4.2 D4d Scv Valve Replacement

[Dale_J]

hey guys iv only had my rav 4 like a week now, and it has trouble starting cranks fine and then finaly starts, and i beleive pressing the accellerater pedal helps start it. there is no error lights on the dash at all? and i cant really tell if there is loss of power, because iv not been driving it long enough? could this be the scv valves?

Thanks Dale

[anchorman]

I doubt it Dale. I would change the fuel filter and if it sounds reluctant after doing so, pump the priming plunger to see if it starts soft then goes stiff and try again. It could be drawing air. I'm afraid pumping the accelerator does absolutely nothing as it is a drive by wire (potentiometer) system and is not connected by anything other than wires.

[Parts-King]

You wouldnt believe it but those SCV valves are cheaper these days then when this thread was started way back when! PM me for up to date details

Kingo

[jedi134]

Mines drive by wire and I have to press the acc pedal down a little for it to start 1st time from cold, if I don't I have to crank the engine over again for it to start.

[igormus]

hey guys iv only had my rav 4 like a week now, and it has trouble starting cranks fine and then finaly starts, and i beleive pressing the accellerater pedal helps start it. there is no error lights on the dash at all? and i cant really tell if there is loss of power, because iv not been driving it long enough? could this be the scv valves?

Thanks Dale

= = = = = =

Dale

The SCV either works or not -- its returning spring never allows him to give a false and always cuts off fuel line.

You have an issue with fuel filter -- agree with Anchs

You ve stated you own it within a week and it is understood you must to have time to be introduced.

Have filter correctly changed and start it up again. The outcome is highly required for us.

Cheers/Igor

[pysko ugarte]

4.2 RAV4 D4-D SCV Valves:

Ok, here goes with the details I know about the SCV valves and their replacement on the 4.2 RAV4 D4-D. Or at least this is how I did it, maybe not the best way but it worked for me! I have yet to look on the official Toyota technical website to see if there are any better instructions in their service manual.

Background:

The symptoms were fairly similar to others who have posted on the forum, ie: loss of power, especially at the top end of the rev range above 3000rpm. Sometimes it would be fairly intermittent and at others the RAV could not get out of its own way!! There was no MIL to start with but that soon changed..... It would come on and off but then it came on and stayed on. The DTC stored was P0627 relating mainly (as it says there could be something else causing the problem) to the SCV valves as below:

I also checked the electrical side of the valves, but mine were both in spec. You can check for continuity between the valves and the engine block and resistance across the valves themselves:

And if required the following shows the wiring between the SCV valves and the Engine ECU:

New valves were purchased from Kingo [aka Parts-King on the Forum] for £194.16 inc. VAT & p&p. Part # is: 04221-27011 and is described as: "Pump Kit, Supply". Ace service from him!

Replacement:

Firstly I undid the two nuts holding the coolant tank in place. Then carefully lifted the tank off the studs (and the locating spigot under the tank) and moved it to the left. I managed to fix the right hand hole onto the left hand stud (if that makes sense!) and could then hold it in place with a nut put on finger tight. Just kept it nicely out the way although you could achieve the same thig using a cable tie I guess. Then I removed the air intake pipe running between the front of the intercooler and the throttle body. This is the main, large diameter black pipe in the photo below (the location of the SCV valves is highlighted by the red circle):

Once this is done you should have something which looks like this:

I also removed the nut holding the wiring loom trunking in place (in the green circle) to gain better access. The red circle is where the SCV valves are.

To identify between the two valves, the front one is redish brown and is SCV 1, and the rearmost one is green and is SCV2. I did one valve at a time to ensure I didn't mix them up and started with the rear most one (closest to the engine block) as this is the most difficult to do because of the limited access. Always better to start with the hard one as when you're bored and tired the second one seems easier!

After undoing the electrical connectors to each valve I then removed the cap/allen head screws holding the valves themselves in place. I needed to use a small screwdriver between the flange and the fuel pump to carefully prise the valve out of it's housing as it was quite tight. Once removed you can push the new one into place. Due to the limited access I could not push the valve fully home so used the fixing screws by tightening each screw a few turns each, alternating between each one, to make sure that it went in square. The other valve was changed in the same way but was a little easier due to the better access.

