D4d Obdii

[saffron]

If it goes into limp mode you should be getting an error code. Just remind me what it is?

Anchorman, many thanks for your prompt response. I don't have a code reader but when the problem first appeared I took it to a Toyota dealer who said the fault code was Turbo overpressure, but suspected contaminated fuel was the problem. I've had numerous tanks of fuel and changed the fuel filter twice since then so it can't be that.

Anchorman, any thoughts on my reply to your question above about the error code?

Thanks in advance

[anchorman]

I think you should get a code reader (type U480 into ebay) and check it. I don't see how contaminated fuel can cause it as the sytem will vent surplus pressure regardless of what has caused it. Lets be sure of the code and then I will post the pdf's with the test and rectification procedures.

Cheers

[saffron]

I think you should get a code reader (type U480 into ebay) and check it. I don't see how contaminated fuel can cause it as the sytem will vent surplus pressure regardless of what has caused it. Lets be sure of the code and then I will post the pdf's with the test and rectification procedures.

Cheers

Thank Anchorman, will do and advise soonest.

[Alex-malta]

I think you should get a code reader (type U480 into ebay) and check it. I don't see how contaminated fuel can cause it as the sytem will vent surplus pressure regardless of what has caused it. Lets be sure of the code and then I will post the pdf's with the test and rectification procedures.

Cheers

Thank Anchorman, will do and advise soonest.

hi there,

I have been experiencing the same problem. I replaced the SCV's and I must admit that there was an increase in power from the car, as well as better starting of the engine. This notwithstanding I have not solved the problem and i am still experiencing the intermittent errors. The VSV problem seems very interesting as thats what the mechanic thought at first (he tried to blow into it to see if it works.) The error i am getting is P1251. We have a problem with contaminated fuel as well (and being small we have only two or three improters of fuel) but I have talked to many rav owners locally and no-one seems to complain. It's logical that if I get faults due to contaminated fuel someone else on the island is to get it as well.

Whatever the problem is I recomend that you do not change the turbo. I got mine cleaned up and reconditioned (labour here is not that expensive) but it didnt solve the problem.

I also cleaned the hot wire sensor but didn't make a difference.

Hope to test it this evening and will tell u about it.

cu

alex

[raverchris]

I think you should get a code reader (type U480 into ebay) and check it. I don't see how contaminated fuel can cause it as the sytem will vent surplus pressure regardless of what has caused it. Lets be sure of the code and then I will post the pdf's with the test and rectification procedures.

Cheers

Thank Anchorman, will do and advise soonest.

hi there,

I have been experiencing the same problem. I replaced the SCV's and I must admit that there was an increase in power from the car, as well as better starting of the engine. This notwithstanding I have not solved the problem and i am still experiencing the intermittent errors. The VSV problem seems very interesting as thats what the mechanic thought at first (he tried to blow into it to see if it works.) The error i am getting is P1251. We have a problem with contaminated fuel as well (and being small we have only two or three improters of fuel) but I have talked to many rav owners locally and no-one seems to complain. It's logical that if I get faults due to contaminated fuel someone else on the island is to get it as well.

Whatever the problem is I recomend that you do not change the turbo. I got mine cleaned up and reconditioned (labour here is not that expensive) but it didnt solve the problem.

I also cleaned the hot wire sensor but didn't make a difference.

Hope to test it this evening and will tell u about it.

cu

alex

Hi Guys

Guess what - after a few thousand miles of trouble free motoring the engine light is back again.

I have manually downloaded the codes using the flash method (earlier help from Anchorman) and they are:

34 (which doesn't seem to exist), 97, and 78.

I'm thinking, hopefully, of a bad connection in the SCV circuit. In changing the SCV's, did I disturb something in the wiring/connectors that corrected the problem for a while?

As soon as I've had a look I'll report back, but it might be a while - the problem with waiting for intermittent things to go wrong.

....and if anyone knows anything about code 34 (great title for a novel) please let me know.

Cheers for now

chris

[in_the_no]

CODE 34 exhists but i have removed it, fed up of assisting for others to KNOCK.

[Alex-malta]

CODE 34 exhists :hokus-pokus:

Hi I tried the VSV.

