Need New Discs.

[Macmolly]

I need some new front discs for my 03reg D4D VX Rav.I want a set that will last so I'm not after some cheap, crap set.

But not to dear to buy,so wheres the best place to buy them from.

[bothwell_buyer]

I need some new front discs for my 03reg D4D VX Rav.I want a set that will last so I'm not after some cheap, crap set.

But not to dear to buy,so wheres the best place to buy them from.

Cheapest place just now is USA but only if you have a friend taking a holiday there!!

The Toyota discs are allegedly the best, but my experience has been they are no better than anyone elses. There are several suppliers of discs - EBS is a common one. Don't know if rotordisc are still in business but they did an interesting one. I found that the prices were all around £160 for a pair - you can't buy 1 at a time....shame as I have 3 nearside discs almost unused cos the Toyota offside caliper was guff and ripped up the disc.

I got so fed up that I replaced the entire disc assembly with KAD racing calipers/brakes. They behave well but do have certain methods of driving which they don't like. Also far more expensive, but then I now have brakes that will stop the beast so quickly that I have to think about the eejit behind managing to stop.

The discs will last for whatever time depending on how you use them and the road condition. Anchorman here argues passionately that the Toyota disc pad is the best money can buy and I wouldn't contradict that. The calipers are crap but thats another argument.

Try asking Parts-King for a price for replacement - and if you are fitting discs, its always recommended that you fit new pads....I tend to disagree to a point depending on what wear the pad has had, but again another argument.

For interest, you can try googling RAV4 rotors and see what comes up in USA. The shipping price, VAT and if you are unlucky, which you will be, the customs charge needs to be taken into account....unless you pick them up yourself! :lol:

[anchorman]

Look here;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86266

........and here;

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86268

Nowthwen. Bothy is right in that I will recommend Toyota pads to the hilt. However, discs are a little bit differemt in that most brands are largely just plain old cast iron. However, there is some benefit in getting the grades just right and in that respect genuine Toyota discs are undoubtably better. You just need to quantify things though. Toyota genuine pads are leagues ahead of the nearest premium branded European brands. There is not the same stepped difference inbetween premium and aftermarket discs. You say that you want to avoid crap discs but there is not a lot of difference between fairly basic aftermarket cast iron discs and premium OE discs.

I would say that paying double for OE discs is over the top so check some prices first. I would pay double for genuine Toyota pads but in fact Kingo will sell them at a very competitive price. They are extremely good value for money.

I hope this makes some sense!

[valeite]

My 4.3 was less than twelve months old when my discs required skimming (under warranty) to remove rust spots.

Never had this on any of my other cars over 45 years.

[anchorman]

My 4.3 was less than twelve months old when my discs required skimming (under warranty) to remove rust spots.

Never had this on any of my other cars over 45 years.

Hello stranger!!!

If you go directly by the book the the discs should be free of scoring and deposits but if your car has done any more than a thousand miles since it was done or sonce it was new then you will find it is doing it again. This is a perfectly normal process because the discs actually contact the pads during cornering. As you turn the vehicle the slight amount of play in the bearings allows "off brake" contact, particularly at the outer edge of the disc. This area also has the highest rotational speed for braking contact so in reality the disc wears thinnest at the outer edge.

The point is that once this lip has appeared then it doesn't tend to go much worse for a large number of miles and is of no consequence. However, the dealers can legitimately do a bit of warranty work. Skimming the discs should never be done without renewing the pads or machining them flat (the latter cost as much as renewing as it needs a special fixture.

Kingo tells me they have a device for skimming the discs on the car which is the best kind. Some garages with cheaper equipment will skim them off the car then refitting them introduces a risk of them not running true (installed run-out).

The spotting (not always rust) is again normal especially with lower mileage cars. If you leave a cast iron disc for an hour in the damp it will go rusty. When you use the brakes it will get wiped off but the disc will be permanently discoloured (usually black stains). Only cars that do higher mileages or work the brakes hard have mostly shiney discs.

[Parts-King]

If you PM the vehicle chassis number to me Macmolly, I will price up the genuine ones for you, delivered to your door at discounted rates ;)

Kingo

[valeite]

My 4.3 was less than twelve months old when my discs required skimming (under warranty) to remove rust spots.

Never had this on any of my other cars over 45 years.

Hello stranger!!!

If you go directly by the book the the discs should be free of scoring and deposits but if your car has done any more than a thousand miles since it was done or sonce it was new then you will find it is doing it again. This is a perfectly normal process because the discs actually contact the pads during cornering. As you turn the vehicle the slight amount of play in the bearings allows "off brake" contact, particularly at the outer edge of the disc. This area also has the highest rotational speed for braking contact so in reality the disc wears thinnest at the outer edge.

The point is that once this lip has appeared then it doesn't tend to go much worse for a large number of miles and is of no consequence. However, the dealers can legitimately do a bit of warranty work. Skimming the discs should never be done without renewing the pads or machining them flat (the latter cost as much as renewing as it needs a special fixture.

Kingo tells me they have a device for skimming the discs on the car which is the best kind. Some garages with cheaper equipment will skim them off the car then refitting them introduces a risk of them not running true (installed run-out).

The spotting (not always rust) is again normal especially with lower mileage cars. If you leave a cast iron disc for an hour in the damp it will go rusty. When you use the brakes it will get wiped off but the disc will be permanently discoloured (usually black stains). Only cars that do higher mileages or work the brakes hard have mostly shiney discs.

Not been around much lately with extended holidays etc. the advantage of being retired don't you know

Yes the Pads were replaced and the discs skimmed on the car. The rust most probably was from leaving the car standing for about 3 weeks in France.

[bothwell_buyer]

Not been around much lately with extended holidays etc. the advantage of being retired don't you know

Yes the Pads were replaced and the discs skimmed on the car. The rust most probably was from leaving the car standing for about 3 weeks in France.

Must ask - why did you leave the car standing for 3 weeks in france? Have you no shame!! Thing would have been eaten by frogs.

[valeite]

Not been around much lately with extended holidays etc. the advantage of being retired don't you know

Yes the Pads were replaced and the discs skimmed on the car. The rust most probably was from leaving the car standing for about 3 weeks in France.

Must ask - why did you leave the car standing for 3 weeks in france? Have you no shame!! Thing would have been eaten by frogs.

Had my bike with me and a string of onions :)