email address.

Hello,

While searching how to get diagnostic codes for my 2004 Corolla 115 D4D, I found this intersting forum.

I have the same toubles as described before:

sometimes engine light is on, and I have a big loss of power.

I can't read the diagnostic codes with my ELM327 OBDII interface, although it is supposed to be compatible! It says that there is shortcut in the car's OBD bus...

So I would be very intersted if Anchorman could send me the pdf file showing how to get the flash codes, if it's possible on my car.

Many thanks if anyone can help me!

[anchorman]

Chris

Its from around the time the RAV 4.2 was face lifted to round spotlights. Even those with OBDII sockets did not detect the protocol - I think they were a convenient way of connecting the Toyota DLC3 tester.

You can get the flash codes though. I can send you a pdf file showing how to do it if you want to pm me with your email address.

Hello,

While searching how to get diagnostic codes for my 2004 Corolla 115 D4D, I found this intersting forum.

I have the same toubles as described before:

sometimes engine light is on, and I have a big loss of power.

I can't read the diagnostic codes with my ELM327 OBDII interface, although it is supposed to be compatible! It says that there is shortcut in the car's OBD bus...

So I would be very intersted if Anchorman could send me the pdf file showing how to get the flash codes, if it's possible on my car.

Many thanks if anyone can help me!

Look at section 2 here;

DTC_read_0004.pdf

[celica-group-A]

Thanks for this!

Is the SST 09843-18040 a simple wire to connect the terminals?

[anchorman]

Thanks for this!

Is the SST 09843-18040 a simple wire to connect the terminals?

Yes - posh name isn't it!!!

[saffron]

Thanks Anchorman,

I'll run through the tests and see if that identifies an issue.

Hello

First time on the site with the exact fault as you have stated bringing me here (loss of power and engine light). Pulling over and turning off the engine clears the fault until it decides to re-occur. I've paid two toyota garages to diagnose fault and findings are code 34 and estimate of £2K for Toyota to fix (quoting new turbo).

I'm no mechanic but technically competent and having removed and inspected the turbo I reluctantly decided to get a refurb done on my Turbo at Midland Turbo. Had the refurbed turbo refitted and not surprising the same fault returned within half a mile.

Would be good to hear whether you've had any joy using Anchorman's pressure valve diagnostic process.

Anchorman

Just in case no reply from Codswallop, would be good to also receive the electric diagnostics process.

Thank for any help received.

Patko.

Of course mate - just pm me with your email address as they come as pdf's

And while I'm at it - welcome to the club.

Hi there,

I'm new to the site and have a 2005 2.2d 3 door Rav4 (with round spotlights) bought from new and has given 40000 miles troublrefree motoring.

A day before it was due for its 40,000 service it started "missing" under full acelleration. The Toyota main dealer said the code readout was turbo overpressure and was due to fuel contamination but after 2 changes of fuel filter and several tanks of diesel the problem has got worse with the engine shutting down and the engine management light coming on. Restarting cures the problem and momentarilly disconnecting the Battery resets the engine management light until the next harsh acelleration. Driven gently the car performs normally.

I have performed the electrical checks on the scv's and vcv's as per shown on this site and all seems well. The dealer wants to drain the tank, flush through etc but from your information here I don't think this is the problem and I will end up being charged 2 grand for a new turbocharger.

Is the only way forward to buy one by one replacement sensors until the the problem one is found?

Also, I found that by disconnecting the turbo pressure sensor cured the problem but of course reduced performance. Is there any significance in this?

Thanks for any advice you can give

[anchorman]

Thanks Anchorman,

I'll run through the tests and see if that identifies an issue.

Hello

First time on the site with the exact fault as you have stated bringing me here (loss of power and engine light). Pulling over and turning off the engine clears the fault until it decides to re-occur. I've paid two toyota garages to diagnose fault and findings are code 34 and estimate of £2K for Toyota to fix (quoting new turbo).

I'm no mechanic but technically competent and having removed and inspected the turbo I reluctantly decided to get a refurb done on my Turbo at Midland Turbo. Had the refurbed turbo refitted and not surprising the same fault returned within half a mile.

Would be good to hear whether you've had any joy using Anchorman's pressure valve diagnostic process.

Anchorman

Just in case no reply from Codswallop, would be good to also receive the electric diagnostics process.

Thank for any help received.

Patko.

Of course mate - just pm me with your email address as they come as pdf's

And while I'm at it - welcome to the club.

Hi there,

I'm new to the site and have a 2005 2.2d 3 door Rav4 (with round spotlights) bought from new and has given 40000 miles troublrefree motoring.

A day before it was due for its 40,000 service it started "missing" under full acelleration. The Toyota main dealer said the code readout was turbo overpressure and was due to fuel contamination but after 2 changes of fuel filter and several tanks of diesel the problem has got worse with the engine shutting down and the engine management light coming on. Restarting cures the problem and momentarilly disconnecting the Battery resets the engine management light until the next harsh acelleration. Driven gently the car performs normally.

I have performed the electrical checks on the scv's and vcv's as per shown on this site and all seems well. The dealer wants to drain the tank, flush through etc but from your information here I don't think this is the problem and I will end up being charged 2 grand for a new turbocharger.

Is the only way forward to buy one by one replacement sensors until the the problem one is found?

Also, I found that by disconnecting the turbo pressure sensor cured the problem but of course reduced performance. Is there any significance in this?

Thanks for any advice you can give

Welcome to the club.

This is the VSV which regulates the turbo pressure so I would give this a good looking at;

vsv.pdf

........and this shows ho to test it;

vsv_test.pdf

They are located just near the RH side of the intercooler as you look under the bonnet. While you are at it, just check the vac pipe to the turbo vac unit for leaks and try to make sure that the linkage is working and free.