The following photo shows the new rear (green) valve in place and the old front (red) one removed before fitting the new one:

Once both new valves were in place I wiped up as much of the spilt diesel as I could (not much came out when the valves were removed really), just helps to check for leaks if the area you're checking is already dry. Then I replaced all the components I'd taken off.

Not sure if it helped but I pressed the priming button on top of the fuel filter head until I felt resistance to make sure the fuel system was full.

That's it! The engine started almost immediately and ran fine. On the second ignition cycle the MIL went out and has been out since (keeping my fingers crossed here!).

I guess it will be a good idea to get the fault codes cleared at some point as the original DTC will still be present as a historic code. Always good practice to clear the fault codes once you have fixed the problem.

The following photo shows the old valves. The new ones didn't look any different to be honest, except cleaner!

All in it took about 1hour from start to finish.

Hope this helps someone else!

First of all, thank you for this great post.

I just want to expose my case to know your opinion.

I drive a Previa 2.0 D4D from 2002 with about 197.000 km.

Some months ago I began to have problems to start. Engine need more cranking time and had got my engine managing ligth

4.2 RAV4 D4-D SCV Valves:

Ok, here goes with the details I know about the SCV valves and their replacement on the 4.2 RAV4 D4-D. Or at least this is how I did it, maybe not the best way but it worked for me! I have yet to look on the official Toyota technical website to see if there are any better instructions in their service manual.

Background:

The symptoms were fairly similar to others who have posted on the forum, ie: loss of power, especially at the top end of the rev range above 3000rpm. Sometimes it would be fairly intermittent and at others the RAV could not get out of its own way!! There was no MIL to start with but that soon changed..... It would come on and off but then it came on and stayed on. The DTC stored was P0627 relating mainly (as it says there could be something else causing the problem) to the SCV valves as below:

I also checked the electrical side of the valves, but mine were both in spec. You can check for continuity between the valves and the engine block and resistance across the valves themselves:

And if required the following shows the wiring between the SCV valves and the Engine ECU:

New valves were purchased from Kingo [aka Parts-King on the Forum] for £194.16 inc. VAT & p&p. Part # is: 04221-27011 and is described as: "Pump Kit, Supply". Ace service from him!

Replacement:

Firstly I undid the two nuts holding the coolant tank in place. Then carefully lifted the tank off the studs (and the locating spigot under the tank) and moved it to the left. I managed to fix the right hand hole onto the left hand stud (if that makes sense!) and could then hold it in place with a nut put on finger tight. Just kept it nicely out the way although you could achieve the same thig using a cable tie I guess. Then I removed the air intake pipe running between the front of the intercooler and the throttle body. This is the main, large diameter black pipe in the photo below (the location of the SCV valves is highlighted by the red circle):

Once this is done you should have something which looks like this:

I also removed the nut holding the wiring loom trunking in place (in the green circle) to gain better access. The red circle is where the SCV valves are.

To identify between the two valves, the front one is redish brown and is SCV 1, and the rearmost one is green and is SCV2. I did one valve at a time to ensure I didn't mix them up and started with the rear most one (closest to the engine block) as this is the most difficult to do because of the limited access. Always better to start with the hard one as when you're bored and tired the second one seems easier!

After undoing the electrical connectors to each valve I then removed the cap/allen head screws holding the valves themselves in place. I needed to use a small screwdriver between the flange and the fuel pump to carefully prise the valve out of it's housing as it was quite tight. Once removed you can push the new one into place. Due to the limited access I could not push the valve fully home so used the fixing screws by tightening each screw a few turns each, alternating between each one, to make sure that it went in square. The other valve was changed in the same way but was a little easier due to the better access.

The following photo shows the new rear (green) valve in place and the old front (red) one removed before fitting the new one:

Once both new valves were in place I wiped up as much of the spilt diesel as I could (not much came out when the valves were removed really), just helps to check for leaks if the area you're checking is already dry. Then I replaced all the components I'd taken off.

