Electric Aerial Problem!

[scouser johny]

picked a lovely mr2 up last week to replace our mx5,but the electric aerial doesnt work!!looked at a few before buying this one@noticed a couple of adverts saying aerial dont work@that have disconnected wires to use manually.did this yesterday(lovely job),but it seems to be siezed down.also noticed that there was a fuse missing from the fuse box in passenger side door opening,a 15 amp fuse top right fuse,said radio 2 on lid i think!!when i tried to replace this with key in ignition,it blew straight away.are these two connected@can anyone shed any light to what we need to do?read somewhere about putting a pull up aerial on??many thanks,john@karen..

[GIDDLEPIN]

Welcome to the club

Sounds like a serious short in the motor or wiring :o

Try disconnecting the plug (in the storage bin behind driver) then replace the fuse and see if it blows, if not then the motor is toast and your options will be to either replace complete or fit another type of aerial.

If it blows after disconnecting then you have a problem in the loom :shutit:

Good luck

Les

[scouser johny]

Welcome to the club

Sounds like a serious short in the motor or wiring :o

Try disconnecting the plug (in the storage bin behind driver) then replace the fuse and see if it blows, if not then the motor is toast and your options will be to either replace complete or fit another type of aerial.

If it blows after disconnecting then you have a problem in the loom :!Removed!:

Good luck

Les

ta m8,have taken the plug off the aerial itself(took arch liner out)will try again,do the aerials give problems?while i'm on,is there some issue with checking eng oil?says in book that you have to warm eng up before checking?when its cold,arent getting a reading on dipstick?

[GIDDLEPIN]

I have owned my Roadster for nearly six years now and check the oil AT LEAST twice a week, always before starting for first time.

If there is no oil showing first thing then the sump level is VERY low and should be topped up immediately

Once this is done keep a regular check to see if there is a problem ;)

There is a controversial issue regarding Pre-cats, some say they break up and destroy the engine and the first sign is excessive oil consumption (no reading on the dip stick) Personally I have never believed this, there was a piston modification around 2002/3 where larger holes were used in the oil control rings.

Below is a quote and picture from another forum showing a gummed up piston

...and removed. You can see the varnsh / gum / tar mixture that binded the rings up and caused oil usage

Nearly finished cleaning stuff up. To be continued soon.....

A prime demonstration of why a good synthetic is a good idea. I have never seen so much gunk on the inside of an engine owned by me. Having said that, I have seen a lot more on engines owned by others that I have rebuilt. Could it bet that the famous precat failure is caused by gummed oil control rings?

Chris

Wear due to piston side-load

Piston rings are subject to wear as they move up and down the cylinder bore. To minimize this, they are made of wear resistant materials such as cast iron and steel and coated or treated to enhance the wear resistance. Two-stroke port design is critical to ring life. Newer modern motorcycle manufacturers have many single function but sererated ports to retain the ring. Typically, top ring and oil control rings will be coated with Chromium, or Nitrided-possibly plasma sprayed or have a PVD (physical vapour deposit) ceramic coating. For enhanced scuff resistance and further improved wear, most modern diesel engines have top rings coated with a modified chromium coating known as CKS, a patent coating from Goetze. The lower oil control ring is designed to leave a lubricating oil film, a few micrometres thick on the bore,as the piston descends. Three piece oil rings, i.e. with two rails and one spacer, are used for four-stroke gasoline engines.

So..........

Blocked holes = No lubrication

No lubrication = Premature bore wear

Premature bore wear = Oval bores

Les