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Radio Connections On Rav4.2


Hoovie
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This may be of interest & use to people looking at doing any Audio Wiring on their RAV4 or possibly Toyotas in General.

This relates specifically to a standard RAV4.2 from 2005 fitted with a 51882 Head Unit, but with NO CD Changer and NO Sat-Nav unit, but I would think most Radio units with the same Connector set will have the same wiring.

Rear of 51882 Unit showing connectors:

DSC00806-1.jpg

This unit has 5 separate connectors. Not all connections in each connector are used.

The diagram below shows:

* which connectors are present (shown in Amber) and

* within those connectors, which have a wired connection within those connectors (shown in Green)

Toy-58812Large.jpg

Comments: The colour-coding below the connections are NOT the same as in my RAV4 and I would suspect that is the case on many/most RAV4s

If anyone has the info on what each pin does in each connector, please post them here or PM me with them and I will update the doc accordingly (if this info already exists somewhere, even better! :yes: Please post the link to it if you know where :thumbsup:

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Good work Hoovie :thumbsup:

Well, can do the easy one first - CD changer connector:-

  1. R+ (Right Audio +)
  2. L+ (Left Audio +)
  3. Sig GND (Signal Ground)
  4. Mute (Telephone, pull to ground to mute)
  5. 12V Permanent Out
  6. R- (Right Audio -)
  7. L- (Left Audio -)
  8. Ground
  9. TX- (AVC-LAN -)
  10. TX+ (AVC-LAN +)
  11. TXT?
  12. 12V ACC (Switched 12V) Out

Think the small 6 pin one is Speakers, possibly rear Speakers. I've got that info somewhere I think.

So, as I suspected, you had something else connected to the AVC-LAN.

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I am sure you are right about the 6 pin one.

Going by memory a bit here, I bought a Parrot hands Free-kit plus a Toyota-ISO-Toyota adapter and that effectively intercepted the 10 pin and (I think) 6 pin connections, so that pair is very much "standard" radio connections I reckon :)

Re CD-Connector - what I highlighted was the standard Toyota loom as far as the 2005 RAV4 goes anyway. I have a Dension Ice>Link Plus plugged into the CD-Connector - That has a Y-Connector wiring so the original wires to pins 9 and 10 are linked through to the head unit BUT that Y-connector links pin 9 on the CD-Connector to Pin 11 on that connector - Reason? No idea!

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6 pin connector:

pin 1 - Rear Right Speaker +

pin 2 - Rear Left Speaker +

pin 3 - Rear Right Speaker -

pin 6 - Rear Left Speaker -

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Getting a little more info now ....

Looking at the installation manuals for the 2-Din Wide Unit (which is what probably all UK RAV4.2s were fitted with and have NAVI and computer functionality) and the 1.4Din Unit (sort of 'tall' radio with a filler above), the 18-pin connector at the top is only used with the 2-Din unit and hence must provide all the extra info about external temp, VSC (pin 15 in fact!), etc. into the Radio Unit.

Also, The original diagram I posted above was done by Phil (Pips) for his RAV4.2 VX (cheers Phil :thumbsup: ) , so there are some subtle differences in connected wires - plus his vehicle was fitted with both CD-Changer and TNS Sat-Nav unit, so the connectors visible coming into the radio would have more functions (as is evident from the CD-Changer connector).

schm, "So, as I suspected, you had something else connected to the AVC-LAN." - could that be the steering wheel mounted audio controls?

Have you any info on those controls at all? There are two key factors that hinder people (well, me anyway) upgrading their Radio head unit as far as I can see... 1) Losing the computer info (a scangauge could take care of that, I would think) and 2) loosing the steering wheel controls.

No ICE company seem to do a conversion from the Toyota controls to their units :angry:

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Good work Hoovie :thumbsup:

Well, can do the easy one first - CD changer connector:-

  1. R+ (Right Audio +)
  2. L+ (Left Audio +)
  3. Sig GND (Signal Ground)
  4. Mute (Telephone, pull to ground to mute)
  5. 12V Permanent Out
  6. R- (Right Audio -)
  7. L- (Left Audio -)
  8. Ground
  9. TX- (AVC-LAN -)
  10. TX+ (AVC-LAN +)
  11. TXT?
  12. 12V ACC (Switched 12V) Out

Think the small 6 pin one is speakers, possibly rear speakers. I've got that info somewhere I think.

So, as I suspected, you had something else connected to the AVC-LAN.

Would the CD Connector have some kind of 'pause' signal or is that command sent via the AVC-LAN?

Also- when the CD-Changer plug is not connected, the Radio part of the Head Unit cannot be controlled as I mentioned.

If I turn the ignition on when there is no connection, I cannot turn it on BUT I can select on the display the OBC data and cycle throught that.

If I turn on the radio and THEN remove the CD-Changer plug, the radio carries on working but again cannot be controlled - it is like the front panel of the radio is locked out (the Steering wheel audio controls do not work either in either instance).