Not sure if it helped but I pressed the priming button on top of the fuel filter head until I felt resistance to make sure the fuel system was full.

That's it! The engine started almost immediately and ran fine. On the second ignition cycle the MIL went out and has been out since (keeping my fingers crossed here!).

I guess it will be a good idea to get the fault codes cleared at some point as the original DTC will still be present as a historic code. Always good practice to clear the fault codes once you have fixed the problem.

The following photo shows the old valves. The new ones didn't look any different to be honest, except cleaner!

All in it took about 1hour from start to finish.

Hope this helps someone else!

Hello

A few months ago I began with problems to start my Previa d4D and the EML came up. When the ligth is on the car has no power and has many difficulties to go over 2500 rpm. It seems to work in "emergency" mode.

I went to a garage (it was not a Toyota dealer) where I could the error he red in the ECU: it was de P1256.

Mechanic had no information about it. He made some calls but no way.

He just deleted the error.

Symptoms are that after a few km driving slowly, stopping and restarting EML dissapears and engine works normally.

But not always, and it has different behavior when weather is colder. The colder it is, more difficult to get the EML off.

Meantime I´ve had the engine review: oil and filter change, air filter change, MAF cleaning.

As I read in your posts, the problem could be the SCV.

What do you think?

Thanks in advance for your answer.

[pysko ugarte]

hey guys iv only had my rav 4 like a week now, and it has trouble starting cranks fine and then finaly starts, and i beleive pressing the accellerater pedal helps start it. there is no error lights on the dash at all? and i cant really tell if there is loss of power, because iv not been driving it long enough? could this be the scv valves? Thanks Dale = = = = = = Dale The SCV either works or not -- its returning spring never allows him to give a false and always cuts off fuel line. You have an issue with fuel filter -- agree with Anchs You ve stated you own it within a week and it is understood you must to have time to be introduced. Have filter correctly changed and start it up again. The outcome is highly required for us. Cheers/Igor

Hello Igor,

I`m having problems for three months with my 2.0 D4D in my Previa. I think is the same engine you have.

It doesnt starts inmediately as it used to do, and after starting i can feel it has not power enought. After a few minutes the EML pops out. Having some km driven if you stop and start again you get the EML off and the car returns to its normal work (it has power enought, accelerates normally...).

But not always. My experience is that it use to depend on the cold the weather it is. The hotter it is, the less km you have to drive to get the EML off (after having stopped, of course).

First time, I went to a dealer who make diagnostic obtaining P1256 in my ECU. He had no idea about it, and made some call to his colleagues with no result.

During this three months I've change oil and oil filter (normal maintenance), MAF cleaning and also changed glowing plugs.

Anyway, problem persists and I don´t find the clue.

I want to clean the EGR valve but just because of maintenance. Dont think the problem is there

In addition, and after having read your post, I`d like to believe my problem are SCV valves, but what I don´t understand is that, as you say, this valves work or not, and so, I have not explanation for the moment I got my EML off and the car goes normally.

Do you have any idea of what my problem could be?

Just another question, Does anybody knows what Glow Plug Relay is for?. Making different tests I´ve realized that my cars starts the same (good or bad, depending the weather :-( when I have this relay plugged or not.

Very pleased to know all of you and thanking you in advance for your answer.

P.D: I promise a detailed spot after solving the problem. It´s annoying the few information and knowledge our dealers seem to have.

[igormus]

Hello Igor,

I want to clean the EGR valve but just because of maintenance. Dont think the problem is there

YOU HAVE TO EXCLUDE EACH POSSIBLE ISSUE CHAIN

In addition, and after having read your post, I`d like to believe my problem are SCV valves, but what I don´t understand is that, as you say, this valves work or not,

I WANTED TO SAY THAT THE VALVE EITHER PASSES DIESEL OR NOT

Glow Plug Relay is for?. -- IT ISS FOR FORCE 12 V FEEDING OF GLOW PLUGS

Making different tests I´ve realized that my cars starts the same (good or bad, depending the weather

CHECK WITH FUEL FILTER and AFTER CALIBRATE CYCLE DIESEL INJECTION PORTION

[slomaran]

4.2 RAV4 D4-D SCV Valves:

Ok, here goes with the details I know about the SCV valves and their replacement on the 4.2 RAV4 D4-D. Or at least this is how I did it, maybe not the best way but it worked for me! I have yet to look on the official Toyota technical website to see if there are any better instructions in their service manual.