Apperently air flows form point E to g or vice versa i'm not sure but anyways I'm going to order one from parts king. about 65sterling. very easy job to replace -

btw the error I got was P1251 - something to do with step motor for turbo

Hope it works!! will keep u posted.

I was reading other threads - could it be the injectors??

[raverchris]

CODE 34 exhists :hokus-pokus:

<Many thanks for that - I guess a poke around under the bonnet is in order.

[saffron]

Hi,

Since my last post on Nov 25th and following recommendations from Anchor man, I have found the cause of my " engine missing, management light coming on and going into limp mode" problem which turned out to be the VSV. It seems that even the smallest detectable leak of air from port e to port g when de-energised is enough to cause the problem, otherwise the valve checked out ok.

While waiting delivery of a new valve, and figuring that some lubrication couldn't do any harm I sprayed WD40 into all 3 ports and took the car for a test drive. The problem disappeared and the engine rev'd freely well above 4000 when previously it would not go above 2000.

I'm sure this won't be a permanent fix but so far, after about 1500 miles it is still working ok so I am holding off fitting the new valve for a while. Hope this info helps others and again, many thanks to Anchorman for guidance

[anchorman]

Good work saffron and full marks for your tenacity. With a bit of luck you may well have solved one of the most popular RAV problems and other will indeed benefit.

[codswallop]

Hi,

Since my last post on Nov 25th and following recommendations from Anchor man, I have found the cause of my " engine missing, management light coming on and going into limp mode" problem which turned out to be the VSV. It seems that even the smallest detectable leak of air from port e to port g when de-energised is enough to cause the problem, otherwise the valve checked out ok.

While waiting delivery of a new valve, and figuring that some lubrication couldn't do any harm I sprayed WD40 into all 3 ports and took the car for a test drive. The problem disappeared and the engine rev'd freely well above 4000 when previously it would not go above 2000.

I'm sure this won't be a permanent fix but so far, after about 1500 miles it is still working ok so I am holding off fitting the new valve for a while. Hope this info helps others and again, many thanks to Anchorman for guidance

Hi Saffron, is your car still running ok after lubricating the VSV ? I have similar issues on wife's car, has had new SCV's, fuel filter, EGR clean etc etc, so keen to see if VSV could be issue?

[codswallop]

I've tested my VSV and I get considerable air flow from port E to port G (without 12v to the terminals), which suggests it is faulty. With 12v applied I can hear it click and air then flows out of the filter as per test.

With nothing to lose I managed to carefully disassemble the VSV by removing it from the metal bracket and pulling port G from the plastic body. Inside is just a metal cup and a spring (nothing complicated). The metal cup has rubber inside and at the front that I guess should block the flow from E to G, but for whatever reason mine doesnt. I cleaned everything up and put it back together and retested, with the same results as above. I plugged everything back in and went for a test drive.

On the test drive I noticed a whistling sound on partial throttle, which wasnt there before and is different to the 'woosh' sound of the turbo. The car did seem to drive better though, and the 'notch' in power I usually experience at about 2500rpm had gone.

I think I'll invest in a new VSV (been quoted 50.25+vat) and see how that goes.

[codswallop]

I've tested my VSV and I get considerable air flow from port E to port G (without 12v to the terminals), which suggests it is faulty. With 12v applied I can hear it click and air then flows out of the filter as per test.

With nothing to lose I managed to carefully disassemble the VSV by removing it from the metal bracket and pulling port G from the plastic body. Inside is just a metal cup and a spring (nothing complicated). The metal cup has rubber inside and at the front that I guess should block the flow from E to G, but for whatever reason mine doesnt. I cleaned everything up and put it back together and retested, with the same results as above. I plugged everything back in and went for a test drive.

On the test drive I noticed a whistling sound on partial throttle, which wasnt there before and is different to the 'woosh' sound of the turbo. The car did seem to drive better though, and the 'notch' in power I usually experience at about 2500rpm had gone.

I think I'll invest in a new VSV (been quoted 50.25+vat) and see how that goes.

