Resetting Ecu?

[MattMR2Turbo]

I've just read in a few posts about resetting the ECU?

Just wondered what the reason for this is?

I've changed my leads and plugs etc and I read somewhere that I should reset the ECU as well?

Can someone tell me the benefits of this and list scenarios when the ECU would need resetting please. I'm a rev3 turbo by the way.

Cheers

[Bibbs]

If your old leads were knackered .. the ECU should adjust .. so when I change any leccy parts, I re-set the ECU ..

Saves the car runnning rough for a few weeks until it "learns" about the new leads ..

[MattMR2Turbo]

So basically when you reset it, does the ECU 'learn' immediately?

What about running a bleed valve - would I have to reset the ECU for when the boost levels are changed?

Cheers

[Bibbs]

yeah .. a reset will make the ECU learn from scratch (well from the default, boost friendly, smooth running options).

I don't think boost hike really matters (as all the FCD's ect are fooling the ECU into not knowing about the hike). But it doesn't do any harm !!

and after a boost hike - you'll also find out where any weaknesses are in the lecky system, the problem is magnified.

[MattMR2Turbo]

Hmm....

Mine is due for a service which I will do shortly when I get paid BUT....

I've altered the bleed valve so it boosts fully on the standard dash boost gauge (take it it should be about 13psi at max on that gauge?), and it gets to full boost just after 3k but I get a big surge of power at 5k for some reason, and you can hear the difference in the engine too.

I've got new magnecor leads but I'm getting new plugs and dizzy when I service it.

Do you think it's something electrical that makes this surge at 5k?

[Bibbs]

more like something mechanical .. you disconected the VSV .. ?

[MattMR2Turbo]

VSV??

[pizza boy]

Its the same with me m8. The rev3+ 3rd gen 3SGTE hits max torque at 5000-5500rpm. Its normal. My RR readout indicates the turbo hittin 15psi at 5000-5500rpm and then levels off to 13psi to 7000rpm. (my car is runnin stock 13psi). I assume it must be for drivability as its handy when ovetaking etc. Just be very careful cos its a danger spot in the wet. When the roads damp I always grit my teeth as the needle approaches that 5k...wheelspin central. But if youve turned up the boost this peak torque moment will obviously be even stronger. For example, instead of hitting 15psi at 5-5.5k rpm (like me) youll probably be hitting 17psi at 5-5.5k pm and levelling off at 15psi till 7000rpm

But I dont see how adjusting the bleed valve would then make your vac gauge hit the roof. It should do that regardless if its 10,13 or even 18psi. It just measures pressure. You really should have a proper boost measurment gauge like the Ormori thingy if your adjustin boost with that valve. Actually you should get a G-Valve too the bleeders are cack.

[DeusMR2]

VSV??

VSV stands for vacuum switching valve, its just a switch basically.

I found this site a while back when i was finding out how stuff works on the mr2. If you're unsure on how the turbocharger works or any other technical gadgets then have a look at this,some very useful info. It also details the fault codes for the ECU.

http://member.newsguy.com/~gtfour/technicl.htm

P.S. the site is actually about the Celica GT-4 ST185 so i dunno if the ecu codes are correct for a mr2 ecu. Everything else is the same though.

[MattMR2Turbo]

Ah that makes a bit more sense now. My boost peaks and then drops too.

[Jimlad]

Ah that makes a bit more sense now. My boost peaks and then drops too.

peaks and drops ???

Acording to my gauge it hits 15PSI.. then sits there until I change gear or let off the gas.

[pizza boy]

Hes running a stock ecu like me. Yours will be different cos of your chip. 15psi flat on the ct26? Damn must be cookin back there. Roguesystems are working on twin fans on the engine lid tha shift ho0j amounts of hot air. £250odd quid i think . Itll be better than 850+ for a new intercooler. Worth askin about jimlad.