Background:

The symptoms were fairly similar to others who have posted on the forum, ie: loss of power, especially at the top end of the rev range above 3000rpm. Sometimes it would be fairly intermittent and at others the RAV could not get out of its own way!! There was no MIL to start with but that soon changed..... It would come on and off but then it came on and stayed on. The DTC stored was P0627 relating mainly (as it says there could be something else causing the problem) to the SCV valves as below:

I also checked the electrical side of the valves, but mine were both in spec. You can check for continuity between the valves and the engine block and resistance across the valves themselves:

And if required the following shows the wiring between the SCV valves and the Engine ECU:

New valves were purchased from Kingo [aka Parts-King on the Forum] for £194.16 inc. VAT & p&p. Part # is: 04221-27011 and is described as: "Pump Kit, Supply". Ace service from him!

Replacement:

Firstly I undid the two nuts holding the coolant tank in place. Then carefully lifted the tank off the studs (and the locating spigot under the tank) and moved it to the left. I managed to fix the right hand hole onto the left hand stud (if that makes sense!) and could then hold it in place with a nut put on finger tight. Just kept it nicely out the way although you could achieve the same thig using a cable tie I guess. Then I removed the air intake pipe running between the front of the intercooler and the throttle body. This is the main, large diameter black pipe in the photo below (the location of the SCV valves is highlighted by the red circle):

Once this is done you should have something which looks like this:

I also removed the nut holding the wiring loom trunking in place (in the green circle) to gain better access. The red circle is where the SCV valves are.

To identify between the two valves, the front one is redish brown and is SCV 1, and the rearmost one is green and is SCV2. I did one valve at a time to ensure I didn't mix them up and started with the rear most one (closest to the engine block) as this is the most difficult to do because of the limited access. Always better to start with the hard one as when you're bored and tired the second one seems easier!

After undoing the electrical connectors to each valve I then removed the cap/allen head screws holding the valves themselves in place. I needed to use a small screwdriver between the flange and the fuel pump to carefully prise the valve out of it's housing as it was quite tight. Once removed you can push the new one into place. Due to the limited access I could not push the valve fully home so used the fixing screws by tightening each screw a few turns each, alternating between each one, to make sure that it went in square. The other valve was changed in the same way but was a little easier due to the better access.

The following photo shows the new rear (green) valve in place and the old front (red) one removed before fitting the new one:

Once both new valves were in place I wiped up as much of the spilt diesel as I could (not much came out when the valves were removed really), just helps to check for leaks if the area you're checking is already dry. Then I replaced all the components I'd taken off.

Not sure if it helped but I pressed the priming button on top of the fuel filter head until I felt resistance to make sure the fuel system was full.

That's it! The engine started almost immediately and ran fine. On the second ignition cycle the MIL went out and has been out since (keeping my fingers crossed here!).

I guess it will be a good idea to get the fault codes cleared at some point as the original DTC will still be present as a historic code. Always good practice to clear the fault codes once you have fixed the problem.

The following photo shows the old valves. The new ones didn't look any different to be honest, except cleaner!

All in it took about 1hour from start to finish.

Hope this helps someone else!

I have tried to change scv valves but I experienced problems. First: the far away screw(closest to engine block) was very tight and allen key started slip, second: there is a hose going form pump to the high-pressure common rail. I wonder is it ok to remove that hose and how to put this back on properly? Can you advise me how to take out that screw allen key slips.

thx

[anchorman]

You mean the steel pipe? Toyota recommend they are not reused but you can try it. You are in a mess with that screw. If you get a small chisel and tap the outside so it digs in and anti-clockwise it might shock free. It only needs to go 1/8 turn and it will come out with your fingers.

