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Desperate Help Needed


JOAKES24
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Hi There

The other day the lights, NOW the oil pressure.

I was driving along in my Corolla T Sport, then all of a sudden the engine cut out. I then noticed that the low oil pressure light was stuck on. I tried turning over, but the car turns over, then automatically turns off.

I looked underneath at the oil filter it looks quite old. Is it possible that i could need a new oil filter, i am not sure of when it was last changed, as i just bought it. Could this cause the low pressure to remain on. I think it is lifitng oil, because it was in Lift mode earlier, which operates via hydraulic system using the oil, and there is oil coming out of the oil cap when open so oil must be getting up. p

Please any help would be appreciated.

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Hi There

The other day the lights, not the oil pressure.

I was driving along in my Corolla T Sport, then all of a sudden the engine cut out. I then noticed that the low oil pressure light was stuck on. I tried turning over, but the car turns over, then automatically turns off.

I looked underneath at the oil filter it looks quite old. Is it possible that i could need a new oil filter, i am not sure of when it was last changed, as i just bought it. Could this cause the low pressure to remain on. I think it is lifitng oil, because it was in Lift mode earlier, which operates via hydraulic system using the oil, and there is oil coming out of the oil cap when open so oil must be getting up. p

Please any help would be appreciated.

Is your oil on the dipstick at the correct level?

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Hmmm very tricky, i guess your thinking that the oil filter could be partially blocked as it looks old. If the oil is in good condition (is it?) and there is enough in it then cant really be that, possible sensor problem?

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Hmmm very tricky, i guess your thinking that the oil filter could be partially blocked as it looks old. If the oil is in good condition (is it?) and there is enough in it then cant really be that, possible sensor problem?

A few people i have frantically phoned have said it could be a sensor problem. I think i have data so i could possibly test the sensor. Also i just thought I might as well drain the oil tonight, and take the filter out for inspection (will put a new one in tommorow). The oil came out like treacle, very, very slow and was as black as tar. The oil filter itself seemed quite sludgy, and extremely heavy, with little oil actually seeping out of it now. So i am of course hoping thats its choked and the problem. Tommorow i will put a new filter in, fingers crossed. Then if that fails i think i will try the sensor. If i disconnect the sensor, could i drive it?

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Hmmm very tricky, i guess your thinking that the oil filter could be partially blocked as it looks old. If the oil is in good condition (is it?) and there is enough in it then cant really be that, possible sensor problem?

A few people i have frantically phoned have said it could be a sensor problem. I think i have data so i could possibly test the sensor. Also i just thought I might as well drain the oil tonight, and take the filter out for inspection (will put a new one in tommorow). The oil came out like treacle, very, very slow and was as black as tar. The oil filter itself seemed quite sludgy, and extremely heavy, with little oil actually seeping out of it now. So i am of course hoping thats its choked and the problem. Tommorow i will put a new filter in, fingers crossed. Then if that fails i think i will try the sensor. If i disconnect the sensor, could i drive it?

Assuming the oil was dropped warm and it is as described then it could all just be down to that. Any idea from the service book how long ago it was since the car was last serviced/oil changed?

No idea with the sensor, however as with the CTS in general it would light up the EML and potentially go into limp mode. Fingers crossed fresh oil sorts it out :thumbsup:

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There is not a great deal of service history with the car. The last oil change could be upto 20k miles! And judging by the oil, it looks it. The car just shuts down. It bypasses limp mode, and straight into shutdown, i think to protect the engine.

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Hi.

If the oil & filter change doesnt work then please read on...

I suffered a low oil pressure problem on our 1600 T-Spirit about 18 months back.

Driving normally then a constant low pressure light & tappetty sound.

Dealer wanted to charge me £££'s just to plug in & check, & a quiet word with the service manager informed me that the diagnosis would be new engine at £1500-£2000. I figured it could be a missed oil change & related sludge problem. And a trawl of the net revealed a massive problem in the US where emmissions regs mean cooler running engines & big sludge problems. But being an Engineer myself I knew all was not lost. A couple of old hands at work recommended various "cures"...running diesel through just on the starter etc. But it was a 40k mile engine so I preferred a less drastic cure.