[saffron]

Thanks anchorman for the VSV info. Continuity checked out ok at 41 ohms and there is no continuity from either terminal to the body.

There is, however, a small but definite air flow from port e to g on your diagram and no flow to the filter.

I have not yet been able to perform the last check with a Battery connected as I do not have a suitable connector at the moment. I did try it connected back up to the engine with the ignition on and there was no flow to the filter but not sure if current would be flowing under static conditions. I will rig something up to do the test as per your diagram. Presumably it needs the current of the car Battery to operate the solonoid?

Many thanks again for your help

[anchorman]

Thanks anchorman for the VSV info. Continuity checked out ok at 41 ohms and there is no continuity from either terminal to the body.

There is, however, a small but definite air flow from port e to g on your diagram and no flow to the filter.

I have not yet been able to perform the last check with a battery connected as I do not have a suitable connector at the moment. I did try it connected back up to the engine with the ignition on and there was no flow to the filter but not sure if current would be flowing under static conditions. I will rig something up to do the test as per your diagram. Presumably it needs the current of the car battery to operate the solonoid?

Many thanks again for your help

Yes, they are just asking for a 12v supply to test.

[saffron]

Thanks anchorman for the VSV info. Continuity checked out ok at 41 ohms and there is no continuity from either terminal to the body.

There is, however, a small but definite air flow from port e to g on your diagram and no flow to the filter.

I have not yet been able to perform the last check with a battery connected as I do not have a suitable connector at the moment. I did try it connected back up to the engine with the ignition on and there was no flow to the filter but not sure if current would be flowing under static conditions. I will rig something up to do the test as per your diagram. Presumably it needs the current of the car battery to operate the solonoid?

Many thanks again for your help

Yes, they are just asking for a 12v supply to test.

[saffron]

Thanks Anchorman,

Have now completed the 4 tests you specified. Tests 1,2 for resistance and insulation from body and test 4 with Battery connected check out as per your data sheet. Test 3 did show some air flow from port e to port g contary to the data sheet . Is this sufficient grounds for replacing the VSV?

As always, thanks for any guidance you can give

[raverchris]

Hello again

Since the last post I have checked again. The fault code 34 has now changed into fault code 97.

I have checked the SCV's with help from Rupert's excellent post. I did find the connectors difficult to remove in the limited space and eventually resorted to using a large flat bled screwdriver in one hand to gently lever the connector the forward, whilst squeezing the release mechanism with the other hand. Once started it was the relatively easy to wiggle the connector about whilst pulling it.

Anyway both SCV's seem OK. No short circuit to earth and 1.5ohms between pins @10deg C in each case.

I also pulled apart and remade a few other connectors and in the vague hope of spotting some connector problem.

Thanks to your earlier info Anchorman which points to an EDU malfunction. If the EDU malfunctions do you think its possible for it to display an unallocated flash code like 34?

Any ideas where I should go from here? (Apart from down the pub while I still have some money in my pocket)

If suspect the answer is on this site somewhere but I just haven't seen it, so if someone could point me in the right direction I will be eternally grateful.

Just bear in mind that the electrical side of the SCV's can be ok but the mechanical side is not so will still give the problem even though the electrical side checks out ok. This was the case with mine - electrical checks all ok but not mechanically. Changed them and cured the problem. No idea if you can check the mechanical side of ths SCVs before replacing them?

Took the words right out of my mouth! No quick way of testing the physical side I'm afraid unless you have something for checking fuel rail pressure. A specialist might help or you'll have to take a chance.

RAV was becoming difficult to start and at long last after limping back 200 miles from Cornwall I decided to something about it and bought a pair of SCVs from the Parts King. Very helpful info from Rupert. It took me about 3 hours, mainly because of the flexible fuel line that kept getting in the way of the back SCV and nudging my Allen key or driver into inaccessible places to be retrieved with a magnet. Good tip on doing the difficult one first, while I still had the patience, the second one was a breeze and took about 10 mins.

I must say, I still had my doubts that this would cure the problem (pessimist), but lo and behold, started first tiime - problem gone - 10% improvement in fuel consumption

Thanks again Anchorman for pointing me in the right direction, Kingo for the excellent service, and Rupert for your useful article.

[anchorman]

Glad you are sorted

[saffron]

Glad you are sorted

Hi there,

After putting up with the same "missing" and "limp mode" problem for months and performing the electrical continuity and isolation tests I was encouraged by raverchris's post to solve the problem as he did by replacing the SCV's. Ordered them from PartsKing and recieved two days later (great service) and fitted them following Rupert's excellent post on how to do it.

Result is no change, problem still exists. I have also checked the VSV's as per Anchorman's pdf file TC-24 and all seems ok except on test number 4 which says air should NOT flow from port e to port G when de-energised which on my valve it does. Should the instruction read SHOULD flow from e to g when de-denergised as the drawing clearly shows or do I have a faulty VSV?

Also, I now have a pair of used (40,000 miles) SCV's but proven servicable if anyone wants them.

As always, thanks for any help anyone can give

[anchorman]

If it goes into limp mode you should be getting an error code. Just remind me what it is?

[saffron]

If it goes into limp mode you should be getting an error code. Just remind me what it is?

Anchorman, many thanks for your prompt response. I don't have a code reader but when the problem first appeared I took it to a Toyota dealer who said the fault code was Turbo overpressure, but suspected contaminated fuel was the problem. I've had numerous tanks of fuel and changed the fuel filter twice since then so it can't be that.