I've been thinking about the operation of the VSV. I may well be wrong, but I have suspicions the test instructions are wrong. Basically the cup can block port Y (without voltage) or port G with voltage, I cant see how it can block both at the same time. Without voltage applied the spring pushes the cup against port Y, leaving G unblocked and hence air will travel from E to G. With voltage applied, the cup is pulled up against port G, leaving Y unblocked and hence air will now flow from E to Y. This is what I observe, but not what the test instructions suggest.

I'll try and draw up something to show what I mean.

[anchorman]

4.3_vsv.pdf

I think you are right cw - somebody mentioned it before. I imagine you can work out what should be happening though? Are you sure the cup can't block the ports by being at one end and closing the other? I will find the 4.3 one and see what that says.

[saffron]

I've tested my VSV and I get considerable air flow from port E to port G (without 12v to the terminals), which suggests it is faulty. With 12v applied I can hear it click and air then flows out of the filter as per test.

With nothing to lose I managed to carefully disassemble the VSV by removing it from the metal bracket and pulling port G from the plastic body. Inside is just a metal cup and a spring (nothing complicated). The metal cup has rubber inside and at the front that I guess should block the flow from E to G, but for whatever reason mine doesnt. I cleaned everything up and put it back together and retested, with the same results as above. I plugged everything back in and went for a test drive.

On the test drive I noticed a whistling sound on partial throttle, which wasnt there before and is different to the 'woosh' sound of the turbo. The car did seem to drive better though, and the 'notch' in power I usually experience at about 2500rpm had gone.

I think I'll invest in a new VSV (been quoted 50.25+vat) and see how that goes.

I've been thinking about the operation of the VSV. I may well be wrong, but I have suspicions the test instructions are wrong. Basically the cup can block port Y (without voltage) or port G with voltage, I cant see how it can block both at the same time. Without voltage applied the spring pushes the cup against port Y, leaving G unblocked and hence air will travel from E to G. With voltage applied, the cup is pulled up against port G, leaving Y unblocked and hence air will now flow from E to Y. This is what I observe, but not what the test instructions suggest.

I'll try and draw up something to show what I mean.

Hi Codswallop,

In my post of Nov 15th I too raised the possibility that the test procedure for the VSV was wrong but did not receive any feedback on it and did not disassemble the valve to check as you have.

Shortly after checking the fault codes which indicated turbo overpressure, I had occasion to accelerate very hard unexpectedly and found that the fault had momentarily disappeared. I immediately repeated the VSV check and found that there was NO detectable flow from port E to G when de-energised where previously there was, suggesting that the test procedure is correct as shown. The fault subsequently returned soon after and another test showed flow WAS detected from E to G as previously found . I ordered a new VSV but tried the WD 40 in the meantime which seemed to cure it. I did give it a precautionary squirt of WD 40 as a matter of course whenever I had the bonnet up to check oil or water etc. Interestingly, when squirted with WD 40 into port E it comes out of the other 2 ports simultaneously.

I am still using the original VSV as the RAV has been performing Ok and so returned the new VSV. Hence I can't check the test on a new one.

Hope this helps.

[anchorman]

Sounds like a pretty good solution to me saffron!!!

Cheap too.

[codswallop]

Thanks for your replies guys. Its interesting to see that the later VSV you have posted has no 'G' Port.

I've done a couple of very rough sketches of the VSV valce in the 'de-energized' and 'energized' positions. Hopefully you can see why I think the air flow is not quite as described in the VSV test. I guess I need to get a new one to test properly, but due to being rather ill I haven't yet been able to get out of the house again.

As you can see, in the de-engerized state, air flows from E to G - passing around the side of the 'cup', which is not a tight fit in the bore, as it does need to slide backward/forward. In the energized state air flows from E to Y.

[saffron]

Thanks for your replies guys. Its interesting to see that the later VSV you have posted has no 'G' Port.

I've done a couple of very rough sketches of the VSV valce in the 'de-energized' and 'energized' positions. Hopefully you can see why I think the air flow is not quite as described in the VSV test. I guess I need to get a new one to test properly, but due to being rather ill I haven't yet been able to get out of the house again.

As you can see, in the de-engerized state, air flows from E to G - passing around the side of the 'cup', which is not a tight fit in the bore, as it does need to slide backward/forward. In the energized state air flows from E to Y.