I removed the sump & cleaned out the pick-up pipe. Also removed the rocker cover & cleaned up as best as I could. Re-filled with cheap Wilkos oil & a new filter. Then let the engine reach temp. Then used a can of Forte engine flush. Now there are other makes, but I heard the name Forte mentioned on a few forums, & from various mechanics I spoke to. Forget the Comma one, its simply not good enough. You can only buy Forte from the trade. But, if you give them a call they are brilliant. The very knowledgeable chap I spoke to gave me all the advice I needed. Anyhow getting back to my cure...after adding the Forte the engine was left to run for 1 hour on tick-over...WITHOUT REVVING. The oil, or should I say treacle, that came out took an hour to finish draining. A new filter & another sump of cheapo oil & I ran the car for a week. The engine sounded loads better after this also. Then another oil & filter change back to a 5-30 Semi-Synthetic.

We have only just traded the car in after covering another 20k miles & the problem never re-appeared.

The flush I used...

Forte Engine Flush

If you call them they will tell you who is your local stockist.

As for removing the sump its straightforward enough. Car needs front to be on ramps, theres a multitude of covers to remove. The sump has no gasket, just a bead of sealant. The dealer CD I bought listed a special tool for removing the sump but the best way was a big screwdriver & a mallet. Looking down on the engine at the front there is a bit of the sump showing & a few taps had it off. It makes a right mess when cleaning so get plenty of Gunk & rags & kitchen roll to hand. The pick-up pipe is easy enough to clean through. Re-fitting the sump is tricky. You have to run a bead of sealant about 5mm dia all around the mating lip of the sump. The rocker cover is easier, & found it was more sludgy than the bottom. The cover has a re-usable rubber gasket so don't buy another one. I ordered both from our dealers & was surprised when the "sump gasket" was a tube...!!!

If you need a copy of the brilliant dealer CD I bought from eBay just let me know as I dont think Haynes do one yet, at least they didnt when I last looked.

And good luck...

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Hi.

If the oil & filter change doesnt work then please read on...

I suffered a low oil pressure problem on our 1600 T-Spirit about 18 months back.

Driving normally then a constant low pressure light & tappetty sound.

Dealer wanted to charge me £££'s just to plug in & check, & a quiet word with the service manager informed me that the diagnosis would be new engine at £1500-£2000. I figured it could be a missed oil change & related sludge problem. And a trawl of the net revealed a massive problem in the US where emmissions regs mean cooler running engines & big sludge problems. But being an Engineer myself I knew all was not lost. A couple of old hands at work recommended various "cures"...running diesel through just on the starter etc. But it was a 40k mile engine so I preferred a less drastic cure.

I removed the sump & cleaned out the pick-up pipe. Also removed the rocker cover & cleaned up as best as I could. Re-filled with cheap Wilkos oil & a new filter. Then let the engine reach temp. Then used a can of Forte engine flush. Now there are other makes, but I heard the name Forte mentioned on a few forums, & from various mechanics I spoke to. Forget the Comma one, its simply not good enough. You can only buy Forte from the trade. But, if you give them a call they are brilliant. The very knowledgeable chap I spoke to gave me all the advice I needed. Anyhow getting back to my cure...after adding the Forte the engine was left to run for 1 hour on tick-over...WITHOUT REVVING. The oil, or should I say treacle, that came out took an hour to finish draining. A new filter & another sump of cheapo oil & I ran the car for a week. The engine sounded loads better after this also. Then another oil & filter change back to a 5-30 Semi-Synthetic.

We have only just traded the car in after covering another 20k miles & the problem never re-appeared.

The flush I used...

Forte Engine Flush

If you call them they will tell you who is your local stockist.

