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Lock God Damn You!


mattydread
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Hi.

AMAZINGLY IT WILL WORK. ) AND WITH A PROCESS OF ELIMINATION ( CONNECTING 1 WIRE AT A TIME UNTIL YOU HAVE 2 WIRES LEFT NOT CONNECTED ) IT ALL ACTUALLY WORKS

Could you please tell us what wires needs to be disconnected?

I hate to invent the wheel again...

DIsconnect the thin one on the five pin plug to the drivers door lock.

Paul

http://peaveydrums.moonfruit.com/

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  • 1 month later...

My central locking on my avensis is driving me crazy. The problem varies with the ambient temperature. During the recent cold snap the central locking unlocks itself after a short peroid (approx 2 minutes). This problem varies with the temperature. If it is below freezing I can lock the car with the remote but cannot open also the system unlocks itself. If the temperature rises above freezing it does not unlock itself but cannot unlock it using the remote. If the temperature rises even further then the system works perfectly. When the system is not working properly then the immobiliser flashing light does not operate. I have replace remote batteries and re syncronised. HELP

stuart

I have a similar ambient temp prob on my 98 Avensis. Jap cars used to be spot on when it came to central locking. *sigh* When it gets cold only some of my doors will open. Warmer weather... and its spot on. The other night after unlocking the car I went to scrape the frost from the windscreen and when I went to get back in the car the handle did nothing. It lifted, but the door would not open. My lady friend tried opening it from the inside but it would not work either so I had to clamber in the back door and squeeze into the front much to the mirth of aforementioned female.

I locked the door with the anti jack button then unlocked it and the door opened. I have not had a look at it all as yet and dived on here to see if anyone had some answers. Sounds to me the solenoids are weak in the colder weather. Its an utter pain in the *****. On other occasions I have come out in the morning and found all the doors to be unlocked and I could swear blind I locked them!

Seems to me there are a lot of variations of this problem going on what I have read so far on the board. Does anyone here actually work for Toyota and can clarify if the door solenoids are known to go weak on them?

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  • 2 weeks later...

:thumbsup::eek: [COLOR=red]I FOLLOWED EXACTLY WHAT YOU SAID AND EVEN FOUND THE 2 LOCKING BARREL LIMIT SWITCH WIRES, ( BY CUTTING EVERY WIRE LEADING TOWARDS THE PLASTIC PLUG IN WIRE HOLDER WHICH CONNECTS TO THE DOOR LOCKING MECHANISM, TO FIND THIS JUST FOLLOW THE 5 WIRES FROM THE DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW / CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING CONSOLE WHICH YOU REMOVE WHEN YOU TAKE THE DOOR PANEL OFF. ONCE YOU REMOVE THIS PLUG IN PLASTIC WIRE HOLDER FROM THE DOOR LOCKING MECHANISM TEST YOUR REMOTE LOCKING AND UNLOCKING ON YOUR KEY FOB. AMAZINGLY IT WILL WORK. ) AND WITH A PROCESS OF ELIMINATION ( CONNECTING 1 WIRE AT A TIME UNTIL YOU HAVE 2 WIRES LEFT NOT CONNECTED ) IT ALL ACTUALLY WORKS. CENTRAL LOCKING AGAIN FROM THE KEY FOB. AFTER 7 MONTHS OF MAYHEM PEACE IS RESTORED. A MILLION THANKS TO S. J. RAINSFORD FOR HIS EXPERT ADVICE. POSTED HERE.

This sounds quite complicated to my tiny little mind but I'm willing to give it a shot and hope that all becomes clear once I have the doorcard off.

Mine started playing up when I replaced the Battery. Perhaps like the other fella it's just a 7.5a fuse (I'd be so lucky!) I'll check that before I start taking things apart. So will the wire thing work even if the solenoid is shot? God I'd love to fix this :ffs:

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:thumbsup:

Blown 7.5A fuse- replaced - sorted.

Any idea what fuse this may have been!? And is there an easy way to get the !Removed! things out???

hi to all

this is quite a common problem on avensis normally happens after changing the batteries, or for no apparent reason, you must check that the interior light is working and that the connection on the fob are touching the top of the battery. in the fuse box in the engine compartment there is a white or cream coloured fuse remove that for 5-10 seconds the reinstall if this failt you will have to reprogramme the remote i will post how to do this soon

rgds

j

I can't find a white or cream relay....

Just checked both 7.5A fuses and they're fine...

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I've had no joy with this. I'm seriously ****** about it and if I can't sort it myself gunna get rid of the !Removed! thing!

Now the central locking makes no sound whatsoever when I use the key fob to "lock or unlock" the doors. It won't lock or unlock the hazards just flash.

What is worng with it? Please tell me. So many people have this problem yet there is no conclusion as to what it is exactly. Reading through this thread it does seem likely that it is the solenoid is there anyway I can test this before I fork out for a new one?

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Right. I've tried removing the creamy coloured fuse in the underbonnet fuse box for a while & removing the intergration relay for a while; no joy.

I've been reading through the forum archives and it appears that it could be the drivers door locking mechanism, as when I unlock my door with the key the others remain locked.

However the concerning thing is that there is no sound when I use the fob. I presume the solenoid is okay because it all works on the master switch on the drivers door.

So perhaps I'll order a door locking mechanism...