[slomaran]

4.2 RAV4 D4-D SCV Valves:

Ok, here goes with the details I know about the SCV valves and their replacement on the 4.2 RAV4 D4-D. Or at least this is how I did it, maybe not the best way but it worked for me! I have yet to look on the official Toyota technical website to see if there are any better instructions in their service manual.

Background:

The symptoms were fairly similar to others who have posted on the forum, ie: loss of power, especially at the top end of the rev range above 3000rpm. Sometimes it would be fairly intermittent and at others the RAV could not get out of its own way!! There was no MIL to start with but that soon changed..... It would come on and off but then it came on and stayed on. The DTC stored was P0627 relating mainly (as it says there could be something else causing the problem) to the SCV valves as below:

I also checked the electrical side of the valves, but mine were both in spec. You can check for continuity between the valves and the engine block and resistance across the valves themselves:

And if required the following shows the wiring between the SCV valves and the Engine ECU:

New valves were purchased from Kingo [aka Parts-King on the Forum] for £194.16 inc. VAT & p&p. Part # is: 04221-27011 and is described as: "Pump Kit, Supply". Ace service from him!

Replacement:

Firstly I undid the two nuts holding the coolant tank in place. Then carefully lifted the tank off the studs (and the locating spigot under the tank) and moved it to the left. I managed to fix the right hand hole onto the left hand stud (if that makes sense!) and could then hold it in place with a nut put on finger tight. Just kept it nicely out the way although you could achieve the same thig using a cable tie I guess. Then I removed the air intake pipe running between the front of the intercooler and the throttle body. This is the main, large diameter black pipe in the photo below (the location of the SCV valves is highlighted by the red circle):

Once this is done you should have something which looks like this:

I also removed the nut holding the wiring loom trunking in place (in the green circle) to gain better access. The red circle is where the SCV valves are.

To identify between the two valves, the front one is redish brown and is SCV 1, and the rearmost one is green and is SCV2. I did one valve at a time to ensure I didn't mix them up and started with the rear most one (closest to the engine block) as this is the most difficult to do because of the limited access. Always better to start with the hard one as when you're bored and tired the second one seems easier!

After undoing the electrical connectors to each valve I then removed the cap/allen head screws holding the valves themselves in place. I needed to use a small screwdriver between the flange and the fuel pump to carefully prise the valve out of it's housing as it was quite tight. Once removed you can push the new one into place. Due to the limited access I could not push the valve fully home so used the fixing screws by tightening each screw a few turns each, alternating between each one, to make sure that it went in square. The other valve was changed in the same way but was a little easier due to the better access.

The following photo shows the new rear (green) valve in place and the old front (red) one removed before fitting the new one:

Once both new valves were in place I wiped up as much of the spilt diesel as I could (not much came out when the valves were removed really), just helps to check for leaks if the area you're checking is already dry. Then I replaced all the components I'd taken off.

Not sure if it helped but I pressed the priming button on top of the fuel filter head until I felt resistance to make sure the fuel system was full.

That's it! The engine started almost immediately and ran fine. On the second ignition cycle the MIL went out and has been out since (keeping my fingers crossed here!).

I guess it will be a good idea to get the fault codes cleared at some point as the original DTC will still be present as a historic code. Always good practice to clear the fault codes once you have fixed the problem.

The following photo shows the old valves. The new ones didn't look any different to be honest, except cleaner!

All in it took about 1hour from start to finish.

Hope this helps someone else!

I have tried to change scv valves but I experienced problems. First: the far away screw(closest to engine block) was very tight and allen key started slip, second: there is a hose going form pump to the high-pressure common rail. I wonder is it ok to remove that hose and how to put this back on properly? Can you advise me how to take out that screw allen key slips.

thx

one more question: at this scenario is any point to change one valve only?

any way I bought valves for 200 pound from eBay from pf jones ltd. they supposed to be new but there is a lot scratches on metal. Should I return them?

[slomaran]

You mean the steel pipe? Toyota recommend they are not reused but you can try it. You are in a mess with that screw. If you get a small chisel and tap the outside so it digs in and anti-clockwise it might shock free. It only needs to go 1/8 turn and it will come out with your fingers.

there is a rubber hose going on the steel pipe on each end. does exist any socket with sharp thread going opposite way to screw on the screw head to unscrew it this way? do you know the diameter of screw head?