Hi CW,

Just to let you know that the fault on the Rav is back. I was accelerating in 4th up a mild incline and the EML came on and engine shut down into limp mode. It restarted Ok and I checked the VSV when I got back.

Test results showed airflow just as per the drawings in your last post ie: flow from e to g de-energised and vice versa. If, as your diagrams suggest, that this flow IS correct, and contrary to the test procedure, then maybe something other than the VSV is causing the problem. It can’t be the SCV’s as I have changed these to no effect and yet the VSV lubrication did solve the problem for a while so I am unsure where to go from here.

Hope you feel better soon

[mickboy]

Hello guys.....Just to add to all the confusion I have had similar problems with turbo operation on my 4.2 4D4 where the turbo would cut out and only way to it get going again was to take the electrical connector off the vsv and then refit it while the engine ticked over, or switch off and then restart, this reinstated the turbo.

I also checked the vsv as per the manual and got leakage as described. I bought a new one (courtersy of Kingo) about 3 months ago but checking it before I fitted it found that it was exactly the same as far the leakage test went but I fitted it anyway, the fault has occured a couple times since.

I assume the vsv is a solenoid operated valve and as I never throw anything away I'll have a look at its insides, maybe WD 40 will cure it...... ;)

[codswallop]

I bought the new VSV over the weekend, and can confirm as per mickboy, that the new one does exactly the same as the old one (i.e. air does flow from port E to port G). So I think we can safely say the VSV test instructions are wrong. I have now fitted the new one, so will see if we get any more 'limp modes' with this one.

Hello guys.....Just to add to all the confusion I have had similar problems with turbo operation on my 4.2 4D4 where the turbo would cut out and only way to it get going again was to take the electrical connector off the vsv and then refit it while the engine ticked over, or switch off and then restart, this reinstated the turbo.

I also checked the vsv as per the manual and got leakage as described. I bought a new one (courtersy of Kingo) about 3 months ago but checking it before I fitted it found that it was exactly the same as far the leakage test went but I fitted it anyway, the fault has occured a couple times since.

I assume the vsv is a solenoid operated valve and as I never throw anything away I'll have a look at its insides, maybe WD 40 will cure it...... ;)

[celica-group-A]

Chris

Its from around the time the RAV 4.2 was face lifted to round spotlights. Even those with OBDII sockets did not detect the protocol - I think they were a convenient way of connecting the Toyota DLC3 tester.

You can get the flash codes though. I can send you a pdf file showing how to do it if you want to pm me with your email address.

Hi,

I Know I reply to an old post, but I had no answer by starting a new topic...

Anchorman, you say that it is possible to get flascodes if i can't use te OBD protocol? I have a 2004 Corolla D4D 116, And I tryed 2 different OBDII scantools, but with no success, unless they works with other cars...

Can you send the pdf file, if it is applicable to my car?

Thanks

[anchorman]

Chris

Its from around the time the RAV 4.2 was face lifted to round spotlights. Even those with OBDII sockets did not detect the protocol - I think they were a convenient way of connecting the Toyota DLC3 tester.

You can get the flash codes though. I can send you a pdf file showing how to do it if you want to pm me with your email address.

Hi,

I Know I reply to an old post, but I had no answer by starting a new topic...

Anchorman, you say that it is possible to get flascodes if i can't use te OBD protocol? I have a 2004 Corolla D4D 116, And I tryed 2 different OBDII scantools, but with no success, unless they works with other cars...

Can you send the pdf file, if it is applicable to my car?

Thanks

DTC read 0004.pdf

[celica-group-A]

Thanks for this document, Anchorman!

Though, I can't see the list of the trouble codes obtainable with flash-light (it's written "see page DI-14", but your document stops at DI-13).

Are the Trouble codes obtained with flash-light (flashcodes) the same as those obtained with a diag tool? I don't think so, because diag trouble codes are something like Pxxxx, and flascodes are only two numbers, as it was on my old Celica.

I have purchased two different diag tools, and they works on others cars, but not with my Corolla! The OBD-connector seems OK, because when I go to Toyota garage, they can connect their special toyota tool. Do you know if there has been a special protocol with 2004 toyotas?

I'm trying to remain autonomous with my cars, I never go to a garage for maintenance or repair, but it's getting more and more difficult!

Thanks for all,