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My central locking on my avensis is driving me crazy. The problem varies with the ambient temperature. During the recent cold snap the central locking unlocks itself after a short peroid (approx 2 minutes). This problem varies with the temperature. If it is below freezing I can lock the car with the remote but cannot open also the system unlocks itself. If the temperature rises above freezing it does not unlock itself but cannot unlock it using the remote. If the temperature rises even further then the system works perfectly. When the system is not working properly then the immobiliser flashing light does not operate. I have replace remote batteries and re syncronised. HELP

stuart

Hi Stuart,

I am having a similar problem to the one you had a while back.

Any advice on how to fix this with detailed instructions please, as the mechanics seem to be going on a merry go round. Please help as I am able to unlock but not lock with the fob.

Your help wold be much appreciated.

Thanks and regards

S

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  • 2 months later...

Just got this problem myself and am about to have a crack at it. Unfortunately you dont seem to be able to upload pics here, but if I sort it I'll take a pic and host it somewhere else.

My problem in short : 1999 CDX - Car locks with keyfob, but doesn't unlock, opening the door with the key sets the alarm off. :ffs:

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  • 4 weeks later...
DIsconnect the thin one on the five pin plug to the drivers door lock.

Paul

Thanks Paul (Tweeks).

It actually works now.

After three weeks of not being able to lock the doors from the remotekey, I decided I should give it a try a few weeks ago.

I cut the wire and now it works again.

I'm a strong beliver in that it was my operation that did it and not just a coincident. ;-)

For anyone else who'd like to give it a try, here's a short description:

Remove the inside cover from the drivers door;

1 hidden screw inside the dooropener

1 hidden screw in bottom of handle on the inside, just below the buttons on the armrest)

[Remove the buttonpanel by lifting in rear and pull it out to the rear]

2 hidden screws under this panel

2 golden screws on the underside of the door

3-4 plastic screws on the front of the door (snapps back in)

2 of above in the rear

Grab the door cover in the large pocket in bottom and pull it upwards.

Lift the rear end first so it's 10-20 cm raised. (Might be easier with the window down)

Then the front needs to be pulled to the rear so it's free from the triangular rear-view-mirror panel.

Volá.

Now look under the plastic cover, somewhere behind the keylock there are a collection of cables (5) that disappears inside the door, behind a lot of white plastic.

Most of these are blue with some small color marks on but there is one thinner (well, not that obviously thinner but thinner...) that doesn't look like the others.

I cut that cable and taped it to the other cables.

Now it worked to lock the door from the remote and has worked fine everytime for these two weeks.

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  • 1 month later...

:yahoo:I HAVE DONE IT!! :yahoo:

How long have I put up with this? Well my posts above were in Feb so TOO LONG is the answer to that. I'm considering selling the car now cos as much as I like it it's just too juicy, so I thought I'd better get those little jobs fixed.

How did I do it? By following the wire cutting exercise successfully tried by those above and IT DID ACTUALLY WORK! That's rare for me :blink:

Thing is you guys said the "thin one". On mine I thought the plain blue was the thinnest but it was also said the "odd one" which was the white and black. So after much deliberation I cut the white and black and hey presto it worked.

I am absolutely elated by the result. Thanks everyone :toast:

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  • 6 months later...

Hi, my problem was that on my 2001 Avensis the remote locking would not work, the hazards would flash but the central locking would ignore the command. Surprisingly remote unlocking worked and central locking using the locking control on the driver's side door worked as well, meaning that the problem is not simply in a fuse.

It seems like a little problem but this little thing drove me crazy, having to crawl from the back seat to press the central locking in the closed front driver's door as this was the only way to lock the car apart from opening every door and locking it manually (after a while I realized that I could have pressed the drivers closed door detection switch together with the central lock).

I finaly decided to try out the instructions from J. D. Rainsford - and my remote works fine now!! :yahoo: thanks to all of you, especially J.D.Rainsford for the expertise and jimmymacc, Rvall and Telson for the practical advices.

Now anyone who's going to try it: removing the inside door cover - follow Rvall's instructions, after some time you will get it done. The five or so wires are where described: on my car, all of them but one are blue with various stripes on them, just one wire is not colored with blue at all, this one wire is colored black and white (lengthwise stripes) and in fact it is thinner as well, but not so obviously. I cut this one and it works. Must have been the connection to the limit switch of the lock, as if I try using the key in the driver's door, the door locks/unclocks but does not lock/unlock other doors using the central locking. This is no problem as I can use the remote for controlling the central locking now, for both locking and unlocking.

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  • 4 months later...

Hi everyone,

I had been having most of the problems listed in earlier threads on here, crazy alarms, no alarm , no locking, locking but no unlocking.

Most of it was traced to the siren unit causing spurious alarm indications due to the back up Battery being undervoltage. I removed the siren unit and found that it was heavily corroded on the wires that feed the backup ni-cad Battery in the siren unit. The pcb inside also suffers from corrosion problems.

The not locking however was another thing. This was traced to a faulty microswitch in the drivers door lock mechanism. Ths microswitch gives a pulse to the alarm system telling it what the position of the door lock is. This microswitch can be removed from the door lock assembly and it leaves the door able to be opened by the key, but the key doesn't open the central locking.

With both the siren unit and the microswitch removed the key fobs now both arm and disarm the (now silent) alarm and lock and unlock the doors on command. Problems solved.

Please don't hesitate to contact me for any more info on tweeks at zoom.co.uk

Paul

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