Locked Out Of My Prius. Fob And Key Do Not Work!

[Joseph D]

5 hours ago, PaulDM said:

Use the manual key to open driver door then open boot or bonnet ( you don’t say you are a mk2 or mk3 ) then jump the battery. 

I'm sure the OP has got the problem sorted in the intervening 12 years since he posted and seeing as it was his one and only post.

 

5 hours ago, PaulDM said:

The metal key is a physical lock not electrical . Confused by your post. 

In all likelihood, the kind brother-in-law has rendered the mechanical mechanism U/S, hence the mechanical (physical) key is no longer a viable option.

[MyOpinionIsWorthless]

15 hours ago, Joseph D said:

I'm sure the OP has got the problem sorted in the intervening 12 years since he posted and seeing as it was his one and only post.

 

In all likelihood, the kind brother-in-law has rendered the mechanical mechanism U/S, hence the mechanical (physical) key is no longer a viable option.

Lol. True. But the advice is still sound for other forum members, no matter how old the OP is. A number on here have cars of the same age. Dead mk2 / mk3 12v batteries are common. 

[LesU]

On 3/23/2021 at 3:48 AM, Mark He said:

I have the same issue only worse. The key fob battery is fine. The problem is the metal key does not work in the door because my brother in law was going to do me a favor and fix the electrical lock on the drivers side door, which his attempt to fix the electrical lock was unsuccessful., and he assembled something wrong.   Now the metal key does not work in the driver side door.  The 12V car battery is dead, there is no way for me to access the engine compartment, to jump start the 12V battery.  Any Ideas???

I have had the same problem on RAV-4. The manual key does not work. In my case I believe that it might have been caused by a repair to the driver's side door done to fix a problem where the door would not release from the inside. Whatever the reason my key does not unlock the door and the 12V Battery has gone dead twice. The solution in both cases was carried out by an AA man with a torch and a long wire. The RAV-4 has a manual pull release lever for the hood. The door was pulled away just enough to get a wire in and hook under the release lever. Once the hood is up then the Battery can be recharged. Don't know if this any use to you with a Prius.

[Ifnor]

Hi there, please can anyone help me. I changed completely driver rear  door but but putted back same door lock in my Prius 2017.

Now power window is working fine but door lock is not working in central locking.

All other door lock but not the door I replaced. Any information if I have to reset or intiliaze the central locking system.

No code on scan.

 

Plz help.

[Grahamc2003]

I thought I answer the question asked, which was 

I have a flat Battery AND the mechanical key won't open the drivers door'

 

Just been through the same, hence why i ended up here for guidance. The main prob is getting in. I tried with the mechanical key, but the door wouldn't open. I heated the key thinking it was frozen - that didn't work. Sprayed de icer around and in the lock - didn't work. sprayed the key with wd40, and the lock's insides once the ket was partially in. That in itself didn't work. Got the pliers out for more leverage, and bingo. It needs to go anti-clockwise about 30 degrees to open. I put a lot of torque on the little key, and thankfully that was enough to open it before the key/plastic end broke, which was a big worry. So that's the solution to getting in.

Currently charging the Battery. Tried charging via the front connections, alarm goes off. Got in the boot (wife climbed over and unlocked that from the inside) and to the Battery terminal. Again, trying to recharge sent the alarm off again. (also tried to start with one of these new lithium battery pack starters, - alarm going off again. So just had to disconnect the battery to recharge it, and that's where i am now. Any ideas of how to recharge without removing the connection to the car without the alarm going off?

[Joseph D]

On 12/3/2021 at 4:37 AM, Grahamc2003 said:

Any ideas of how to recharge without removing the connection to the car without the alarm going off?

The alarm will always go off when the 12 V Battery is reconnected (so your Battery must have been dead flat!).  You need to activate the lock/unlock buttons on the remote to reset it.  In cars with a slot you might need to insert the key in the slot and maybe start the car.  Without a slot you hold the fob up to the start button.

It's been quite a few years ago when I had a flat Battery so the details are a little hazy.

I hope that helps.

[206driver]

So how would a locksmith do it?

I've got the same problem as many posters - flat 12v Battery, manual key doesn't work. 

I can't find any answers to solve this issue - just maybe try turning the manual key a bit harder (i already broke the plastic bit off!)

And another question, does the direction you turn the manual key in the lock differ with whether the car is left or right hand drive?

Cheers!