As for removing the sump its straightforward enough. Car needs front to be on ramps, theres a multitude of covers to remove. The sump has no gasket, just a bead of sealant. The dealer CD I bought listed a special tool for removing the sump but the best way was a big screwdriver & a mallet. Looking down on the engine at the front there is a bit of the sump showing & a few taps had it off. It makes a right mess when cleaning so get plenty of Gunk & rags & kitchen roll to hand. The pick-up pipe is easy enough to clean through. Re-fitting the sump is tricky. You have to run a bead of sealant about 5mm dia all around the mating lip of the sump. The rocker cover is easier, & found it was more sludgy than the bottom. The cover has a re-usable rubber gasket so don't buy another one. I ordered both from our dealers & was surprised when the "sump gasket" was a tube...!!!

If you need a copy of the brilliant dealer CD I bought from Ebay just let me know as I dont think Haynes do one yet, at least they didnt when I last looked.

And good luck...

Thanks very much for such in informed post. I think I may have a copy of the cd you are talking about? Is it one which has lots of pdf files flung together, and also some bonus haynes content? If not I would be iterested on taking up your offer. I actually know where my local Forte dealer is, so i think i will be giving them a call tommorow.

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Hi. No prpblem.

I dont think the cd is a Haynes one. It is a big pdf file but I'm sure its what the dealer uses. I'll have a look at work tomorrow as its in my desk.

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Hmmm very tricky, i guess your thinking that the oil filter could be partially blocked as it looks old. If the oil is in good condition (is it?) and there is enough in it then cant really be that, possible sensor problem?

A few people i have frantically phoned have said it could be a sensor problem. I think i have data so i could possibly test the sensor. Also i just thought I might as well drain the oil tonight, and take the filter out for inspection (will put a new one in tommorow). The oil came out like treacle, very, very slow and was as black as tar. The oil filter itself seemed quite sludgy, and extremely heavy, with little oil actually seeping out of it now. So i am of course hoping thats its choked and the problem. Tommorow i will put a new filter in, fingers crossed. Then if that fails i think i will try the sensor. If i disconnect the sensor, could i drive it?

Just try and settle yourself mate until the mechanics give a diagnosis. I was overtaking a few weeks ago in lift and the car died and put on the warning lights and then wouldnt rev above 3,000 rpm. The oil and coolant levels were near the full level as i had checked them earlier on that day. I swore the engine was shagged and i was in big trouble.

Turned out to be a loose wire on my K&N Typhoon...mechanic put it on the computer and it showed AFM problem...he pulled open the bonnet and sure enough there was a wire missing from the AFM. Fixed wire, started car up and everything went back to normal.

Hopefully its something simple! If you get it sorted, i remember a Toyota mechanic telling me these engines need frequent oil changes to stay healthy...keep on top of the servicing B)

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Hmmm very tricky, i guess your thinking that the oil filter could be partially blocked as it looks old. If the oil is in good condition (is it?) and there is enough in it then cant really be that, possible sensor problem?

A few people i have frantically phoned have said it could be a sensor problem. I think i have data so i could possibly test the sensor. Also i just thought I might as well drain the oil tonight, and take the filter out for inspection (will put a new one in tommorow). The oil came out like treacle, very, very slow and was as black as tar. The oil filter itself seemed quite sludgy, and extremely heavy, with little oil actually seeping out of it now. So i am of course hoping thats its choked and the problem. Tommorow i will put a new filter in, fingers crossed. Then if that fails i think i will try the sensor. If i disconnect the sensor, could i drive it?

Just try and settle yourself mate until the mechanics give a diagnosis. I was overtaking a few weeks ago in lift and the car died and put on the warning lights and then wouldnt rev above 3,000 rpm. The oil and coolant levels were near the full level as i had checked them earlier on that day. I swore the engine was shagged and i was in big trouble.

Turned out to be a loose wire on my K&N Typhoon...mechanic put it on the computer and it showed AFM problem...he pulled open the bonnet and sure enough there was a wire missing from the AFM. Fixed wire, started car up and everything went back to normal.

Hopefully its something simple! If you get it sorted, i remember a Toyota mechanic telling me these engines need frequent oil changes to stay healthy...keep on top of the servicing B)

It has been taken to a mechanic, who now thinks it could actually be a fuel problem. Possible a dodgy fuel relay? anyone have any take on this?

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