Not got the 10-Pin or 8-Pin pinout usage by any chance, have you? ;)

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OK, Sorry Hoovie, I'm a bit late coming back to this - I've been a bit busy.

Assuming you've not worked it out by now, or not got a head unit service manual or something similar and assuming I haven't made a mistake and mirrored these:

8 Way - Steering wheel control. Various switched resistors

Pin 7 = SW2

Pin 6 = SW1

Pin 5 = SWG (Switch Ground)

10 Way - Front Speakers and power.

Pin 1 = Front Right Speaker +

Pin 2 = Front Left Speaker +

Pin 3 = 12V Accessories

Pin 4 = Permanent 12V

Pin 5 = Front Right Speaker -

Pin 6 = Front Left Speaker -

Pin 7 = Ground

Pin 8 = Antenna Amplifier Power Supply out

Pin 10 ?

18 Way - Various

Pin 1 = Ver2 (Petrol?)

Pin 2 = Ver1 (Diesel?)

Pin 3 = TX+ (Probably Looped back to your CD changer plug pin 10 - try buzzing it out)

Pin 4 = Ground

Pin 7 = Ignition

Pin 8 = Permanent 12V

Pin 11 = TX- (Probably Looped back to your CD changer plug pin 9)

Pin 12 = Ambient Temp sensor -

Pin 13 = Ambient Temp sensor +

Pin 14 = TAUB (Injector pulse info)

Pin 15 = TAU (Injector pulse info)

Pin 16 = Vehicle speed in

Pin 17 = Illumination (Lights on) in

Pin 18 = 12V Accessories

All the CD control (e.g. pause) is almost certainly via AVC-LAN comms.

Cheers

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I have actually got all those, I think - but I can use your list to double-check mine are right :thumbsup:

I will post a new diagram up shortly :)

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Attached are two diagrams of the 58812 Head Unit.

The connections and colours noted are based on my own vehicle - a 2005 UK 2.0 VVT-i XT3 - other cars may vary!

Diagram showing Connection Designations

58812DesignationsLarge.jpg

Diagram showing Connection Colours

58812ColoursLarge.jpg

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Attached are two diagrams of the 58812 Head Unit.

The connections and colours noted are based on my own vehicle - a 2005 UK 2.0 VVT-i XT3 - other cars may vary!

Diagram showing Connection Designations

58812DesignationsLarge.jpg

Diagram showing Connection Colours

58812ColoursLarge.jpg

I Hoovie, i supposed you can`t manage to find me a diagram for my "new" B9001 (tns600) Unit

??? thanks

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  • 1 month later...
I am sure you are right about the 6 pin one.

Re CD-Connector - what I highlighted was the standard Toyota loom as far as the 2005 RAV4 goes anyway. I have a Dension Ice>Link Plus plugged into the CD-Connector - That has a Y-Connector wiring so the original wires to pins 9 and 10 are linked through to the head unit BUT that Y-connector links pin 9 on the CD-Connector to Pin 11 on that connector - Reason? No idea!

Hoovie,

Please can you make a drawing of the connections of the Y cable? I don't have this Y cable and I'm trying to connect a DMC (like xcarlink) to HU 58812.

I have the same problem with the loopback cable from 18pins HU to 12pins(5+7) HU. The DMC is NOT working when I put the Tx+ from DMC togheter with Tx+ from 18pins to 12pins(cdchanger) connector.

I'm kindly asking you to make a smal drawing with wires from Y cable. Thank you very much!!!!!!!

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Hoovie,

Please can you make a drawing of the connections of the Y cable? I don't have this Y cable and I'm trying to connect a DMC (like xcarlink) to HU 58812.

I have the same problem with the loopback cable from 18pins HU to 12pins(5+7) HU. The DMC is NOT working when I put the Tx+ from DMC togheter with Tx+ from 18pins to 12pins(cdchanger) connector.

I'm kindly asking you to make a smal drawing with wires from Y cable. Thank you very much!!!!!!!

I'll be taking out the iPod controller probably this weekend and I will do just that :thumbsup:

I bought a different unit originally (cannot remember make) and could never get it working - and it had no Y-connector, so had to return that and bought the Dension Ice>Link Plus Unit instead, which has been perfect.

I am not sure why you are pulling a signal from the 18-pin connector to the 12 pin connector? They have the same designation in the diagram, but could be subtley different? You may want to wait for the Y-Connector layout posting to try, but from what I know understand, if I had no y connector, I would link the two wires from the original Cd Changer into the DMC 12 pin connector, instead of linking the 18-pin versions.

I suspect the 58812 is very much two units in one casing - which is why the 18-Pin connection has the TX+ and TX- coming in, plus power and ground - and is used for OBC purposes only (IMO). And the other connectors have power, ground and TX+ & TX- of their own.

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Hoovie,

Do you have now the cdplayer 58812? I think this player is the problem because on other player seems to work with no problem. I never try on other players.