[anchorman]

You can buy various extractors for rounded bolts but how you will go on in there I don't know. You might end up with the pump off but that is a big big job.

[RupertRAV4]

Hi Slomaran,

I had a bit of an issue with the allen head bolts as well. Turns out the area where they seize is where the mating face of the head of the bolt mates on the flange of the SCV valve (rather than the thread of the bolt seizing into the fuel pump body itself - even though they look like stainless they do appear torust as you can see in the pics above). At least this was the case with mine. You could try tapping a wood chisel or a thin blade screwdriver between the bolt and the SCV flange to break the seize. Also, more generic options to be able to remove rounded allen head bolts like these you could try some of the following:

• Tap a larger size hex bit into the rounded bolt and use it to undo the bolt.
  
• Tap a Torx bit into it (the 'arms' of the Torx bit will grip in the rounded hex hole).
  
• Heat the head on the bolt with a very fine flame such as that from a gas soldering iron (be careful though as there's lots of plastic in and around the valves.
  
• Put some Chemical Metal into the head of the rounded bolt, tap a suitable bit into it (like suggested above) and let the Chemical Metal set. Then use this to undo the bolt. You'll need new bolts but they are pretty standard bolts so should be easy enough to come by.
  

Thinking aloud, you could also try to get someone to weld (TIG or MIG) a hex onto the head of the rounded allen bolt and use this to remove it. You'd need to find a pretty handy welder as space is so tight and ensure the Battery is disconnected before starting welding.

[vitalke]

Hi guys, i have a question, is it possible, to take out SCV, purge them, and take back to their place, is it possible that they are just dirty, and my engine missfeed the power because of it?

my rav4 starts normally, but when i am driving and push immediately the gas pedal, it happens that the car losts gas, so i have to turn off the ingine, ant strat it on even in 5 sec., and everything good, the car is going on again.

I had clean the EGR valve and air flow meter, at first time i thougt it helped, but after half an year the truoble came back, so now i think maybe its SCV, how you tink, thanks? the diagnostic showed p1250 mistake.

p.s. sory for mistakes:)

[anchorman]

Its always worth a try but do the fuel filter first.

[vitalke]

I changed fuel filter few months ago, in summer, so... what to do else? as I understand it could be only this reason: fuel filter-changed, EGR-cleaned, OSM-question, because ones I cleaned it with WD or something like this nonalcohol liquid. and now I think maybe it is because of SCV or turbo sensor? how you think?

as I read in forums, many people have such a problem when they were driving and accelerate the gas pedal to the floor, in case to have more speed, and their RAV4 went in to emergency mode and turbo didnt work. but I didnt find the exact answer of solving this problem, so maybe someone will tell me what to do?

could it be problem in this SCV, or SCV are bad when the car didnt want to start only?

[n33dle]

hi hope fully somebody can help me i have a 2003 plate rav 4 d4d 70,000 miles on clock and the car has started being hesitant on acceleration and for some reason if car parked up over night for instant when i get up in morning to start it up she really strugles 1st time but if u crank her 2nd time she fine thanks miike

[Mikeyseghill]

Thanks for this, I'm no mechanic but was able to change my own scv valves in less than an hour,, unfortunately in my case this has not solved my problem.

Kind regards and thanks again

Mikeyseghill

[Migworks]

Hi all brilliant guide by the original poster btw!

Can i ask in relation to the SCV problem, i am experiencing hesitation in accelarating (feels like a petrol missfire) but am getting no warning light on? If the SCV are acting up would an engine warning light allways show up?

Its a 2002 D4D recently serviced at 120,000 miles (by myself) Done timing belt kit, water pump, fuel filter, oil, air, cabin ect. This problem was there before the service and belts change, seemed slightly better after but probably me thinking that?

I am also getting a chatter at 2800 revs which i suspect is play in the turbo? (no smoke) was putting the hesitation / holding back down to this but reading this topic i wonder if i have two issues going on?

