Poor Starting From Cold

[Cooper Sport 500]

I have a 2003 RAV D4D. Recently when starting the engine first thing in the morning, it takes quite a few turns of the engine before starting. It then runs with less power than normal, you have to really depress the accelerator to get the car to go. The power usually comes back after 10 minutes or so. Starting is fine from warm.

Also, at what mileage should the timing belt be changed?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[igormus]

I have a 2003 RAV D4D. Recently when starting the engine first thing in the morning, it takes quite a few turns of the engine before starting. It then runs with less power than normal, you have to really depress the accelerator to get the car to go. The power usually comes back after 10 minutes or so. Starting is fine from warm.

Also, at what mileage should the timing belt be changed?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

hi

your problem is connected with poor injection.

do not dismantle the timing belt before injectors testing.

cheers/Igor

[anchorman]

We did have some reports of fuel pipes near to the tank allowing air into the system.

The result was that after an overnight stand the fuel ran back to the tank and starting was difficult. After starting the air has to be purged before the engine runs normally. This can sometimes be indicated by damp patches under the vehicle if you look in the area of the fuel tank.

Good luck mate.

[Cooper Sport 500]

We did have some reports of fuel pipes near to the tank allowing air into the system.

The result was that after an overnight stand the fuel ran back to the tank and starting was difficult. After starting the air has to be purged before the engine runs normally. This can sometimes be indicated by damp patches under the vehicle if you look in the area of the fuel tank.

Good luck mate.

Thanks, I'll have a crawl under the car when it gets a bit drier

[igormus]

We did have some reports of fuel pipes near to the tank allowing air into the system.

The result was that after an overnight stand the fuel ran back to the tank and starting was difficult. After starting the air has to be purged before the engine runs normally. This can sometimes be indicated by damp patches under the vehicle if you look in the area of the fuel tank.

Good luck mate.

Thanks, I'll have a crawl under the car when it gets a bit drier

hello

i disagree.

even the back line is emty -- it's normal because this line is only used to drain not injected diesel into the fuel tank , as well as to heat diesel in the tank in winter time thanks to circulation.

but in case the suction line is semi-empty -- this is the first signal you have a problem with air presence inside the suction line before HP fuel injection pump & the reason might be with fine fuel filter air escape bolt/screw.

cheers/Igor

[anchorman]

Igor

Checking for leaks is a way of spotting a hole in the pipe. If fuel can get out, air can get in. It has worked in the past - here are some similar cases;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...c=71119&hl=

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...c=79054&hl=

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...=74244&st=0

[igormus]

Igor

Checking for leaks is a way of spotting a hole in the pipe. If fuel can get out, air can get in. It has worked in the past - here are some similar cases;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...c=71119&hl=

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...c=79054&hl=

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...=74244&st=0

hello Anchorman

I do not believe that all return tubes are not in shelter and moreover not galvanized to exclude pitting or penetrating corrosion or damage.

It's better to hear from an Author -- what has He disclosed under the car :)

Cheers/Igor