[TonyHSD]

When sprayed wd-40 you have to wait at least few hours or even the next day before you try turning the key. I usually lube that lock and lock unlock a couple of times  every few months to prevent exactly that happening to me when my Battery eventually dies. Not sure locksmiths can replace the plastic bit itself only, but if you know someone with 3D printer or some sort of these services and you have a spare key they can fabricate a new plastic bit and you can glue it to the existing key, job done ✅ 

[206driver]

Thanks tony!

What I've figured out now is that the lock is deadlocked.... which makes the backup key unable to turn. 

I spoke to a locksmith who advises that the only way is to break a window.  (Presumably to access the bonnet/hood latch, to then get access to the 12v positive terminal - which can then power the doors).

Surely this can't be the level of design Toyota came up with?  Leave the interior light on means you have to break a window?

[Joseph D]

2 hours ago, 206driver said:

What I've figured out now is that the lock is deadlocked.... which makes the backup key unable to turn.

I'd be really surprised if that is true.  It certainly wasn't for my Gen 2 which I always double-locked.  When I had a flat Battery, I was able open the car with the physical key.

Most always the problem is the key barrel freezes up from lack of regular use.  Some lubrication and patience, as TonyHSD mentioned above, is required.

18 hours ago, 206driver said:

And another question, does the direction you turn the manual key in the lock differ with whether the car is left or right hand drive?

I don't think it matters as the reality is if you have a stuck barrel you end up needing to twist the key back and forth in both directions to get it to free.  Then once its free, it pretty obvious which way you need to turn it to unlock it.

[Cyker]

It may be different in yours, but in every single Toyota I've owned, all deadlocking does is prevent the car being opened from the inside. I always deadlocked mine and was able to use the key to unlock the door.

The problem with keyless entry is if the lock is never used it can seize up and I think that's what's happened here - I used to use the key in my Yaris Mk1 and Mk2s occasionally as one time the remote central locking wouldn't work (Probably due to radio interference) and I found the key wouldn't work as some of the tumbler pins had gotten stuck. Had to spray the heck out of the inside of the lock with WD40 and switch cleaner and wiggle the key (Also sprayed with WD40!) side-to-side and in-and-out to loosen the pins until eventually the key worked! Thank smeg for those little straws the WD40 comes with!! Just the right size to poke into the lock and spray!

Was nasty tho' as I went a bit overboard and had drops of WD40 dripping out of the door for days...

I had a look at the emergency physical key in my smartfob and it looks... unhelpful. There is no leverage on it at all and I imagine opening a fresh lock with it would be very hard, never mind a seized one...!

I'm thinking maybe I should get the key blade cut onto a proper spare just to make it easier to use in emergencies...!

 

[Grahamc2003]

While wd40 will free the barrels off in an hour or so with a bit of luck, it won't do anything a month later when it's all evaporated. I think you need some similar oil as wd40 with ptfe in it for longer lasting lubrication.

Whatever, I think I'll use the key monthly from now on and occasionally spray it with ptfe spray.

I also think this whole situation is surprisingly poor design by toyota. Maybe something like a (hidden) external Battery charger connection, so 12v could be applied to the car to charge the Battery, or just supply 12v so the doors can be opened with the remote.

Got the Battery charged and reconnected (with the expected alarm) and restarted the car and it really going well (seems better than when i last drove it a few weeks ago). It's 2006, and the rear exhaust box now has a hole, but the rest of the exhaust is really solid still. So new rear box, new mot, then it'll get sold - kept it for a while after buying a new ev in case i suffered too much range anxiety. What a fantastic reliable car the old Pruis has been.

[Cyker]

Don't think it would help - The fundamental problem is if the lock isn't used it'll start to bind up, no matter what lube is used it'll go away eventually or even gum up if the mechanism isn't worked now and then. I don't know if they could use a lock design more resilient to the elements that is still equally secure.

The 12v thing is a tricky one - You don't really want someone being able access the electrics too easily as it increases the possibility of mischief, which is why the bonnet release is inside the car and not outside. Can't really criticise Toyota as no other manufacturer has a better solutions AFAIK. Some are worse as if the electrics go with them you need to go back to the dealer to have the remotes resynced!

I supposed if you're going to leave the car for a while you could release the bonnet from inside but not the second latch outside, then you'd b able to get to the 12v terminals more easily, but that requires prior knowledge...

