Aygo Knowledgebase

[+Steve]

as promised i have added them paul

thanks so much for your time and effort in this.

Aygo Club Knowledgebase

We will welcome any other articles from all members and credit you in the article.

[adilmon]

as promised i have added them paul

thanks so much for your time and effort in this.

Aygo Club Knowledgebase

We will welcome any other articles from all members and credit you in the article.

Hi,

I made this HOW TO with the Aygo knowledge base in mind.

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=88972

Please can you add it also? Good Luck with the move :)

[+Steve]

i will try and add this. May not be today. but a pleasure to have more articles.

Any chance you could add it to this thread so i can catch up with it as i am following this thread?

cheers

[adilmon]

Hi,

I changed the front brake discs and pads on my Aygo and was surprised at how simple it was. Naturally, (disclaimer here) I accept no responsibility for your actions on a safety critical part blah blah blah.

Anyway. Brake overview

The Aygo front brakes consist of a caliper, which holds the brake piston and a cradle, which hold the pads and supports the caliper. The bolts holding the caliper to the cradle can slide left and right, which is why its called a floating caliper. The discs are 20mm wide when new and the wear limit is 18mm

Tools needed:

-Copper grease

-Wire brush

-13mm socket

-17mm socket

-T25 star bit

-Methylated spirit or brake cleaner and a clean rag

-Rubber mallet (optional)

-G Clamp

-Torque wrench (not essential)

[adilmon]

Here's the discs & pads, supplied by Apec

Apply the handbrake and chock the rear wheels. Use the jack to take the weight of the car slightly and use the 17mm socket to loosen the wheel bolts while the wheel is still on the ground. In the below picture you can see I needed to remove some aftermarket chrome wheel bolt covers

[adilmon]

With the alloy wheel removed, you can see the Caliper, cradle and disc clearly

The 13mm bolt with the rubber boot is the one holding the caliper. There are 2 bolts, which are not done up very tightly (30Nm). This pic has the socket hanging off it

Here's a picture with the caliper partially removed, revealing the brake pads underneath

[adilmon]

Once the caliper is removed, hang it up out of the way on the suspension. Be careful to avoid twisting or putting strain on the brake pipe

The Brake pads are held in place by small spring clips and can be easily pulled away by hand. (2 pads per disc)

I measured the discs, which were at 18.2mm. It still had a 20% life left, but I wanted them changed before the winter. The pads had 50% life left. The original discs (made by Bosch) must have been made from a relatively soft metal

Next use the 17mm socket to remove the cradle. This is done up very tightly (88Nm). You will find it helpful to turn the steering wheel to make room for your tools. Here you can see the bottom bolt has been loosened and the top one has the socket hangin off it

[adilmon]

Now prepare the caliper by taking the G clamp (this one is from a £1 shop) and push the piston back into the caliper. This is because the new pads will be wider than the ones you have removed

The Disc has a positioning screw, which holds it to the hub. Use your T25 bit to remove it. If the postioning screw it difficult to remove the disc will turn as you try to undo it. Put the car into 1st gear to stop the disc rotating. The disc is usually corroded onto the hub, so you will probably need the rubber mallet to encourage it off.

Clean the hub and new disc with methylated spirit

[adilmon]

Apply some copper grease to the hub to make the disc easier to remove in future

New disc attached using to T25 positioning screw (5Nm). Make sure no grease is anywhere on this. If in doubt, clean it again... twice

Even though these pads had anti squeal plates on the back (the side with the part numbers) apply some copper grease sparingly

[adilmon]

Bolt the cradle back on very tightly (88Nm). Slide in the pads onto their clips and push them up against the disc. Bolt the caliper back on (30Nm). Again, ensure that no grease has touched the disc or the friction material of the pads

To make the wheel easier to remove, add copper grease to it's mating surface. I used copper grease from a spray can. Don't apply the disc's mating surface, because you'll risk contaminating the important bits with grease.

Bolt the wheel back on, lower the car and you're done. The tightening torque is 103Nm, which is very tight. Tighten the opposing Bolts (eg, left-right, top-bottom)

Note: With the other side of the car there wasn't much clearance for the G Clamp and it wouldn't go into the piston straight. So I used a large socket as a shim. Pushed the piston back, problem solved

Like all brakes, the pads will need to bed in. This means no heavy braking for the first 200 miles. There should be absolutely no vibration through the steering wheel while braking. BTW, if you brake while your foot is on the accelarator (aka left foot braking), the engine check light will come on