After a 200 mile spin the other day im now getting a bit of howling/wailing at light revs, which goes away when you disconnect the vacum pipe running to the top of the turbo. Ive asked a few local more experienced mechanics but they all come up with different answers (ie they dont really know lol).

Talked to a well know turbo guy this morning here in Ireland, replacement recon turbo priced at €400 to 500, is this a good price or are there lads on this forum that can better that? Cant really afford theSCV or turbo replacement at this time, so all help gratefully appreciated.

BTW can i buy a code reader for the 2002 D4D or is it main dealer only???

Any advice gratefully recieved

[anchorman]

Don't buy a code reader it won't work. You can get the codes for free if you follow instructions posted elswhere. I would pm Rambler has he has recently cured a long term problem as you describe.

[Migworks]

Ok will do Anchorman, cheers.

No codes coming up on the dash and no engine management light coming on!

And it wasn't long ago since I did the belts and pump just because she hit 120k.

Ill drop Rambler a pm alright later on.

Thanks, Wyn

[OldRaver]

Haven't needed to visit the forum for some time - testimony to the Rav! - but- Been experiencing a number of 'limp modes' recently, always whilst under power and in 'top' gear. Usually going up an incline with the engine almost at operating temperature. Sometimes get 'hesitation' whilst accelerating. Having followed this forum and in particular this thread I'm thinking this is probably the SCV's on the way out? I had the fuel filter replaced at 85k by Mr T. and have just done 101k. Maybe the filter needs replacing first? Have to admit to using Te_co diesel most of the time with the occasional 'treat' of V power. Am I going to have to get new SCV's? As always your inputs will be gratefully received.

[Clarke]

I have the exact same problem with my 2002 rav4 d4d 2.0, first time it happened she hit limp mode , on a drive to cork she did it numerous times on the motorway , mil light came on , had to clutch her , turn off the ignition , freewheel for as long as I safely could and turn it on again ! Light stayed on but she still managed to make it down and back to Donegal ! Overtaking was dangerous as she could seam like she had power and was going fine , then she would just stall ! Mechanic suggested a fuel filter change, this worked for a good while with a full service as she was due it (86,000) , happened again but without the mil light , changed the fuel filter again recently, got about 400 miles out of her but she's at it again , nearly every gear from 2nd up, around the 2500 rpm range he'll stick, you can nearly hear it as soon as I change gear an touch the pedal I'll know if she's (as I call it ) "flatlining" on me ! Read this thread along with numerous others online. Started off buy taking every hose to do with the air intake off the car, air filter housing and all, hot water fairy liquid, a dish brush and a big container! There was some greasy oily substance in some of the pipes and even slightly around the turbo where the pipes attach. Cleaned everything as best I could ! Next i took off the egr valve and cleaned it with carb cleaner and lots of clean rags, cleaned all holes and areas pipes attached back onto without spraying and carb cleaner inside anything, just onto a cloth and "fingered the holes" , for want of a better expression ! Put everything back on perfectly checking all pipes for cracks or leaks , took her for a drive and straight away, 2nd gear ... 2500 rpm or so and she flatlined again. I can put my foot down and there will be nothing for ages, then a big kick , like the turbo just boosted ! This boosting can be intermittent ! Just bought the SUCTION CONTROL VALVES on Monday , gonna put them in tomorrow and go for a drive, if it still persists I'm gonna buy and replace the VACUUM SWITCHING VALVE, I have another fuel filter there but after only doing 400 miles I know the last 1 i just put in is fine but I'm amazed that it worked in resolving the problem twice ! Other problems I will look at if this does not fix the problem will be INJECTORS & the FUEL PUMP, but a mechanic will probably have to check those for me I'd say. I'll keep you all informed of my progress , great thread , thanks !!!

[Big Kev]

Beejaysus, Clarkey......did you work on the Steve Austin programme......"we have the technology, we can rebuild him ?" LOL.

Reading all the bits you have or are about to replace, you may find it cheaper to pay for an hour's diagnosis at a Dealer....?

Beware their general reputation that they tend to fling expensive parts in until a cure is found too......good luck.

Big Kev