I think there is some trick on Y cable (i saw other name "T harness cable")

Anyway thank you very much and I'm waiting the schematic of the cable. Thank you!

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yes, I have the 58812 - I have no ideas how the other units that look similar differ. I would guess the "DIN1.4" unit does not need the Tx signals (that's a guess ;))

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Attached is a colour-coded diagram of the Y-Cable

iceLinkplusMedium.jpg

As you can see, most of the connections that go into the existing flying lead are irrelevent.

In I were in your position, I would patch the Toyota OEM CD-Changer Connector wires into the corresponding connections on the DMC CD-Changer Connector, not the ones from the 18-Pin Connector (but read my signature :yes:)

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Hoovie,

Thank you very very very much. I think there is a small trick with the wire in from pin 9 to pin 11. I hope to solve doing this connections.

Once again THANK YOU!

I will let you know if it work in a few days.

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Hoovie, I apolagise for going off topic but could you tell me how the cable runs from your parrot to the back of the stereo. I wish to fit a ck3200 in my Rav and also my wifes focus, but am usure how to conceal th wires.

Pete

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Hoovie, I apolagise for going off topic but could you tell me how the cable runs from your parrot to the back of the stereo. I wish to fit a ck3200 in my Rav and also my wifes focus, but am unsure how to conceal th wires.

Pete

Not got a parrot ;)

Both the power connection for the Sat Nav and the cradle connection for the iPod go into the radio "area" via small semi-circular grooves I made on the silver side trims and then into the interior 'gubbins' where all the cables generally live - the mounts for each device neatly hide that cable entry point :thumbsup:

If you want a silver trim that is pre-grooved, let me know - I'll swap it for yours (I am in the process of removing these devices so don't need the little gap any more :D )

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Hoovie

I see from your other post re reversing cam that you have just installed a Kenwood DNX5220BT (which I'm just about to do when it arrives from Amazon).

You mention that in swapping out the OEM stereo you lose steering controls - Kenwood do make a conversion unit (but I don;t think it's very easy to get hold of). Model no is CAW-TY1290 and details can be found here : http://www.kenwood.eu/products/car/accesso...ote/CAW-TY1290/

It doesn't seem to be easy to find in the UK though (and it's not cheap either at around 69euro from Germany)

I've added a rear camera in preparation for the head unit install - I was going to take the reversing feed from the loom in the footwell, but may run the cable back from the rear lights instead if that's what you did (no doubt for a good reason!) - the one I installed was a surface mounted version just next to the number plate lights (and it's not too obtrusive and avoids having to drill a huge hole! - will post a piccy in your other thread.

Where did you take the parking brake feed from (or did you ignore that) ? And if you did include it, does it prevent use of the handfrees or navigation when driving ?

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Hi JsyRav,

Like you say, the remote contorl adapter is not easy to source and is fairly pricey, so I have decided to wait to see how much I miss the wheel controls (so far I am missing then :( ).

Taking the reversing feed from the footwell loom or from the light connection - 6 of one, half-dozen of another. I can see merits in both as you need to run the video cable from front to rear and you need to run a wire as well anyway.

The Parking brake feed - I didn't connect to a parking brake switch (is there one anyway?), but I DID connect to to a simple switch so when I am parked I can flick that switch. Obviously, choice is with each installer, but I personally regard it as distracting to have movies or whatever running in view when you are driving so absoutely did not want to leave that enabled permenantly.

All the parking brake does is cut the 'moving' video feed to the primary display - everything else is operational, including sat nav buttons and telephone handsfree operation. The feed to an external screen is still enabled as well (not got one, but did run the cables if I want to plug one in).

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Hoovie,

Thanks for everything! Unfortunatelly is not working. So, the problem is DMC 9088A. It is not compatible with toyota 58812.

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Hoovie,

Thanks for everything! Unfortunatelly is not working. So, the problem is DMC 9088A. It is not compatible with toyota 58812.

Did you get the version for the car WITH CD-Changer installed or WITHOUT Changer installed? I would guess you may need to get it WITH changer installed as there are signals always going into the radio from the CD-Changer wiring in the Toyota even without no changer (I don't know if the switch on that passes through any signals though).

Also, did you make sure dip-switches were correct? OFF-ON-ON-OFF it is supposed to be for large (5+7?) connection, OFF-ON-ON-ON is Toyota with the small (6+6?) connection

Maybe even disconnect wires 9 & 10 from the DMC cable and just have them coming from the Toyota wiring and see what happens?

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Hoovie,

I have no idea what version is (with or without changer). For sure the car has no cdchanger!

All possible combination of dip-switches has been made. ALL not only for toyota :)

Regarding the wires directly from 18pins connector to DMC is not working. In any combination, if the wire from 18pins to 12 pins is not present the cdplayer is not working.

An interesting fact: when I put the wire form pin 9 to pin 11 on cdcanger connector the DMC and is not reading the usb flash. If I removed the wire (from 9 to 11) it's start blinking but the 58812 is not recognize the DMC as cdchanger.

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