[Roy124]

8 hours ago, Grahamc2003 said:

 

I also think this whole situation is surprisingly poor design by toyota. Maybe something like a (hidden) external battery charger connection, so 12v could be applied to the car to charge the battery, or just supply 12v so the doors can be opened with the remote.

Back to our favourite CTEK 5 charger with an extension cable. Hard wire the Battery and feed the lead to an accessible point. 

My lithium Battery booster cable is heavy duty as its designed for use with starter motors too. Its plug and socket are not compatible with CTEL and the supplied lead is too short for an external plug.  It might be possible to make an extension lead, or even get a 12v plug and CTEK socket and make an adaptor connector. 

[Grahamc2003]

That's interesting - so you have a permanently connected Battery charger, with a 3 pin plug accessible somewhere so you can just plug it in and recharge with no hassle.?

If it's not a security issue for you to tell, whereabouts is your 3 pin plug hidden and available?

[Skiday]

Although my 2004 Prius doesn't do much mileage, My wife just got back from a drive, and on return, the key fob won't work. The little red light goes on, just as it does on the second fob (which does get occasional use when I can't put my hand on the first), but that doesn't lock it either. The metal key works and the ignition turns on and the car can be driven, but both the fobs get no reaction from the car at all. There is little chance I think that both the fobs ran down at the precise same moment. I have now locked the car with the metal key. The 12V Battery was replaced last year.

By the way, just for the record, this is the most reliable car I have ever owned. 🙂

Andrew

[Cyker]

Hmm, two things that spring to mind is radio interference or the fobs have somehow gotten out of sync with the car...

If it's the former they will likely start working later when the interference goes away; If it's the latter might need a trip to Mr T unless someone can provide remote central locking programming instructions...

 

[Skiday]

Well it must be the former then, because today both keys work just fine. Thanks for the reply. I think though I might still go through with making a trip to the auto locksmith to see if they can make a replica metal key with a proper size plastic end so that if it happens again I can use it on a daily basis instead of the emergency key that is had to turn. You have to say though that it being a 18 year old car now you have to cut it some slack. It's pretty incredible its working at all! I've just seen one advertised with 350,000 miles!

[Sooty]

Hi Andrew,

It is possible that a door or the boot lid was not fully shut. This will stop the remote fob locking the car.

[Melanie Ann Young]

It's is actually happening to me right now! Have no clue why key won't work, looked on YouTube, no luck. Shows how to change Battery. If u find out, lmk too!

[Roy124]

My handbook says Battery should last one to two years. At each full service my dealer changes the key Battery.  I swap keys each year and then took both keys in 😊 for new batteries. 

[Paul Mason]

Just recovered from the same issue that my others have had i.e. that the car (2012 Plug-in Prius) was left standing for a long period, the12v Battery was dead and the car was locked. Initially the manual key could be turned left and right in the lock but not far enough to unlock the door. I sprayed in multi-purpose lubricant though one of those tiny tubes into the lock and then finally, after more key wiggling, got the door unlocked. I didn't use WD40 because although it's a great water dispersant..(hence WD) I think there are better lubricants for this type of application. The Battery is now charging. My hypothesis is that these locks, which never ever get used because we all use the fob, get a bit gummed up and recalcitrant over time. I hope this helps!

[Peter_Jan_JDM]

Key fob is made of humous. 

I've only just bought an prius, it said it had FSH but they gave me a service printout and not a book which I was expecting. I've found this blank book on fleebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195117347380 I'm new to toyota (after spending my youth hating on them). Is this version of the book suitable for my 2010 prius?

Any help is appreciated guys.

[tafsir]

My car is not opening even using the key attached to the fob. How shall I open it? 

[alexk345]

I have same problem with my 2010 prius.  Battery dead.

I mean before when FOB dont work i used the same key.

Now i think Battery is completely dead and even physical key come with  FOB dont work

It moves clockwise and anti clockwise fully.

At first i was able to half open. May be its a design to use some tools to open? Not sure

But after a while i pushed it back to see i can open again.. locked shut.

I even used plier on the key and broke the plastic head

Its moving both side half turn. But car is locked. What happened? Why its locked

I called toyota to find  physical key need Battery ? he said no.

Now i am screwed. Even if call locksmith , how they are going to open? Anyway to open back trunk or front hood?

Anyone knows a way? The locksmith asking for 150 . Issue is this once he left if car is locked again and i am screwed. I need a  permanent solution.

Anyone have ideas?